Refinishing the ole Mossberg 500

[GunGrey]

I know its just a mossberg and it doesn't really deserve to look prettied up, but the way it looks now it's pretty shitty

So list of things to fix

1. Someone drilled and tapped multiply screw holes for a scope mount, the kicker is they are not on top of the receiver but on the top left side. So i have to fix that
2. There is a large gouge on the right hand side of the rifle a couple inches behind the ejection port.
3. the barrel has seen its share of rust and the bluing is shit
4. the Stock is old and worn. you can clearly see the blacked portions where hands have rubbed it for years. and theres also the misc. field wounds.

for the screw holes i was going to find some set screws and locktite them in and then use devcon or another two part epoxy and fill them it then smooth them out. Ditto for the gouge.


the next question what to use for the color. Gunkote or Duracoat, Alumahyde, Epoxy paint. And what to do with the stock? I probably gonna ditch it because stocks arent that expensive and also i need a buttpad instead of the metal plate that is there now.

 

[dnepro-mike]

gun-kote if you go with spray-ons.
stock could be refinished for like less than 20 bucks, probably even 15.

 

[GunGrey]

thing is I dont have a oven to cure it. so i was thinking alumhyde instead.

I like the dark green for the metal then black for the stock.

 

[MACGYVR]

cheaper just to get a new barrel $75-$100

 

[ColdDayInHell]

Post some pics Steve.

- - - Updated - - -

Alumahyde is good stuff, I've heard that it's very durable and is easy to touch up. You don't need more than that on a 500.

 

[GunGrey]

cheaper just to get a new barrel $75-$100

but i already have a barrel and plenty of free time, thanks to sandy

 

[GunGrey]

Im gonna keep the wood stock set and try to clean up the checkering, theres a woodworking shop close that'll hopefully have the tools

the next thing is color i might go with park gray alumahyde or the dark park color one.

ill post a before and after pic.


the whole plan is to make it a soft shooter the metal buttplate sucks and really hits you hard. even though im a recoil whore the current set up blows. Im planing on this being done by the time shotgun season opens. also i need to install some sling studs.

 

[mac1911]

Aluma hyde smells.....it takes for ever to dry. If you do it now you may find finger prrints all over it when you take it out come shotty season after use.
I did most of my work before digi camera and computer.
if shes that beat up.......just use industrial rustoleum.
Forcthe stock the birchwood Casey Hun stock refinishing kit does well for things like this.

Like you acwhile back I found myself doing a project awaiting the storm


http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/138146-Building-ARs-is-fun-but?highlight=

 

[GunGrey]

How does Indus. Rust. work? I saw your pictures and they looked good but how has it held up with solvents?



in the end i want it to look kinda like this shotgun.
http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=56188



another questions is how do i get those darkened areas like that stock has

 

[mac1911]

The 22s I have done have held up well. I clear coat them when I'm done. It can chip.
as for solvents. I'm not to heavy on thecsolvents when cleaning. I generally don't clean my plinking 22s until they fail to function which could be years at the rate I shoot them.

The wood is as it was after stripping off the mud brown stain/paint. I did nothing sand smooth and apply 2 coats of mineax tung oil finish and a coat of howards wood wax.
The tung oil finish is more like shalac. Pure tung oil doesn't dry glossy like this stuff.

One warning is careful with primer/paint finishing. Its much thicker than gun mote and the other finishes. I cold blued inbetween the tight fitting parts. Assembled the rifle and painted it. Example. If you paint the mag tube 1st then try to pass it through the mag tube ring you will ruin the paint. Same around any dovetail sights. Also if you paint the dove tail area and wedge the sight on. The paint will act like loctite. If you need to move the front sight to correct windage it will be harder.

As far as commercial grade rustoleum...I cant say for sure if the paint is any different but thecspraynozzles are better..the paint seems to cover better.
Sopose you could pull the safety data sheets and compare. You could use high temp paint also......good thing about useing off the shelf spraypaint is that its easier to fix or if you don't like it....change it

 

[mac1911]

Ps....I would go with duracoat for a field gun and the birchwood Casey stock finishing kit
It works good. If you know how to finish wood there's many choices. I prefer pure tung for all but my hunting guns. I use spray on poly. I used to use a air brush to apply and gunkote before it came in cans. Duracoat can be purchaesd now with air brushes and airasol can kits

Its all trial and error. 90% of my projects are rescue 's. Most are not worth much. I try to keep it on the cheap side. A quick sand with semi fine emery cloth and a coat of paint can do wonders for a old beater.
Strip the stock hit it with a medium stain and polycoat it.

 

[GunGrey]

So i took some before pictures and for some reason they didnt show up. so heres what i got so far

shitty picture but you can see the gouge

now heres the reciever stripped of paint

Finished it and add some JB weld to fill in the spots

wish i had a pic of the drilled and tapped holes, ****ing six of these in a line

 

[GunGrey]

threw some stripper on the stock set and then drank another beer

before

After

Im gonna do another session of stripping tomarrow, just because it not be good enough ill have to wait for it to dry tonight

Also i will not be doing anything to the checkering, its stamped so **** it

also do this in a ventilated room not the basement like i did, im spinning right now

 

[GunGrey]

the tappd holes

 

[mac1911]

you think the stripper was bad, the coatings are worse.

