AR15 Build Parts List - First Rifle

[SubieGuy4]

So this will be my first rifle. I've already done a ton a research and know for sure that I want to build rather than buy. If I bought one I'd end up wanting to upgrade every single part before long and wouldn't be happy until it was all exactly what I want. Rather than do that I'll just do it from scratch. It probably took me 40 hours of research to compile this list, but to my thinking this is the complete parts list for what I plan to build. I already have the stripped lower and now I'm planning to buy the parts a few at a time until I can put it together. The accessories and upgrades table in this PDF can be ignored, but I'm interested to hear anyone weigh in on my parts and tools lists. Anything I can improve? Anything to look out for with what I've selected?

AR-15 Build List

 

[CoastieRon]

Save some money on the BCG. There's a brand new Windham Weaponry complete BCG in the sale section for 50% less than the one you listed. I also have a YHM front hand guard assembly for sale that would knock your costs down.

Pretty expensive build. But if those are the things you want, roll with it. I'll lend you my upper vice block, vice and wrench to cut out that expense as well. I'm in Nashua.

Skip the gunsmith tools. If you're buying them to put roll pins in, a pair of vice grips with tape around the haws will work just as good as roll pin punches.

Edited to add, if you're going to get an after market trigger, find a lower parts kit that doesn't come with a trigger assembly. It will cost less.....

 

[oilspill]

Agree with above, skip the WMD bcg - even a BCM at $189 will save you some money. Also while I think the DD barrel is a great choice, I'd go with one with the FSB installed:

AR-15/M16 HAMMER FORGED BARRELS | Brownells

Will save you $10 vs the cost of barrel/gas block/gas tube and you can shave down the FSB to fit under the NSR rail(are you going with the 13.5?) - it'll give you a rock solid gas block that you won't have to worry about aligning(unlike the clamp on). Order the extra gas tube roll pins, you can always use those.

If you're getting the "Slide Fire Buffer Tube End Plate w/ Sling Point" you can eliminate the "DPMS Buffer Tube End Plate".

Here's a deal on a LPK with 5 Pmags and an ammo can for $90(vs lpk @ $77 + 4 pmags @ $57 plus you get 1 extra mag/ammo can):
"Cache Can" AR-15 Lower Parts Kit, 5 PMAGs w/ .50 cal Ammo Can - Lower Parts Kits - Lower Parts - AR-15

Here's an LPK with MIAD grip for $85(vs lpk @ $77 + MIAD @ $34):
Palmetto State Armory MIAD LPK - Lower Parts Kits - Lower Parts - AR-15

You might be able to find a stock kit for less than the individual parts.

Looks like a great build.

 

[Golddiggie]

Look at American Weapon Systems for a solid LPK at far better pricing. Also look up the 50 cent trigger job to save you even more. With JP Enterprise (reduced weight, from Brownells) springs, and a slight hammer mod, you can get a sick trigger without spending a lot. I would also skip the MagPul grip and go with a Hogue grip ($14.25 on Amazon). If you want the CTR, then get it with the buffer tube, spring and buffer already. You'll get the same thing and [most likely] save at least a few dollars.

You can also save money by getting blem, or demo, uppers. BCM often has them (with the forward assist and dust cover assemblies) for just under $100. Or you can get them for $60 (or $50 if you watch the group buys) and then get the parts for $25 (from Umlaut).

I would also look at the BCM mod3 charging handle before getting it. I have the mod4 and really like it.

If you're looking to spend over a grand on the upper, why not just go with a gas piston system instead of GI system?

 

[exo]

Agree with above, skip the WMD bcg - even a BCM at $189 will save you some money.

Can't go wrong with a BCM BCG.

 

[SubieGuy4]

Can't go wrong with a BCM BCG.

