Is Froglube as good as I've heard?

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Get yourself a quart of 20W Mobil 1 and a quart of synthetic ATF. Mix the two of them together and you'll have more gun oil than you'll use in five years.

It's better and cheaper than pretty much anything sold specifically for guns.
 
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Works good. A little bit is a pain with the heating process. But no complaint. Works good on dry skin. I put it on my knives that are going in the safe for a while and don't wipe it off. Keeps them rust free.
 

ThePreBanMan

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What about for cleaning?


Works very well for cleaning too. Motor oil and ATF have detergents in them too. Remember - they keep your engine and tranny free of grime and gunk too. Plus motor oil is exposed to more extreme conditions than even the most abused firearm would ever submit it to. And its way more cost effective.

I use a few different products intended for automotive. I use chlorine free brake clean in lieu of gun scrubber. I use motor oil in lieu of gun oil. Sometimes I use 90w gear oil in lieu of gun oil. But I still use Rem Oil for coating the inside of the barrel and the outside/finish. I use the motor/gear oil on internal components, moving parts, slide rails, etc.
 
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Sorry to hear this about the guys at SIG and the folks at the gun shop. If you shoot long and often enough you will most likely come to realize that there is no "Super Lube". Just like those ads where they take the oil out of a car that has been treated with the automotive equivalent of super lube and then win the Baja 1000. It is all BS.

For about the last ten years I have been using synthetic motor oil (20w50 for centerfire and 5w50 for rimfire) and found that it works just as well as the more expensive "super" oils. Save your money; a quart of synthetic motor oil cost less than $10 and will last a very long time. Many of the "super" oils cost $10 for four oz.
^^This. Really don't need anything else.

StevensMarksman
 

warwickben

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People complain about the applying it for the first time hearing it up etc .... You don't have to take ur gun apart and do that . But really tho wait till your gonna do a full strip toss it in the oven for a few mins . Only adds mins to your complete strip and clean time.

Or

Just put some of the paste on the contact points do a few mag dumps and its gotten hot enough . Wipe down the out side . From then on out just apply it like normal lube.


At least with a ar 15. My ar 15 I gunked it up with the paste and fired a bunch of rounds till I saw it melting . If your not using a piston kit 10 rds should get it hot enough .


I like frog as much as I like mpro7 . Don't bother my skin. I don't use frog to clean tho . I use seafoam to break up carbon etc .
 
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I use small ultrasonic cleaner to pistols and small rifle parts that will fit inside.. using the lyman gun parts cleaner and mostly water. I was thinking of trying froglube but I was NOT going to buy froglube to fill the ultrasonic cleaner (at 200-300 a gallon!)

Question for anyone that uses froglube.... do you use the ultrasonic cleaner too with it?
 
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I've been using it exclusively since February, the BF does too on most things. We clean guns in the kitchen, but only with froglube. He used something else in my kitchen once. Once. Stank wicked bad, weird residue on my kitchenaid mixer. New rule was put in place that day... stinky stuff in the basement, froglube is ok upstairs.

I also like the smell better, in my old job I used to be able to sniff out some customers that had freshly cleaned guns concealed... stank like a garage or a printing shop sometimes! Some of the guys I work with love froglube, some stick with hoppes.. personal preference I guess.
 

Laderbuilt

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I like anti seize on the wear points.
80078c.jpg

Hate to break it to you but anti-seize is not a good lubricant for moving parts.
It is a lubricant for say bolts as they are assembled and it prevents electrolyses but it has fine metal particles in it that will cause wear on moving parts.

To the OP I use frog lube it works well for what it is. I like the fact that it is safe to handle and doesn't kill my brain cells. I don't have many left to spare.
 
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I like anti seize on the wear points.
80078c.jpg

I hope not zinc oxide anti seize....

Great for steel on aluminum threads/inserts. I dont condone in a firearm though... Perhaps I'm just living in the dark?

And I always apply a liberal coating of Astroglide when I need to fit my gun in a tight holster. Especially brown leather.
 

EddieCoyle

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What about for cleaning?

The Mobil1 / ATF mix is a lube, Although you can use it for cleaning, it doesn't work nearly as well as a solvent designed specifically for cleaning (or dozens of other products that you can use to clean a gun like kerosene, ethanol, Simple Green, etc).

I don't get the whole "one-product-for-cleaning-AND-lubricating" thing. The properties that make a chemical a good cleaner are different than those that make something a good lube. Any product used for both has some kind of compromise somewhere. You certainly don't save money by doing this, so I'm not sure I understand why people think this is important.

I guess if you're trying to save space in a bugout bag it would be important, but if that's the case, get a little bottle of CLP and call it good, then do your regular cleaning/lube with products that work best for each purpose.
 

FSTC

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I hope not zinc oxide anti seize....

Great for steel on aluminum threads/inserts. I dont condone in a firearm though... Perhaps I'm just living in the dark?
Apparently, I was living in the dark. Back in the day, anti seize was lead/graphite based. Now it is a mixture of Al/Cu and graphite.
I like it because it stays around. Time to do some more research.
 
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I use it on all my firearms. The biggest noticeable difference I have seen is on my AR's. The charging handle/BCG slides back like there is almost no friction...it is VERY smooth. I am extremely impressed with product thus far. The first application, if you decide to follow their by-the-book method, is a bit of a pain in the ass. You have to completely strip down your firearm and de-grease it (I used Simple Green), heat up the parts with a hairdryer or heat gun, and then apply and let it sit for an hour or so. The Frog Lube eats up/dissolves petroleum based lubricants, so you can't really mix the two.

The other method they say you can use is to simply start using it as you would your normal CLP and, over time and a few cleanings, the Frog Lube will work it's way into the firearm.

All in all, I think it's a fantastic product, but it's not like other products aren't great as well. It's just personal preference. I'm sure some people will complain about it just like any other product, but most reviews of it are positive.
 

yanici

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I tried Frog Lube. Then next day I noticed my skin was turning bumpy and had a greenish color. For some strange reason I found I had developed a large appetite for flys and other insects.
 
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I used frog lube from the start with a new gun. I noticed lots of wear on sliding components. I purchased a second gun of the same type and used traditional oil/grease combination. The wear on the same parts with the oil/grease was much less than the wear with frog lube.

I will not use frog lube on anything unless I have no choice.
 

Livefreeormass

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Just use something, remoil, motor oil, space shuttle grease (I mean Krytox), maybe even WD40. Use it regularly and generously.

Frog lube too. And I hear that those Kali pols in Washington DC like it applied in them as well.
 
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