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Your Knife

Bando_Red

Bando_Red

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I'm contemplating purchasing or maybe even forging my own fixed blade. I'm not really an expert on the pros and cons of different knife types, and the internet "experts" make the 9mm vs 45 ACP people look like educated scholars. I'm just wondering what you, yes YOU, use as a knife when you're in the woods hunting or fishing, hiking, camping, whatever. Why do you use/carry it instead of something else and what are key features you find important or things you find annoying. The steel, the grind, blade type, weight, handle color, whatever.

EDC cityfolks with folders feel free to weigh in too. Its more about finding out what people more experienced than myself think than what the perfect fixed blade is, I just already have some solid preferences and biases with folding knives.
 
A nice Buck 110 or 119 is perfect for any of this stuff. Case knives are high quality. Making your own equal to the quality of these will take practice and patience. Otherwise, if you have some $$$$- Randall knives are the Caddy of custom knives.
 
DONALDG-HOG said:
A nice Buck 110 or 119 is perfect for any of this stuff. Case knives are high quality. Making your own equal to the quality of these will take practice and patience. Otherwise, if you have some $$$$- Randall knives are the Caddy of custom knives.
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General Outdoor Knife - Buck 110, Buck 119, Buck Pathfinder, K-Bar.

Camping Knives - Swiss Army Knife, Plus Any of the Above, Plus Spetznaz Shovel, Gransfor Bruks Hatchet, and BAHCO Lapplander Folding Saw (Awesome saw!)

EDC Knife - Kershaw, Emmerson, Benchmade Folders, Swiss Army Knife, Leatherman Wave, Leatherman Keychain Knives

Survival Knife - Gerber LMFII, hands down the best survival knife for the dollar
 
I have an Emerson CQC7B for EDC that gets a lot of hard use and holds up great.

Also have a KaBar camp machete that cuts and splits firewood with ease.

Also have a Spyderco Stretch CF in ZDP 189 that I use to cut newspaper articles, it makes cleaner cuts than any pair of scissors I've ever owned. It also cuts raw fish better than any knife I own. It's a slicing machine.
 
Folder: SOG Stingray (with VG10 blade) is my EDC knife. I also have a William Henry folder that's partially serrated. I bought it back when they were affordable (more than a few years ago). It has titanium pieces on the handle (as the handle) and a VG10 blade I believe. Really nice folder, smooth action too.

For a fixed blade, I'd look to SOG again and get something with an AUG8 steel blade.

I've made knives in the past. While it's not too technically challenging to do the stock removal method, you do need at least a certain level of tools to do it. Forging is far more involved and takes a lot longer to get right. Most people start off with stock removal for making blades. You also need to get the steel heat treated and tempered. Then remove the discoloration caused by the process before putting the handles on it (as well as bolsters) and then make a sheath for it. It also takes a good amount of practice to get even grinds on the blade (both sides). It's not like installing an AR15 LPK here. Although you can buy some kits that all you have to do is assemble it, but that takes a lot out of the process.
 
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Randall #5, five inches. I spent my early 20s buying and using lots and lots of fixed-blade knives, and that's the best I've ever seen or used.

A basic Ka-Bar is just fine (pretty inexpensive, too), though a little bit long for trail use.

I also LOVE my Benchmade Nimravus, the old kind with the partial serrations and the non-tanto blade.
 
Honestly, most of those blade manufacturers mentioned would be considered low-end to very low-end, with a few exceptions. Though, personally, the Leatherman Skeletool has great value for what it is and size/weight.

Start at ESEE (Izula/RAT3/4) for fixed blades, but no way are they "custom". Take a look at Bark River for better quality production fixed blades. There's lots of good blades over at knivesshipfree.com, if you want to ogle. You get what you pay for.

If you wanted just one recommendation: Bark River Bravo 1 or Bravo Necker, depending on what size EDC you prefer.
 
Right now my edc is a lion steel sr1a. I also carry a small swiss army knife with me. Another small knife that I edc fairly often is a boker nano. It's little and doesn't scare off sheep.
 
I can also personally recommend bladerigs.com for some of the best and most comfortable ways to EDC a fixed blade. You might want to try one of the packaged blade/sheath sets, for an inexpensive way to get started.
 
