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Yugo M48 BO Mauser Rifle Has Very Rough Bore. Is It Safe To Shoot?

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Hi,
I recently bought a Yugo M48 BO as a wish-me-good-luck purchase. For now, I jut want to get the feeling of this generation of firearm development, the dawn of a completely new era. So a lowly Yugo M48 or Mosin Nagant will quench my thirst. If I fall in love with the bolt action platform, I will splurge for something fancy and modern like Tikka, or high-value collectibles like Enfield and Springfield.
The military surplus bolt-action rifles had a huge price increase recently. Even a Mosin Nagant with unknown bore quality will be bid up to $350 to $450 range. As a comparison, a $300 Remington 783 with scope can be improved to 1 or 2 MOA, shooting all kinds of ammo I could possibly want. The only use I have for a military surplus bolt action rifle is to decorate a wall, appreciate the engineering, and shoot 20 rounds on a 50 yard range once in a while. Nothing could be better than a Mauser action military rifle that started the firearms revolution. That is the reason I took the risk and went for this Yugo M48 BO.
Yesterday I got the rifle. All serial numbers match. Outside bluing is good. Chamber and bolt are shining. The bolt action and trigger action are smooth and crisp. Everything seems exceptionally good until I encounter the reason for its low price. The stock is sanded, even though the sanding is done very well, and the stock serial number is very clear. I will later ask on how to refinish the stock.
The biggest reason for the low price is the rusted and pitted bore. I cleared out a ton of rust from the bore. Later I will ask for advice on how to thoroughly remove the rust, and prevent further rust in dry and cold New England area, if that is ever possible. I did remember the bore conditions of several military surplus rifles in several local gun shops. Many rifles priced more than $400 have much more atrociously looking bores. Since the local gun shops are standing behind the safety of these rifles, I assume that it is possible for a rifle to shoot safely despite ugly looking bore. Mauser-action rifles are also famous for delivering acceptable battlefield accuracy even after being worn out very badly. However, before I go to the shooting range, I would like to ask people's opinion on safety, as well as reasonable accuracy in this condition at 50 yards. Please keep in mind that I am a newbie in shooting. With my Smith & Wesson MP 15 22 and peep sight, I can only shoot 6 MOA ( 1 minute of soda can) at 50 yards. The vendor promised to take care of this rifle if it turns out to be not shootable.


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The crown seems OK.

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Give the bore a good soaking with a good solvent and let it sit for a few then give it a thorough cleaning. As long as there are no obstructions and your using the correct ammunition I would feel completely safe in shooting it. I've shot "worn out rifles" that still produced acceptable accuracy. Seeing that you mostly want to decorate a wall and occasionally shoot it, the rifle seems to be a good candidate for just such a thing. Heck, even if you take it out and shoot at a torso silhouette and get "minute of man" its still a cool rifle to adorn your wall with.
 
Thanks for advice.
I have put strong solvent into the barrel, let it soak for a while, then used copper brush and cloth to clean it. I brushed it until I did not see much rust on the cloth.
When I looked into the barrel from both ends, I am sure that there is no obstruction.
I got worried when I imaged that the bullet travels at such a high speed inside the barrel. I would expect that pitted lands, like broken railway, might somehow derail this "bullet train". But if many people have successfully shot numerous bullet out of worn-out barrels, my luck should not be so bad that I become the first person ever in this world to suffer the exploding barrel due to pitted rifling.
 
The rust inside the barrel of my Yugo M48 BO is horrendous. From the picture of crown I attached to the first post, the rust around the muzzle is clearly visible. I can only imagine how rusty it is inside the barrel.
I feel very strange that all other part of the same serial number are shiny and rust-free. Only the inside of the barrel is rusty to the extreme. Is that due to operating in cold weather, and the condensation indoors created damp environment inside the barrel, or due to the use of corrosive ammunition?
Will existing rust lead to more rust, even after I put on gun oil? What solvent and methods are the best to remove rust from inside of the barrel?
 
he rust inside the barrel of my Yugo M48 BO is horrendous. From the picture of crown I attached to the first post, the rust around the muzzle is clearly visible. I can only imagine how rusty it is inside the barrel.
I feel very strange that all other part of the same serial number are shiny and rust-free. Only the inside of the barrel is rusty to the extreme. Is that due to operating in cold weather, and the condensation indoors created damp environment inside the barrel, or due to the use of corrosive ammunition?

corrosive ammo will do that, probably was not cleaned after it was last shot.
Use one of the brass/bronze bore brushes and go to town from the breach end.
You really
need a
long rod, that's the hard part, since the barrels so long.
You should be able to get the bore pretty shinny and may look like new.
use one of the water based solvents as well. or even Windex
May need to alternate types of solvent.

does that gun have the mouser V sites (not sure what there called) the back is a v notch and front v post. so easy to line up and hit your mark with them
 
I have used a copper brush and an extra long rod on this M48 BO. At the beginning, the cloth was caked with rust. At the end, there was only a feint shade of rust on the cloth.
As can be seen from the pictures in the first post, the bore looks shiny, just have a lot of cracks on the lands.
Next time I may use tooth paste with copper brush.

