• If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership  The benefits pay for the membership many times over.

What did you do in the reloading room recently?

After taking a closer look when I got home, I'm not entirely sure the difference from the crimp was quite the cure, though I think it did help reduce the granules a bit. However, I was shooting a different revolver, and I hadn't felt anything while shooting the last 100 rounds. That made me optimistic. But I got to thinking. When I said the timing was fine on the other revolver, I was basing that on the fact that lockup was assured before the hammer would fall on each chamber. I can easily advance the cylinder all the way around in a slow double action pull without ever dropping the hammer. I check this sort of thing regularly. But that test presumes that everything is lined up when it's locked up, and the revolver in question is a new one purchased early this year.

So I did a closer inspection of the alignment when the cylinder is locked on each hole, and I think in some cases I can see the right edge of the charge hole peeking in. It's not a large or obvious thing, but it may be enough to account for my experience with it. After reflecting on the matter, I can remember feeling a bit more debris coming back when I've shot other loads with it. I just never gave it much thought until it started happening almost every shot. I'm going to call S&W next week and see about sending it in.
 
After taking a closer look when I got home, I'm not entirely sure the difference from the crimp was quite the cure, though I think it did help reduce the granules a bit. However, I was shooting a different revolver, and I hadn't felt anything while shooting the last 100 rounds. That made me optimistic. But I got to thinking. When I said the timing was fine on the other revolver, I was basing that on the fact that lockup was assured before the hammer would fall on each chamber. I can easily advance the cylinder all the way around in a slow double action pull without ever dropping the hammer. I check this sort of thing regularly. But that test presumes that everything is lined up when it's locked up, and the revolver in question is a new one purchased early this year.

So I did a closer inspection of the alignment when the cylinder is locked on each hole, and I think in some cases I can see the right edge of the charge hole peeking in. It's not a large or obvious thing, but it may be enough to account for my experience with it. After reflecting on the matter, I can remember feeling a bit more debris coming back when I've shot other loads with it. I just never gave it much thought until it started happening almost every shot. I'm going to call S&W next week and see about sending it in.

That makes sense. Keep us updated.
 
Working up a 45 load (200gr SWC - ~5.7gr WIN231 - 1.25 COL) for my Glock 21. It just doesn't seem to like SWC's...too many FTF's to rely on if shooting a match. Order placed for some 200GR RNFP's...that should get 'er done.

Got my 200gr RNFP's. Going to load these a little shorter (1.19 COL) drop the charge to 5.5 and re-chrono.
 
Finally getting close to revisiting cast loads in the 7.7 , 8mm and 54r.
Will be mostly 50 yard plinkers shooting at milk jugs and such.

314299 bullet- sized accordingly.
2400 and Trailboss for powder
 
Did up eighteen rounds of 7.62x54R for the Winter Warrior Match and sixteen rounds of 8mm.
I'll hopefully be shooting some of my 30-06 reloads through the Eddystone this week as well.
 
I just added a genaration 6 lyman powder dispenser. I like it so far . I really had a hard time trusting a digital scale but I double checked charges with my old analog scale and the digital is very accurate. It throws a dozen charges or so dead on then a few a grain lite . I'm running some hot 10mm loads and experimenting with some heavy hard cast 250 gr 45acp loads my son wants so I like weighing each load . Using bluedot .
 
Finally getting close to revisiting cast loads in the 7.7 , 8mm and 54r.
Will be mostly 50 yard plinkers shooting at milk jugs and such.

314299 bullet- sized accordingly.
2400 and Trailboss for powder

Just did the same and tested it. 314299 with gas check and lube. Seated right so that the last lube line is just covered as I am trying to keep the GC in the case neck. Trailboss.

Loaded ten just to see how the cases look afterward. Worked really well. Now to go back and work on accuracy. Looks like I need to buy some 2400 also. I have a bunch of lead so relatively cheap 7.7 is a huge savings. Primer, powder, GC and cases I already have.

Also need to start converting 30-06 cases to 7.7.
 
I relearned to sort my 9mm brass :(

Loading mixed brass with Lee 356-120-TC bullets. The stock seating stem in the Lee die causes the bullet to cant if it isn't perfectly aligned in the case. That with crimping and seating mixed brass in one station adds up to rounds that don't gauge (but only some of them [banghead]).

Modeled and printed up a seater stem specifically for this round and used it to separately seat and crimp some dummy rounds with success.
Don't have a second die so I printed up a seating only die so that I don't have to wait for shipping
Seater stem: 9mm bullet seater stem for Lee 356-120-TC by pastera
Complete Die: 9mm Bullet Seating Die 7/8-14 by pastera

Now I just need to pull the 50 I did - setup the press, ran ten that were fine, then ran out 50 to check in bulk when the mixed brass got me.

Unfortunately, my youngest is almost 18 so bribing him to sort 30 lbs of 9mm cases is not going to work...
 
