Would you clear a squib this way?

mike1960

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You could build up enough pressure between the bullets to ring the barrel. Jack.
Had a squib round on my reloads followed up by regular round did not realize it. I just thought the first round was a light load. Shot the rest of the day, went home started cleaning the rifle. Realized I had ringed the barrel. $300 mistake.
 
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I can see it being practical if you’re just ‘at the range’ and don’t bring cleaning rods with you, OR if you have a firearm that’s exceptionally difficult to take down and don’t want to lose parts at the range, but want to continue training for the day.

Either way, it’s an idea I had never even considered and I like how they thought outside the box to present an alternative solution.
Might get you in a bit of trouble at some gun clubs. A lot of us are also probably just going to spill powder everywhere and look like an idiot. I wouldn't attempt it at the range. It could also end up doing nothing at all. Its going to depend on how far down the squib is, how long your barrel is, the cartridge being fired, etc. Makes for a cool youtube video, and probably a good thing to know if you're ever in a situation where it is your only option in a desperate situation. But probably best to pack up and go home if you get a squib at the range with no cleaning rods available.
 

Laderbuilt

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I would be concerned about the pressure buildup before the bullet starts to accelerate leaving a slight bulge in a barrel. I have an Beretta 92 I bought new with a bulge I can feel, but not visible at a casual glance ... and no idea how I put it there.
You might be right and I very well could be in the wrong track I am thinking this thru on the fly.
So please feel free to correct my ignorance.

I would think the psi difference would be minimal.
Here is why I think that. Let’s assume the powder charge is same as any other round so the energy is = with or without a bullet on top of the powder since the powder charge is the same this energy potential is the same.
This time the bullet is down in the barrel so there is air volume that is compressible that would normally be in front of the bullet had it been seated into the casing.
I can’t imagine that the air compressing in the chamber/barrel would be enough to cause an issue especially when you consider +p or +p+ round are out there and many guns handle that just fine. (Yes I know some firearms can not but many do)
So again I am asking for open discussion
 
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What if you load every other round in your magazine as a blank and that way if you get a squib it will self clear with the blank round, but you have to remember to load a snap cap cap first in case someone takes your firearm away from you, and never carry with a loaded chamber

This got me. #DeepNESLoreCuts from Boghog.
 

tuna

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Depends on how far into the range session I'm along - if I get a squib in the beginning of the trip, I'd probably try this. If I've shot that particular gun "enough" for the day, I'll take it home and do it right.
 
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Too much pucker factor for me. Maybe if it was zombie times and you were in real trouble.

The primary danger is something people should remember from physics class. Static Friction + Inertia > Dynamic Friction. It takes more energy to start a bullet lodged bullet moving than it would to keep it moving. So you're going to pressure spike the barrel. And that's assuming the bullet stopped in there due to lack of energy, not an obstruction.
 

Sweeney

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what do you guys suggest for a solid cleaning rod? I tried tapping brass one once and the only thing it did was mess up the threading.
I'd use a HSS broach that is slightly larger than the bore and force it all the way through to be sure I got ALL the squib out.

...or a brass rod slightly smaller than the bore so it doesn't bend.
 

enbloc

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If it happens at the range... you have time to clear it properly.
If it happens in combat... you now have a bludgeoning device.

I don't want to be "that" guy killed while pulling a projo out of a round to attempt a dislodge...

Besides... Ka-Bars need loving too... 😍

1669749998386.png
 

Sweeney

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Too much pucker factor for me. Maybe if it was zombie times and you were in real trouble.

The primary danger is something people should remember from physics class. Static Friction + Inertia > Dynamic Friction. It takes more energy to start a bullet lodged bullet moving than it would to keep it moving. So you're going to pressure spike the barrel. And that's assuming the bullet stopped in there due to lack of energy, not an obstruction.
When you first fire a normal round you have static friction, inertia AND the force required to swage the bullet to conform to the rifling resulting in higher pressure than this technique produces.
 

Rockrivr1

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I've never felt comfortable using a metal or brass rod to clear a squib. I had one squib years ago and I used a wooden dowel to pound it out. Worked great and didn't worry about scarring the barrel, lands or grooves.
 

mac1911

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Pull a bullet from a round, load the bulletless round into the chamber and then fire the round to clear the squib. Seems to have worked through not sure if it's the best way to do it.


I see this as a in the field teal world shit and not having your gun is a problem.
Squibs are not wedged in there as tight as you might think.
The pressure is going to be lower than a round with a seated bullet.
I have dis lodged bullets with compressed air.
The problem generally is someone pounds the bullet and expands it in the bore before it begins to move.
 