The M48 BO has pointed front sight post like a inverted V, and a sight hood. The rear sight is a V notch. I found the sights are easy to use, and should offer good accuracy for the aiming.
This weekend I will go to the shooting range and see how accurate this M48 can be in my hands. I will report back in this thread.
 
The M48 BO has pointed front sight post like a inverted V, and a sight hood. The rear sight is a V notch. I found the sights are easy to use, and should offer good accuracy for the aiming.
yes, that's what I meant to describe, I love those sites. wit my AR riffles, I get the 6 MOA from soda can , but with the v sites no problem whacking a 2x4 at 100 plus yards. for an iron sights for me the "Vs" best thing going.
 
That bore is not to bad , if you seen my k98 you would say thefe is no way that thing can shoot.

Where are you located? I can put my cheap bore scope down the bore for a better look.

Clean the bejeez out of it. Gunslick foaming bore cleaner does well by me.

Then shoot it...
You can reload cast loads and even try and see if remington makes 8mm in thier managed recoil loads.
 
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A bad bore won't make it unsafe, just horribly inaccurate.
Depends. I have a sewer pipe bore on my polish m44 and I can get a fist sized group at 100 yards. You have to define "horrible"......for a rifle I paid $120 for it's perfectly accurate. :)
 
The replies to my comment about accuracy are true enough... and speaking of that, I wouldn't even clean it much before shooting. Nylon brush with CLP just to knock out the cobwebs, at most.

More military rifles have been ruined by over-cleaning than by under-cleaning.
 
The replies to my comment about accuracy are true enough... and speaking of that, I wouldn't even clean it much before shooting. Nylon brush with CLP just to knock out the cobwebs, at most.

More military rifles have been ruined by over-cleaning than by under-cleaning.

Just clean the bore with bullets!!!!!!
 
Don't be surprised if that rifle still shoots fine. I have an old Winchester 1873 and a Remington model 6 that both have horrible bores. Both are worse than your model 48 and they still shoot fine. They even still shoot lead bullets well. As powerman said, it was probably caused by corrosive ammo. If you're unsure of the ammo you,re shooting, run a couple of patches soaked with black powder solvent down the bore the day you shoot and then clean as you usually would.
 
Hi,
I recently bought a Yugo M48 BO as a wish-me-good-luck purchase. For now, I jut want to get the feeling of this generation of firearm development, the dawn of a completely new era. So a lowly Yugo M48 or Mosin Nagant will quench my thirst. If I fall in love with the bolt action platform, I will splurge for something fancy and modern like Tikka, or high-value collectibles like Enfield and Springfield.
The military surplus bolt-action rifles had a huge price increase recently. Even a Mosin Nagant with unknown bore quality will be bid up to $350 to $450 range. As a comparison, a $300 Remington 783 with scope can be improved to 1 or 2 MOA, shooting all kinds of ammo I could possibly want. The only use I have for a military surplus bolt action rifle is to decorate a wall, appreciate the engineering, and shoot 20 rounds on a 50 yard range once in a while. Nothing could be better than a Mauser action military rifle that started the firearms revolution. That is the reason I took the risk and went for this Yugo M48 BO.
Yesterday I got the rifle. All serial numbers match. Outside bluing is good. Chamber and bolt are shining. The bolt action and trigger action are smooth and crisp. Everything seems exceptionally good until I encounter the reason for its low price. The stock is sanded, even though the sanding is done very well, and the stock serial number is very clear. I will later ask on how to refinish the stock.
The biggest reason for the low price is the rusted and pitted bore. I cleared out a ton of rust from the bore. Later I will ask for advice on how to thoroughly remove the rust, and prevent further rust in dry and cold New England area, if that is ever possible. I did remember the bore conditions of several military surplus rifles in several local gun shops. Many rifles priced more than $400 have much more atrociously looking bores. Since the local gun shops are standing behind the safety of these rifles, I assume that it is possible for a rifle to shoot safely despite ugly looking bore. Mauser-action rifles are also famous for delivering acceptable battlefield accuracy even after being worn out very badly. However, before I go to the shooting range, I would like to ask people's opinion on safety, as well as reasonable accuracy in this condition at 50 yards. Please keep in mind that I am a newbie in shooting. With my Smith & Wesson MP 15 22 and peep sight, I can only shoot 6 MOA ( 1 minute of soda can) at 50 yards. The vendor promised to take care of this rifle if it turns out to be not shootable.


do9rnb.jpg


zx9vl0.jpg


2rwupmv.png


The crown seems OK.