My edc is a kershaw Leek, a cold steal recon 1 for camping, and a Leatherman for my range bag.
 
DrRansom said:
Honestly, most of those blade manufacturers mentioned would be considered low-end to very low-end, with a few exceptions. Though, personally, the Leatherman Skeletool has great value for what it is and size/weight.

Start at ESEE (Izula/RAT3/4) for fixed blades, but no way are they "custom". Take a look at Bark River for better quality production fixed blades. There's lots of good blades over at knivesshipfree.com, if you want to ogle. You get what you pay for.

If you wanted just one recommendation: Bark River Bravo 1 or Bravo Necker, depending on what size EDC you prefer.
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William Henry and SOG are NOT "low-end to very low-end". I bought the WH knife when he was still getting his name out there, at a really good rate. Extremely well made, with smooth as silk action (even more than a decade later) along with top notch materials. SOG has built a name for itself by being a great knife maker. NOT cheap in most cases, but you get a LOT for your money. I don't know, exactly, how much I paid for the Stingray folder, but I'm pretty sure it was at least $150-$200. It's a smaller knife too, at not even a 2.5" blade. Again, extremely smooth movement, without needing any adjustment and just occasional cleaning of pocket particles. I do see that they don't offer the blade anymore, which is a shame.
 
Golddiggie said:
William Henry and SOG are NOT "low-end to very low-end". I bought the WH knife when he was still getting his name out there, at a really good rate. Extremely well made, with smooth as silk action (even more than a decade later) along with top notch materials. SOG has built a name for itself by being a great knife maker. NOT cheap in most cases, but you get a LOT for your money. I don't know, exactly, how much I paid for the Stingray folder, but I'm pretty sure it was at least $150-$200. It's a smaller knife too, at not even a 2.5" blade. Again, extremely smooth movement, without needing any adjustment and just occasional cleaning of pocket particles. I do see that they don't offer the blade anymore, which is a shame.
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I don't have any hands-on experience with WH. SOG are low-end, with a few exceptions.

Example of higher-quality folders: Chris Reeve Knives: Sebenza Folder - KnivesShipFree.com
 
I'm am in the process of making a knife from an old Nicholson file. When its done I'll do a post with pictures and a full write up assuming its at least semi successful. My current everyday knife is a Buck Alpha Hunter but it was a gift after I lost my last Bench made Griptlian, which I preferred. I want to start carrying a smallish to me , around 3 3/4" blade fixed blade knife everyday in a horizontal sheath. Hopefully its my own but if my attempt or attempts fail then I will probably go with a Randal fixed blade.
 
I carry a folder so I don't scare the dog walkers & bush huggers unless on an extended hunt, then its an old Buck 119 & a folder. EDC is a Gerber ridge non-serrated which I carry my special keys on & day hunts or hikes I carry a cheap buck bantam 285 in orange. The bantam is surprisingly sharp, holds a good edge, field dresses’ birds & deer well. If I lose it no big deal $25.
 
dhawk69 said:
Serious question... What could possibly make the folding knife on the first page worth $2,500? Is it because it's a collector? Are they harder to scratch? I'm assuming they stay sharper longer at least.
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It's just the name attached to it. Also, I don't know what qualifiers DrRansom uses to call SOG 'low-end' but I don't believe it. Sure, they're not the same as one-off custom made knives that are forged and hammered by 18 year old virgin beauty queens. But they are extremely functional, durable, quality blades.

IF I ever purchase a blade that's even close to $2500 it will be something large, with high quality damascus for the blade and other more rare elements in the construction.
 
dhawk69 said:
Serious question... What could possibly make the folding knife on the first page worth $2,500? Is it because it's a collector? Are they harder to scratch? I'm assuming they stay sharper longer at least.
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The $2500 is a collector's edition of some sort. The normal Sebenza's run about $400, and comprise the standard for quality folding knives.

Blades are like anything else; quality will only be distinguished by holding different knives and by what job you intend them for. If you rarely pull the knife out, a $15 Mora will do you just fine. If you carry and use a knife every day, why short yourself? What's a extra couple hundred dollars, in the long run? Better blades will have better construction, materials, steel, balance, grind, and ergonomics. Better folders will have tighter tolerances.

