This. I would shoot one round and verify it left the barrel before shooting another round. I think you'll be fine as long as you're not loading like 1.5 grains of BE
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What did you do in the reloading room recently?
- Thread starter DW357
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I'm just going to try em and see what happens. It is a published 38 load but I'll just be careful. The goal is a good 38 I can economically shoot through the snubs and the rifle with a jacketed bullet. Maybe bullseye is not the powder for the rifle but I'm going to try especially after proving the powder measure I bought throws bullseye powder well.This. I would shoot one round and verify it left the barrel before shooting another round. I think you'll be fine as long as you're not loading like 1.5 grains of BE
I got the same one and it’s still working (barely) after being hit by 357 mag and a 9mm if I recall
It’s held together with duct tape at the moment and the front label/decal for the buttons has fallen off.
One of these days I’ll send it back to CE as I hear they’ll fix/repair them.
don’t bother sending it back...it’ll cost the same amount as buying a new one and you’ll have to wait longer.
ask me how I know....
Haha that's what I was wondering. They would have to charge like $20 to fix it to make it worthwhile. But if it's approaching $100 then it's kinda pointless.
Thanks for chiming in. Now I won't bother doing that.
I got mine back from them and shot it again (maybe out of spite)...luckily it still works though.
dhuze
NES Member
I like to not shoot mine.
Well where is the fun in that?.....
mu2bdriver
NES Member
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Resized about 2k 30-06 and dreaming about life after my trimmer arrives in the mail. I wonder how long that honeymoon will last...
to each their own.
pastera
NES Member
For me, around round 200 when your fingers start to hate you.
dhuze
NES Member
I've noticed an increase in scores when I don't shoot things that aren't my target.
I've got spreadsheets like that from load testing and comparisons. It's been helpful to refer back to from time to time, especially when I'm traveling off the beaten path with some powder or other. Once I select a load, though, I just manufacture it as desired without note. So my spreadsheets only grow very much when I'm working on something new. Like right now I've got a tray of 44 magnums loaded up to explore whether I'm willing to switch from H110 to N110 in my 44 magnum 240 grain jacketed loads (N110 is more expensive and has lower max velocity but should be cleaner burning, less temperature sensitive, and less abrasive to forcing cones and top straps when shot in revolvers than H110) and also compare 3 loads each using Alliant 2400 for some 180 and 210 grain bullets, bullets I recently got as part of a deal and won't be replenishing my supply of. I'll chrono and accuracy-test them when it warms up later this week. There will be a spreadsheet on it that looks a lot like yours. Then I'll make a choice and record the recipe in my "preferred load" spreadsheet. Quite possibly I will not end up recording another 44 magnum load for a very long time.
I got like 2.5 pounds of H110 left and I think I might just switch to 2400 for 44 mag since I use tons of 2400 in 357. It would be nice to consolidate powders I guess. I also use H110 for 30 carbine but 2400 can be used in 30 carbine too. Then I don't have to worry about using magnum primers in 44 mag...
I hear good things about N110 but I'm not sure if the higher price is worth it to me (compared to 2400 pricing). I use the pricier N320 in 9mm but when you're using 3.1 grains it goes a long way. But with 44 mag, it goes quick! To each their own though! Curious to hear your feedback if you end up grabbing some.
I will admit that cleaner burning and not needing magnum primers is a big plus with N110.
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Tumbled about 500 .223 cases from last Saterday's shooting session, then started cleaning an 8mm K98 Mauser. Using a copper bore brush, some carb cleaner and about forty patches and they are still coming out black. I never thought a barrel could hold so much crap....and it's not cosmoline....it's powder residue.
I think it's time to plug and pour with solvent and let it sit for a few days.
For an 80 year old rifle, ( date of mfg 1940) the bore and riflings are in surprisingly great condition.....just dirty as all get out. I'm hoping to get it out to the range soon and see how it shoots once it is cleaned.
I think it's time to plug and pour with solvent and let it sit for a few days.
For an 80 year old rifle, ( date of mfg 1940) the bore and riflings are in surprisingly great condition.....just dirty as all get out. I'm hoping to get it out to the range soon and see how it shoots once it is cleaned.
I bought 8 pounds of N110 back when they had a rebate going, so I'm definitely going to find out. As for being "worth it", it's helpful, sometimes, to recognize when the human brain foists some unnecessary constraints on us. We have interesting instincts where economy is concerned. We do relative comparisons really well, even when the absolute differences don't matter. I did the math, taking price per grain and charge weights into account, and in my 240gr 44 magnum loads, it will probably work out to an extra $13 per thousand cartridges when compared to H110 if bought in the 8 pounds size from the same source. Given what I spend on other things, I just don't think I should be obsessing about the cost of smokeless powder when the difference is going to look like that. I decided just to use what I want to use. So I just need to figure that out. The only thing I don't like about N110 so far is that sometimes it resists in the powder drop when it needs to cut a stick. H110 and 2400 never offer any resistance. I like 2400, but the unburned powder in the fired cases is a little off-putting to me. Granted, it doesn't seem to translate to anything downrange.
At any rate, I've dropped H110 in .357 Magnum, and as a result, I no longer need to stock SP magnum primers. I use WLP's for large pistol, and H110 seems indifferent to them versus Federal LP magnum primers, though, so there isn't a primer benefit for 44 magnum.
Old Wideners was getting berdan primers in and they would sell out as fast as they put out the email.Thanks Andrew. I really have an adequate supply and I'm only using it as long as I have workable berdan primers.
