Why use a certain type of bullet?

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What is the benefit of choosing one type of bullet over another?

I'm planning to make my first large (10k) purchase of .45ACP bullets. Prior to now I've ordered a couple small lots, and naturally I purchasd 230 GR FMJ because that's what I had been shooting prior to buying my reloading equipment. At the time I didn't hesitate over the price, because the $27/1000 difference between FMJ and lead RN didn't add up to much, and I was focusing on learning to reload rather than pinching my pennies. However, at 10k rounds, that's a $270 difference, something to stop and think about.

I shoot an XD45 and a couple 1911s. This ammo will all be for range use, training, and maybe IDPA, if I can ever get to a practice.

My options are:
230 GR FMJ
185 GR lead SWC ($32 less per 1000)
230 GR lead RN ($27 less)
185 GR JHP ($10 more)
230 GR JHP ($15 more)

Given my circumstances, what are the pros and cons of:

Lead vs. Jacketed?

What about SWC vs. Round Nose?

Is there any added value to using JHP?


Thanks for the help, guys!


disclaimer - yes, I tried to use the advanced search feature, but wasn't able to find exactly what I was looking for. The thing is a pain in the ass.
 
Lead can get in the grooves. You can shoot a clip of Jacketed after 50 rounds of lead to clean it out. The copper for the FMJ gets in the grooves and is harder to clean out.

SWC makes a better hole in paper.

I see no added value, for practice, in using JHP.

I shoot both 200gr TC and 230gr RN in lead and some RN in Jacketed.

With a 1911, both will take care of me.

With low power loads, under 1000fps lead works fine and is more cost effective of a lot of range time. $270 will buy a lot of primers and powder.
 
Given my circumstances, what are the pros and cons of:

Lead vs. Jacketed?

What about SWC vs. Round Nose?

Is there any added value to using JHP?

Here's my take...

Lead is cheaper than jacketed but can also be dirtier and can lead your barrel(s). When you buy a lead bullet, you're at the mercy of the person that cast it. Too hard/soft/big/small and you can get leading and accuracy problems. Ask Tele_mark about the lead .40 cal bullets he had problems with. They weighed what they were supposed to weigh, and were the diameter they were supposed to be but they were horrendously inaccurate, and leaded up the barrel instantly.

Depending on the profile, lead SWC bullets may not reliably feed through some guns. I had trouble with these until I learned that you have to load them long.

The only benefit I can think of for JHP bullets is if they approximate the profile of the bullets in your self defense rounds, you can shoot them to ensure the reliability of those bullets in your gun. Maybe they're better for pin or silhouette shooting - I don't know because I don't shoot those.

I've been having great luck with poly (not moly) coated bullets for the .45 ACP. I've been using 230gr RN from the source that I'm about to PM you with great success. They shoot as reliably and as accurately as FMJ through all of my .45's (1911, 4506, 625, and Tommy Gun). Many thanks to Scrivener for turning me on to these.
 
+1 on the Poly. I use Masterblaster bullets. Zero leading.

I would say there are three major categories that .45 bullets vary in.
1. Weight
2. Profile (JHP, FMJ, SWC etc.)
3. Composition (Plated, jacketed, lead etc.)

Different weight bullets loaded to the same power factor will have different perceived recoil and they perform differently downrange in terms of penetration and knocking steel down. They also shoot to a different POI and may shoot slightly flatter and may require less lead on a moving target. In .45 people generally say that heavier bullets have lower perceived recoil. You also pay slightly less for lighter bullets. Heavier bullets also knock steel down a little more consistently although this is not important in .45 unless you are shooting pins.

Profile is all about what type of hole you are going to make in the target. Wadcutter make a clean hole and round nose and hollow point make a less clean hole. Some people think hollow points are more accurate. I don't have a large number of .45s, but between the H&G 68 design and the H&G 78 design you can get a wad cutter that will feed in your guns. The H&G 78 design in particular feeds incredibly well when loaded as long as possible and the bullets come out of the gun without the usual dent. It is smoother then ball in my 1911s. The ogive when loaded that way is very similar to ball and I can see why it might perform so well.

Regarding composition. Plated bullets have zero leading and deposits but people say they aren't as accurate. Jacketed bullets have zero leading and zero deposits but they are expensive and require a little more powder. Lead bullets will lead if the barrel is rough or abused during cleaning or if the bullets are of poor quality. I use poly coated lead bullets and they are fantastic and leave no deposit in the barrel other than lube which is a good thing. Lead bullets smoke a bit though how much depends on a large number of factors. Sizing lead bullets to match the bore has not been an issue for me in 9MM and .45.
 
