Yo yote hunters... got skins?

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Hey guys, I'd like to learn how to process pelts, anyone have any raw pelts that they have no need of?

Doesn't have to be 'yote, I just figured they would be easiest to get.
 
hm, yes, not sure about that. Not sure how to tell when one is too old to muck with, and to date, I've not seen much roadkill since moving here.

I still need to read through the hunting regs to see if I can use a .22 for any small game.
 
What do you mean by process the fur. Are you thinking about trying to tan it or just dry it?

Also I think the suggestion of using road kill was good advice. The chance of finding someone who is willing kill, skin, and handover a pelt is pretty slim.

Also you would need to have at least a trapping license to be in possession of a pelt which is not tagged. Some animals don't need to be tagged, like coons.
Just don't go around picking fishers or yotes out of season.
 
Well, considering that you can hunt yote, I don't see them requiring a trapping license to be in posession of any part of them.

True, the chances are slim, but worth asking, I'd prefer to source them from a local, nes based hunter, if possible, otherwise I'll query some brokers.

I'm looking to learn to tan.
 
Well, considering that you can hunt yote, I don't see them requiring a trapping license to be in posession of any part of them.

Yes correct, I said at least a trapping license. You correct though you could have a hunting license as well.

Are you trying to get a raw fur or one that is dryed. If you are trying to get a hand into processing furs I would suggest starting with a coon. The reason for this is because you could quite most likely trap one fairly easy. Case skin the coon and dry it on a streching board. After the fur is dried I would end your processing there. Tanning is a huge process that involves a lot of chemicals and is not something even the most die hard trappers get involved in. Sending it to a Tannery is the best bet it costs about $20 bucks for them to tan the fur.

I personally never even met a person who tans there own furs. I will start pulling racoons soon as may Problem Animal Control work picks up. If you want to have a coon I would give you one. However you would have to skin and flesh it.
 
Since I don't have a trapping license, let me do a little DD to see if it's kosher for me to posess a raccoon, and I'm in.
 
I see a coon or two a week roadside in my travels, easy to come by most are fresh & not mangled.

Winter pelts are prime so get 'em now. Raccoon is a fatty animal, takes a little extra work processing the hide.

Pulling the tail on an older kill can be tough, go heavy with the salt on the fatty hide. I have seen do-it-yourself tanning chemicals sold at Cabelas.
 
Yeah, I need to be careful about the chemicals, but I'd like to learn how to tan out a fur on hide. For no other reason than I want to do it, and maybe one day make myself some gloves. Not looking to get rich and buy my next 20 year old jeep with the proceeds. I can go hunting for sheds if I want to do that. :D

You're in western ma, that makes sense then. I'm out in Somerville, only time we see coons here is in google image search (or the odd attic.)
 
The tanning chemicals (treatments) are to help soften the skins after you cure then with salt. To remove fur from hides just soak non-salted skins in water for up to a week. To keep fur on, I salt heavy & let sit for 1-2 days then scrape off and redo salt for an other day. Then depending on skin soak in hot salty water for a time. Wash with soapy water to remove fats & grease. This is where your tanning treatments come in, while still wet apply. If not, let dry, expect lots of work sanding & scrapping skin to soften. Have fun! [grin]
 
This is interesting-- I have been looking for a good book on tanning and/or taxidermy, but haven't come across one.

I would like to keep the hide from the deer we get next season and tan it myself.

If we get any coyotes, we don't keep the hide, so we'd give it to you, but you would have to come to the south shore to get it.
 
This is interesting-- I have been looking for a good book on tanning and/or taxidermy, but haven't come across one.

Hope this helps

LINK http://www.manataka.org/page27.html Good info on site

THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO SKINNING AND TANNING: A Complete Guide to Working with Pelts, Fur, and Leather

by Monte Burch

Here is the complete guide to a skill that may be mysterious to some, written by Monte Burch, an authority who practices many of the ancient traditions of tanning and hiding. Starting at the beginning, Burch introduces the hunter to the tools of a tanner, and even gives complete plans for making many of these implements. Instructions are given for making fleshing beams, stretchers for pelts, fleshing knives, and many others. He also covers tanning formulas and materials, both traditional and modern. Soft Cover, 256pp. $34.95
 
I can help you with learning and I happen to have two deer hides I need to find room in a freezer for

Meaning you can have the hides since I would hate to see them rot as the weather is starting to get above freezing

oh and
http://www.braintan.com/
I highly recommend spending the money on the scraper he sells
 
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dog hides

still looking for those skins? I'm in Peabody and have four coyote pelts. fur market for dog hides is weak, #1's going $18-$22 tops. I have 2 #1's, 1 #2 and a #4 to start practicing on if your interested. you can have all four for $40. save me time and gas driving to fur buyer. I can take care of tags next week, have to do it anyway. after they're tagged you'ld be all set. let me know.
 
Make sure you are up to date on the laws re sales/purchasing
PELT TAGGING AND SALE OF PELTS:

(a) all beaver, bobcat, coyote, fisher, fox (red and gray), wild mink, and river otter taken or salvaged must be brought to an official check station and tagged with a locking seal before the pelts can be sold, exchanged, retained by the trapper or hunter, or otherwise disposed of. Seals must remain attached to the pelt until the pelt is dressed or tanned or prepared for mounting by a taxidermist or otherwise disposed of. Seals are not transferable.

(b) no pelts of beaver, bobcat, coyote, fisher, fox, gray wolf, lynx, marten, wild mink, or river otter, regardless of state of origin, may be sold in Massachusetts unless tagged or sealed by the state of origin, or another state which has been authorized to do so.

(c) all beaver, coyote, fisher, fox, mink, and river otter must be presented at the check station no later than 4 working days (Monday-Friday, except legal holidays) after the close of the season for the species being checked.
http://www.mass.gov/dfwele/dfw/regulations/plain_language/hunting_trapping.htm
 
Ya that would be correct. once they are legally tagged there are no restrictions on who they can be sold to. Tags cannot be transfered to someone else for tagging another piece of fur.
 
Hey guys, I'd like to learn how to process pelts, anyone have any raw pelts that they have no need of?

Doesn't have to be 'yote, I just figured they would be easiest to get.

go to rodentpro.com and get a XXXL rabbit (about 10-11lbs). Also get some large guinea pigs. Great to practice on, have nice colors, and they are lab raised, so they are nice and clean. (in case you cut your hand while skinning it).

heres the link: http://rodentpro.com/

I used to buy for my snakes. Shipping is a little expensive, because its overnight and frozen, but you can put a lot of animals in one box.
 
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This thread got me wondering.

Gernerally, what do most hunters do with their deer hides? Keep them themselves? Sell them? Throw them out?
 
Thanks for the rodentpro site.

Hit a speed bump in the process... the better half told me, skinning my own kills and trying to tan, fine. Anything else, no go.

Considering how far I've been pushing her lately, I'm going to have to leave it at that for now.
 
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