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What did you do in the reloading room recently?

Hell it looks good though.
I think I have a Lyman 357 die in a batch of stuff I’m selling for a buddy if you want it $10 and it’s yours. You can probably lap it out pretty easily.
Already put an order in for the .359

Lapping out a die turned out to be above my level of skill/tooling/patience. I'll go for it again in the future but will need to set aside enough time to make the right tooling first.
 
Loaded up some mid-range 45 colt and some 38spl with the Lyman gen6 powder dispenser. Auto repeat function is awesome. Pour powder in case, set pan back on scale, and by the time Im done seating the bullet the next charge is ready. Could barely keep up while doing the 38's. Had 1 throw out of 100 that was a tenth low, everything else was right on the money.

Looking forward to using for load development. Really hate adjusting the powder measure for each load or trickling the whole time. It'll be nice to punch in the next load and have the machine do the work.

Also did a quick couple hundred 124 grain 9MM.
 
Doing a complete clean out to make room for more stuff.
Just finished moving the cabinet with the ammo in it.
Also tumbling brass in between. My basement was a organized mess before now it's just FUBAR.
 
Picked up some supplies for my new rifle. Should have a decent kick vs. my .308win.
 

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What mould are you using for those 9MM castings? That's damn near a Berry's RNPL, nice work and super nice coating.

Thank you!
MP 356-130. 6 Cavity Brass.
The guy who makes them is an artist. I also have his 454-200 Hollow point mould and it drops 4 hollow points just as fast as you can run it.
I had a sample of the Black Gold powder left over from the seminar so I gave it a shot. It seems like it wants to be tumbled just a bit longer than the other stuff I'm using. If I don't tumble long enough it seemed like the color would pool in spots on the bullet. Slight change in method but it seems to have worked out fine.
 
Out of curosity, what were you trying to lap it with?
And that is where the patience problem started - I didn't have a wood dowel that I could turn down and split so I used steel and filed a couple of small flats to hold compound. Was working well until it grabbed and galled the bore.
 
Purchased a used Hornady Lock n Load progressive from a member here. Spent the past week tinkering with it. First had inconsistent powder drops. Got that sorted out, now it's the primer feed.

With the handle fully depressed, the tray is maybe 1/10th of an inch off from being brought completely back. I cleaned everything twice, played with the "z wire" alignment and still no luck. Any suggestions?
 
Purchased a used Hornady Lock n Load progressive from a member here. Spent the past week tinkering with it. First had inconsistent powder drops. Got that sorted out, now it's the primer feed.

With the handle fully depressed, the tray is maybe 1/10th of an inch off from being brought completely back. I cleaned everything twice, played with the "z wire" alignment and still no luck. Any suggestions?

Buy a Dillon
 
Finally got around to doing some loading last night after redoing my layout.
First time using Prvi Partizan 55gr .224. CFE223 is just a cool looking powder.
Planning to run some rounds on Wednesday.
New tumbler should arrive Friday. I have probably 300 cases of 30-06 to clean. Planning to do up some 303 Brit and 7.62x54R as well.
 
Finally got around to doing some loading last night after redoing my layout.
First time using Prvi Partizan 55gr .224. CFE223 is just a cool looking powder.
Planning to run some rounds on Wednesday.
New tumbler should arrive Friday. I have probably 300 cases of 30-06 to clean. Planning to do up some 303 Brit and 7.62x54R as well.
Nice. I’m sure I’ve asked before but forgot already, what bullets are you using for x54R?
 
Purchased a used Hornady Lock n Load progressive from a member here. Spent the past week tinkering with it. First had inconsistent powder drops. Got that sorted out, now it's the primer feed.

With the handle fully depressed, the tray is maybe 1/10th of an inch off from being brought completely back. I cleaned everything twice, played with the "z wire" alignment and still no luck. Any suggestions?

Did you check to see if there’s debris/brass shavings stuck inside the primer plug assembly? That’s the part that pushes the primer into the case. I’ve had debris get stuck in there which then doesn’t allow it to remain flush/below the primer tray. The tray then can’t fully retract.

Is the little primer tray spring stretched too long?

I may be misunderstanding what your issue is with the primer feed.
 
Nice. I’m sure I’ve asked before but forgot already, what bullets are you using for x54R?
Most recently I've been using 110gr round nose Hornady Match. Very light recoil with IMR 3031 and no problems hitting the steel plate at 100 yards. I did buy some 150gr projectiles too but I haven't used them with the x54R yet. I've got around 60-80 cases to play with so maybe I'll mix and match.
I'm all out of 303 Brit so that probably takes priority. I mucked with the sights on the Enfield obliviously and last time out was a disaster.
Someone did give me around 20 cases of 303. I only necksize that caliber, is there any way to use them short of full length sizing? Can I try to chamber one of his empty cases and see if it'll fit? Just curious, haven't run into that scenario yet since I'm either loading my own cases or using found cases in a caliber that I full length size already like 30-06.
 
