chris_1001
NES Member
I use that tape on buffer tubes to take the rattle out of the stocks. Shhhh. It my secret
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Making Skinflint look Gucci
- Thread starter pastera
- Start date
pastera
NES Member
I was going to drill and tap the stock for a set screw to put pressure on the buffer tube - will have try the tape.
Will have to drill out the plug to get to the recessed custom adjuster pin jn order to pull the stock - Mass compliance sucks for zero benefit
pastera
NES Member
No clue but since the adjuster handle is still in place, you can still collapse the stock by pulling the handle out like you were removing the stock.
Yes it won't lock into another position but it is still collapsible.
I remove the adjuster handle and replace the pin with a short version sits recessed below the stock when the pin is in a locking hole.
Once in a hole, you need to have a screw and pliers (to pull on the screw) to release the pin.
As an added measure, I 3d print a rubber (TPU) plug that blocks access to the pin so you can't even just keep a screw in your pocket to adjust it. Pulling out that plug, while not hard is a pain unless you want to bugger up your stock.
In the end, it's really up to your risk tolerance.
No Tolerance: MOE® Fixed Carbine Stock – Mil-Spec
Some Tolerance - what I do (or fill the adjuster pin hole with epoxy for zero tolerance)
Moderate: AR Stock Stop
Complete: Just do what you want and let them find you in a pile of brass
chris_1001
NES Member
It actually blocks it from collapsing. that's the D shaped protrusion on the left of the pic. You can remove the stock, then remove this. so that's where it gets dicey.
Super easy to pin a stock, I just though this was interesting.
pastera
NES Member
No, if you pull on the adjusting handle to fully retract the pin like you are installing the stock you will be able to collapse the stock to the minimum position.
It won't be locked but it will collapse therefore doesn't meet requirement.
If you pulled the handle and cut off the pin at the stock then it would be fine since you would not be able to retract the pin at all at that point
pastera
NES Member
Rechecked this - You would need to make sure the front blocking feature is up against the stock if you are using the longest length or the stock could move 1 position forward unlocked and still be considered collapsible.
Either way, I would be weary of a fixing method that required zero tools to remove in the field. That method may be fine under California case law but I wouldn't want to be a Massachusetts test case.
chris_1001
NES Member
I was questioning the above (the once before this post) on the collapsing. I know you are supposed to cut it and position it so that it wont move. And at the max extended position.
I agree it could be a risk in this crappy state.
as long as there is nothing on the stock that can be pressed and stock moves in result - you are kinda ok 'regulations' wise. just a pin removal is ok as long as it does said effect.
if you'll get yourself into a factual situation where your gun is confiscated from you for the 'review' by police - they will probably charge you no matter what with all they know of and will make all the subsequent efforts to screw you up, nevermind if you did or did not all the 'measures' - as they will be enforcing the will of the governor, not the laws.
laws will start to play out later, after they take away your ltc, raid your house to confiscate all your other guns, you hire a lawyer, spend a fortune and prove your innocence and see that all your guns were stolen away anyway by a collaboration of police and affiliated gun stores they use for consignment.
so, just do not get into a situation where your guns are exposed to law enforcement.
if you'll get yourself into a factual situation where your gun is confiscated from you for the 'review' by police - they will probably charge you no matter what with all they know of and will make all the subsequent efforts to screw you up, nevermind if you did or did not all the 'measures' - as they will be enforcing the will of the governor, not the laws.
laws will start to play out later, after they take away your ltc, raid your house to confiscate all your other guns, you hire a lawyer, spend a fortune and prove your innocence and see that all your guns were stolen away anyway by a collaboration of police and affiliated gun stores they use for consignment.
so, just do not get into a situation where your guns are exposed to law enforcement.
pastera
NES Member
New 316S thread protector
Probably take to someone to pin since I've never welded stainless and my bottle is empty.
Looks like the cap extends out a lot in the picture but it's only a few thousandths proud.
Surface finish also looks a lot worse in the camera
Probably take to someone to pin since I've never welded stainless and my bottle is empty.
Looks like the cap extends out a lot in the picture but it's only a few thousandths proud.
