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What did you do in the reloading room recently?

First batch of 300BLK went to the range yesterday. Minor issues on FTF and stovepipe.
It's the gun not the loads as I used factory ammo as a control group with same issues on that.
Reloads were 220 grn Berry's over 10.8 grns and 12.6 grns og IMR 4198. COL @2.230.
Sub and just over sonic.
Ran just OK and cycled the bolt mostly. Probably short stroking.
I'll shorten the OAL a bit.
I didn't deburr the cases and on further review there's a bit on the case rim that should get removed in my newb opinion.

Comment, suggestions, ridicule?
 
First batch of 12ga. Don't mind the crimp holes. It took me a while to figure it out.

20gr Win. Super Handicap, 1oz #8 shot, with fiocchi 616 primers. Hodgdon site called for 617 primers, but I didn't realize it. Hopefully I don't blow up.

I'll shoot some in my pump gun and then run some through the beretta. Trying to make a trap load.
 

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First batch of 300BLK went to the range yesterday. Minor issues on FTF and stovepipe.
It's the gun not the loads as I used factory ammo as a control group with same issues on that.
Reloads were 220 grn Berry's over 10.8 grns and 12.6 grns og IMR 4198. COL @2.230.
Sub and just over sonic.
Ran just OK and cycled the bolt mostly. Probably short stroking.
I'll shorten the OAL a bit.
I didn't deburr the cases and on further review there's a bit on the case rim that should get removed in my newb opinion.

Comment, suggestions, ridicule?
Shoot a single round at a time. See if she locks the bolt back or not.
Adjustable gas block?
On your reloads are you converting 5.56 or using 300 blackout brass?
What buffer?
 
Trying to replicate 5.56 SS109 Here's what I Got

Lake City Brass
62 Gr. FMJBT
25.5 Gr. Shooters World Tactical Rifle
CCI #41 Primer
Col. 2.260

16" Radical Arms Barrel

2989
3048
3053
3039
3013

Avg. 3028 Fps.

20" DTI CL Barrel

3251
3180
3160
3154
3148

Avg. 3179 Fps.

All cases show no pressure signs. Going to load up some more to shoot for accuracy at 100 and 200 yds. then make some adjustments as necessary
 
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Loaded some .43 Spanish with a paper patched bullet. It takes a bit of trial and error to find the right diameter to shoot well and still not be too large in diameter to load easily into the case. I think I'm there. The bullet is a Lyman 439186 sized to .427 with 2 wraps of printer paper and the charge is 23 grains of AA5744. I haven't tried a mold specifically for paper patched bullets but according to "The Paper Jacket" it doesn't matter.
 
Loaded some .43 Spanish with a paper patched bullet. It takes a bit of trial and error to find the right diameter to shoot well and still not be too large in diameter to load easily into the case. I think I'm there. The bullet is a Lyman 439186 sized to .427 with 2 wraps of printer paper and the charge is 23 grains of AA5744. I haven't tried a mold specifically for paper patched bullets but according to "The Paper Jacket" it doesn't matter.
Let us know how they shoot. My PP shoot as well as my GG. Not like I’m a marksman or anything but I think if I messed up it would be a shotgun pattern.
Damn now I need to load some PP. maybe it’s time I work up a load for the sharps
 
Shoot a single round at a time. See if she locks the bolt back or not.
Adjustable gas block?
On your reloads are you converting 5.56 or using 300 blackout brass?
What buffer?
11-1/2" barrel pistol AR.
This one is all PSA upper and lower. Fin brace. Full gas.
No mods. Carbine spring and buffer.

I started with one, then two rounds of each flavor. Then five.

Surefeed aluminum and Magpul poly mags.

The COL is really long in those mags.
Brass is reconditioned factory 300BLK. Different headstamps but trimmed to a consistent length.
I'll have to see if I can hunt up some factory subs and compare lengths.

Guess a chronograph would help but budget is busted right now.

