I think its because 80% of the people that have one think they're just standard Chinese code /26\ models. Before I knew what they were I passed on one at a gun show for around $300.
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Advice on Auction "Strategery" I WON
- Thread starter majspud
- Start date
I think its because 80% of the people that have one think they're just standard Chinese code /26\ models. Before I knew what they were I passed on one at a gun show for around $300.
All are 65's, 68's or 69's. The '65 has a blade bayo and bolt in the white. The '68 and '69 had the blued bolt and stock cut for both the blade and the spike.
But no need to hi-jack the thread that's about internet auctions and Mausers. I'll introduce the Egyptian when it arrives.
The practice of bidding early and aggressively has paid off well for multiple purchases over an extended period of time. Sure, I paid a lot for the first few guns, but when familiar bidders get used to seeing my name on top, they know that it's going to take a big swing to knock me off the hill. Quite a few have gone for reasonable coin lately.
If I was simply going to buy one gun and run, I might wait for the last fifteen minutes.
But no need to hi-jack the thread that's about internet auctions and Mausers. I'll introduce the Egyptian when it arrives.
The practice of bidding early and aggressively has paid off well for multiple purchases over an extended period of time. Sure, I paid a lot for the first few guns, but when familiar bidders get used to seeing my name on top, they know that it's going to take a big swing to knock me off the hill. Quite a few have gone for reasonable coin lately.
If I was simply going to buy one gun and run, I might wait for the last fifteen minutes.
That strategy will almost assure you pay the highest price possible. Nothing to gain bidding early, best to pick your top price and dump it in at the end. No remorse if you don't win. It will keep you from chasing or encouraging bidding wars. Lots of bidders get caught up and don't want to lose. If you bump them early on, they mull it over and have plenty of time to bump you back.
I have to politely disagree. Though I don't steal many collectibles.... uh, wait....what am I saying? I do steal many collectibles. This recent auction is a perfect example. I received no less than ten or twelve Personal Messages from members of two different forums while the auction was active. They all stated that had they not seen my name as high bidder, they would be hitting that particular gun hard. So, if I had not bid early and adequately, I might not have landed this rare variant without stepping over fellow members and paying through the nose. As it turned out, the winning bid was far, far less than I was willing to pay.
But again, this strategy might not work for the occasional buyer. Other interested parties might not recognize the name of someone who only bids a few times a year.
![[crying]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/006.gif "Crying [crying]")
dcmdon
NES Member
For non-15 minute rule sites you can't beat sniping something with the largest bid you would consider in the last 2-3 seconds.
You either win or lose, no regrets.
On gunbroker, I make one bid, and make it as high as I'm willing to go about 15:10 before the end of the auction. That way I don't kick it out any longer.
You either win or lose, no regrets.
On gunbroker, I make one bid, and make it as high as I'm willing to go about 15:10 before the end of the auction. That way I don't kick it out any longer.
![[popcorn]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/043.gif "Popcorn [popcorn]")
I WON!
My prize:
1. 1916 V. CHR. SCHILLING contract Gew98 (10th rarest of 11 Gew98 manufacturers in WWI)
2. Matching K date conversion
3. 1920 Versailles/Weimar overstamp.
4. Bolt MM save front band.
5. VG bore
Three teaser photos, more to follow when it gets here.
...and the cost...
$405.
MS
My prize:
1. 1916 V. CHR. SCHILLING contract Gew98 (10th rarest of 11 Gew98 manufacturers in WWI)
2. Matching K date conversion
3. 1920 Versailles/Weimar overstamp.
4. Bolt MM save front band.
5. VG bore
Three teaser photos, more to follow when it gets here.
...and the cost...
$405.
MS
Last edited:
40 caliber
NES Member
$405 good job Tim! you scored!
So, now that this is all over. Give us a recap on your strategy and how it worked for you.
Oh, and a link to the closed auction would be nice! Congrats on closing out on a firearm that you will greatly appreciate.
Oh, and a link to the closed auction would be nice! Congrats on closing out on a firearm that you will greatly appreciate.
My "strategery" was:
1. Contacted the seller when I found it on the first day to express my interest and ask a few questions beyond the limited description.
2. Bid my 'maximum' bid on day 2 of the auction after approval from the Bank of Wife.
3. Sweated for two weeks, two other bidders moved it up $50 each on the second and fourth day. There was no other activity.
4. Sweetened the pot $75 with two hours left.
5. A gunboards K98 forum member vouched for me with the seller.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=199488898
The odd mark on the left butt stock may be an intwined "BS" which could be "Bahnstutz" or German railway police. Some also say that is the proof of a Berlin/Spandau rework; but that may be BS.
MS
1. Contacted the seller when I found it on the first day to express my interest and ask a few questions beyond the limited description.
2. Bid my 'maximum' bid on day 2 of the auction after approval from the Bank of Wife.
3. Sweated for two weeks, two other bidders moved it up $50 each on the second and fourth day. There was no other activity.
4. Sweetened the pot $75 with two hours left.
5. A gunboards K98 forum member vouched for me with the seller.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=199488898
The odd mark on the left butt stock may be an intwined "BS" which could be "Bahnstutz" or German railway police. Some also say that is the proof of a Berlin/Spandau rework; but that may be BS.
MS
Congrats !
![[party]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/021.gif "Party [party]")
If anyone else is interested in this type of rifle or maker, the same seller has just listed another V. Chr. Schilling, 1918, 98M, K date conversion, but this one has no matching parts.
MS
MS
