JonathonEmergency
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By far the funniest comment I’ve read here in a long time.
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What oil do you use for your guns? Is 3 in 1 any good?
- Thread starter MassachussettsMosinNagant
- Start date
kerryman71
NES Member
Cell phone
Marty McFly
NES Member
First rule of lube club
No, I use "new leftover" oil from my Harley oil changes, I buy a gallon, my Harley needs a little over 3.5 qts. The leftover oil lubes my guns. I do use Mobil 1 grease in a few circumstances but mostly the oil.
Marty McFly
NES Member
Oh ok. Just wondering. Thanks
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Lol. It's all good. Lucas X-Heavy Grease on some bolt/op-rod/receiver parts; Ed's Red lightly wiped on metal exteriors (then rubbed in) and an almost dry patch with a little on it through the bore.
Been working great for me for over a decade...
Here's a good writeup... Greasing the M1 Garand
JDL
NES Member
A number of years ago I attended an Armorer's class at S&W there were a few guys from the FBI and NYC CSI that would test crime guns at the NYC crime lab. They always talked about the guns they tested smelled like fryed chicken grease.
Fanucman
NES Member
I use Break-Free CLP on all metal parts of guns. It is a widely respected medium oil, seems to lube and protect well and (it claims) also cleans as a bonus. Reasonably priced and easy to obtain.
On critical surfaces of pistols (slide rails, contact points on barrel, etc.), I use Wilson Ultima-Lube grease. Nothing magic about that brand, I just figured Wilson would know how to lube a pistol.
I used to use thin oil (Rem Oil) on on everything, but I learned two lessons the hard way:
1. Thin oil dries quickly when you practice shooting and your pistol gets hot. Insufficient lube on a pistol slide rail will cause malfunctions.
2. When you concealed carry, your pistol stays warm in your holster. Most oil will slowly drain out over days/weeks.
Grease stays put, but you can only use it where the fit is loose.
Learn from my pain: Be suspicious of any lube with an odor.
"Smell" means your nose is detecting particles of the substance in the air. Particles in the air means at least some of the lube is drying.
I once used a bottle of no-name "gun lube & protect" (which I stupidly got from a store discount bin) on some rifles, then stowed them in the safe. The lube had a strong petroleum smell, but I thought nothing of it.
A year later, I discovered all of those guns had this nasty hard "tar" wherever I had lubed (which was on all metal). I spent many, many hours working in a thin oil (Rem Oil, used it like a solvent) to get that crap off.
Years later, I STILL find that &%@!%$! "lube" hardened in nooks and crannies when I clean those guns.![[crying]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/006.gif "Crying [crying]")
On critical surfaces of pistols (slide rails, contact points on barrel, etc.), I use Wilson Ultima-Lube grease. Nothing magic about that brand, I just figured Wilson would know how to lube a pistol.
I used to use thin oil (Rem Oil) on on everything, but I learned two lessons the hard way:
1. Thin oil dries quickly when you practice shooting and your pistol gets hot. Insufficient lube on a pistol slide rail will cause malfunctions.
2. When you concealed carry, your pistol stays warm in your holster. Most oil will slowly drain out over days/weeks.
Grease stays put, but you can only use it where the fit is loose.
Learn from my pain: Be suspicious of any lube with an odor.
"Smell" means your nose is detecting particles of the substance in the air. Particles in the air means at least some of the lube is drying.
I once used a bottle of no-name "gun lube & protect" (which I stupidly got from a store discount bin) on some rifles, then stowed them in the safe. The lube had a strong petroleum smell, but I thought nothing of it.
A year later, I discovered all of those guns had this nasty hard "tar" wherever I had lubed (which was on all metal). I spent many, many hours working in a thin oil (Rem Oil, used it like a solvent) to get that crap off.
Years later, I STILL find that &%@!%$! "lube" hardened in nooks and crannies when I clean those guns.
People still use that garbage?
There are some “oils” that are meant for storage, i have some stuff that smells like cosmoline, i put it on metal thsts going to sit for a long while. It gets to a hard waxy state over timeI use Break-Free CLP on all metal parts of guns. It is a widely respected medium oil, seems to lube and protect well and (it claims) also cleans as a bonus. Reasonably priced and easy to obtain.
On critical surfaces of pistols (slide rails, contact points on barrel, etc.), I use Wilson Ultima-Lube grease. Nothing magic about that brand, I just figured Wilson would know how to lube a pistol.
I used to use thin oil (Rem Oil) on on everything, but I learned two lessons the hard way:
1. Thin oil dries quickly when you practice shooting and your pistol gets hot. Insufficient lube on a pistol slide rail will cause malfunctions.
2. When you concealed carry, your pistol stays warm in your holster. Most oil will slowly drain out over days/weeks.
Grease stays put, but you can only use it where the fit is loose.
Learn from my pain: Be suspicious of any lube with an odor.
"Smell" means your nose is detecting particles of the substance in the air. Particles in the air means at least some of the lube is drying.
I once used a bottle of no-name "gun lube & protect" (which I stupidly got from a store discount bin) on some rifles, then stowed them in the safe. The lube had a strong petroleum smell, but I thought nothing of it.
A year later, I discovered all of those guns had this nasty hard "tar" wherever I had lubed (which was on all metal). I spent many, many hours working in a thin oil (Rem Oil, used it like a solvent) to get that crap off.
Years later, I STILL find that &%@!%$! "lube" hardened in nooks and crannies when I clean those guns.
Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared | Day At The Range
By: DIY_guy We all want to use goods quality products on our guns, bows, fishing gear, knives, autos, hunting and lake front gear and like you I?m not a fan of letting things get rust on them nor am I a fan of items wearing out prematurely. To protect my investment in gear, I began
www.dayattherange.com
Maybe you're confusing froglube with fireclean.
kerryman71
NES Member
Hmmm, I think I see what you're doing here.
kerryman71
NES Member
Damn you enbloc!!
Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared | Day At The Range
By: DIY_guy We all want to use goods quality products on our guns, bows, fishing gear, knives, autos, hunting and lake front gear and like you I?m not a fan of letting things get rust on them nor am I a fan of items wearing out prematurely. To protect my investment in gear, I began
Maybe you're confusing froglube with fireclean.
Its best use is as a personal lubricant during Beat Your D!ck December.
Mesatchornug
NES Member
Stoner did the same. I think he technically also argued that carbon is a dry lube...
Mesatchornug
NES Member
You're (basically) never wrong in that... Also, at least with the AR, there was a treatment spec change from his original design such that oil became necessary in most conditions.
Big Duke Six
NES Member
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