What is your "Long Range" Rifle Platform?

[paul73]

I wonder if MPA makes their own br kit cause most of seen aren’t 3d printed but are machined polymer.

The only reliable way to check to make sure your formed is to disassemble bolt. Many (including myself for a long time) will take a once fired piece measure than bump .002 right, well even factory chambered brass isn’t usually formed to your chamber in one firing so therefore it’s very easy to start bumping WAY too much overworking your brass both sizing and firing. Now take a wildcat in which your changing shoulder angle and location along with brass spring back you can kinda see where I’m going. It only takes a few minutes to remove ejector and FC to check.

yeah, i will do a bolt check. just deprimed all that brass, and measured the shoulders - all of them measure up to the same exact size of 1.290".
there was one more with a crack in the shoulder, so, i got 99 cases formed well out of 101.

 

[slipknot]

i ordered an mdt one, will see when it comes. one they shipped the gun with is a metal accurate-mag with .308 stamped on it. they inserted a BR/dasher usual kit with a 3d printed follower, meh.
brass seems like got formed pretty well - shoulders look good, but i will check it again.

i formed it, like i said, with a 30gr varget, and will measure next time what speed will it give me, as i had multiple rounds go through same hole at 100 - so it was a good sign, i think.

i also going to try 32gr and 32.5gr. i would agree 100% the 2850fps seems like a reasonable goal, getting to 2975 is probably not going to alter anything much enough to justify the increased barrel wear.

i was thinking to setup the chrono today, but it was so damn hot and i was tired after work party, so just finished zeroing scope and shooting it, and went home.

Primal Rights kit works the best for me. It works better than my MDT and both those work better than my Patriot Valley Arms kits. Both kits are 3D printed, the MDT is not.

I am at 2850 with 31.1 Gr of Varget and a 105 hybrid for my dasher. 5 shots many groups at 3/8 MOA, I am pleased. 1575 rounds thru it still plenty to go.

I don't think you should bother with load development until your barrel speeds up, probably after 100 rds at least.
I just chose a speed and stuck them about 50,000 off the lands. Recently did a test for seating depths and it doesn't even matter so I kept it the same. Dasher is easy.

Good luck and enjoy it, looks like a nice rifle. Glad to hear it shoots well.

 

[Rate_of_Twist]

no response from MPA. i guess it sums it all.
do not repeat other people's mistakes.

Bottom line, what makes a company isn’t how they treat you when thing go right, it’s what they do when things go wrong. No excuse for that.

 

[paul73]

Bottom line, what makes a company isn’t how they treat you when thing go right, it’s what they do when things go wrong. No excuse for that.

kinda, dunno, i sent them complaint on tuesday - so unlikely they did not see it.
with that being said - it is still a decent value rifle for what it is, compared to alternatives. to build something like that from a scratch would cost more.
there are other builders, of course, MPA is not the only one out there.

i will look online to swap out that chassis cheek riser with a leather one, if i will find one anywhere. the foam/rubber they have there is not that great.

 

[LuvDog]

Lots of people add these

Mini Stock Pad | WieBad Gear

wiebad.com

 

[paul73]

Lots of people add these

Mini Stock Pad | WieBad Gear

wiebad.com

i want something almost precisely like that, but ideally in a thick brown leather. i think i saw it before somewhere, but cannot find now. pity.

 

[Broc]

so, it shoots amazing. thanks to the weight and the brake there is almost no recoil to talk about, it is really, well, not like shooting a .22lr, but damn close. there is no muzzle jump to talk about, i fire formed 100 cases - taking my time and trying not to heat up barrel above 50 deg C. one case had neck rapture, all the rest came up great.
so, so far it`s very nice. i was shooting 6BR brass in 30gr varget at .030" jammed into lands - and even with that after proper adjustment i was hitting same bullet holes repeatedly. hope proper loads will do great as well, going to test it all in 0.005" offsets from lands to 0.040" from lands.

the magazine they supplied with the gun sucks. it has a 3d printed follower, and it is not pushing rounds up reliably. i will need to sort this up somehow.

I have a few questions...

What happens if the barrel gets above 50C?

