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AR 15 Trigger Job

Yup, did it on all 3 I built. Its an improvement and IMO worth doing and the downside is you are only out a few springs if you want to go back. It won't be like a custom nice trigger but way better than stock LPK trigger. I also did the "50 Cent trigger job" but for the life of me I can't find where that is posted anymore as the original link is down. The 50 cent job takes up slack and the one you mentions lightens the pull.

ETA, other have said just to buy a set of lighter springs but I forget the name of the place that sells them. I am sure someone will post a link.
 
Along with the JP springs do the 50 cent trigger job too. That will
get rid of almost all the take up on the trigger.

Malodave
 
Brownells has the JP springs for $12 a set. If you want to shoot military ammo with those springs you might need to lighten up the hammer (grind the beak off).

You can also lap the FCG contact points and then apply some great lube too. I've used diamond paste to lap the contact points.
 
I'd do the polish thing on a 10/22 and maybe polish to smooth some surfaces on an AR as well, but I don't think I'd start messing around with springs, especially when the instructions come with warnings about using certain kinds of ammunition. If you are THAT into a good trigger for competition or hunting, just buy one.
 
Depending on the AR you bought changing the springs could take a 10#+ trigger down to under 5#. IMO/IME it's well worth doing. Especially since you can set aside the original springs for later use. I've thought about mixing the springs, but have not tried it. I'm talking about the lighter springs for the trigger and disconnect but original for the hammer. Not sure if that is safe to do, which is why I've not done it.

BTW, lightening the trigger is so that it moves fast enough to set off the harder military grade primers. Its another easy to replace item IMO/IME. If you're scared of doing that, then just shelter in place. [laugh]
 
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