Acquired a heavily rusted GEW 98 for short $. Will never be a shooter, but make a nice "wall hanger". Anyone have suggestions on what to do with the rust spots. Steel wool and CLP helps but not enough.
-
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
"Restoring" a rusty barn find GEW 98
- Thread starter TFLeader
- Start date
blasting with some glass bead would take it off without adding any more damage to the rest of the metal
you can also try chemicals like ' loctite navy gelly' or 'krud cuter rust remover' available at home depot. these things however take time though. blasting is much faster.
there must some other stuff too.
you can also try chemicals like ' loctite navy gelly' or 'krud cuter rust remover' available at home depot. these things however take time though. blasting is much faster.
there must some other stuff too.
Last edited:
How bad is it? Any pics. How about electrolysis? Works wonders for barrel bores why not the entire gun. Plenty of you tube info on it.
I have cleaned many crudy rifle bores with electrolysis. I have not had a specimen yet for enrtire gun project.
I have cleaned many crudy rifle bores with electrolysis. I have not had a specimen yet for enrtire gun project.
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2008
- Messages
- 1,473
- Likes
- 128
I would just oil it up for a few days and then take a steel brush on a dremmel to it. You will not make it look like it was never rusted so you might as well just have the rust look better.
And now the photos (sorry)
Metal parts have been soaking in CLP for about a week. Every couple of days I rub for several minutes with 0000 SW.
Interesting in that when I removed the furniture, the metal that was covered by wood was like new.
Note "S/42G" and "K167" stamping at the rear sight. All sight parts are similarly labeled. Although rifle was made in 1916. appears the rear sight was modified (perhaps the rifle was rechambered for a round with different ballistics)?
Metal parts have been soaking in CLP for about a week. Every couple of days I rub for several minutes with 0000 SW.
Interesting in that when I removed the furniture, the metal that was covered by wood was like new.
Note "S/42G" and "K167" stamping at the rear sight. All sight parts are similarly labeled. Although rifle was made in 1916. appears the rear sight was modified (perhaps the rifle was rechambered for a round with different ballistics)?
I dont have any advice different from what you are already doing aside from using a different cleaner like dnepro suggested, but im interested in seeing how this turns out so keep us posted and take pics when you finish
Those rifles were built well and are pretty beefy where it counts. If it looks in decent shape i'd try it with some mild loads. You may end up with a been there done that looking shooter.
Sent from my Ally using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my Ally using Tapatalk 2
Don't be so sure.
This one started out almost as bad as yours and now shoots sub MOA all day long. Here's the info on the project
http://www.gunco.net/forums/f300/mauser-project-condensed-version-68913/
Gidge
NES Member
View attachment 43725
Material needed:
Plastic bucket/container
A battery charger (preferably an older "dumb" one with a real transformer)
Washing soda (Arm and Hammer)
An Iron/steel (NOT Stainless Steel!) for an anode (rebar works great)
Some iron wire to connect to the submerged parts, (small parts I often suspend in the bucket from the wire)
and set it up like this:
I often use a 5 gallon plastic bucket, and fill it near full with water 4-to 4-1/2 gal?)
throw in about a handful of the Washing soda.
Set up some anodes , (you can use wire to connect them together)
Make sure the part does not/will not touch the anodes, and connect the charger leads. turn it on and look for bubbles to start forming on the part.
4-8 hours (or overnight, if really rusted) later check on it. it will likely have the water surface covered with a nasty red scum/foam, you can scrape/lift this off if desired.
As the water evaporates over days/weeks, of use (or non use) just add water you don't need to add the Washing soda it does not evaporate...
Tons of info available on line, just Google "electrolysis rust.
Last comment anything in the "soup" needs to be iron or common steel; no plating, chrome, copper (wire) and definitely not Stainless Steel!
The left over residue is an iron rich soup and is safe enough to add to your garden for iron/alkaline loving plants...
Original source: http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44782&highlight=vises+garage+journal&page=193
Electrolysis is like magic, I've only used it for rusty tools though and not for firearms. Here's the recipe :
Material needed:
Plastic bucket/container
A battery charger (preferably an older "dumb" one with a real transformer)
Washing soda (Arm and Hammer)
An Iron/steel (NOT Stainless Steel!) for an anode (rebar works great)
Some iron wire to connect to the submerged parts, (small parts I often suspend in the bucket from the wire)
and set it up like this:
I often use a 5 gallon plastic bucket, and fill it near full with water 4-to 4-1/2 gal?)
throw in about a handful of the Washing soda.
Set up some anodes , (you can use wire to connect them together)
Make sure the part does not/will not touch the anodes, and connect the charger leads. turn it on and look for bubbles to start forming on the part.
4-8 hours (or overnight, if really rusted) later check on it. it will likely have the water surface covered with a nasty red scum/foam, you can scrape/lift this off if desired.
As the water evaporates over days/weeks, of use (or non use) just add water you don't need to add the Washing soda it does not evaporate...
Tons of info available on line, just Google "electrolysis rust.
Last comment anything in the "soup" needs to be iron or common steel; no plating, chrome, copper (wire) and definitely not Stainless Steel!
The left over residue is an iron rich soup and is safe enough to add to your garden for iron/alkaline loving plants...
Original source: http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44782&highlight=vises+garage+journal&page=193