I'm pretty sure that most bullseye shooters use SWC. I've been using NE Bullets in 185gr SWC and I like them alot. Not very dirty, pretty uniform, and hit where I want them to. I get 1000 for about 54-56 bucks.
 
I use a poly 200 - 210 grain RNFP. These are far cleaner than lead, significantly cheaper than jacketed, or even plated, and work in both my autos and revolvers. If you don't use moonclips or speedloaders, a 185 or 200 grain SWC will be fine, assuming your guns will feed them reliably. Experiment with COAL if you get jams.
 
I'll give you my take too.

For me it depends on what I am shooting. IPSC, steel, bowling pins, paper/practice

IPSC- I use 180gr JHP in.40 for matches and 180 gr RN copper plated (cheaper but not as consistent and accurate for me) for practice.

Bowling pins- 45 acp 230gr JHP or FMJ open back

Steel plates or paper - all copper plated- 158gr RN 38 Spec, 155 gr FP in 40, 124 gr RN in 9mm, or 200 gr RN in 45acp

I find the copper plating is a "slightly" cheaper way to shoot a lot and not have to deal with leading, smoke & exposure when I do not need to push the bullets fast. I have found plated bullets to not be very accurate when they run over 800-900 fps. They seem to be pretty good at lower power factors.

It is my preference not to shoot lead.

Hope this helps.
 
Plated bullets are a great overall value... less than FMJ, accurate for most handgun shooting and no exposed lead.
 
My experience has shown that jacketed bullets are the most accurate with hard cast lead a close second and plated a poor third. I shoot mostly hard cast lead in practice because these bullets are the least expensive that will perform adequately. Most of my competition is IPSC and plated bullets are adequate for this type of shooting. If accuracy was important, I would use jacketed.

Bullet profile is important as it is a major factor in reliability; some guns just won't feed SWCs. For match shooting where reliability is a major concern, I prefer round nose bullets as nothing feeds better.

Bullet weight is another concern; lighter bullets are cheaper (lead is expensive). I have found that in an uncompensated gun lighter bullets produce more muzzle flip and felt recoil. Heavier isn't necessarily better, however. I have found that the 200 gr bullet in .45 performs just as well as the 230 and that the 180 gr bullet in .40 performs just as well as the heavier bullets. Percieved recoil and muzzle flip is very subjective; you really have to try the various bullet weights yourself.
 
What is the benefit of choosing one type of bullet over another?
.....

Given my circumstances, what are the pros and cons of:

Lead vs. Jacketed?

What about SWC vs. Round Nose?

Is there any added value to using JHP?...

Lead bullets are usually less expensive than jacketed. If they are good quality, of proper hardness, well lubed and sized just a little bigger than your bore, they will work perfectly, accurately, and with no leading of the barrel. I have shot tens of thousands of lead bullets through my 1911 with no problems. Lead bullets, even fairly hard ones, are softer than the jacketed type and will cause less wear to the bore and a longer barrel life. The lube used on cast lead bullets may make the gun a little more dirty than a jacketd bullet would, but normal cleaning will take care of that.

Another option might be either copper electroplated or polymer coated lead bullets. These types are often as cost effective as cast lead bullets and as clean and reliable as FMJRN types.

SWC bullets will cut a nice clean and full diameter hole in your target and are easier to score than round nose, which tear a small jagged hole in the target. SWCs do not always feed reliably in every gun and may need to have the COL tweeked longer to function reliably. Most semi auto pistols are designed to work well with FMJ RN bullets. You may have to polish your feed ramp or slightly modify your magazines for maximum reliability with SWC bullets.

Many sizes of bullets, both cast and jacketed, are available in the "TC" (truncated cone) style. This style of bullet tends to feed more reliably than SWCs, but still has a fairly large diameter flat point that will cut a small clean hole in the target.

JHP bullets are only needed to enhance bullet expansion for personal protection or hunting. They may not feed as reliably as FMJ RNs.

The best plan is to buy a small quantity of the type of bullet that you are considering and try some test loads for reliabilty. I'm sure that most of the folks here would be glad to give you a few bullets to try before you make a major purchase.
 
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