What Stain To Use On Stock?

massgun · Jul 10, 2009

I'm refinishing an Italian FAT stock and have removed all finish/ stain. After the really deep dents have been steamed out, I will be using the tried and true BLO finish. The stock is birch, I think, and is very light. I'm not sure just BLO will give as dark a finish as I want, so, if I have to stain it, can I use regular stains like Min-Wax or is there a better stain to use on gunstocks?

Can I mix some stain with the BLO and apply to my desired look or should it be separate operations? If anyone knows how dark just the BLO might turn a birch stock and has any photos, please post them! I appreciate any advice you guys can give me.

boxerjake77 · Jul 10, 2009

if you want a sweet ass finish, use a alcohol dye first, then a oil base stain. this method will help you gei it darker,and also you will acheive a SWEET aerodescent look to your stock !!! [wink]

JonJ · Jul 10, 2009

iridescent?
Something you wouldn't see on a war rifle.

Pilgrim · Jul 10, 2009

Try using straight undiluted blo in the barrel cutout. Put on several coats. I think you'll be surprised how dark it really gets.

kengog · Jul 11, 2009

I've used Dixie Gun Works - Dixie Antique Stain with great results. Not sure if that is the look you're after.

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=3913

vellnueve · Jul 11, 2009

I use Miniwax stains with a few layers of BLO on top.

LoginName · Jul 11, 2009

Birch can be tricky when staining as it has a tendency to come out blotchy.

You might want to apply a pre-stain or sealer to it first then rub it down with some 0000 steel wool.

I didn't stain mine and just opted for a straight finish.

I have my own opinion about using BLO... sure it gives the stock an original type finish, but it takes forever to dry/cure properly. Out of curiosity (and a bit of impatience), I used Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil and was more than satisfied with the results.

massgun · Jul 12, 2009

That stock looks pretty good to me, I would be happy with that result. Are the darker areas where BLO soaked in more or was there some stain left in the wood from the original finish? When you say it takes forever to dry/cure, are you talking weeks/months or several days between coats? Also, when you apply the BLO, do you use a rag or just your fingers/hand?

Pilgrim · Jul 12, 2009

BLO application:

I generally use it without dilution, as it takes less coats.

Rub BLO in with a soaked rag.

Let it dry for 24 hours

rub it down with 0000 steel wool, wipe with dry cloth

repeat until a good finish is achieved, possibly 6-8 coats

rub down with butchers paste wax

SKS Ray · Jul 12, 2009

massgun said:
That stock looks pretty good to me, I would be happy with that result. Are the darker areas where BLO soaked in more or was there some stain left in the wood from the original finish? When you say it takes forever to dry/cure, are you talking weeks/months or several days between coats? Also, when you apply the BLO, do you use a rag or just your fingers/hand?

Those darker areas are normal on birch stocks. Its the grain of the wood.

sig shooter · Jul 13, 2009

Pilgrim said:
BLO application:

I generally use it without dilution, as it takes less coats.

Rub BLO in with a soaked rag.

Let it dry for 24 hours

rub it down with 0000 steel wool, wipe with dry cloth

repeat until a good finish is achieved, possibly 6-8 coats

rub down with butchers paste wax

+1 I do it this way also, you could try rite dark brown dye right out of the bottle its alcohol based so no problem there. Give it about 3 days to dry before you use any BLO.

LoginName · Jul 13, 2009

massgun said:
That stock looks pretty good to me, I would be happy with that result. Are the darker areas where BLO soaked in more or was there some stain left in the wood from the original finish? When you say it takes forever to dry/cure, are you talking weeks/months or several days between coats? Also, when you apply the BLO, do you use a rag or just your fingers/hand?

This is how it looked as delivered...

In the picture, it is a lot darker, but as you've probably discovered, these things are soaked with 50-60 years of dirt, grime and cosmoline.

Mine had a fair amount of of deep nicks and gouges, but with a little steaming and light sanding I was able to eliminate them to the point that you have to look pretty closely to find even a few.

As Milsurps mentioned, the darker areas are a natural part of the grain. Some call it "tiger striping" or "flame".

The upper handguard on mine is not the one that came with the rifle.
I discovered some small Mom and Pop firearms operation and asked them
if I sent them a pic of my jewel, if they could hand-pick me an upper to match... I was quite pleased with what I got [grin]

.

Curing time for BLO can be a day or two or a week depending on temperature.
Might not be an issue if you plan on applying one or two coats and don't mind the wait.

I avoided that by using the Birchwood Casey TruOil and applied 2-3 coats within 48 hours (and knocking it down with 0000 steel wool).

For maintenance and cleaning, I'll give it a light rub-down/buffing with Formbys paste wax

glocky · Jul 14, 2009

as a finish carpenter i like to bring out the natural grain of whatever species i'm using. to really bring the grain i use mineral spirits to raise the grain and then use fine grit sand paper to sand smooth again. just this simple process can really help this end result

dixidawg · Jul 14, 2009

LoginName said:
Birch can be tricky when staining as it has a tendency to come out blotchy.

......., I used Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil and was more than satisfied with the results.

]

+1. I used Tru oil on an old Marlin .22 bolt action with a birch stock that I refinished over the winter. I decided on Tru Oil with no stain, and I REALLY like how it came out. It was really easy to apply. It is good stuff, and I wouldn't hesitate to use it again.

What Stain To Use On Stock?

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