And why use C and not F? Are you a commie?

Also, why fire form, you dont resize?

I thought fire forming was only for BPCR shooting.

All world champs resize their brass.

 

[Gidge]

.22 LR

 

[PatMcD]

I have a few questions...

What happens if the barrel gets above 50C?

And why use C and not F? Are you a commie?

Also, why fire form, you dont resize?

I thought fire forming was only for BPCR shooting.

All world champs resize their brass.

Some case can ONLY be made through fire-forming because the shoulder is pushed out further than the parent case. Or, it's way more economical to fire-form a parent cartridge than it is to wait for a special run of an exotic case.

 

[paul73]

I have a few questions...

What happens if the barrel gets above 50C?

And why use C and not F? Are you a commie?

Also, why fire form, you dont resize?

I thought fire forming was only for BPCR shooting.

All world champs resize their brass.

It is a brand new barrel - I was breaking it up that day as well. 50-55C is just a safe zone to be at. Temp sticker has F numbers as well, but I never memorized it.

6 Dasher brass has to be fireformed as donor brass was a 6 BR. A rather tedious process but most still state it is the best way to proceed to get best fitted brass for your chamber. Peterson and lapua do have now premade 6 dasher brass, but it is sold out everywhere. So before any resizing it needs to be formed.

 

[Broc]

It is a brand new barrel - I was breaking it up that day as well. 50-55C is just a safe zone to be at. Temp sticker has F numbers as well, but I never memorized it.

6 Dasher brass has to be fireformed as donor brass was a 6 BR. A rather tedious process but most still state it is the best way to proceed to get best fitted brass for your chamber. Peterson and lapua do have now premade 6 dasher brass, but it is sold out everywhere. So before any resizing it needs to be formed.

Interesting. I learned something new.

 

[Mesatchornug]

It is a brand new barrel - I was breaking it up that day as well. 50-55C is just a safe zone to be at. Temp sticker has F numbers as well, but I never memorized it.

When you say "Temp sticker" do you mean there was a sticker on the barrel that gave a recommended safe temperature range during break in? Were you using something like this, with a higher range, for barrel break in?

 

[paul73]

When you say "Temp sticker" do you mean there was a sticker on the barrel that gave a recommended safe temperature range during break in? Were you using something like this, with a higher range, for barrel break in?

it is this:

Amazon product ASIN B01FVOQL84View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FVOQL84


it is not a precise science - but a 'safe' warm barrel zone is from 45 to 55 somewhat. or - 113F-131F.
about 55C+ you cannot hold the barrel anymore - so it is considered 'hot'. for an older broken in barrel with at least 500 rounds through it - it would not matter that much, but to get a brand new barrel and shoot 300 rounds through it non stop getting it above 100C - would be rather stupid.

sticker also helps you to see where barrel`s at, as some barrels start to move POI a bit as it gets warmer - my 20" larue is doing it.

 

[Mesatchornug]

it is this:
View attachment 619044
Amazon product ASIN B01FVOQL84View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FVOQL84


it is not a precise science - but a 'safe' warm barrel zone is from 45 to 55 somewhat. or - 113F-131F.
about 55C+ you cannot hold the barrel anymore - so it is considered 'hot'. for an older broken in barrel with at least 500 rounds through it - it would not matter that much, but to get a brand new barrel and shoot 300 rounds through it non stop getting it above 100C - would be rather stupid.

sticker also helps you to see where barrel`s at, as some barrels start to move POI a bit as it gets warmer - my 20" larue is doing it.

cool! Waiting on your reply, I started to look further on my own and found similar comments about folks buying them off McMaster. Do you just leave it installed for the life of the barrel?

 

[paul73]

cool! Waiting on your reply, I started to look further on my own and found similar comments about folks buying them off McMaster. Do you just leave it installed for the life of the barrel?

why to remove it? this new 6 dasher rifle got it right from the maker - on my others i have it from the amazon - labels differ a bit, but, it is not critical, and even if label lies 10deg or so - also not that critical.
it is just a visualizer of what most check by just touching the barrel by hand. either way works. sticker makes it simpler. especially if you wear gloves - do not need to take them off to see where the barrel is temperature wise. a lot of overheat on a rifle you want to keep precise for as long as you can is not good. it is just something that will help you to keep that subMOA barrel to be subMOA a bit longer, and/or adjust for a moving POI as it heats up.

PS. i personally do not believe the break-in procedures matter that much - but the overheat issue is real. you want steel to get used to stress gradually. on a new barrel i always run a patch and then brass brush after the first shot, then after next 3 shots, then after next 5 shots, and that is it. just keep good pace while shooting it - in the proper temp zone and it will be just fine.

 

[Mudflap621]

View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UKL6LhlG6EM

 

[paul73]

View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UKL6LhlG6EM

yesterday i got to a 55C after may be 15-17 rounds in. it took a long while to run a whole 100 pieces fireforming maintaining reasonable temp.
will definitely wait next time for a way colder morning to do a next 100 rounds forming.

PS. just got myself 8 boxes of 105gr berger hybrids from powder valley, quite a race as usual.

 

[DW357]

View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UKL6LhlG6EM

Pretty cool stuff.
Wonder what the ammo bill was

 

[45BPCR]

1874 Shiloh Sharps w/MVA 6X scope chambered in 45-70
1885 Browning Creedmoor chambered in 45-90

Sometimes when I'm down in PA we fool around trying to shoot "Homer" off hand.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpxPglKkFvQ

 

[AHM]

i personally do not believe the break-in procedures matter that much - but the overheat issue is real. you want steel to get used to stress gradually. on a new barrel i always run a patch and then brass brush after the first shot, then after next 3 shots, then after next 5 shots, and that is it. just keep good pace while shooting it - in the proper temp zone and it will be just fine.

So you're trying to let the barrel's steel develop a "home registration point".

 

[paul73]

So you're trying to let the barrel's steel develop a "home registration point".

"wait at least 5 minutes between break-in shots" - that is quite a bullshit. or, well, for those who are retired and are on infinite (to them) time - sure, why not.
but it is pointless. you just want barrel warm, but not hot, that is all.

with a good quality barrel it is really all not that important. with a shitty barrel first several passes of the patch and brush can be somewhat more important to avoid scratches and rifling damage.

i was actually surprised to see that MPA rig was not shot when it came to me, barrel and action were virgin. bergara LRP was test fired and barrel had powder residue.

 

[cathouse01]

"wait at least 5 minutes between break-in shots" - that is quite a bullshit. or, well, for those who are retired and are on infinite (to them) time - sure, why not.
but it is pointless. you just want barrel warm, but not hot, that is all.

with a good quality barrel it is really all not that important. with a shitty barrel first several passes of the patch and brush can be somewhat more important to avoid scratches and rifling damage.

i was actually surprised to see that MPA rig was not shot when it came to me, barrel and action were virgin. bergara LRP was test fired and barrel had powder residue.

How does the MPA compare to your Bergara?

 

[paul73]

How does the MPA compare to your Bergara?

very different rigs. bergara is 13lbs, this MPA is 17.4lbs. barrel looks like twice beefier in diameter on MPA. heats up way slower. cools down slower too, but it is easier to keep it as same temp.

i have 3 port break on the lrp, and this new one has a very aggressive 4 port brake, and overall it all makes recoil subdued to the minimum.
recoil is the most obvious practical difference - and that is probably resolvable on the bergara - but bergara after the shot jumps up way more and it makes it way more difficult to see the point of impact - not an issue with this rifle at all. you see perfectly where bullet hits when it hits.

with this gun it, well, gun after shots pretty much remains stationary, just like if it was a .22lr. it kicks more, of course, but, a lot less than 6.5CM.
i can see now why folks like shooting this dasher vs 6.5CM.

i cannot say yet if i like this MPA chassis more than XLR, as i am used to XLR. bag rider is almost horizontal, it is not that great, does not help much. cheek riser - same, feels alien so far.

the scope i have on it now - the arken ep5 - looks like not the best fit neither. by design it is a bit shorter in mid section, and i had to move it all the way back pressed into rear ring and it is still not ideally placed. on XLR i could just move stock on the tube - with MPA you cannot shorten it, it is what it is for a min LOP.

it will do for now, i will see to it after i get both rigs to 300 with proper developed loads.

