EMTDAD
NES Member
It was a joke, I'm not cereal
thought you might be Special, K?
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It was a joke, I'm not cereal
Had a squib round on my reloads followed up by regular round did not realize it. I just thought the first round was a light load. Shot the rest of the day, went home started cleaning the rifle. Realized I had ringed the barrel. $300 mistake.You could build up enough pressure between the bullets to ring the barrel. Jack.
Might get you in a bit of trouble at some gun clubs. A lot of us are also probably just going to spill powder everywhere and look like an idiot. I wouldn't attempt it at the range. It could also end up doing nothing at all. Its going to depend on how far down the squib is, how long your barrel is, the cartridge being fired, etc. Makes for a cool youtube video, and probably a good thing to know if you're ever in a situation where it is your only option in a desperate situation. But probably best to pack up and go home if you get a squib at the range with no cleaning rods available.I can see it being practical if you’re just ‘at the range’ and don’t bring cleaning rods with you, OR if you have a firearm that’s exceptionally difficult to take down and don’t want to lose parts at the range, but want to continue training for the day.
Either way, it’s an idea I had never even considered and I like how they thought outside the box to present an alternative solution.
You might be right and I very well could be in the wrong track I am thinking this thru on the fly.I would be concerned about the pressure buildup before the bullet starts to accelerate leaving a slight bulge in a barrel. I have an Beretta 92 I bought new with a bulge I can feel, but not visible at a casual glance ... and no idea how I put it there.
What if you load every other round in your magazine as a blank and that way if you get a squib it will self clear with the blank round, but you have to remember to load a snap cap cap first in case someone takes your firearm away from you, and never carry with a loaded chamber
I'd use a HSS broach that is slightly larger than the bore and force it all the way through to be sure I got ALL the squib out.what do you guys suggest for a solid cleaning rod? I tried tapping brass one once and the only thing it did was mess up the threading.
When you first fire a normal round you have static friction, inertia AND the force required to swage the bullet to conform to the rifling resulting in higher pressure than this technique produces.Too much pucker factor for me. Maybe if it was zombie times and you were in real trouble.
The primary danger is something people should remember from physics class. Static Friction + Inertia > Dynamic Friction. It takes more energy to start a bullet lodged bullet moving than it would to keep it moving. So you're going to pressure spike the barrel. And that's assuming the bullet stopped in there due to lack of energy, not an obstruction.
Pull a bullet from a round, load the bulletless round into the chamber and then fire the round to clear the squib. Seems to have worked through not sure if it's the best way to do it.
I just sacrificed a section of aluminum cleaning rod. As I mentioned before, pouring/spraying some oil in the bore can help lube the bore to make it easier for the bullet to come out.what do you guys suggest for a solid cleaning rod? I tried tapping brass one once and the only thing it did was mess up the threading.
When you first fire a normal round you have static friction, inertia AND the force required to swage the bullet to conform to the rifling resulting in higher pressure than this technique produces.
Would look way cooler if the guy pulled out the projectile with his teeth, spit it on the ground, then fired the squib with the bullet-less cartridge.Not to mention the effort/time wasted in using pliers to pull the bullet while at the range. Then try not to spill any of the powder during the process. Then load it into the gun. Jesus christ just f***ing tap it out with a rod. Don't need to reinvent the wheel
Generally you are correct. There are accuracy loads that call for slight levels of engagement with the lands, but those loads are carefully developed typically for benchrest etc. and not for any practical applications.The bullet jumps into the barrel. The neck tension and resulting friction of a brass shell casing is not even close to the friction of a swaged bullet in a barrel. When firing the round the bullet is moving before it reaches the barrel.
This is precisely why there are reloading warnings about not having OAL of your round too long and pushing the bullet up against the lands. It causes large pressure spikes.
what do you guys suggest for a solid cleaning rod? I tried tapping brass one once and the only thing it did was mess up the threading.
only if you`d pull the bullet out the round with your own teeth.Pull a bullet from a round, load the bulletless round into the chamber and then fire the round to clear the squib.
I still think the pressure is lower than firing a normal round as evidenced by the gun short stroking in the video to a point it didn't even eject the spent case. It would be interesting to find what takes more force to accomplish; swaging a bullet into the rifling or moving a bullet already engaged in the barrel.The bullet jumps into the barrel. The neck tension and resulting friction of a brass shell casing is not even close to the friction of a swaged bullet in a barrel. When firing the round the bullet is moving before it reaches the barrel.
This is precisely why there are reloading warnings about not having OAL of your round too long and pushing the bullet up against the lands. It causes large pressure spikes.
Sounds like a job for demolitionranch or kentucky ballastics lolI still think the pressure is lower than firing a normal round as evidenced by the gun short stroking in the video to a point it didn't even eject the spent case. It would be interesting to find what takes more force to accomplish; swaging a bullet into the rifling or moving a bullet already engaged in the barrel.
A press and measurement device is all that's needed. An arbor press and a pressure transducer plate or hydraulic press with a pressure gauge or force gauge would do.Sounds like a job for demolitionranch or kentucky ballastics lol
There is going to be a large increase in initial volume which will retard burn speed drastically. That pressure should get the squib to start moving so pressure shouldn't spike.The bullet jumps into the barrel. The neck tension and resulting friction of a brass shell casing is not even close to the friction of a swaged bullet in a barrel. When firing the round the bullet is moving before it reaches the barrel.
This is precisely why there are reloading warnings about not having OAL of your round too long and pushing the bullet up against the lands. It causes large pressure spikes.