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Barrels, and threads, and muzzle breaks! Oh my!

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Hi All,

I was recently referred to Remsport to get the a compensator affixed to the muzzle of my target-crowned S&W M&P 15. Since the gentleman at Remsport will be out for the next 13 weeks, I'll be needing the services of another gunsmith. I live in the immediate Boston area; does anybody have any recommendations that don't involve two hours of driving to get this accomplished?

Thanks very much in advance!

- Phil -
 
I am not sure where Zero Hour Arms is in relation to your location but I believe they do this.
 
sounds like OP needs both barrel threaded and muzzle pinned and welded

May I ask why you want to thread a barrel that already has a target crown, and unless coming up short on 16" the need(i know if it is want thing) a brake.
 
First, thanks much to all for the responses! Yes, I do in fact need the barrel threaded, as well as the break muzzle pinned and welded.

mac1911: I bought a plain-jane barrel (I believe that is what is called "target crown") and would like a compensator installed. The length of the rifle is no issue at all. Someone else recommended I procure a new barrel, have the brake put on it, then install the new break/barrel and sell the old barrel. Seems like a lot of work.

Anything else you might add?
 
I would leave the barrel as is personally, especially if it has a nice target crown. It's not like the 5.56 round needs a comp, unless you just want the looks.
 
i'd also vote for another barrel that's already threaded. then you can sell your target crown one or keep. just seems easier.
i can see how threading might be costing a lot more than you bargained for. area where threads go would need to be turned down on lathe which means he would need to take rifle apart. charge you additional hour or two for that work. even if his shop time is just $50/hour you are looking at very least $100 bucks for a job, possibly more. that just under a cost of a new barrel.
just my two cents
 
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First, thanks much to all for the responses! Yes, I do in fact need the barrel threaded, as well as the break muzzle pinned and welded.

mac1911: I bought a plain-jane barrel (I believe that is what is called "target crown") and would like a compensator installed. The length of the rifle is no issue at all. Someone else recommended I procure a new barrel, have the brake put on it, then install the new break/barrel and sell the old barrel. Seems like a lot of work.

Anything else you might add?
depending on the barrel you have you might even come out making money if you sell the barrel. The barrel has to be removed anyhows to cut the threads(at least i would think so to be done nice) plus the front sight needs to be removed. You could buy a barrel with possibly the brake you want already installed?
I didnt give brakes/compensator much thought until I shot a AR with out one. So much less obnoxious noise wise. Some people just want, I know when I want it dont matter much what common sense or rational thinking says.....but sometimes it vpays to at least consider the simple solution. Barrel set up the way you like it. remove barrel bolt slip off old, slip on new tighten, zero forget.
 
if you are interested, you can crown your own barrel with am appropraitely sized carriage bolt and some lapping compound.
 
Thanks again for all the great responses. Based on some of the feedback here, I think I should look in the cost effectiveness of a new barrel prior to committing to keeping my current barrel.

Anybody have any recommendations for companies/models/websites that they've had good experiences or heard good reviews about?

I appreciate all the help!
 
Stay away from Rustblue in Natick. This guy charged me $180 to convert an A.R. upper to mass compliant -- swap a flash hider for a compensator (that I provided) and shave off a bayonet lug. When I questioned why he was three times as much as other gunsmiths in the area he said the higher cost was due to the silver solder method (high temp) and the re-bluing process. Reluctantly, I agreed to proceed with the work.

Just an FYI...AR barrels are NOT blued (they are parkarized) and the process of re-bluing one looks about as good as applying a Sharpie to it. Needless to say...I'm pretty upset with the results. I'm not one of those guys that needs everything meticulous on my guns; however, the idea of paying $180 for a procedure that will most likely hurt any potential re-sale value burns me a bit.

My brother had a similar procedure done to one of his uppers (from a gunsmith in N. Attleboro), paid only $60, and his looks 100 times better than mine.
 
if you are interested, you can crown your own barrel with am appropraitely sized carriage bolt and some lapping compound.
This method is good for dressing up a crown. I would not try to "cut" a crown this way. I have used the 11' hand crown tool offered from midway with verry good results on some crappy crowns
The bolt or screw method does work for dressing up s crown. I use this method on almost all my new to me pellet guns. Don't bother messing with a crown unless accuracy is poor or it is actually damaged. Use only brass screws.
YouTube
 
Stay away from Rustblue in Natick. This guy charged me $180 to convert an A.R. upper to mass compliant -- swap a flash hider for a compensator (that I provided) and shave off a bayonet lug. When I questioned why he was three times as much as other gunsmiths in the area he said the higher cost was due to the silver solder method (high temp) and the re-bluing process. Reluctantly, I agreed to proceed with the work.

Just an FYI...AR barrels are NOT blued (they are parkarized) and the process of re-bluing one looks about as good as applying a Sharpie to it. Needless to say...I'm pretty upset with the results. I'm not one of those guys that needs everything meticulous on my guns; however, the idea of paying $180 for a procedure that will most likely hurt any potential re-sale value burns me a bit.

My brother had a similar procedure done to one of his uppers (from a gunsmith in N. Attleboro), paid only $60, and his looks 100 times better than mine.
I am surprised to hear this. I have seen several of his restoration jobs of fellow club members guns. I do think 180.00 might be a bit steep. Like any business they set their prices. You agreed to the price BUT when you saw the finished product and it was not to your expectations and looked like a 60$ job that's when you need to confront the Smith. If your friends 60$ job looks better than the 180 job I would bring in your friends upper and compare it side by side with his.....but that's me.
I have left many gunsmiths with a bad taste in my mouth.
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1375480423.123047.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1375480436.074441.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1375480451.671231.jpg

Some of the RustBlue 'handy' work on my rifle...this was not a cheap barrel or comp. don't think these photos will make his website. I've showed at least 10 people and everyone agrees this work is unacceptable. Think ill need to stop by his shop and request a refund.

I'm I out of line to request a new barrel and comp as well?
Thanks,
J
 
View attachment 74968View attachment 74969View attachment 74970

Some of the RustBlue 'handy' work on my rifle...this was not a cheap barrel or comp. don't think these photos will make his website. I've showed at least 10 people and everyone agrees this work is unacceptable. Think ill need to stop by his shop and request a refund.

I'm I out of line to request a new barrel and comp as well?
Thanks,
J

Whoever threaded that is a crappy machinist. The threads are so off center you can see it.
 
It's spelled "brake" guys. Don't weld on rifle barrels if you can help it. Doing so can hurt your accuracy, quite badly. Welding can introduce hard (weakened) spots in barrels. Why risk it?
 
It's spelled "brake" guys. Don't weld on rifle barrels if you can help it. Doing so can hurt your accuracy, quite badly. Welding can introduce hard (weakened) spots in barrels. Why risk it?

If you don't live in a nanny state, you don't need to worry about that crap. Are people both pinning and welding the brakes onto barrels due to the law, or wanting to be sure they don't get jammed up on a technicality?

I'm just glad I don't need to deal with the MA stupidity anymore. I do feel a bit sorry for all those stuck in nanny states that have to pervert their rifles like that.
 
I don't know what type of work they do all I know is that I had heard they did this since his choice of Remsport is not available at this time.
After your comment here you should have listed places where he could do better.

Just my $0.02, but you can do much better than ZHA for this sort of work.

- - - Updated - - -

Last I knew ZHA had a good rep. I guess things have changed.

yeah if they aren't in the bad mood.

David Santori. Last time i was on the market for it i was quoted $50 for break job
 
Whoever threaded that is a crappy machinist. The threads are so off center you can see it.

I would agree that looks like shit for 180.00....almost as if he didn't remove the barrel to cut the threads( at least that's how I see it being done correctly) . I cant see in the pic that is off center. The flat on the brake or washer makes it look off center.

Not nice work for 180.00. Now combat rifle military spec 50.00 $ job I guess that might be acceptable.
I cant see doing any barrel threading work with out at least AR-15 Barrel Crown & Threading on the Lathe - YouTube I think it would have to be concentric to the bore for best results.

I assume most "smiths " might use these if only charging 50$. I would most likely buy these tools and do it myself if so. AK47 Rifle - How to thread a barrel 1/2 - YouTube
 
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I would agree that looks like shit for 180.00....almost as if he didn't remove the barrel to cut the threads( at least that's how I see it being done correctly) . I cant see in the pic that is off center. The flat on the brake or washer makes it look off center.

Not nice work for 180.00. Now combat rifle military spec 50.00 $ job I guess that might be acceptable.
I cant see doing any barrel threading work with out at least AR-15 Barrel Crown & Threading on the Lathe - YouTube I think it would have to be concentric to the bore for best results.

I assume most "smiths " might use these if only charging 50$. I would most likely buy these tools and do it myself if so. AK47 Rifle - How to thread a barrel 1/2 - YouTube


First threading should be done on a lathe indicated off the BORE. No smith woudl use the die like that it is impossible to keep it square and also impossible to make sure it is centered off the bore. Now you can use a die on a lathe but single point will always give the best end result.
 
The barrel is a Daniel defense that was pre-threaded with an a2 flash hider attached originally. The $180 only included the following services provided by rustblue in natick:

1) shave off the lug....which I could have done a better job with a dremmel.
2) swap the a2 flash for a griffin comp (that I purchased separately) and permanently attach for Mass compliance.
3) "re-blue" the barrel - looks like crap.

If you're ever in the MFS retail store (holliston) take a look at their Mass converted uppers---they look mint and as if the came straight from the factory that way. Those conversions were done by "1776 gunsmithing " in Walpole and it is clearly evident that these guys take some serious pride in their profession --- I REALLY wish I went with these guys instead of Rustblue.



Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2
 
I've been fighting for about a week with a factory-attached flash hider. After nearly giving up, I found a set of "low profile Check Nut Wrenches" on Amazon. With the addition of a couple of cheater bars, these did the trick. After finally getting it off, I believe I found the problem -- stopped applying heat too soon, didn't burn off all the loctite.

If you don't live in a nanny state, you don't need to worry about that crap.
The other reason to worry would be if you're cutting the barrel down to 14.5" and don't want to be stuck with a pistol lower.
 
We need a hack gunsmithing pictures thread.
 
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