38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Ahhh there’s your problem. It’s too red. Get something blue and reliable and time tested to fit the your 30-30 that can claim all of those things short of being blue.
-
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
What did you do in the reloading room recently?
- Thread starter DW357
- Start date
headednorth
NES Member
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2012
- Messages
- 26,669
- Likes
- 49,202
Nicks/burrs on the rim maybe?
Yeah I forgot about your previous post. I’m loading them at 2.55 with some a hair over that. 2.55" is the maximum length according to my Hornady manual so I may be too long. Maybe seat to the top of the cannelure as you do. I’ll make some up this week to try out.
Possibly. I should have examined them more closely when I was reloading. I was getting lazy...
Though what is very strange is that I inserted all of the fired cases into the shell holder and not one got hung up in the shell holder
Maybe after firing, the rims smooth out a bit?
@andrew1220 I've loaded a lot of 30-30 for both my Win94 and Marlin 1936 and I never had one fail to go off the first time. I think you need to seat your primers deeper, they need to be deeper to seat the anvil as I recall. Also, I loaded the bullets to the top of the cannelure. No feeding or chambering issues.
Dug into the bullet stash and put together some 357 magnum 100 yard thumpers for the 6" S&W 586.
Starline brass once fired, trimmed to 1.285", CCI500, 13.4 grains (thrown light then trickled up) of 2400, 1.585" OAL.
Going off Alliant data of 14.5g of 2400 and a 170 grain GDSP running 1166 fps, I'd started off with these using 13.6g, and was a little surprised to see them going over the chrono at 1333 fps average with sticky extraction and kind of brisk recoil. They were awesome, but I figured I should lighten it up.
Dialed it back to 13.3g and that ran 1209 fps average with good extraction. Going up a tenth to see how it goes. Went a little crazy, loaded 50. This is not quite a compressed load. If I shake a round I can hear the powder move around just a little bit. I think this bullet is now an obsolete part number, so I should have the load all figured out right as I run out.
View attachment 428280
Those are fun.
I made some 180's with 4227. They were stout. Had a nice kick to em.
You will run into issues sometimes.
How long is that bulletDug into the bullet stash and put together some 357 magnum 100 yard thumpers for the 6" S&W 586.
Starline brass once fired, trimmed to 1.285", CCI500, 13.4 grains (thrown light then trickled up) of 2400, 1.585" OAL.
Going off Alliant data of 14.5g of 2400 and a 170 grain GDSP running 1166 fps, I'd started off with these using 13.6g, and was a little surprised to see them going over the chrono at 1333 fps average with sticky extraction and kind of brisk recoil. They were awesome, but I figured I should lighten it up.
Dialed it back to 13.3g and that ran 1209 fps average with good extraction. Going up a tenth to see how it goes. Went a little crazy, loaded 50. This is not quite a compressed load. If I shake a round I can hear the powder move around just a little bit. I think this bullet is now an obsolete part number, so I should have the load all figured out right as I run out.
View attachment 428280
the primers need to be bottomed out especially if not a snug fit as the the F-pin can drive them forward loosing that energy to fire. The one that fired off on a retry propbably set off the now seated primer.
Take a good look at some of those primers you used and see if any are visible to having defects.
I emptied a tray of FGMM LR primers and found a anvil loose in the tray. Funny thing is non of the primers in that box where missing the anvil.
I have some remington LP that you could clearly see the difference between the primers and the amount compound in them.
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2019
- Messages
- 49
- Likes
- 55
I’m working on some 38 plinker loads using 3.6 grains of AA #2 under a 158grain Acme semi wadcutter.
I've got a couple boxes of new old stock Sierra 180 grain jacketed flat point #8370. I'll dig into those when I've depleted the 170s. They look interesting.
Just measured. They run about 0.748" long. I have them seated with 0.445" below the top of the case.
Dug into the bullet stash and put together some 357 magnum 100 yard thumpers for the 6" S&W 586.
Starline brass once fired, trimmed to 1.285", CCI500, 13.4 grains (thrown light then trickled up) of 2400, 1.585" OAL.
Going off Alliant data of 14.5g of 2400 and a 170 grain GDSP running 1166 fps, I'd started off with these using 13.6g, and was a little surprised to see them going over the chrono at 1333 fps average with sticky extraction and kind of brisk recoil. They were awesome, but I figured I should lighten it up.
Dialed it back to 13.3g and that ran 1209 fps average with good extraction. Going up a tenth to see how it goes. Went a little crazy, loaded 50. This is not quite a compressed load. If I shake a round I can hear the powder move around just a little bit. I think this bullet is now an obsolete part number, so I should have the load all figured out right as I run out.
