LEE Auto Prime

TonyD

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Anyone use this? I have one that I'm going to use to prime my cases with Winchester primers. LEE says to use only Winchester or CCI primers. Anything else to be aware of?
 

TonyD

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Wildweasel said:
Get a primer pocket cleaner. Make sure they are CLEAN. (the primer won't seat all the way otherwise.)
Otherwise it works good.

Glenn - See my other post on my process. I'll add more later in a different thread but I've found this much out. As much attention as I gave the primer pockets, you can always give more to help seat new primers.
 

TonyD

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One thing I've noticed is that even though I used the same pocket reamer and reamed to the same depth until no brass was being cut, different brands of brass require either more or less pressure to seat the new primer.

Being new to hand priming, I'm not sure how much pressure can be exerted without crushing or detonating the primer.

Any suggestions?
 

Wildweasel

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I use an RCBS pocket swager to even out the brass. You can give it a heck of a sqeeze, just wear your safty glasses and aim away from your face! If everything is right it should just be a firm squeeze .
If it goes in too easy or too hard I chuck the brass. Don't need backed out primers or some stuck out.
(slamfire)
 

TonyD

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Thanks - I already have two that the primers almost fell in they were so loose. I'm getting a little more used to it.

How exactly does the swager work?
 

Wildweasel

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It is primarily for taking out crimps, but it is a rounded nub that will set the pocket to a standard size.
(to prevent tight pockets) if they are loose just chuck them. I can post a pic if you want but will have to wait till I am home.
 

TonyD

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Wildweasel said:
It is primarily for taking out crimps, but it is a rounded nub that will set the pocket to a standard size.
(to prevent tight pockets) if they are loose just chuck them. I can post a pic if you want but will have to wait till I am home.

That would be great, thanx. I think I might have one in this Box O' Stuff I was given but not sure how it works or what it fits.

Also, which is better and why. Reaming or swaging?
 

jkelly

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TonyD,

For my money the Lee Auto Prime is the best hand primer around. I can only add to make sure that you are wearing saftey glasses when loading and priming. Also Federal primers seem to be much softer then the Winchester (and seem to go off with less pressure) so you might want to not use them.


Respectfully,

jkelly
 

jkelly

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mailmanx,

If you have the proper shell holder and the 7 1/2 Rem is the proper primer for your brass/load then I see no problem.

Clean the primer pockets, take your time and seat the primers to a uniform depth.

You might also consider trimming your brass to a uniform length as stipulated in you loading manual and then chamfering both the outside and inside.

And I know you know to clean the primer pockets, trim and chamfer the case before you prime the case.


Respectfully,

jkelly
 
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Roger that...

So far I have almost 300 LC cases (former XM193)

Deprimed
Trimmed, Chamferred inside and out to 1.75 with 3 way RCBS Power Trimmer
Primer Pccket cleaned/uniformed
Tuf Nut Cleaned for 2.5 hrs
Flash hole de-burred which also removed any errant specks of Tufnut media in the process...

So now all I need is the right bushing for my Type S Neck Sizing die...

Maybe next week. There's always 'one more thing' I need...

Gonna try Varget with 69 gr SMKs to start... from the Sierra manual recipes, of course.

Thanks.

Jon
 
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Trim your brass AFTER you size it. It does make a difference.

FWIW, I like the LEE priming tools. I use an Auto-Prime II, and have for many years. Make sure you swage your primer pockets, if it's military brass (only need to do this the first time you reload them).

As to primers, Rem 7 1/2's are OK, as are Winchester. CCI's are safe, but I don't care for them.

If it's for a military semi-auto, avoid any other primers than what I listed above.
 
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Nickle:

I looked at the cases and they are stamped LC 05 with no NATO markings, so I thought they would not need to be swaged... The 7 1/2 primers seat well once cleaned and uniformed... Do I really need to get a pocket swager???

Jon
 
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You can use your inside case chamfering tool for now. I do that, and though it's not as "pretty", it works OK.

I process a few thousand (3 to 5+) every year, and find the chamfering tool to work good enough. Sooner or later, I'll have to break down and buy a dedicated tool. I've got Lyman hand chamfering tools that were designed for doing primer pockets, but they've worn out (way too quickly).
 
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I got a call back from Federal (ATK) and they told me I do have to swage the primer pockets on the XM193 cartridges since they are in fact military... and to also start with the lowest powder charge from the manual I am using, and watch for signs of high pressures... Now to find a swager... Jon
 
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Mailmanx said:
I got a call back from Federal (ATK) and they told me I do have to swage the primer pockets on the XM193 cartridges since they are in fact military... and to also start with the lowest powder charge from the manual I am using, and watch for signs of high pressures... Now to find a swager... Jon

Jon, like I said, use your chamfering tool. It's been done in professionally remanufactured ammo. Just be careful not to overdo it, you'll figure that out.
 
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I have been using an RCBS pocket Uniformer... which seemed to do the job... the Rem 7 1/2 primer seats flush witht the case bottom... though I understand it should be .002- .003 below flush... Ordered a Dillon Swager and some other odds & ends... seems like the odds and ends keep coming!

Should be in business by next Weds...

Jon
 

TonyD

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Jon, A reminder of my reply in your other thread; YOU MUST resize before trimming your cases. The neck will stretch during the resizing process.

As to the other, I use a Hornady pocket reamer to remove crimps and I also use RP 7 1/2's just fine with my LEE Autoprime.
 