Neck sizing your .303 British should be adequate, until the shoulder starts to interfere with proper chambering. Can't say if that will be an immediate problem. Do up a round with your intended bullet and seating depth and test chamber it.
Don't forget the .303 British coated gc 200 grainer that Norm in NM has. Pretty hard to justify running to the lgs or starting your furnace for 13¢ a pop. Middle item in attachment... .313" diameter
 

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Neck sizing your .303 British should be adequate, until the shoulder starts to interfere with proper chambering. Can't say if that will be an immediate problem. Do up a round with your intended bullet and seating depth and test chamber it.
Don't forget the .303 British coated gc 200 grainer that Norm in NM has. Pretty hard to justify running to the lgs or starting your furnace for 13¢ a pop. Middle item in attachment... .313" diameter
Just to clarify, I was talking about someone else's brass. I have 60 pieces or so of 303 I fired out my rifle that I know will be good to go with necksizing. At the range someone else was firing their own Enfield and gave me his brass. I know that you generally only necksize brass from your own rifle, but I was curious how likely necksizing his brass would work, for example, if his chamber was looser or something. I didn't know if I could just necksize a piece, and put a projectile in there without powder and see if it would chamber, or some other test. I don't want to have to pull a bunch, but I don't want to waste a bunch of 303 cases either since I have precious few.
 
Yes, any unknown brass can be neck-sized and trial chambered...just one or two pieces (don't waste your time on a few hundred, if they end up needing more work). You don't know what chamber(s) these pick ups come from, but if they chamber smoothly as is, the neck-sizing will give you adequate tension to seat bullets and then you should be golden.
Obviously, if 100 pieces of brass came from 100 different rifles, I'd check them all or simply F.L. resize initially and then neck-size as required once fired from your rifle.
 
Yes, any unknown brass can be neck-sized and trial chambered...just one or two pieces (don't waste your time on a few hundred, if they end up needing more work). You don't know what chamber(s) these pick ups come from, but if they chamber smoothly as is, the neck-sizing will give you adequate tension to seat bullets and then you should be golden.
Obviously, if 100 pieces of brass came from 100 different rifles, I'd check them all or simply F.L. resize initially and then neck-size as required once fired from your rifle.
They're all from the same gentleman. I think I'll necksize a coupe and see if they fit. Worth a shot.
 
You might find this link useful:
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/par...pace-101-for-303-39-s-t3361.html#.V-f2IIgrJMw
I simply placed a thin washer (IIRC, 0.014") between the case and bolt face and found the spacing to be gtg.
The .303 Brit h/s on the rim, so mil-surps, with generally generous chambers, your brass can grow a bit before f.l. resizing might be required.
You can load up a few after you test chamber a couple pieces of mt brass and likely you'll be okay. At worst, test-chamber all of your reloads before heading to the range and leave behind any that don't chamber properly. THe mechanical advantage of the inclined plane (case taper) and the force of the camming bolt can really bind up an over-sized case inside your chamber requiring much effort to remove said case.
If you meet resistance chambering a round, don't force it in! Extract the round and inspect for proper dimensions, etc.
 
Did you check to see if there’s debris/brass shavings stuck inside the primer plug assembly? That’s the part that pushes the primer into the case. I’ve had debris get stuck in there which then doesn’t allow it to remain flush/below the primer tray. The tray then can’t fully retract.

Is the little primer tray spring stretched too long?

I may be misunderstanding what your issue is with the primer feed.

I found the manual online for the press. I took note of them saying the spring that attaches to the subplate and the primer slide has to be oriented facing up. Did a dry run and appears to be working.

I plan on tearing down the primer system, degreasing then coating it with graphite.
 
And that is where the patience problem started - I didn't have a wood dowel that I could turn down and split so I used steel and filed a couple of small flats to hold compound. Was working well until it grabbed and galled the bore.
If your looking for a straight bore, wood isn't really the answer. Sounds like you were lapping under power, pushed too hard and not enough lube mixed in. You don't really need flats, just a very slight taper to lead it in. Also helps if one particular lap isn't going to open the bore more than .001 and if your using clover 400 grit, it will cut .001 over the size of the lap
 
Busy night tonight, cast some 38's, hi-tek coated, and sized.
9.jpg 38.jpg

Also finished sizing and lubing a whole pile of 45's and 500's.
lubed.jpg

I also found a use for the stupid dripping lee pot, lead sculpture! I think I'm going to give it a clear coat and use it as a paperweight!
drips.jpg
 
Busy night tonight, cast some 38's, hi-tek coated, and sized.
View attachment 213716 View attachment 213717

Also finished sizing and lubing a whole pile of 45's and 500's.
View attachment 213719

I also found a use for the stupid dripping lee pot, lead sculpture! I think I'm going to give it a clear coat and use it as a paperweight!
View attachment 213720

Nice drip o matic sculpture.
We need a thread for the best Lee lead drip sculptures. I swear I had one that looked like a llama. Should have kept it.
 
Managed to do this on the door frame while opening the reloading room this morning.

It really helped to perk me up for the day.
 

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