Also need to start converting 30-06 cases to 7.7.

this takes forever...lol. ask me how I know.

I at least smartened up and bought a 'pipe cutter' to take the brass down to a managable trim size and worked it from there with my drill bit trimmer. It IS rewarding to make something out of basically nothing though. I've loaded the 20 cases I made 6 months ago about 5 or 6 times already and they're doing just fine! I have 40 more cases I want to dedicate to the cause so I have enough for a CMP vintage match should I choose to bring the Jap along.
 
Just did the same and tested it. 314299 with gas check and lube. Seated right so that the last lube line is just covered as I am trying to keep the GC in the case neck. Trailboss.

Loaded ten just to see how the cases look afterward. Worked really well. Now to go back and work on accuracy. Looks like I need to buy some 2400 also. I have a bunch of lead so relatively cheap 7.7 is a huge savings. Primer, powder, GC and cases I already have.

Also need to start converting 30-06 cases to 7.7.
To each their own but I’d just buy new unprimed PPU 7.7 Jap brass for 50 cents each.
 
That's definitely the smarter route!

I found a quicker way to do it with the pipe cutter, but really I just wanted to see if I COULD do it. Dark days are bound to find us again, and it's nice to know I have a new skill I can use for a few different calibers I shoot should it ever come to it!
 
That's definitely the smarter route!

I found a quicker way to do it with the pipe cutter, but really I just wanted to see if I COULD do it. Dark days are bound to find us again, and it's nice to know I have a new skill I can use for a few different calibers I shoot should it ever come to it!
Yes that is definitely a good skill to have! I can’t say I’ve attempted it lol.
 
To each their own but I’d just buy new unprimed PPU 7.7 Jap brass for 50 cents each.
Its nice to have correct head stamp for sure. When I first started loading for 7.7 jap Norma brass was the only stuff I could fund. Then finally PPU came around. At one point it was cheaper to buy the PPU ammo just the brass.
i finally scored some 7.5 swiss and 7.7 jap and 8mm brass on sale few years back for 30 cents each shipped.

I made 7.7 jap from 77 HXP custom "headstamp"

7.7 jap from 30-06 , getting ready for a match
 
Last edited:
Its nice to have correct head stamp for sure. When I first started loading for 7.7 jap Norma brass was the only stuff I could fund. Then finally PPU came around. At one point it was cheaper to buy the PPU ammo just the brass.
i finally scored some 7.5 swiss and 7.7 jap and 8mm brass on sale few years back for 30 cents each shipped.

I made 7.7 jap from 77 HXP custom "headstamp"

7.7 jap from 30-06 , getting ready for a match
I remember reading that and thinking how smart that was, it's what I'd do.
If the need arises I'll trim 9mm down to 9x18 but I only if I have to.

I've heard both 8mm and 30-06 being converted to 7.7, is one easier than the other? In practical terms I'd probably do 30-06 since I have way more brass.
 
Its nice to have correct head stamp for sure. When I first started loading for 7.7 jap Norma brass was the only stuff I could fund. Then finally PPU came around. At one point it was cheaper to buy the PPU ammo just the brass.
i finally scored some 7.5 swiss and 7.7 jap and 8mm brass on sale few years back for 30 cents each shipped.

I made 7.7 jap from 77 HXP custom "headstamp"

7.7 jap from 30-06 , getting ready for a match
Its nice to have correct head stamp for sure. When I first started loading for 7.7 jap Norma brass was the only stuff I could fund. Then finally PPU came around. At one point it was cheaper to buy the PPU ammo just the brass.
i finally scored some 7.5 swiss and 7.7 jap and 8mm brass on sale few years back for 30 cents each shipped.

I made 7.7 jap from 77 HXP custom "headstamp"

7.7 jap from 30-06 , getting ready for a match
Correct headstamp and no fussing to convert brass etc. 50 cents a case. Buy once cry once. But that’s just me being lazy and rather spend the money [laugh]
 
Question for any Northshore reloaders. I paid for my powder and storage permit online several months ago and have a receipt., never received anything in the mail or by email. I've waited this long b4 contacting them because I needed to move some metal cabinets into place for storage. Does the F.D. do an inspection or shouldn't I have received something on paper for my $$ . Plan on calling them this week ,just want to know if I'm worrying about nothing. Thanks. (Peabody Fire dept. )
 
Question for any Northshore reloaders. I paid for my powder and storage permit online several months ago and have a receipt., never received anything in the mail or by email. I've waited this long b4 contacting them because I needed to move some metal cabinets into place for storage. Does the F.D. do an inspection or shouldn't I have received something on paper for my $$ . Plan on calling them this week ,just want to know if I'm worrying about nothing. Thanks. (Peabody Fire dept. )
For some reason I thought there where no more fees for the ammo storage permits?
 
Back
Top Bottom