If you do a proper job of staking, the locktite is superfluous. But that being said, every time I've done this job, (every 1911 I've ever owned has shaken loose) I degrease the frame holes and plunger tube legs and use red locktite before staking. I use the red locktite on the gun's ejector also. Always degrease parts completely first.
One thing you should look into before staking is the size of the relief hole on the inside of the frame hole where the plunger tube legs poke through. Most of the S&W 1911s I've owned have had almost no relief (countersink) here. This countersink is where the flared tube leg material flows into. When you "mushroom" the leg ends they lock into these relief areas. It's a mechanical hold so locktite should not be needed. But as mentioned earlier, I do add locktite too. If those small countersink areas are nonexistent, or too small, you can get a tool to cut them by hand and or make a tool from a drill bit of proper size. That is what I did. Hope this helps.
John
