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M4 / M16 25 Meter Zeroing Target
- Thread starter Dench
- Start date
Dench
thanks for the file.
It looks OK detail-wise, but it prints very light for some reason.
I'm going to try and use it though, by darkening the blocks and target and sight instructions by hand, and them hopefully I can copy that on a Xerox.
If this works it will save me from ordering zeroing targets from Bushmaster,which I used the first time I zeroed an M15
Could you send me the third rule in a PM?
Thanks.
Bill
thanks for the file.
It looks OK detail-wise, but it prints very light for some reason.
I'm going to try and use it though, by darkening the blocks and target and sight instructions by hand, and them hopefully I can copy that on a Xerox.
If this works it will save me from ordering zeroing targets from Bushmaster,which I used the first time I zeroed an M15
Could you send me the third rule in a PM?
Thanks.
Bill
Dench,
I got to play with the file you sent me and with the one in PDF. You are right, the PDF prints a littlle smaller but there is a reason for that. The file is slightly bigger that the max allowable printing dimension for an 8.5 by 11 inch piece of paper. On my printer driver it was automatically selecting "shrink to fit" in the page scalling option and shrinking the size to 97% of the original. When I changed the page scalling to "none" it ends up printing out at the same dimensions as your file.
Victor
I got to play with the file you sent me and with the one in PDF. You are right, the PDF prints a littlle smaller but there is a reason for that. The file is slightly bigger that the max allowable printing dimension for an 8.5 by 11 inch piece of paper. On my printer driver it was automatically selecting "shrink to fit" in the page scalling option and shrinking the size to 97% of the original. When I changed the page scalling to "none" it ends up printing out at the same dimensions as your file.
Victor
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centermass181
NES Member
25 meter zero targets are different for the m4 and m16a2/3/4.
and it will be different for your 16 inch barrel vs the 14.5 on the sopmod.
unless you are zeroing an aimpoint or acog, if you try to go box by box youll drive yourself nuts. trust me.
and it will be different for your 16 inch barrel vs the 14.5 on the sopmod.
unless you are zeroing an aimpoint or acog, if you try to go box by box youll drive yourself nuts. trust me.
Yup I know that. The number of click needed to center will be less the shorter the barrel is but the direction of the clicks as per the chart will still be the same. It will get you there... as long as you remember that caveat.
P-14
NES Member
centermass181
NES Member
zeroed. move to the qual range.
If you look at the target, it shows you how to adjust elevation during the zeroing process by using the front post sight. You turn the front post in the direction indicated by the semi-circular arrows. After the rifle is zeroed, you change the POI for longer ranges by using the elevation drum at the base of the rear sight.
Do you have a rear sight with the distance drum?
I had a feeling it was going to be something like this. It looks like you will have to zero your sights for whatever distance you think will serve your shooting best (I like the 50/200 yd zero since I think it will serve me over the distances I would probably be shooting).
I found this video on youtube. My apologies if it covers stuff you already know.
Review of PTS Magpul Back UP Sights (MBUS) Gen 1 - YouTube
For back up sights you really have to just decide in your rough sight in. I chose to use the 50 yard zero. Then I took a little time to get a rough idea on my front side holds at 25 yards 100 yards and 200 yards. Back up sights will get you a hit somewhere on target....after all that I ditched "back up" sights and just got the RRA A2 detachable.....
I have used the the 25meter targets for all of my AR sight in with iron sights. It works as intended.
I'm not good at describing it but I loosen the small Allen screw down inside the elevation wheel. I then turn the lower elevation wheel up 4 clicks while holding the upper drum one 3/8. Then I zero as the 25 m target says. This gives you a few moa adjustment for closer ranges and @ 100 you can dial in a bit.
Many forget you looking for hits on target with a ar as intended use. So anything you can do to give yourself a few added adjustments for actual target shooting such as cmp is a good thing.
Question for those who might know.
How big are the qualifying targets for the services, what is the score method and at what ranges.
Also do the marines still zero at a different distance and also is the qualifying different between the branches.?
I have used the the 25meter targets for all of my AR sight in with iron sights. It works as intended.
I'm not good at describing it but I loosen the small Allen screw down inside the elevation wheel. I then turn the lower elevation wheel up 4 clicks while holding the upper drum one 3/8. Then I zero as the 25 m target says. This gives you a few moa adjustment for closer ranges and @ 100 you can dial in a bit.
Many forget you looking for hits on target with a ar as intended use. So anything you can do to give yourself a few added adjustments for actual target shooting such as cmp is a good thing.
Question for those who might know.
How big are the qualifying targets for the services, what is the score method and at what ranges.
Also do the marines still zero at a different distance and also is the qualifying different between the branches.?
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Sounds like Chuck Santose's Improved Battlesight Zero.
http://grburnett.us/guns/ImprovedBattlesightZero.pdf
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vb...on/143705-zeroing-ar-15-hp-competition-2.html here's where I got it. This basically is for service rifle set up but you can apply it to any AR A2 style rear sight. Gives me 2 moa adjustment lower from the 6/3 or 8/3 setting on my standard AR. Post 11 more so for national match type sights post 12 for the military style sights.