This was all a " can you do this and have it go bang" as opposed to dialing it in for a specific gun.
Next build is a 16" in 300Blk.
Already have most of the parts for that. Try some round specific mags and see if it makes a difference in reliability as well.
 
11-1/2" barrel pistol AR.
This one is all PSA upper and lower. Fin brace. Full gas.
No mods. Carbine spring and buffer.

I started with one, then two rounds of each flavor. Then five.

Surefeed aluminum and Magpul poly mags.

The COL is really long in those mags.
Brass is reconditioned factory 300BLK. Different headstamps but trimmed to a consistent length.
I'll have to see if I can hunt up some factory subs and compare lengths.

Guess a chronograph would help but budget is busted right now.

This was all a " can you do this and have it go bang" as opposed to dialing it in for a specific gun.
Next build is a 16" in 300Blk.
Already have most of the parts for that. Try some round specific mags and see if it makes a difference in reliability as well.
Mess with different powders too. Of course you want it to run with a lot of different loads and not to be too finicky. I really liked CFE BLK.
 
First batch of 300BLK went to the range yesterday. Minor issues on FTF and stovepipe.
It's the gun not the loads as I used factory ammo as a control group with same issues on that.
Reloads were 220 grn Berry's over 10.8 grns and 12.6 grns og IMR 4198. COL @2.230.
Sub and just over sonic.
Ran just OK and cycled the bolt mostly. Probably short stroking.
I'll shorten the OAL a bit.
I didn't deburr the cases and on further review there's a bit on the case rim that should get removed in my newb opinion.

Comment, suggestions, ridicule?
I think it's your powder choice. I'm pretty sure your getting short stroking causing the stovepiping. 300BLK subsonic work gets very fussy with powder burn speed and pressure. Pretty much the goto powder for 200+ gr subs is AA1680 . What's your gas length system ? I'm running pistol length gas system on my 16" carbine rifle as I only really shoot suppressed subs. Last question are you running a true dedicated 300BLK mag ? I tried stuffing 220 gr subs into a standard 556 mag and the rounds were rubbing and causing feeding resistence and FTF's . Here's a screenshot of my testing.

Screenshot (12).png
 
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Finally got around to building shelves and storage out in the garage out of pallets/ 8ft skids.
Fun times. Need another half dozen
Found some buried treasure.
Looks some some 180 gas checked .358's which I think were from Captain Spangler.
A set of dies I bought off of Len when he was moving
A 325 round box of federal .22 someone gave me.
2 boxes of 255 gr .452's
2 boxes of 180 gr .358's. Both from Missouri Bullet Co.
Half a box of 9mm ammo.
Half a box of .40 ammo
Picks, reamers, bore brushes, stones and a sear jig. Grips, holsters, bits of green f.o. rod.
A shit-ton of junk loaded .38 spl (undersized 170's from Black Bullets). I'll have to pull all those.
Handfull of .45's missing primers.
1 Broken lead thermometer.
It was like christmas, but not the "dads too drunk to get out of bed" christmas. The o.k. kind where you get jumper cables and $100.
 
Mess with different powders too. Of course you want it to run with a lot of different loads and not to be too finicky. I really liked CFE BLK.

I couldn't find any CFE BLK when I ordered the 4198.
Probably would have been my first choice for obvious reasons.
Different powders are not a problem if I can find them.
I can go higher on the charge weight up to a point on the 220s as well.
Just plinking ammo.

No I haven't tried dedicated mags yet. I put like a hundred or two rounds through it when I built it. Both sub and super factory ammo in .556 mags.
The only issues I had mag related were from a Hexmag I bought at a gun show. It promptly went in the trash.
I will get som 300BLK mags tho.

Thanks for the chart Road_Clam
I think it's your powder choice. I'm pretty sure your getting short stroking causing the stovepiping. 300BLK subsonic work gets very fussy with powder burn speed and pressure. Pretty much the goto powder for 200+ gr subs is AA1680 . What's your gas length system ? I'm running pistol length gas system on my 16" carbine rifle as I only really shoot suppressed subs. Last question are you running a true dedicated 300BLK mag ? I tried stuffing 220 gr subs into a standard 556 mag and the rounds were rubbing and causing feeding resistence and FTF's . Here's a screenshot of my testing.

