What is your method for record keeping?

[38ExtraSpecial]

I always use the black and white speckled composition books.
I try to write down as much info as I can
Brass head stamp or mixed
bullet
alloy if cast
size if cast
lube or coating if cast
powder and charge weight
OAL
primer
also I like to write down what the source for the data was and if I had to extrapolate or use load data to get info on the charge. Say like using a Lyman 453423 (240grain) in place of a Lyman 454424 (250 grain) making notes on the bullet seating depth (combustion chamber) and bullet weight. In this case a lighter bullet with the same amount of bullet in the case so it's a safe bet to use the data.

The I'll leave room at the bottom of notes and results after range trips. Filling the pages in between with stuff that I noticed such as S&B brass sucks due to tight primers or thinner case necks on certain brands of 30/30 brass.

I don't write down every batch of 38s I make because it's mostly the Lyman 358156 cast out of the same alloy with the same lube, powder charge and primer. I know it works and its been noted in the book so I won't bother writing down every batch I make.

In order to sort that all out and label all of my loads I use the load data stickers that come with the MTM boxes and leave the notes in with the loaded ammo so I don't mix up different loads that look the same visually. Dropping the label in the box so I don't have a sticker mess on the box.

What is your method for keeping records and keeping all the reloads sorted out?

 

[xtry51]

I use a comp book as well. I typically ladder load new powders and shoot in groups, in ascending charge order (5-10 rounds each) until I see a primer flowing. I then look at groups and pick the tightest one for rifles and the highest acceptable recoil for pistols.

I record in the book the bullet weight, primer and charge weight along with what load level I flowed a primer. That's it. If it's a rifle load I will chrono the final one I pick and record it.

I don't record brass type*. I also don't record length because I only load ammo to spec standard length. I.e. .223 is 2.240-2.260 to make sure it all fits in mags for any gun

*I have a 77gr .223 long distance load I segregate brass for. Currently Star.

 

[headednorth]

Pretty much the same, right down to the type of notebook. Small enough that I can toss it in the range bag to make notes as I shoot groups. Ill typically use index cards to record info on and ill just fold it and put it in the plastic case if Im working up a new load. If its an existing load Ill use blue painters tape on the box/jar (I tend to use peanut butter jars for bulk stuff like 9mm and 38) Ill also note the date and the press it was loaded on. Typically use mixed brass for both rifle and pistol so thats one thing I dont tend to keep track of.

I do have a separate comp book for rifle and pistol but have been wanting to switch to a 3 ring binder because different loads for the same caliber are dispersed throughout rather than being grouped together.

One thing I dont really do a good job of is keeping track of how many times rifle brass has been fired and keeping them segregated. I feel like Id have a thousand separate containers so I just kind of have it all mixed which makes me think it will bite me on the ass someday.

 

[xtry51]

I mix brass for training ammo the only issue is loose primers in semi-auto rifle. Sometimes a primer will pop out during ejection and cause a jam. In AR15s this for some reason 90% of the time is the primer finding it's way into the barrel lugs preventing the bolt from seating. The old mortar clear will get you back in action.

Now it should be noted if you hand prime (which I do) you can feel these cases when you seat the primer. I of course just load them anyway because I don't mind training through malfunctions. But if it concerned you, just discard the brass you feel the primer slide into with no resistance when hand priming. I doubt you'd ever have an issue that way as the trouble ones are super easy to feel.

 

[northny]

I am just opposite of your approach. I use loose leaf three ring binders. I file all my reloading info information under the rifle or pistol used, both load development and range and hunting results

Some rifles that are shot a lot have their own binders. Some just have a section in a single binder. Most target rifles have their own binder, most hunting rifles are in one binder.

For each range session I have a template I use for recording the performance of each loading. It has all the load info so I could duplicate the load. I record results as I shoot. Then template is inserted into the appropriate binder when back home. Quite often I also cut and paste targets into binder.

This works for me when I decide to shoot a rifle I haven't had out in a while. Pull binder and I can see where I left off last time. What load I was shooting and how it was performing. Any thought on what I would do next.

Example: Two days ago I decided I was going to take the 45-70 deer hunting this fall. I saw it hasn't been out to range in six years. Records showed me exactly what I was using for a load and how it was performing and how it was sighted in (3" high at 100 yards). I also had a note that I should replace old weaver K4 scope.

I also get to see patterns emerge, sometimes over years. I know that my .270 Win has had the same POI for 7 years. I haven't touched the sights in that time. I also know that while the first two shots are where they should be but shots 3-5 always climb up and right as featherweight barrel moves poi with heat. I don't even try five shot groups

I have a 308 Model 70 featherweight that always goes to camp as a back up rifle if someone needs a loaner (either a new hunter or someone has a problem with their rifle. ) Six different people have killed a deer with it, that info recorded next to the load data used. The odd thing is no one has every killed a second deer with it although several have tried.

On the rare occasion I sell or swop a rifle (usually to a relative) the binder of load data goes with it.

 

[38ExtraSpecial]

This works for me when I decide to shoot a rifle I haven't had out in a while. Pull binder and I can see where I left off last time. What load I was shooting and how it was performing. Any thought on what I would do next.

I really like that idea. I've been to the range with rifle and for the life of me couldn't remember where I had it sighted in last. I usually go for 200 yards because that's where the steel is at my club but I often reach out to the 500 and have sometimes dialed up instead of holding over mils. The same could be used for irons on lever guns and such. Note that my 148 grain wadcutters in 38 are hitting spot on at 50 yards with the 3rd step of the elevator which coincides with the 200 yard hold for a 357 with a 158 SWC.
It's all good when it's fresh in you're head and you're shooting it weekly but move on from that rifle and what you knew like the back of your hand quickly fades.

 

[mac1911]

I used to keep better notes
Now I basically just use luggage tags on my rifles with load and sight settings/zeros

I dont play around to much with load development these says. I get some info from rhe older guys and get into that “known” good range of performance and usually find a good load quickly.

I did just pick up some 5744 so I will add that to my notes.

 

[Uzi2]

Ziplock bags and a Sharpie.

 

[greencobra]

i use little 3.5x5 inch notebooks, one for each caliber i load for loading notes. i keep a larger size one with each gun for range notes...performance with specific loadings, round count, stuff like that.

 

[Fritz the Cat]

I did the composition book for a while in an attempt to improve on what my dad used, the 3 ring binder (his was 5 rings from the 60s?)
I liked the compact nature of the comp books, easy to take to the range, looks nice on the shelf. What I ended up not liking was not being able to change the layout or add pages. Sometimes I give up on a powder/boolit combo and then want to revisit it again with a different rifle so I want the new notes on the new rifle next to the old notes. Easy with a 3 ring. Sloppy with the comp book. And I like sorting by powder, alphabetically. Adding Accurate LT-32 after months of Reloader 17 trials means I can keep my system in order.

 

[76Too]

Anything would be better than my current method of loose paper thrown on the floor in my basement.

One of many shooting related things I need to get a handle on sooner than later.

Definitely keeping an eye on this thread for ideas.

 

[xtry51]

One thing I do while loading is I write down the powder, caliber, bullet weight and primer on a small index card and I put it INSIDE the powder drop with the powder. That way if I come back a long time later I know exactly what I was doing last with that setup.

 

[jek]

I setup a spreadsheet in excel and print copies for each caliber I load. These all go into a 3-ring binder with separators for each caliber. The spreadsheet has the date of loads, all the components info, critical dimensions, load data and where I got it. I also have a column for comments for whatever I want to capture.

I tweak the sheet whenever I want to add something more.

 

[headednorth]

One thing I do while loading is I write down the powder, caliber, bullet weight and primer on a small index card and I put it INSIDE the powder drop with the powder. That way if I come back a long time later I know exactly what I was doing last with that setup.

I do something similar with painters tape on the outside of the powder drop

 

[Fritz the Cat]

I do something similar with painters tape on the outside of the powder drop

Masking tape for me.

 

[whacko]

I seperate all my brass into
Loaded
Unloaded

Coffee cans labeled on the lid with load data.

 

[whacko]

Ziplock bags and a Sharpie.

I graduated to Folgers coffee cans....

 

[mac1911]

One thing I do while loading is I write down the powder, caliber, bullet weight and primer on a small index card and I put it INSIDE the powder drop with the powder. That way if I come back a long time later I know exactly what I was doing last with that setup.

This is my only constant , when I had a old timer teach me a few things when I started he drilled this into my head the most.
Keep all powder away from the reloader. Only take out the powder needed. Drop a label in the powder hop.