Surface finish also looks a lot worse in the camera
Attachments
pastera
NES Member
So @chris_1001 and @paul73 got me thinking about getting rid of the rattle
Made a Stock Stop like device with a set screw to take up the rattle
Printed in PETG so it's more functional than pretty
Works great - thanks for making me think
PM for STL file
Made a Stock Stop like device with a set screw to take up the rattle
Printed in PETG so it's more functional than pretty
Works great - thanks for making me think
PM for STL file
Attachments
pastera
NES Member
Finally got a chance to take it to the range today.
It's short stroking - tried two different lowers on two uppers.
Both lowers ran fine on the 300AAC upper.
The 20" 223 was tossing cases almost straight back at me and wasn't stripping the next round. Last round had the bolt stuck at the carrier but not fully locked back.
Didn't think to swap BCGs.
Forgot to bring a front bag but after 20-30 rounds it started to tighten up and hit the same hole at 50 yards.
Need to fix the short stroke, install a bipod and get trigger that doesn't belong in the special olympics.
Checked springs and buffer weights - both 10.5" and 3oz.
Any suggestions other than buy a less ghetto gun?
It's short stroking - tried two different lowers on two uppers.
Both lowers ran fine on the 300AAC upper.
The 20" 223 was tossing cases almost straight back at me and wasn't stripping the next round. Last round had the bolt stuck at the carrier but not fully locked back.
Didn't think to swap BCGs.
Forgot to bring a front bag but after 20-30 rounds it started to tighten up and hit the same hole at 50 yards.
Need to fix the short stroke, install a bipod and get trigger that doesn't belong in the special olympics.
Checked springs and buffer weights - both 10.5" and 3oz.
Any suggestions other than buy a less ghetto gun?
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
What gas length and is the port properly sized and aligned? If that gas block is off by a 1/16” you’re covering up a lot of gas.
what was the ammo? your loads or stock?
you can carefully drill out port in the barrel if you need more gas.
or it can be a simple misalignment, who knows. i would strip it right at the range.
pastera
NES Member
55g bullets
24.5g H335
Didn't chrono it but should be ~3100fps
Same exact ammo runs a Bushmaster 16" carbine gas system no problems.
Going to try swapping BCGs and checking gas block alignment before modifications
24.5g H335
Didn't chrono it but should be ~3100fps
Same exact ammo runs a Bushmaster 16" carbine gas system no problems.
Going to try swapping BCGs and checking gas block alignment before modifications
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Yeah definitely check that gas block and port. If it’s off by a little at a rifle length that becomes a lot.
It should be all balanced out to compensate for that but that doesn’t always happen. If you search there’s a good article online about the gas system length and proper port sizing.
pastera
NES Member
I plan on running heavier bullets in this so if the barrel needs to be drilled for 55g I may just not touch it.
Just checked the gas block
Barrel gas port: 0.105"
Gas block port: 0.170"
Axial misalignment: 0.010"
Radial misalignment: 0°
Slight amount of gas blowby apparent on gas tube at gas block.
Going to grab some factory 69g and chrono both loads - if the bushmaster is over gassed badly (likely) then I'm just chasing ghosts. Just hurts to spend $1/round when i can make it for $0.40
Looking under the hood shows BCA's machining to be way above what you'd expect for a $250 complete upper.
Surface finish is smooth and even on the turned surfaces. Gas port is cleanly drilled with no burrs at the surface or galling on the ID.
Negative: The set screws on the gas block are OOS on the hex - one fits a 2.5mm clean and the other a 3/32" (2.38mm).
Also need to get taller rings - have to pull the stock into my cheekbone hard to line up on center easily.
Just checked the gas block
Barrel gas port: 0.105"
Gas block port: 0.170"
Axial misalignment: 0.010"
Radial misalignment: 0°
Slight amount of gas blowby apparent on gas tube at gas block.
Going to grab some factory 69g and chrono both loads - if the bushmaster is over gassed badly (likely) then I'm just chasing ghosts. Just hurts to spend $1/round when i can make it for $0.40
Looking under the hood shows BCA's machining to be way above what you'd expect for a $250 complete upper.
Surface finish is smooth and even on the turned surfaces. Gas port is cleanly drilled with no burrs at the surface or galling on the ID.
Negative: The set screws on the gas block are OOS on the hex - one fits a 2.5mm clean and the other a 3/32" (2.38mm).