I cleaned out Midway when they stopped making that bullet. I think I got 5 boxes of them somewhere. I used them in my Marlin lever gun with Lil' Gun and around 17gr if I recall. Its a stout load for sure and has to be screaming fast. NEVER use that one in a handgun!! (maybe in a DE but I'd be hesitatant) I may try some 2400 though since it sounds like you're getting good results with that.
I made sure that the die touched the shell holder but maybe I’ll turn it another 1/4 turn.
How do you set up your 30-30 dies? @Michael J. Spangler
A Wilson (or similar) head space case gauge will help with shoulder placement/die adjustment, but you should be able to use your rifle's chamber as well. Try chambering a sized case until you get no undue resistance while going into full lockup. If you need to seat a bullet to aid in feeding, do so. Once you get proper chambering, lock the nut on your sizer die.
Since the .30-30 head spaces on the rim, you might find case length may work a bit longer than spec. (depends on your rifle's chamber), but if you are seating bullets with a crimp groove or cannelure, you'll want to have consistent case lengths. You still may have grief with certain bullet profiles if excessively long.
With tiny bullets, some manuals caution that rounds may not feed due to lift gate tolerances.
FWIW, I've run the M1 Carbine 110g bullets and the Lyman (311008, left in pic) .32-20 bullet (sized to .308") in reduced loads and they function just fine..
Since the .30-30 head spaces on the rim, you might find case length may work a bit longer than spec. (depends on your rifle's chamber), but if you are seating bullets with a crimp groove or cannelure, you'll want to have consistent case lengths. You still may have grief with certain bullet profiles if excessively long.
With tiny bullets, some manuals caution that rounds may not feed due to lift gate tolerances.
FWIW, I've run the M1 Carbine 110g bullets and the Lyman (311008, left in pic) .32-20 bullet (sized to .308") in reduced loads and they function just fine..
Attachments
I found the article I was looking for regarding primer misfires, or not. It's a short read and mentions most of what has already been said/recommended.
Ammo Primer Misfires - Why They Happen - Guns and Ammo
If you experience an ammo misfire, you thoroughly investigate to determine the cause - firearm firing pin, bad primer, old ammo - so you can address and fix the problem.
www.gunsandammo.com
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Touching the shell holder. I use a rock chucker which isn’t designed to cam over so touching is fine.
Thanks. Ya I just looked up the Lee specs and it doesn’t cam over. So I think that rules out the cases not being sized.
Leaves me with high primers, OAL too long, or dirty bolt.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Did you say you swapped out the main spring?
I’m not sure if it’s the same on any other Marlin’s but my 39 has multiple slots for the hammer spring stirrup retention plate or whatever it’s called. You can adjust hammer spring tension that way and get a smoother feel to the action but a lighter strike which may or may not work.
I haven't read all the responses, but have you confirmed if headspace is okay? Apologies if this was already answered.
Oh no way that’s cool. No mine doesn’t have that. I did change out the spring but I had to put the factory spring back in as it wouldn’t ignite any of the primers.
I just took apart the bolt and it wasn’t really dirty at all. Next I’ll ensure I seat the primers deep and shorten the OAL a tad.
Good question. I have no idea if the headspace is okay. You’d assume it’s okay since it was a hunting rifle and wasn’t shot much? If I still get light strikes after messing with the OAL and primer depth, I’ll have to check headspace
It should be headspacing on the rim, I am pretty sure your problem is with primers not seated deep enough.
Mudflap621
NES Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2019
- Messages
- 1,122
- Likes
- 2,636
THIS IS DEFINITELY the problem. Your press is the wrong color! Jk lil JB weld good as new. I’d make sure primers are bottomed out and go from there.
THis link is not working so try google searching
Checking Winchester Model 94 Headspace
the Quick Way, its a hack way to check headspace.
The Frugal Outdoorsman
An online magazine dedicated to shooting, hunting, camping and doing things the old fashioned way.
www.castbullet.com
i might have a 3030 headspace gauge if i do i will ship it to you.
Last edited:
@andrew1220 you must have a set of punches right? Just reseat any of those primers you already did with an appropriate sized punch. Use a rubber mallet though just to be safe!
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
I never get sick of looking at nice pictures ammo or components.
So when are you going to start casting? I see a 45-70 in your future and you’re going to want to cast for that
Lmao. I don’t think I want to get into 45-70 at the moment. Badass round though.
Keep track of headstamps
Ahh yes!
After doing some reading it appears headspace issues were relatively common with the older Marlins - compounded even more when there are variations in the rim thickness. I see on other forums that guys are basically neck sizing only so it headspaces off the shoulder instead of the rim. This allows basically zero “play” in the chamber when the bolt is closed. Added bonus is you’re increasing case life.
I’ll go that route if I’m still getting light strikes with these new rounds I loaded. Should be easy to figure out with my Hornady headspace comparator...
Last edited:
