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Archery

MichaelJR

MichaelJR

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So, I was a decent archer when I was a kid. Had a little compound bow, nothing serious, but I was a little beast with that thing. Needless to say, guns took the front runner position the minute I got my hands on one, and I never upgraded my bow equipment as I got older.

I'm quite a bit older, haven't shot a bow since I was a boy, but I was considering maybe picking up a longbow or a re-curve. Bit of a purist of late, and if I'm going to try bows again, I'm thinking that I'd like to keep it simple and traditional and steering clear of the modern compound bows I see.

Problem is, I don't know a damn thing about it. Bolts, Materials, string strength, brands of gear, nada. I'm clueless.

Help a brother out guys.
 
Yeah I would much rather have a recurve bow rather than the compound bow. I haven't gotten into them and don't know much either. I'll ask my friend who goes bow hunting, however he uses a compound bow. I'm sure he knows a lot more than me and I'll PM you if I hear anything.

Maybe just buy that crossbow upper for the AR [wink].


Sent from my carbon covered iPhone
 
Go to a real archery shop (or Kittery) and get the advice of a pro. Any good shop will let you shoot before you buy.

When I was in PA I had spare time and took the plunge at a big archery shop there. The guy spent time helping me figure out what I wanted, let me shoot a few bows and steered me towards a bow that is a great match for what I want. I got a compound bow and a mechanical release. I love it because I have a front sight, rear sight and a trigger! I was hitting paper at 20 yards right away.
 
Try Tepee Archery in Acton. They deal with both. They're great people to work with and are about as knowledge as you can get. Brian (?) the tech competes with both styles and hunts too. They have a number of compound bows on display (for hunting) and have the recurves towards the back. They run a Junior Olympic Archery Development program there as well, so they're well versed on it all.

Aloha
 
Not sure where your Evil Fortress of the Dark Lord Kramdar with a shark infested moat and other cool stuff is located, but go to a pro shop and have them set you up. You'll be able to try different bows with different draw weights and lengths. You'll find one you can draw, and hold to your proper anchor point.
The rest is practice...
 
alohadoug said:
Try Tepee Archery in Acton. They deal with both. They're great people to work with and are about as knowledge as you can get. Brian (?) the tech competes with both styles and hunts too. They have a number of compound bows on display (for hunting) and have the recurves towards the back. They run a Junior Olympic Archery Development program there as well, so they're well versed on it all.

Aloha
Click to expand...

I got a compound bow from these guys earlier this year. They have an indoor range there, and will let you try out a few different bows before you find the right one. The guy there, Brian I think, also showed me many basic bow-shooting fundamentals which I am sure would have taken me quite a while to realize otherwise - you don't know what you don't know.

Whenever I have been there I have seen a few people shooting with those fancy olympic style recurves will all the ridiculous looking stabilizers - so they definitely know something about recurve bows.

I've been thinking about getting a recurve bow as well, just for fun / target shooting, not for hunting.
 
Last edited:
Keep in mind if you plan to hunt with it the min. legal poundage is 40. As far as Long Bow/Recurve/Takedown etc. it's personal preference. What ever you like the look and feel of...
 
Raising this thread from the dead... 🧟‍♂️

I just ordered a PSE Nighthawk Recurve bow and some gear for it. Looking for something to play with in the yard.

1634599013266.png

Shatterproof Alaskan Beaver silencers,
SAS stringer

1634599054508.png 1634599173536.png

Bone Collector BC-300 field point target.
6-pack Feather-fletched Easton XX75 JAZZ. (ALUM) 30-inch 1916 w/ 126 grain field points

​

1634599274759.png 1634599366320.png

Bear Weather Rest,
SAS forearm guard and a fingers tab


1634599655564.png 1634599712982.png
 
Ron Jablonski said:
Never tried one, when I shoot my recurve I just use the tip of my draw hand index finger and kind of hook the corner of my mouth as an indexing point. What ever you decide to do just make sure you do it the same way every time. Consistency is king.
Click to expand...
I've had a kisser button on my PSE compound bow for years and it is second nature. This is my first recurve bow. After a little research I found that this inexpensive add-on that works in a similar way may improve consistency. Short money...
 
Lol. "Clean up?" That looks plenty clean enough to "let-fly" in to me.

Maybe move the tee-ball stand and pump sprayer. Construction-grade trashbag box is Good to go...
[smile]

1634615743436.png
 
Man. These modern set ups look complicated... 🤔❤️[rofl]

 
enbloc said:
I've had a kisser button on my PSE compound bow for years and it is second nature. This is my first recurve bow. After a little research I found that this inexpensive add-on that works in a similar way may improve consistency. Short money...
Click to expand...
Ive shot a recurve for years with the middle finger touching the same tooth every time.
 
enbloc said:
Man. These modern set ups look complicated... 🤔❤️[rofl]

Click to expand...


For hunting you don't need all the complicated stuff. Regular Wisker Bisquit rest is simple and plenty accurate. I don't shoot a stabilizer, I shoot two pins, top one is good for 0-30, bottom one is 40 which is my max yardage.

When I hunted urban CT, I just shot one pin, most of my shots were way under 30 yds......
 
Mark from MA said:
For hunting you don't need all the complicated stuff. Regular Wisker Bisquit rest is simple and plenty accurate. I don't shoot a stabilizer, I shoot two pins, top one is good for 0-30, bottom one is 40 which is my max yardage.

When I hunted urban CT, I just shot one pin, most of my shots were way under 30 yds......
Click to expand...
This year and next Spring/Summer, I will just be learning how to accurately operate it. Maybe a Fall 2022 deer hunt if everything goes well. Thanks for your input.
~Enbloc
 
I would recommend the compound of you intend to hunt with it. Especially if archery is going to be newish for you at this point.

Trad equipment is fine, but your range is limited, there are no sights and it's hard to be pinpoint accurate... It takes a ton of practice.... I've seen plenty at my local club who hade done it for decades and still can't hit a car sized object out past 20.
 
Naw. I have a PSE compound bow for hunting. This was for "play" only... Unless I change my mind. That's why I ordered a 45-pounder.

UPDATE: I just received my PSE bow via the U.S. MAIL.

Box was open & empty. I shit you not. They delivered an EMPTY cardboard box... [thumbsup] [rofl]
 
ThePreBanMan said:
I would recommend the compound of you intend to hunt with it. Especially if archery is going to be newish for you at this point.

Trad equipment is fine, but your range is limited, there are no sights and it's hard to be pinpoint accurate... It takes a ton of practice.... I've seen plenty at my local club who hade done it for decades and still can't hit a car sized object out past 20.
Click to expand...
Ive taken many deer with recurves. Its all i hunted with when I started archery in the mid 80's.... You need to practice alot, even then limit is like half of what a compound is. I hunted with them because at the time compounds were still in development, weren't exactly the most reliable things, and went out of tune alot, and were going thru many changes (remember overdraws!!?)

That all changed when Mathews and Bowtech came on the scene. Bows, rests, and sights became solid and reliable for the most part unless you buy some radical speedbow.

Now....my 4 year old Bowtech has never been retuned from when I bought it and it still shoots great at 40 yards with a simple sight, Whisker Bis rest, and no stabilizer or any crap.
 

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