Just because a knife is low-end doesn't mean that it's complete crap. I never said that. I like my 5R Rem 700, but it's not a high-end rifle by any stretch of the imagination.

Here's a better comparison, and since you asked about EDC straight blades, more relevant. I have a RAT Izula, and I bought all my brothers Bark River Bravo Neckers for Christmas the year before last.

Price - RAT $55 with sheath, no grip; Bravo Necker $79 with sheath, no grip.
Components- RAT 1095 with powder coating, BR S30V with no coating on blade, powder coat on handle.
Grind - RAT is flat ground; BR has one of the nicest convex grinds you've ever felt
Edge - RAT is sharp; BR is shaving sharp. Literally, we were shaving patches of arm hair off with no trouble at all.
Overall - Both great knives, but the BR comes out way ahead. The 1095 of the RAT is a great, hard steel, but corrodes easily if not oiled, especially around the grind and etchings. Leaving this in the sheath wet is a bad idea. Have yet to see corrosion on the BR, but I wouldn't leave that away wet either. Both blades are scary sharp and hold an edge forever; however, the BR is easier to work with in general because of the profile of the blade and the convex grind.

The Bark River is 150% the cost of the former, but well worth it. I have owned and have EDC carried both, and have used for survival applications, chopping, batoning, and skinning. I have lots of other knives of assorted brands, most of them live in a box.
 
Get a decent fixed blade, RAT or ESEE, size is a personal preference, but I would say at least 5-6". And any decent folder I prefer ZT (fits my hand, nice size, good steel) but there are a lot of good knives to choose from these days. The knife scene has really exploded.

Ask the pros: BladeForums.com
 
My EDC is a Cold Steel Hatamoto. I have been carrying it for maybe 5 years now, before that I had a Cold Steel Recon One Tanto (Carried that through college in Boston). I traded with my dad because he is left handed and it has an ambidextrous lock (discontinued now, kinda pissed about that)

I use it all the time, and carry it everywhere. I like the good heavy blade, comes in handy when I have to pry things. If I was to get another, I would look for something similar with a tool steel or similar blade. I am not a fan of stainless blades, I feel like I am constantly touching them up.

coldsteelhamato.jpg
 
jeffC said:
I carry a CAMPANION when i'm out. This monster was a creation from Kabar/Becker. The thing is sharp enough to shave with, thick enough to chop wood with, sturdy enough to stand on. I swear by this beast. Not a real evil knife either. Perfect woods/survival knife

KA-BAR Knives, Inc. - Knives > All Categories > Becker Campanion - Hardcore Lives. Hardcore Knives.
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I was thinking about getting a companion but It seemed a little too thick the more I looked at it.I like the overbuilt nature, but chopping and batoning is a secondary although important concern in knife for me, and it definitely shouldn't compromise its ability for fine work like food prep and skinning (although I always carry a pocket folder for tasks that require the utmost precision)

I've carried a mini-buck for a few years and like it just fine, but its edge-retainment leaves a lot to be desired and I believe they use that steel on all their knives so I don't think I'll be purchasing a larger one.
 
DrRansom said:
Just because a knife is low-end doesn't mean that it's complete crap. I never said that. I like my 5R Rem 700, but it's not a high-end rifle by any stretch of the imagination.
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Yep, go check out Knife Tests channel on Youtube, and you would be amazed at what some of the mass market "cheap" knives can do.
 
Get out of the production world and into customs.

You can get a custom for the same price as a decent production.

It's like buying an Ed Brown or having Greg Derr build a custom caspian from the ground up.
They both rock and will both work equally as well. So why no go with a Derr build and get exactly what you want.

Paul Letourneau is a member here and makes awesome knives for less money that some of the productions mentioned above.
Some of the production companies get a lot of hype and really they're knives suck. Busse knives are all hype and super expensive. My buddy compared the geometry of on to his pack axe. The pack axe was thinner.
Chris Reeve knives are hype too. Yeah they are "nice", but for another $150 you can have a custom from RJ Martin that you can't even compare the Reeve to.
Check out some forums and see if you can get to a local knife show to meet some guys and get some ideas.
PM me if you want to call me to discuss some stuff to look for in a blade and some suggestions on makers or companies.
Take care.
 

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