EddieZoom
NES Member
Cranked out a quick 300 9mm early this morning to keep feeding my Canik TP9SFX.
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What did you do in the reloading room recently?
- Thread starter DW357
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nstassel
NES Member
I got 2000 Summit City 200 swc .45 and loaded 500 over 5.1 g WST. Summit has completed two orders of these in May and I'm still waiting for the order from Ibejiheads I placed in April.
Leezway
NES Member
Well if it’s any consolation, I just received my ibejiheads order on Monday… and I ordered it at the end of April… seems like they might be starting to catch up…. Because the prior order took more than 3 months to get.
Awesome. Glad those summit city bullets worked out.
nstassel
NES Member
That's a great company thanks for giving me that tip.
xtry51
NES Member
I finally polished off all my 115gr 9mm. Topped of a 2k can.
Just swapped press over to 147gr Berry's Flat Point. Going with 1.100 OAL and 3.4gr Titegroup. Middle of the recommended load from Hodgdon using their listed OAL for a 147gr JHP which has roughly the same nose profile.
Just swapped press over to 147gr Berry's Flat Point. Going with 1.100 OAL and 3.4gr Titegroup. Middle of the recommended load from Hodgdon using their listed OAL for a 147gr JHP which has roughly the same nose profile.
ProGun
NES Member
Tried out a Redding profile crimp die for 44 magnum...not that I needed it, just because. Anyway, I understand this is a taper and roll crimp combination. I didn't get carried away turning the die in, but do these look okay for crimp? Seems harder to say by sight, compared to the Lee FCD.
You have a very modest roll crimp, but most cannelures are not very deep and don't allow much room for an aggressive roll crimp without compressing the bullet or case.
If you roll crimp on a cast bullet with a sizable groove, you'll really see the crimp.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Hard to tell.
If I need a good crimp on jacketed bullets I like the Lee collet style crimp die. That sucker pinches it in tight right where it needs to be and nowhere else.
PL-52
NES Member
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Can you put a factory loaded .44mag next to one of your loads and see any reasonable differce?
PL-52
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Maybe I'm just a little too over cautious, When I shoot lots of my own reloads I usually take a box or even a handful of factory loads to the range with me , just to compare with the loads I make. See if it's too stout or too limp . Or just plain sucky. Hasn't really proved anything yet so i guess I'm right in the middle of where I should be.
nstassel
NES Member
Took this picture because.
nstassel
NES Member
Yeah good call.
PL-52
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Still in use by a few Armies around the world. From Wikipedia
- Brazil: 16,880 received, mostly between 1937 and 1941.[56] The Brazilian Army uses a version of the M1911 developed by IMBEL chambered in 9×19mm Parabellum and designated
- Bolivia[61][62]
- Colombia[61][62]
- Costa Rica[61][62]
- Dominican Republic[61][62]
- East Timor[63]
- Egypt[62] used by both Sa'ka Forces and Unit 777
- Ecuador[62]
- Fiji[61]
- Georgia: Used by Police Special Forces.[64]
- Guatemala[62][65]
- Haiti[61][62]
- Indonesia[65]
- Iran[61][65]
-
Liberia[61]
- Lithuania: Lithuanian Armed Forces[66][67]
- Malaysia: In service with PGK special forces of the Royal Malaysian Police[68]
- Mexico:[61][62][65] 5,400
- North Korea: Local copies used by North Korean Special forces and Presidential Guard.[69]
- Philippines[61]
- Papua New Guinea[70]
- Republic of China (Taiwan)[61]
- Spain[71][page needed]
- South Korea:
Turkey[72]
- United States: Former standard-issue service pistol of the U.S. Armed forces and is in use by some US Special Operations soldiers. The pistol remains in service with various law enforcement agencies across the U.S]
- Vietnam: Local copies chambered in 7.62×25mm Tokarev & Captured US M1911A1s in .45 ACP
ProGun
NES Member
I actually don't have any factory loads in 44 magnum at the moment! So much cheaper to just handload!
xtry51
NES Member
400 of the 147s done so far.
Shot 150 rounds of my 145 gr Acme bullet loads (3.2 gr of sport pistol powder) today and when I got home I almost shit when I saw the amount of lead towards the end of the barrel in my CZ SP-01 Shadow
Lewis lead remover ain’t working either which is annoying
Got some Hoppes bore cleaner soaking in it now. Accuracy was good surprisingly.