Also need to get taller rings - have to pull the stock into my cheekbone hard to line up on center easily.
just to check the obvious - look if the buffer spring is indeed pulled all the way onto the buffer ledge and not left under. sometimes it gets missed, as it is a bot tight there to pull it on it.
well. the port on barrel is good. before enlarging it - it may be slight misalignment of the upper then prevents normal cycling, you can feel it by hand.
you can put some metal polish there and run it by hand, to see it bolt will mate with upper a bit better.
as if the current cycle stubbornness is just due to some extra friction of not yet mated surfaces and you will drill out the port - it will turn into a PITA later.
plus a 0.1" port on barrel is even above the 0.093" spec a bit.
is gas block on screws? put some of the barrel nut lube around the port before tightening it - it will cement the area around to minimize leaks if it is leaks where pressure is going.
well. the port on barrel is good. before enlarging it - it may be slight misalignment of the upper then prevents normal cycling, you can feel it by hand.
you can put some metal polish there and run it by hand, to see it bolt will mate with upper a bit better.
as if the current cycle stubbornness is just due to some extra friction of not yet mated surfaces and you will drill out the port - it will turn into a PITA later.
plus a 0.1" port on barrel is even above the 0.093" spec a bit.
is gas block on screws? put some of the barrel nut lube around the port before tightening it - it will cement the area around to minimize leaks if it is leaks where pressure is going.
pastera
NES Member
No gas leak between the block and barrel - the leak is at the gas tube and is pretty minor.
Pulled the BCG apart - nothing out of the ordinary, no witness marks on anything and it was plenty wet.
Wondering if its a combination of a Wilde chamber and the rifle length system that just needs a little extra pressure since I'm used to a carbine length that I'm pretty sure is setup for running dirty and dry. The Bushmaster has survived several range days where I took a family and it ingested close to a case without any attention or failures.
my larue is a 20" long rifle gas, i think it is wilde also - no issues at all with weakest to hotter loads i use.
if it is low on gas and all ports are up to spec - it has to leak somewhere. if, again, you are positive it is not anything mechanical.
i would still dip upper into metal polish and ran it by hand to work out all mating surfaces. bolt bottom can have extra friction at the mag also, it is more common for ar10 builds, ar15 should not be that sensitive. plus yuo would feel it by hand if it was obstructing movement that bad. dunno. but there are no miracles there, it got to be something.
pastera
NES Member
Only had about an hour at the range so not a lot of time to investigate - will be trying a few different things to narrow down the issue since I have a couple of other AR's that run fine to swap parts around and see if the issue follows anything.
Im not even going to spew out specs but I was running cast loads at some very low charges of H4895 through a A2 platform with 100% function. So when a AR platform is not running well its usually a build up of a few issues, I have had a few inexpensive AR uppers come through with out gas tube roll pins installed....
pastera
NES Member
Checked the gas tube - it is pinned.
But I didn't blow air through it to see if it is blocked at all.
Do agree that it is likely a bunch of small issues that just need to get worked out
pastera
NES Member
So I think I found the reason why it's short stroking.
There seems to be an idiot behind the trigger.
I have a mini-14 that throws brass into the next time zone and it only comes out when introducing new shooters to rifles.
So I down loaded a bunch of ammo so it cycles nicely but doesn't beat brass to hell.
And like an idiot that's what I grabbed.
Just finished loading up some 55g with 25.0g H335 (25.3 max) - hopefully I can get to the range tomorrow to retest while proudly wearing my dunce cap.
There seems to be an idiot behind the trigger.
I have a mini-14 that throws brass into the next time zone and it only comes out when introducing new shooters to rifles.
So I down loaded a bunch of ammo so it cycles nicely but doesn't beat brass to hell.
And like an idiot that's what I grabbed.
Just finished loading up some 55g with 25.0g H335 (25.3 max) - hopefully I can get to the range tomorrow to retest while proudly wearing my dunce cap.
pastera
NES Member
I didn’t grab the chrono because I had only very grossly boresighted it and didn't want to get tempted to short cut and shoot my chrono.and it was the first thing i asked you about.
it is a good habit to never test a new gun without a chrono - this way you know at once if there is an issue.
I need to close in my Reloading room to make it into a safe room so I can get more space to separate things out so I'm not clawing through the safe to find the ammo I need.
i just did it in the fall - got a lock with thumb scanner on amazon and just added a rear steel plate to an existing door and enforced the locks receptacle. it should sustain a moderate force now, which is more than enough.
but not a full chainsaw proof, though.
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