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Tony:

I have found that there are often times dents in the case neck on the XM193 cartridges I am going to be reloading, so I remove those while trimming the cases BEFORE sizing using an RCBS Power Trimmer Pro with a three-way head. Since I don't yet have the proper bushing in place for my sizing die, I haven't been able to assess the degree of change in case length. I appreciate your input and will double check the case lengths once I have the proper bushing installed.

I ordered a Swager from Dillon and will try that as well, though it seems the RCBS Pocket Uniformer I have been using seems to remove the crimp and allow for adequate seating of the Rem 7 1/2 primers.

This has been an eye opening process for me, being new to HP rifle, reloading and all things precision... so for now I just roll with the challenges presented to me. Seems like someone should start a thread called 'Just one more thing...', since it seems I'm always 'just one more thing' away from getting started.... [lol] [lol] [lol]

Tomorrow I shoot my first CMP match... that'll be interesting as well!

Take care.

Jon
 

TonyD

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Mailmanx said:
Tony:

I have found that there are often times dents in the case neck on the XM193 cartridges I am going to be reloading, so I remove those while trimming the cases BEFORE sizing using an RCBS Power Trimmer Pro with a three-way head. Since I don't yet have the proper bushing in place for my sizing die, I haven't been able to assess the degree of change in case length. I appreciate your input and will double check the case lengths once I have the proper bushing installed.

I ordered a Swager from Dillon and will try that as well, though it seems the RCBS Pocket Uniformer I have been using seems to remove the crimp and allow for adequate seating of the Rem 7 1/2 primers.

This has been an eye opening process for me, being new to HP rifle, reloading and all things precision... so for now I just roll with the challenges presented to me. Seems like someone should start a thread called 'Just one more thing...', since it seems I'm always 'just one more thing' away from getting started.... [lol] [lol] [lol]

Tomorrow I shoot my first CMP match... that'll be interesting as well!

Take care.

Jon

Jon, again, you must size before trimming. Dents in the neck will be removed during sizing, and dents in the body is no big deal. These happen when case hits the brass deflector on ejection. You can minimize that by placing a small piece of duct tape on the deflector.

However, it is UNSAFE to trim before sizing. If you won't take this advice from us here, I STRONGLY suggest you seek the same advice elsewhere. Manuals, other reloaders, shops, reloading supply company's, etc.

If you don't trim after sizing you can and will encounter catostophic failure at some point. I don't know how else to stress this point.

Good luck.

BTW - How did your first match go?
 
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Tony:

Point taken and understood... now tha tI have the right bushings for my sizer die... it takes care of the neck dents.... OK...

368/500 for the first time out... minor mistakes and sights not adjusted properly for prone... but other than that... AOK.

Thanks.

Jon
 
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200 Yd. actual... reduce targets... 55gr FMJ XM193 ammo...

It was a bit nerve wracking to remember all the timing, # of shots, getting sight picture and dealing with a couple of jams... 1 miss, all shots hit the target (mine) and if my sights had been properly adjusted 3 clicks left of where I had them, I would have made it to at least 400! It's definitley a blast! A bit tough to see the bullet holes during the prone... glasses kept fogging up and eye fatigue.

Going to the last area CMP match next week... same place. Will hopefully have my own sling by then, and have my sights straightened out. I think the key for me as a newbie is to use the time between courses to double check everything and try to breath!

We had a cook out after the match where I got to meet some of the other shooters and kibitz about the MASS AG and his stupid rulings about ammo and component purchases over the net and such. Nice to hear what others are doing for reloading and other topics.

Anyhow, hope to reload enough for the match saturday. Gonna work up some loads out of the Sierra manual with Varget powder... was planning on LC cases, 25.3 g powder, 7 1/2 Rem primers and 69 SMKs... as that is the accuracy load from the manual. Will work up to that from 24.5, 24.7, 24.9, 25.1 and 25.3 in 5 round lots. Any suggestions?

Have a nice day!

Jon
 
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Tony:

I have re-read the Sierra Reloading manual front to back... again... Thanks...

Once I receive my Dillon Swager, I'll go back and swage all the XM193 cases I have prepared so far... Then I'll re-size them with my new Redding Bushing Sizing die with a .245 bushing...double check trim length... etc. Do you tumble your cases prior to sizing and again after sizing/de-priming? Waht about case lubing???

Plan to use Rem 7 1/2 primers, Varget powder and 69 SMKs... since the match is at 200yds. Will work up the loads as specified previously.

PM me with your P# as I'd like to talk to you before I settle in for quantity reloading this winter. I did order a BR-30 powder measure, since the Dillon isn't quite precise for my taste, especially if I go to Nashua, NH to shoot 600 next spring.

I'm definitely hooked! I received my Sling today in the UPS... so will have to try it out after figuring out the instructions.... oh boy... more stuff to learn...

The first match was great and the help I recieved from Ralph (my line mate) and the host of the match was excellent. Everyone had tips and ideas for me to ponder and explore. This coming Saturday is the last match of the season, so I'll attend that one and hope to break 400...
After that, It'll be more load testing and practice for set-up, timing, etc. It's already damn cold in the mornings here in MA, so the long johns are ready for action.

The best part of the first match was that I didn't choke when I had a couple of jams... just cleared 'em and kept firing... managed to shoot all rounds on my target with only one miss... 368...


Talk soon.

Jon
 
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