After further examination of my rounds it looks like I was scraping the coating off on some. I thought I expanded the cases enough but maybe not.
I pulled some of the rounds that didn’t have slivers of lead at the mouth and they seemed okay. might just have to pull all of the ones with lead slivers.
Lewis lead remover ain’t working either which is annoying
Got some Hoppes bore cleaner soaking in it now. Accuracy was good surprisingly.
After further examination of my rounds it looks like I was scraping the coating off on some. I thought I expanded the cases enough but maybe not.
I pulled some of the rounds that didn’t have slivers of lead at the mouth and they seemed okay. might just have to pull all of the ones with lead slivers.
Maybe Kroil would work better? Let it soak overnight. I think I used that to clean lead out of my Dan Wesson 22 barrel.
PL-52
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Hoppe's Lead Remover Brass Patches 10PK
Designed to remove lead fouling from revolvers and breech-loading firearms. Excellent for cleaning cylinder chambers and forcing cones. Replacement...
www.midwayusa.com
Hoppe's Foaming Bore Cleaner - 3oz
<p>Quickly and effortlessly dissolves and removes copper and powder residue. Its superior cleaning formula does the work for you, no brushing or other mechanical cleaning necessary.</p><ul><li>One-Step</li><li>No Harsh Scrubbing</li><li>Color Change Effectiveness Indicator</li></ul>
www.sportsmans.com
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38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Shavings will lead to serious leading real fast! Those little bits iron right in.Shot 150 rounds of my 145 gr Acme bullet loads (3.2 gr of sport pistol powder) today and when I got home I almost shit when I saw the amount of lead towards the end of the barrel in my CZ SP-01 Shadow
View attachment 494201
Lewis lead remover ain’t working either which is annoying
Got some Hoppes bore cleaner soaking in it now. Accuracy was good surprisingly.
After further examination of my rounds it looks like I was scraping the coating off on some. I thought I expanded the cases enough but maybe not.
View attachment 494198View attachment 494199
I pulled some of the rounds that didn’t have slivers of lead at the mouth and they seemed okay. might just have to pull all of the ones with lead slivers.
View attachment 494200
If you have some mercury on hand plug the barrel and pop a little in there. Plug the other end and shake it around. The lead will fall right out.
The crimp might be a little tight too. Seems it’s leaving a touch of an imprint on the bullet.
Yeah they are not coming out. What a pain.
I don’t think I have any mercury laying around lol. At my previous job I could have stolen some that we had for testing/calibrating a Mercury vapor analyzer….
It’s possible the crimp could be too tight. Though the die settings work fine with my blue Bullets. But the blues are 0.355" and the Acme’s are 0.355"
Funny I didn’t run into this with the 0.356" Eggleston munitions bullets. One difference is the Acmes were loaded with all nickel plated brass. I wonder if the casewalls are thicker or something?
Quite_Exasperated
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Like Maxine said…” ‘peach (of a) foty figh”. Rock on!
Shit that aint leading.....
Lol yeah it could be worse. Would shooting some jacketed rounds help dislodge the lead?
With the Area 7 USPSA championship on Saturday I probably shouldn’t go too crazy and risk damaging the barrel somehow. Accuracy was very good (only shooting out to 40 feet).
NHCraigT
NES Member
That would make a good "Happy St. Patrick's Day!" NES meme
Artie
NES Member
Pure copper Chore Boy works surprisingly well on leading. Wrap some of it around your bore brush and run it with your bore solvent. Chunks of lead just fall out. Make sure you get the pure copper and not the coated plastic or steel. Good luck
Amazon product ASIN B0779D9BSGView: https://www.amazon.com/Chore-Boy-Copper-Scouring-Count/dp/B0779D9BSG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=Chore+Boy&qid=1624237366&sr=8-4
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Alloy can play into how the crimp works out. Some manufacturers run softer alloys figuring that the coating will make up for it. In a lot of cases it does.
I’m also wondering if the coating is softer. I’m worked with powder coated bullets before and that stuff can be super soft. You can scrape it off with your fingernail. The hi-tek is hard as woodpecker lips.
I have some mercury from some old thermostats that comes in handy when I have bad lead issues. Snag it when you see it!
Artie is spot in with the copper chore boy. Make sure the relay copper and not plated steel (magnet test) wrap that around a brush and get at it.