I'm 100% sold on Nickel Boron coated BCGs like Fail Zero and WMD. Everyone says to go with something more standard and save the money. I have no qualms about spending a little extra here and there to get exactly what I want. I really like the idea of running with just a tiny bit of oil in the gun. I despise oil, the mess it makes, and the crud it collects. I understand ARs like to run wet and anything that will allow me to not do that is worth paying a premium. That said, I did plan on getting a BCM BCG as a backup for the parts bag. I like to have spares of critical components for my guns.

Look at American Weapon Systems for a solid LPK at far better pricing.

You can also save money by getting blem, or demo, uppers. BCM often has them (with the forward assist and dust cover assemblies) for just under $100.

I would also look at the BCM mod3 charging handle before getting it. I have the mod4 and really like it.

If you're looking to spend over a grand on the upper, why not just go with a gas piston system instead of GI system?

Elise at AWS actually has the above list and is working up a list of which things she can do the same or better on. They treat me great there.

I'm the kind of guy that buys cars new so I can keep them just right from the outset and know that any scuffs or dings are my doing and I know how they got there. I don't mind a scuffed up gun, but I want to start fresh.

I like the Mod 4 because it's lower profile, while still being more than the GI charging handle.

Good question on the piston vs DI. I sort of want to go traditional for my first build and look into piston later. I'm somewhat a fan of the thinking that if a thing was designed to be a certain way it should just be left that way. And with the Nickel Boron BCG I'm less worried about the fouling from DI.

I'll lend you my upper vice block, vice and wrench to cut out that expense as well. I'm in Nashua.

Skip the gunsmith tools. If you're buying them to put roll pins in, a pair of vice grips with tape around the haws will work just as good as roll pin punches.

Edited to add, if you're going to get an after market trigger, find a lower parts kit that doesn't come with a trigger assembly. It will cost less.....

I appreciate the offer. It's like if you do your own oil changes. You can borrow the catch pan, socket set, and filter grip every 3-5 months or you can just buy it all once and have your own gear for in future. I plan to buy the tools so I can work in it any time I want/need to. Any time I have a project to do I like to buy the tools for it so every time I have a more complete set of tools to choose from next time.

Good tip on the LPK without trigger. I'll ask American Weapon Systems if they have anything.

 

[oilspill]

Look at American Weapon Systems for a solid LPK at far better pricing. Also look up the 50 cent trigger job to save you even more. With JP Enterprise (reduced weight, from Brownells) springs, and a slight hammer mod, you can get a sick trigger without spending a lot. I would also skip the MagPul grip and go with a Hogue grip ($14.25 on Amazon). If you want the CTR, then get it with the buffer tube, spring and buffer already. You'll get the same thing and [most likely] save at least a few dollars.

You can also save money by getting blem, or demo, uppers. BCM often has them (with the forward assist and dust cover assemblies) for just under $100. Or you can get them for $60 (or $50 if you watch the group buys) and then get the parts for $25 (from Umlaut).

I would also look at the BCM mod3 charging handle before getting it. I have the mod4 and really like it.

If you're looking to spend over a grand on the upper, why not just go with a gas piston system instead of GI system?

I've tried the JP reduced power springs they were ok for a while but ended up causing light primer strikes. Agreed on the BCM blem uppers - $99 and in stock currently(you have to assemble the parts but they are included). Piston - dear god why?

I'm 100% sold on Nickel Boron coated BCGs like Fail Zero and WMD. Everyone says to go with something more standard and save the money. I have no qualms about spending a little extra here and there to get exactly what I want. I really like the idea of running with just a tiny bit of oil in the gun. I despise oil, the mess it makes, and the crud it collects. I understand ARs like to run wet and anything that will allow me to not do that is worth paying a premium. That said, I did plan on getting a BCM BCG as a backup for the parts bag. I like to have spares of critical components for my guns.

You'll still need to lube the WMD:



Saw this same issue with a gun at my LGS, want to say with a Young BCG.

 

[SubieGuy4]

You'll still need to lube the WMD:

Right. Light lube like I said. A lot of reviews say you can run them dry. I'm sure that's not true/a good idea. From all my research you can definitely run them with less than a standard BCG, and it makes perfect sense that you could if the coating material really has significantly lower friction.