 

[GunGrey]

ive finally hit a snag


the jbweld came out nice and smooth, but ive done three strippings of the stocks set and I just cant get most of the stain out and off its lightened up quite a bit.


Any suggestions on what to use and what to do

 

[ColdDayInHell]

Always do that shit in a ventilated area. I guess some people learn better from their mistakes. Beers+mixed with that= a good night.

Good luck on your 500, you really don't need to spruce it up too much as others have said.

 

[GunGrey]

the receiver had to be done that was undeniable, the stock probably not but i want a reddish clolor stain on it

gonna order the new recoil pad and alumahyde/other coating next week

 

[mac1911]

You could try mineral spirits to try and draw some more stain out. Calcium carbonate can work also. Although more for getting oils and grease out of old military stocks.
There is a product called wood bleach. Which is a 2 part system. I have had little luck lightening most older stocks. Not sure what they used for stain or finish on them. They can be tough. You may just want to try sanding. The strippers can darken the wood also depending on the wood and chemicals in the strip.....oh the fun.

 

[GunGrey]

im gonna sand it some tomorrow night

 

[mac1911]

Give it a good scrub with mineral spirits and 0000 steelwool. Then sand it

 

[oldgoat]

Try lacquer thinner, most old finishes contained some lacquer plus its a good solvent. Another trick is to give it a coat of lacquer, let dry, and then strip it again. I refinish a lot of old furniture.

 

[ablediver]

Steve,
I've got an old 500for HD / TD (truck defense) at my place down south. I just bought a tactical stock and fore arm. The current unit(s) are in better shape than what you're describing A few months from now, I'll be going down there in a few months. You can have it for shipping charges.
Walt

 

[GunGrey]

Steve,
I've got an old 500for HD / TD (truck defense) at my place down south. I just bought a tactical stock and fore arm. The current unit(s) are in better shape than what you're describing A few months from now, I'll be going down there in a few months. You can have it for shipping charges.
Walt

thanks buddy, let me know when your down there when the time comes



otherwise i was able to clean the stock pretty good, small problem is one side is darker than the other. I cant seem to get the stain out im gonna try another stain remover that says to lift the stains out. then Im probably gonna restain red mohangany.

I also have the coating, i picked up some etching primer and some 2k degree heat rust-oleum paint that i will use.

 

[mac1911]

Its not so much the stain but the grain that's holding the uneven color. Went through that with my recent project "all my stocks are brown " each side of the stock has a different grain and color in the raw. Almost a pink color withvery little grain on one side.
I assume this is the sap wood? The other has clear color with more grain.

Its a pita to match this stuff. I say sand it smooth hit it with your red stain apply finish of choice. It will still look better than before. If you don't like it. You already have a standby stock waiting in the wings.

 

[bpm990d]

I think you can do a slow boil in water and TSP and it will take all the stain out.

B

 

[mac1911]

I ment to mention this before: If you have a mossy that beat up its a good chance it is one that worked well. I had no such luck with mine. It got beat up as it was tossed down to the rocky river bead after failing me for the 3rd time! then tossed in the rafters of the cabin to die a rusty death. Cabin was burnt to the ground. last time up to the cabin I found the remains of ole 500.......I added to the death by bending the barrel around a tree. I turned the remains into local PD. they laughed like hell

 

[GunGrey]

I ment to mention this before: If you have a mossy that beat up its a good chance it is one that worked well. I had no such luck with mine. It got beat up as it was tossed down to the rocky river bead after failing me for the 3rd time! then tossed in the rafters of the cabin to die a rusty death. Cabin was burnt to the ground. last time up to the cabin I found the remains of ole 500.......I added to the death by bending the barrel around a tree. I turned the remains into local PD. they laughed like hell

dude police buy back

now this mossberg has been 100% reliable. only time ive ever had a problem is due user error like short stroking, leaving the safety on and forgetting to chamber a round.

as of right now i just finished spraying on the etching primer and put the first coat of stain on. Red Mahogany is what i choose for the stain and the problem about one side looking lighter than the other, Stain took care of it though.

 

[mac1911]

Back then I don't remember hearing anything about buy backs....
It will look good. All the old work horses deserve a spruce up. I have many 22s that are in need of redoing. I assume your going with paint with the primer?. Just head parts fit with primer and paint it builds pretty thick....awaiting final showing

 

[GunGrey]

Back then I don't remember hearing anything about buy backs....
It will look good. All the old work horses deserve a spruce up. I have many 22s that are in need of redoing. I assume your going with paint with the primer?. Just head parts fit with primer and paint it builds pretty thick....awaiting final showing

everything that got primer and will get painted was taped where parts meet I.E threads, barrel attachment. Tomorrow it gets another coat of stain and a pre-fit before painting.

Just finally ordered the new recoil pad and the sling stud for the front. I love amazon