Winchester safe not opening..

je25ff

je25ff

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I have a Winchester safe with the newer? LP lock that won't open and it seems the code is accepted, but I never hear the sound of the lock disengaging. I've swapped a handful of known to be good 9 volts in but no joy. Just wondering if anyone has had a similar problem and what they did about it. I suppose replace the front keypad assembly?

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Have you made sure the ribbon wire is completely connected? I've had that happen. The biggest issue I've had is the new 9volts weren't strong enough. But once I went with the major brands it would work. I hope this makes sense
 
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je25ff said:
I have a Winchester safe with the newer? LP lock that won't open and it seems the code is accepted, but I never hear the sound of the lock disengaging. I've swapped a handful of known to be good 9 volts in but no joy. Just wondering if anyone has had a similar problem and what they did about it. I suppose replace the front keypad assembly?

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Try it multiple times while applying light to medium pressure to the handle clockwise and then counterclockwise.

Sometimes the latch mechanism applying too much friction to the lock stopping it from swinging out of the way.
 
pastera said:
Try it multiple times while applying light to medium pressure to the handle clockwise and then counterclockwise.

Sometimes the latch mechanism applying too much friction to the lock stopping it from swinging out of the way.
Click to expand...

I have also seen “jiggling” the handle work on safes with a regular handle.

You should be able to hear the solenoid buzz if it is energized.
 
pastera said:
Try it multiple times while applying light to medium pressure to the handle clockwise and then counterclockwise.

Sometimes the latch mechanism applying too much friction to the lock stopping it from swinging out of the way.
Click to expand...
The term is 'bolt side pressure' (or end pressure) and even when it works allowing the bold to rub on the mechanism when retracting increases wear on gears that are frequently made of plastic.
Another technique is to try a new keypad and if that does not work find a tech who has a Taylor Instruments Phoenix.
 
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je25ff said:
I have a Winchester safe with the newer? LP lock that won't open and it seems the code is accepted, but I never hear the sound of the lock disengaging. I've swapped a handful of known to be good 9 volts in but no joy. Just wondering if anyone has had a similar problem and what they did about it. I suppose replace the front keypad assembly?

View attachment 899075
Click to expand...
 
Had the same problem few years back. it seems the small PCB boards die after awhile. Switched combo lock no issues. Did you have a backup key?
 
pastera said:
applying light to medium pressure to the handle
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i would try to smack the handle with a rubber mallet at the center, reasonably well, as the vibration may release the stuck solenoid.

those doors need to be opened more often that you`ve done it, that is all. my cheap $200 cabinet opens with a simply key and never gets stuck. just saying. :)
 
buckhunter said:
Had the same problem few years back. it seems the small PCB boards die after awhile. Switched combo lock no issues. Did you have a backup key?
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As best I am aware, there is no backup key or any kind. It's just electronic push button.
paul73 said:
i would try to smack the handle with a rubber mallet at the center, reasonably well, as the vibration may release the stuck solenoid.

those doors need to be opened more often that you`ve done it, that is all. my cheap $200 cabinet opens with a simply key and never gets stuck. just saying. :)
Click to expand...

I tried smacking it with a mallet, put in a handful of brand new 9 volts, but all it does is beep twice (OK passcode) and then a high pitched whine and nada. I'll post a video of it when I get that sorted.

I'm going to call Winchester next week and see what they can do.
 
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Rob Boudrie said:
The term is 'bolt side pressure' (or end pressure) and even when it works allowing the bold to rub on the mechanism when retracting increases wear on gears that are frequently made of plastic.
Another technique is to try a new keypad and if that does not work find a tech who has a Taylor Instruments Phoenix.
Click to expand...

Why would you recommend a phoenix? He knows the combo and it would be no different than another keypad, which is cheaper than a locksmith visit
 
67ray said:
Why would you recommend a phoenix? He knows the combo and it would be no different than another keypad, which is cheaper than a locksmith visit
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I believe the Phoneix has some other diag/service options, like longer time of actuation - but I am not certain. It may be a waste of time.
 
I
67ray said:
Why would you recommend a phoenix? He knows the combo and it would be no different than another keypad, which is cheaper than a locksmith visit
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I would definitely try a new keypad before a a locksmith.

But as I said above , and @paul73 said, if it is whining the solenoid is trying to retract the bolt so vibration is your friend. The more the merrier, but it has to be applied during that 60 second period WHILE the solenoid is actively trying to pull the locking mechanism back. Whack it on the door where you know the locking mechanisms are and spin that hand.e to retract the dogs.

I converted an old safe to an electronic keypad for a friend and it is pretty straightforward but you gotta get it opened first.
 
I’ve seen plenty of "known good" and "brand new" 9V batteries be anything but acceptable. 9V batteries go bad very quick and can even go bad on the store shelves. Go to a high volume store such as Walmart, buy from the highest volume battery rack in the store. Get about six or seven of them. Also try the lithium like others have said. Before you do anything else, make sure you do this. I was almost ready to drill a hole in my door before I made one more attempt with the lithium 9V and it worked.
 
je25ff said:
I have a Winchester safe with the newer? LP lock that won't open and it seems the code is accepted, but I never hear the sound of the lock disengaging. I've swapped a handful of known to be good 9 volts in but no joy. Just wondering if anyone has had a similar problem and what they did about it. I suppose replace the front keypad assembly?

View attachment 899075
Click to expand...
C4? A burning bar? A laser cutter?
 
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