Also I've watched people clean a standard BCG and a NiB BCG side by side and it's clearly quicker to clean off the NiB BCG. That alone would be worth $100 to me.

 

[Golddiggie]

I've tried the JP reduced power springs they were ok for a while but ended up causing light primer strikes. Agreed on the BCM blem uppers - $99 and in stock currently(you have to assemble the parts but they are included). Piston - dear god why?

Did you alter the hammer, or leave it stock? I might try mixing the springs up, using the one that came with the LPK/rifle on the hammer, and the lighter ones on the trigger.

As for going with the piston, if you're going to dump over a grand into an upper, why not?? Won't cost all that much more. Might even save a bit since there's other items he won't need, or can get better priced items that will work with the piston system.

I plan on using a gas piston system for the next rifle upper I build. One of the benefits will be a cleaner gun.

BTW, if you use GOOD lube, you don't need nearly as much of it.

 

[oilspill]

Right. Light lube like I said. A lot of reviews say you can run them dry. I'm sure that's not true/a good idea. From all my research you can definitely run them with less than a standard BCG, and it makes perfect sense that you could if the coating material really has significantly lower friction.

Also I've watched people clean a standard BCG and a NiB BCG side by side and it's clearly quicker to clean off the NiB BCG. That alone would be worth $100 to me.

Right on, you want what you want. I think where I might differ is I don't worry about cleaning the bcg as much as most, I don't think it needs it.

Did you alter the hammer, or leave it stock? I might try mixing the springs up, using the one that came with the LPK/rifle on the hammer, and the lighter ones on the trigger.

As for going with the piston, if you're going to dump over a grand into an upper, why not?? Won't cost all that much more. Might even save a bit since there's other items he won't need, or can get better priced items that will work with the piston system.

I plan on using a gas piston system for the next rifle upper I build. One of the benefits will be a cleaner gun.

BTW, if you use GOOD lube, you don't need nearly as much of it.

I ran a stock hammer, I thought the modded hammer was only if you wanted to get it down to 3.5 lbs. I'll have to dig up the package and read the instructions.

Re: piston, I guess I would turn it around and ask why? What "benefit" are you getting for the extra money? A cleaner gun is not a benefit to me, I think people tend to overthink that aspect of the AR platform. You ever watch that DVD BCM gives out, the Pat Rogers carbine one? The rifle he uses has never been cleaned. Ever. Multiple thousands of rounds - the bcg is covered in a thick black goo, looks like what would come out of Dianne Feinstein if she bled. He claims to have never had a single problem. The BCM 'Filthy 14' gun is north of 30K rounds I think. (might be the same gun btw, I don't know)

 

[Golddiggie]

I was told that the lighter hammer (cut the beak off) is for harder primer cups, such as on some 5.56 NATO ammo. The lighter hammer means the springs will move it faster, giving more energy to the primer to get the harder ones to fire. I've not tried to run any 5.56 NATO ammo through my AR yet (with the JP springs) with the original hammer still. I might get a spare hammer to alter so I can just swap it out as needed/wanted.

BTW, BCM has their blem/demo uppers in stock...

I would like to fire an pair of AR's (or pair of uppers) that the only difference was the gas system.

 

[SubieGuy4]

I would like to fire an pair of AR's (or pair of uppers) that the only difference was the gas system.

I don't have near enough time behind ARs (or rifles period) but my impression from limited reading on piston ARs is that they tend to have a sharper recoil impulse in much the same way that people prefer the recoil in mid-length gas system ARs to carbine-length.

 

[Dr. CCW]

Save some money on the BCG. There's a brand new Windham Weaponry complete BCG in the sale section for 50% less than the one you listed.

or this Shadow Ops Weaponry. Nickel Boron Coated Bolt Carrier Group

 

[oilspill]

FYI I was at my LGS yesterday and he has a couple WMD NiBo bcg's on the shelf for $219 - email Dan at The Outdoor Shop if you're interested:

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