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Short guns in a tall safe

basscatfrank

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I started moving my guns into the safe I received for Christmas. I love the new safe, the only drawback I see is something I know someone here must have figured out by now. That is what to do with guns that don't quite reach the holes in the shelf that the barrels rest in. I have two ideas. One is to screw together a couple of 2X6's, carpet them, and rest the butts on it. The other idea is to get some foam and glue it to the underside of the shelf which would allow the barrels to reach. What have you done to alleviate this problem?

On a side note, I added lighting to my safe as well. I went to Home Depot and purchased an 18 foot length of LED rope light. It is enough to go from the floor and up the hinge side of the front, along the top side to the back, and then along the other side and down to the floor again on the other side of the safe. Forty bucks for the light and $3 for the switch. Looks pretty good if I do say so myself. Almost forgot, I installed my Goldenrod as well.
 
I have 2 cinderblocks on either end of the safe for weight and I put plywood with old t shirts tacked to them on top. The larger firearms go in the middle and the shorties go on the blocks.
 
If the shelving and walls are wood or MDF, just move a section of the barrel rests down a bit to accommodate your carbine length guns. That's what I did and it worked great in my Stack-On.
 
I just drilled new holes to move the holder down or you could build a shelf on the bottom of one side or simply put a box on the bottom of one side.
 
You can also flip the racks over, it will lower the openings about 2-4 inches depending on the brand. If that doesn't work, get 2-3 pavers that fit snug in the bottom of the safe and use a rubberized spray paint on em, keeps the stocks in place and nothing will get scratched up.
 
My stack on came with nice sticky foam inserts slotted to hold the barrels. You can put them at any height along the sides or back. I put mine too high so i need to find more lol. They do not come off once you stick them.
 
If the shelving and walls are wood or MDF, just move a section of the barrel rests down a bit to accommodate your carbine length guns. That's what I did and it worked great in my Stack-On.

This is what I did as well, since I had a row of barrel rests left over because I configured half of the cabinet for shelves
 
They sell magnetic ones at Dicks- probably ebay as well.

I started moving my guns into the safe I received for Christmas. I love the new safe, the only drawback I see is something I know someone here must have figured out by now. That is what to do with guns that don't quite reach the holes in the shelf that the barrels rest in. I have two ideas. One is to screw together a couple of 2X6's, carpet them, and rest the butts on it. The other idea is to get some foam and glue it to the underside of the shelf which would allow the barrels to reach. What have you done to alleviate this problem?

On a side note, I added lighting to my safe as well. I went to Home Depot and purchased an 18 foot length of LED rope light. It is enough to go from the floor and up the hinge side of the front, along the top side to the back, and then along the other side and down to the floor again on the other side of the safe. Forty bucks for the light and $3 for the switch. Looks pretty good if I do say so myself. Almost forgot, I installed my Goldenrod as well.
 
I started moving my guns into the safe I received for Christmas. I love the new safe, the only drawback I see is something I know someone here must have figured out by now. That is what to do with guns that don't quite reach the holes in the shelf that the barrels rest in. I have two ideas. One is to sci4rew together a couple of 2X6's, carpet them, and rest the butts on it. The other idea is to get some foam and glue it to the underside of the shelf which would allow the barrels to reach. What have you done to alleviate this problem?

On a side note, I added lighting to my safe as well. I went to Home Depot and purchased an 18 foot length of LED rope light. It is enough to go from the floor and up the hinge side of the front, along the top side to the back, and then along the other side and down to the floor again on the other side of the safe. Forty bucks for the light and $3 for the switch. Looks pretty good if I do say so myself. Almost forgot, I installed my Goldenrod as well.

$40 for lights? Use the cool white led Christmas Lights the clear ones with no covering. A few dollars and lights it up very well. My winchester 24, a 12' string goes up the front left side, across the top front and down the right front. I put two sets since they were $1.50 each. They tuck in the seem in the corner and only can be seen if you put your head in the safe. I might add a door activation some day.
 
Chunk of 4x4 raised my rifles just high enough, and is plenty stable. Has held up for years with no mishaps!
 
I have the same issue now that my collection is growing. [smile] I havent done this yet but I have read here of others cutting a piece of PVC piping long enough to reach the rest from the end of the barrel and wide enough to fit over the barrel. Then just attach a PVC "T" to the end of of the pipe to rest in the barrel rest.
 
My safe (cabinet) has foam panels on the walls. Shorter guns rest against the foam behind longer guns. Never seen a small safe that holds the advertised number of guns without some ingenuity.


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I have the same issue now that my collection is growing. [smile] I havent done this yet but I have read here of others cutting a piece of PVC piping long enough to reach the rest from the end of the barrel and wide enough to fit over the barrel. Then just attach a PVC "T" to the end of of the pipe to rest in the barrel rest.

I've done this for my 15-22s and my first ar. Not incredibly fond of it and I'm contemplating a new method to load em into the cabinet.
 
$40 for lights? Use the cool white led Christmas Lights the clear ones with no covering. A few dollars and lights it up very well. My winchester 24, a 12' string goes up the front left side, across the top front and down the right front. I put two sets since they were $1.50 each. They tuck in the seem in the corner and only can be seen if you put your head in the safe. I might add a door activation some day.
If you use the incandescent mini lights (rope or Xmas tree), you can just leave them on all the time and not bother with a goldenrod.
 
LED lights do not heat up anywhere close to the approximately 140 degrees that the Goldenrod does.
Thus my use of the word "incandescent". 12 feet of incandescent rope light produces about the same heat (wattage) as a medium-size goldenrod, with light as a fringe benefit.

Goldenrod claims their product works because it puts a concentrated heat source at the bottom of the safe, so it's not just the total heat introduced, but also the convection. I think the "convection" theory is hooey, the important thing is for the entire inside of the safe to be somewhat warmer than the outside (and above the dew point).
 
Thus my use of the word "incandescent". 12 feet of incandescent rope light produces about the same heat (wattage) as a medium-size goldenrod, with light as a fringe benefit.

Goldenrod claims their product works because it puts a concentrated heat source at the bottom of the safe, so it's not just the total heat introduced, but also the convection. I think the "convection" theory is hooey, the important thing is for the entire inside of the safe to be somewhat warmer than the outside (and above the dew point).

See, you thought I missed you saying "incandescent" and I thought you missed me saying that I used LED's. The trouble with incandescent rope lights is that the light is so dim it's yellow.
 
Hang them upside down in the safe. That way, they will be too short at the bottom. Problem solved. Oh, wait...
 
If you're considering using foam then look into using mini-cell or closed foam used for kayak outfitting. You can buy it in several different shapes and sizes and then cut/shave/sand it into final shape and bond it in with Dap Weldwood contact cement. I've outfitted a few boats and the stuff is pretty easy to work with. You can use hand tools or even a router or power sander/grinder to shape it. Kayakoutfitting.com has decent prices and a little video tutorial. The website looks a little sketchy but I did an order a few months back and it went smoothly.
 
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