DW357

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what do you guys suggest for a solid cleaning rod? I tried tapping brass one once and the only thing it did was mess up the threading.
I just sacrificed a section of aluminum cleaning rod. As I mentioned before, pouring/spraying some oil in the bore can help lube the bore to make it easier for the bullet to come out.
I used a wooden dowel for my first squib without using oil and I broke the dowel.

But they make brass and hard polymer squib rods
 
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When you first fire a normal round you have static friction, inertia AND the force required to swage the bullet to conform to the rifling resulting in higher pressure than this technique produces.

The bullet jumps into the barrel. The neck tension and resulting friction of a brass shell casing is not even close to the friction of a swaged bullet in a barrel. When firing the round the bullet is moving before it reaches the barrel.

This is precisely why there are reloading warnings about not having OAL of your round too long and pushing the bullet up against the lands. It causes large pressure spikes.
 

Mountain

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Not to mention the effort/time wasted in using pliers to pull the bullet while at the range. Then try not to spill any of the powder during the process. Then load it into the gun. Jesus christ just f***ing tap it out with a rod. Don't need to reinvent the wheel
Would look way cooler if the guy pulled out the projectile with his teeth, spit it on the ground, then fired the squib with the bullet-less cartridge.

Mrs. Mountain will punch me for using the R-word, but that's a pretty retarded video. If anyone tried that near me they'd get the big GTFO.
 

Mountain

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The bullet jumps into the barrel. The neck tension and resulting friction of a brass shell casing is not even close to the friction of a swaged bullet in a barrel. When firing the round the bullet is moving before it reaches the barrel.

This is precisely why there are reloading warnings about not having OAL of your round too long and pushing the bullet up against the lands. It causes large pressure spikes.
Generally you are correct. There are accuracy loads that call for slight levels of engagement with the lands, but those loads are carefully developed typically for benchrest etc. and not for any practical applications.
 
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what do you guys suggest for a solid cleaning rod? I tried tapping brass one once and the only thing it did was mess up the threading.

I would suggest brass. I didn't realize brass could scratch a steel barrel during this procedure. You should also be dumping a whole bunch of oil in there too.
 

Sweeney

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The bullet jumps into the barrel. The neck tension and resulting friction of a brass shell casing is not even close to the friction of a swaged bullet in a barrel. When firing the round the bullet is moving before it reaches the barrel.

This is precisely why there are reloading warnings about not having OAL of your round too long and pushing the bullet up against the lands. It causes large pressure spikes.
I still think the pressure is lower than firing a normal round as evidenced by the gun short stroking in the video to a point it didn't even eject the spent case. It would be interesting to find what takes more force to accomplish; swaging a bullet into the rifling or moving a bullet already engaged in the barrel.
 

DW357

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I still think the pressure is lower than firing a normal round as evidenced by the gun short stroking in the video to a point it didn't even eject the spent case. It would be interesting to find what takes more force to accomplish; swaging a bullet into the rifling or moving a bullet already engaged in the barrel.
Sounds like a job for demolitionranch or kentucky ballastics lol
 

pastera

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The bullet jumps into the barrel. The neck tension and resulting friction of a brass shell casing is not even close to the friction of a swaged bullet in a barrel. When firing the round the bullet is moving before it reaches the barrel.

This is precisely why there are reloading warnings about not having OAL of your round too long and pushing the bullet up against the lands. It causes large pressure spikes.
There is going to be a large increase in initial volume which will retard burn speed drastically. That pressure should get the squib to start moving so pressure shouldn't spike.
However there is also the idea of detonation where the pressure wave reflects at the stoppage and travels back to the slowly burning charge. Once the wave hits the smoldering charge it compresses it causing a detonation instead of a clean burn.
Light charges of some slow rifle powders are supposed to be susceptible to this in large bottleneck cartridges.
 
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You guys don't carry a chopstick to the range to clear squibs/confirm clear tubes? Hear a pathetic poof of a bang, or feel something off, jam, etc, lock back the slide and rather than stare down the barrel, just push thru the wooden stick to confirm clear.
 

mcb

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Consider the source, that presenter might be 1% more credible than Jason Blaha but that’s generous.

From Greg Tambone Bio

Little is known about his life, livelihood, or whereabouts from 2005-2010. What we do know is that he traveled a lot, worked as some type of bodyguard/private security contractor, fought in various kickboxing organizations (ISKA/IKF), and had a brief rodeo career.

🤣
 

Mountain

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For clearing rifle squibs and unfired cartridges that don't eject, cleaning rods (coated, carbon fiber, other non-steel) work fine. Be sure to have a jag screwed into the end of the rod or you could mash the threaded end of the rod- don't ask how I know that...
 
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