Bullet Reloading Question

[Patriot]

I have these American Bullets which are DEWC, 148gn, .357dia. I used them at one time
when reloading .357mag. I have searched through everything I have for reloading info for this
bullet and now cannot find any information on it. I doubt I would have reloaded it without
having some guideline as I'm pretty much of a novice wrt reloading and was a lot worse then.

On the picture below I brought the brass up to where the arrow is when inserting the bullet.
In absence of any OAL reloading info I am not sure if that is the right location.

If anyone has any info on this bullet that would give me powder loading for .38spl or .357mag
(preferred) along with OAL I would appreciate it. I have some accurate powders (#2, #9.
#2700) and W231 on hand.

 

[Thunderbolt]

TBP, I would load so the top is flush with the case then roll crimped.. 1.175? COL, my book is downstairs...

3.1 gr W231, 2.8 gr Bullseye, or 2.5 gr of Clays would be a good start.. all are powderpuff loads for .38 special. Work quite well in my Model 14, sorry don't have any chrony data..

Thunderbolt

 

[EddieCoyle]

TBP,

For the best accuracy, you want to load them a tiny bit shorter than you did. That last little lube-less groove near the top (and bottom if you flip it over) of the bullet is a crimp groove. You want to load them so that the top of the case is near the top of that groove, then apply a light roll crimp. After crimping the top of the case will end up in the center of the crimp groove.

Just for the record, you could load them longer (like you did) or shorter (like Thunderbolt described) and get away with it. However, your loads will be more consistent (also accurate) if you load to the crimp groove and apply a light roll crimp.

As for powder, #9 and 2700 are way too slow.

You can go with 2.8 grains of #2 for the .38 (2.9gr for the .357) for about 700fps or 3.0 grains of 231 (3.1 for the .357) for the same velocity.

I hope this helps.

 

[Patriot]

Thanks very much guys. I appreciate the info.

TBP

 

[Thunderbolt]

I'll have to try the crimp groove myself, since they are for a revolver (although I would love to find a S&W model 52 sometime when I have the cash in hand)

Thunderbolt

 

[EddieCoyle]

I'll have to try the crimp groove myself, since they are for a revolver (although I would love to find a S&W model 52 sometime when I have the cash in hand)

Thunderbolt

Some bullets have them, some don't. Most of the double-end wadcutters (like the ones TBP is using) have crimp grooves. Most of the hollow-based wadcutters do not, and should be loaded flush with the case. Either way, a light roll crimp helps to keep things consistent.

Just for the record, the most accurate .38 bullets I've ever used were 148gr HBWCs.

 

[WVBob]

from the Aliant manual for a 148gr LWC

http://www.alliantpowder.com/

Recipes
Minimum OAL
(inches) Bbl Length Primer Powder Charge Weight
(grains) Velocity
(fps) Chamber Pressure

1.33 5.6 Fed. 200 Bullseye 5.7 1,475 34,000
1.33 5.6 Fed. 200 Red Dot 4.6 1,300 33,600
1.33 5.6 Fed. 200 Green Dot 5.1 1,310 34,000
1.33 5.6 Fed. 200 Unique 6.4 1,465 33,800
1.33 5.6 Fed. 200 Herco 6.7 1,510 33,900

 

[WILDCATT]

dbwc

I have a 4 cavity lyman that makes those bullets.I use them in MY S&W 52.they have to be setted flush or they wont fit the mag.I also use them in my mod 10 with Bomar rib.roll crimp.I use roll crimp on 45 as well.verry accurate with 2.8 gr of 700X or bullseye.
You might consider casting as things get tighter in Mass.a lee 20# and lee molds are not that expensive.I am on SS and cant afford lyman or RCBS.