ng95zt.jpg

i will warn you that often aftern removing all the years of fouling be it carbon, copper, rust, lead your bore will look much worse as you dig the crud out of the pores.
My first step when i get a nasty bore
1. Buy a few stainless brushes i like the "tornado" type.
A. Chore boy copper scruber wrapped around a old brush works well also
B. Tight fitting mop and jag.
Cleaning :
1.Remove action from stock (remove all wood)
I start with a small bocket with hot soapy water. Just good old dish soap and hot tap water. Use the mop from the chamber end. Place the muzzle into the bucket . Now push the mop down through the chsmber until the it reaches the muzzle. Now draw the mop back. It will suck soap and water p theough the bore. Get the bore good and wet. Let it sit. (You could warm the barrel with a hair drier or heat gun.)
Now with some clean soapy water flush the bore.
2. Now use the bore brush. Same method. Keep pumping warm soapy water through the bore until you basically stop getting nasty water. This can go on a long time.
3. I like foaming bore cleaners. Gun slick and break free have been working for me. Follow the instructions and do it a few times. As it starts to come clean run your brush through it several times and foam it again.
3. At this point most of the corrosive salts should be gone.
4. Now you can try a strong copper solvent like Sweets 762 and see what comes out.
Then its time to stop the rust. You can do a few things. 1. Get a rust preventative in thier. Not clp not oil but a actual rust preventative. Like the stuff steel parts are smothered in.
I have been using cortec products.
I also use VCI products to prevent rust if your going to hang it on a wall you want to use something. Also i have been using these for a while now.
Zerust ICT Tube Strips | Zerust Excor

Basically you can keep cleaning until your sick of using patches.

As for rust.
You can use one of the many rust removers like evapOrust or WD40 rust soak. WARNING they will ruin blueing.

You can also treat your very clean bore with ospho rust converter. WARNING it will ruin blueing and will turn your bore dark. Although it will stop the rust. Clean it and treat it.

You can also use electrolysis also
 
I was wondering about electrolysis. I saw a youtube where they cleaned up an old cruddy knife that was buried, and it turned out amazingly well. Anyone ever try that with a rifle or handgun?
 
I was wondering about electrolysis. I saw a youtube where they cleaned up an old cruddy knife that was buried, and it turned out amazingly well. Anyone ever try that with a rifle or handgun?
I did this for a Mauser and it came out great. Also did it for several rusty parts on an SKS. I wasn't woried about bluing as the bluing was all gone. You can just do the bore rather than the entire rifle too. There are YouTube video on that.
 
I did this for a Mauser and it came out great. Also did it for several rusty parts on an SKS. I wasn't woried about bluing as the bluing was all gone. You can just do the bore rather than the entire rifle too. There are YouTube video on that.
Proceed with caution with electrolysis. It can remove some blueing. Also make sure you get the polarity correct.
 
Depends. I have a sewer pipe bore on my polish m44 and I can get a fist sized group at 100 yards. You have to define "horrible"......for a rifle I paid $120 for it's perfectly accurate. :)
I can't stop staring at your avatar!!! Does she ever run out of ammo??:rolleyes:
 
Came here to suggest electrolysis. With a barrel that bad, I would be more concerned with the chamber and firing pin. Is the firing pin moving free or is it going to slamfire when you close the bolt? Is there any mark on a live primer when you eject a live round? Can you chamber a round, is the chamber clean enough to eject, or will you need to punch the spent casing out with a brass rod?

You would be surprised how much a hot lead round will form to the bore while it travels. It would have to be pretty much blocked by a squib to have a problem. If you're really that worried about it, take it to the range and fire it from a vice with a sting from a safe location.
 
If you even think about using phosphoric acid this is what your bore will look like after. This is a file I ment to "restore" but never got around to it. I dipped into a small can of ospho a while back. its has not began to rust again yet?
eQsouwzh.jpg
 
Today I shot my Yugo M48 BO at a range. It turned out that I overpaid for this military surplus rifle even when the price is $270, with a hard case, and shipping included.
The accuracy is 4 inch at 30 yards.

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The ammo I used is PPU Match Line 8 mm Mauser FMJ BT 200 grain / 12.96 gram.

This is really a minute of man rifle at 100 yards!
My shotgun shoots slug with a much better accuracy.
Well, I think that I have just experienced something happened on many battlefields all over the world. Full-caliber cartridges are too powerful for steel that makes most military bolt-action rifles. After a few thousands of rounds fired, rifle barrels will be worn to such extend that accuracy dropped precipitously. Sometimes, the whole army was equipped with these inaccurate rifles. They could only adopt the tactics of ambush and shooting in short distances. When the opponent found covers and started to return fire, these worn-out rifles would not have the accuracy to hit the hidden enemies even in short distance. It was time for these soldiers to throw an avalanche of grenades and launch a bayonets charge. Bayonets is another weapon that is hard to manufacture, hard to repair, and easy to break. Such armies usually did not even have enough working bayonets. That is why many soldiers of these armies will have a big sword on their backs. A bayonets charge was usually a big sword and spears charge.
 
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