I know what you mean about being reluctant to toss it. Too bad the primers weren't readily available for more Swiss shooters to reuse this fine brass.
I'd think some dealer/FFL could monopolize the berdan primer business, if they could get an exclusive USA distributorship from Murom, D-N, whomever?
Most reloaders wouldn't bother with berdan-primed cases, but many would love to have that option, were they available, affordably, in the US.
last batch I picked up 5000k in 2009 IIRC. i was reloading some Ruasian 762x54r match brass
Then the great ammo/reloading depression came.
i was offered a large sum for my remaining berdan primers... Then i got the K31. Now I have a short ton of swiss brass waiting for some primers.
Pull the barrel ed action from the stock ,
then with a brush with a patch over it you can use hot dish soapy water like a plunger. Place the muzzle in the bucket , the cleaning rod throuvh the chamber and start pumping that warm soapy water through the bore. The warm water helps and the dish soap is a good surfactant.
the foaming bore cleaners did well for me with my dark bore K98 dont see much of the foaming cleaners these days. Used up the last of my GunSlick brand copper foam cleaner on a friends garand that I dont think seen since D day.
My k98 was a bit rough but shoots pretty good.
can hold the black of a SR target anyway
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="k98 - YouTube" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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Very true. I make that same argument for N320 in 9mm. It costs me like an extra penny or 2 compared to using titegroup. That added costs basically gets “lost in the noise” as they say. And it meters well burns clean and is accurate so it’s worth the added cost.
In reality N110 is not really that much more expensive as you said. The added benefits of it over H110/2400 are certainly appealing.
N320 is a small stick powder but meters fine in my Hornady measure. Curious what the grains look like for N110. If they’re anything like rifle stick powders, that will not meter well in the Hornady measure.
And yes the rebates! Forgot about those. You bought N110 at a good time. Looking forward to the range report!
I think I’d be a fool to stop using 2400 in 357 mag though. Getting ~2" groups at 100 yards with my revolver is pretty good.
The only other thing I don’t like about N110 is it’s not very flashy! And I like the flash from my revolvers
I guess it has flash/flame retardants or whatever they’re called? This is just what I’ve “read” online.
The only other thing I don’t like about N110 is it’s not very flashy! And I like the flash from my revolvers
I guess it has flash/flame retardants or whatever they’re called? This is just what I’ve “read” online.
N110 is their fastest rifle powder, actually, but it looks very similar to N320. Not sure if the sticks cut/break as easily. That might matter.
N320 top, N110 middle, N170 bottom
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I think I’d be a fool to stop using 2400 in 357 mag though. Getting ~2" groups at 100 yards with my revolver is pretty good.
The only other thing I don’t like about N110 is it’s not very flashy! And I like the flash from my revolvers
I guess it has flash/flame retardants or whatever they’re called? This is just what I’ve “read” online.
I can definitely see that from your point of view.
VV claims that their powders have both flash and copper fouling suppressants. Spare no expense.
I'm not sure I've seen more flash with anything than 2400. I want to say it's flashier than H110. I do kinda like it as well, and it entertains the onlookers.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
National Center for Forensic Science
www.ilrc.ucf.edu
Cool reference.
Ya 2400 is flashy as hell.I can definitely see that from your point of view.
VV claims that their powders have both flash and copper fouling suppressants. Spare no expense.
Did you get any of the Speer 44 cal silhouette bullets from Nat? I just noticed the warning on the boxes and the note inside.
I made a dummy round and they’re too long for my Henry 44...not a huge deal since they were so cheap and they’ll be shot mostly from the DW anyway.
I switched the press over to 9mm for the first time in about a year. Need to get cranking so I have a steady supply for USPSA/IDPA this year.
Only loaded about 100 rounds using 150 gr blue bullets over N320...
Only loaded about 100 rounds using 150 gr blue bullets over N320...
I'll do that.
I was just farting around and didn't realize how dirty it was. I'll pull it tomorrow.
Yeah, I've got 400 of those. Too long for the Henry? Surprised. I guess they do look a little long in front of the cannelure. What does the COAL work out to? I wonder whether they would run in my Ruger 44 carbine. I could always shoot them out of my CVA or 69 or run them single-shot through the Henry, assuming that it's cycling them rather than chambering them that fails because they're too long.
I saw the warning too, and as long as you seat your primers properly, just inside the plane of the case bottom, I don't see how. I have seen some factory ammo that the primers looked flush with the case bottom, and maybe that is kind of iffy with these, but my reloads don't look like that. I remember with the Zero JHPC 38 caliber bullets, I was worried because the hollow point is copper faced and about the same size as the primer pocket. So I made a dummy round, primed an empty case, drilled a hole in a piece of wood to hold the case, put on some eye and ear pro, and proceeded to try to set the primed case off with the dummy round using a hammer. Could not do it. Not much recoil there, anyway. Thought I might try the same with these just to confirm what seems obvious enough.
Yeah too long to cycle not to chamber. I’ll have to make another dummy round as I already pulled the bullet and didn’t bother measuring the COL
I got 700 of those. No biggie. They’ll be a perfect bullet to ring steel with my DW....
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Yeah too long to cycle not to chamber. I’ll have to make another dummy round as I already pulled the bullet and didn’t bother measuring the COL
I got 700 of those. No biggie. They’ll be a perfect bullet to ring still with my DW....
Don't bother to make another dummy round. I can work it out with a pair of calipers. It's not rocket science.