 

[paul73]

MPA responded with an apology - saying they were out of the office last week and will ship buttpad/riser parts. I hope they will.
By now the frustration had burned over anyway, but, still nice to see they responded.

 

[MC56]

MPA responded with an apology - saying they were out of the office last week and will ship buttpad/riser parts. I hope they will.
By now the frustration had burned over anyway, but, still nice to see they responded.

MPA is a good company and I would be very surprised if they left you hanging. Those rifles are an incredible value.

 

[paul73]

MPA is a good company and I would be very surprised if they left you hanging. Those rifles are an incredible value.

i really like the one i got. i think at this price point it got most of the features they put on their top tier matrix $3900 ones - real diff is the action, but, it is unclear to me if that curtis valor is that much more superior than the one i got, and if it is really worth the price delta of $1400.

MPA BA PMR Pro Rifle II - MasterPiece Arms, Inc.

Masterpiece Arms builds World Class Rifles. We start with our industry leading Chassis System, utilize the Best Actions and Triggers produced, and a 416R SS Handlapped Barrels provide some the best shooting, most accurate rifles in existence. Designed, Built and Enhanced by Long Range Shooters...

masterpiecearms.com

MPA Matrix/Matrix Pro Rifle - MasterPiece Arms, Inc.

Masterpiece Arms builds World Class Rifles. We start with our industry leading Chassis System, utilize the Best Actions and Triggers produced, and our MPA/Spencer 416R Handlapped Barrels provide some the best shooting, most accurate rifles in existence. Designed, Built and Enhanced by Long Range...

masterpiecearms.com

 

[MC56]

i really like the one i got. i think at this price point it got most of the features they put on their top tier matrix $3900 ones - real diff is the action, but, it is unclear to me for what level that curtis valor is that much more superior than the one i got, and if it is really worth the price delta of $1400.

MPA BA PMR Pro Rifle II - MasterPiece Arms, Inc.

Masterpiece Arms builds World Class Rifles. We start with our industry leading Chassis System, utilize the Best Actions and Triggers produced, and a 416R SS Handlapped Barrels provide some the best shooting, most accurate rifles in existence. Designed, Built and Enhanced by Long Range Shooters...

masterpiecearms.com

MPA Matrix/Matrix Pro Rifle - MasterPiece Arms, Inc.

Masterpiece Arms builds World Class Rifles. We start with our industry leading Chassis System, utilize the Best Actions and Triggers produced, and our MPA/Spencer 416R Handlapped Barrels provide some the best shooting, most accurate rifles in existence. Designed, Built and Enhanced by Long Range...

masterpiecearms.com

Choice of action, matrix chassis, diamond trigger, probably better QC on the barrels, etc. That said, for $3900 I'd rather order it piece by piece and build it exactly the way I want.

 

[paul73]

Choice of action, matrix chassis, diamond trigger, probably better QC on the barrels, etc. That said, for $3900 I'd rather order it piece by piece and build it exactly the way I want.

from what i did read on snipershide the barrel i have is the same one they would put on a matrix. just with no options for any customizations.
and a diamond trigger is also there.
but i agree - if one would spec a custom ultimate build from parts - it would sum to to that $3600-$4200 level.
and i want to believe - the $2500 PMR 2 rig is not that much worse that those builds.

 

[MC56]

from what i did read on snipershide the barrel i have is the same one they would put on a matrix. just with no options for any customizations.
and a diamond trigger is also there.
but i agree - if one would spec a custom ultimate build from parts - it would sum to to that $3600-$4200 level.
and i want to believe - the $2500 PMR 2 rig is not that much worse that those builds.

It's not, and if you like the BA Comp chassis then it's a no brainer.

 

[cathouse01]

I always have to check myself and ask: “Given my shooting ability, will the xtra X dollars really make any difference?”. In my case, the answer is almost always “No, it won’t.” So I go ahead and buy it anyway.