View attachment 634099
 
I couldn't find any CFE BLK when I ordered the 4198.
Probably would have been my first choice for obvious reasons.
Different powders are not a problem if I can find them.
I can go higher on the charge weight up to a point on the 220s as well.
Just plinking ammo.

No I haven't tried dedicated mags yet. I put like a hundred or two rounds through it when I built it. Both sub and super factory ammo in .556 mags.
The only issues I had mag related were from a Hexmag I bought at a gun show. It promptly went in the trash.
I will get som 300BLK mags tho.

Thanks for the chart Road_Clam
I would first try a Magpul dedicated 300BLK mag and see if that stops the stovepiping easy change and don't have to try a different powder. . It's possible 4198 will work with subs. Try only one change at a time so you know if gained positive progress. Good luck hope you get your rig running. My 300BLK franken build is a super reliable subsonic cycler (once I figured out the 556 mag feeding issue ) my stealthy 300blk NV rabbit sniper stick

IMG_20220705_212959971.jpg
 
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I couldn't find any CFE BLK when I ordered the 4198.
Probably would have been my first choice for obvious reasons.
Different powders are not a problem if I can find them.
I can go higher on the charge weight up to a point on the 220s as well.
Just plinking ammo.

No I haven't tried dedicated mags yet. I put like a hundred or two rounds through it when I built it. Both sub and super factory ammo in .556 mags.
The only issues I had mag related were from a Hexmag I bought at a gun show. It promptly went in the trash.
I will get som 300BLK mags tho.

Thanks for the chart Road_Clam
Monadnock Firearms has one #8 jug of CFE BLK available. You can order online and pick up in store or have it shipped.
 
I couldn't find any CFE BLK when I ordered the 4198.
Probably would have been my first choice for obvious reasons.
Different powders are not a problem if I can find them.
I can go higher on the charge weight up to a point on the 220s as well.
Just plinking ammo.

No I haven't tried dedicated mags yet. I put like a hundred or two rounds through it when I built it. Both sub and super factory ammo in .556 mags.
The only issues I had mag related were from a Hexmag I bought at a gun show. It promptly went in the trash.
I will get som 300BLK mags tho.

Thanks for the chart Road_Clam
I had mag issues with subs also because they’re pretty fat up in the area where the neck of the 5.56 case should be. Make sure you’re not getting stuck in that area at all.
 
Just finished a batch of 38 special using 4.7gr HP-38 and berry’s 158gr Flat point thick plate bullets; and then swapped my press to the 9mm setup. Still need to wash about a 5 gal bucket full of 9mm casings but that should last me well into next year. Hopefully. Here’s my setup:
 

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and i had an apocalyptic flies infestation today - not clear how, where from, why, but it was a swarm of probably 20-30 of those things within 2 hours. coming from somewhere in the ceiling of the basement, i finally opened up a window there so they all eventually left, and now there it no more.
go figure.

may be something died - as i recently added new rats poison in some spots. but it was pretty odd, and not clear where from they were coming. big, fatty specimens, fully adult ones.
spooky.
:)

and reloading - meh, an 80 6 dasher, will do a 100 of 308 and need to start processing big box of 2-3 K of .223 i keep postponing.
 
What order does every one process .223/5.56? I’ve been doing decap/size, swage, trim, then prime, but I’ve noticed the swagging rod/die will mess with the neck/shoulder.

Should I decap, swage, size, then trim?
Weldon bit works better than swage, at least I think so.


View: https://youtu.be/24QOPAOnHRs
 
Weldon bit works better than swage, at least I think so.


View: https://youtu.be/24QOPAOnHRs

I use the Lee APP press, the thing can move faster than I can. I have to consciously slow down. And the whole thing (Press $80 + swage kit $40) was $120 or so. I hooked it up to my case feeder and I just keep pulling the handle. Edit: Prices


 
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