38ExtraSpecial
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Already put an order in for the .359Hell it looks good though.
I think I have a Lyman 357 die in a batch of stuff I’m selling for a buddy if you want it $10 and it’s yours. You can probably lap it out pretty easily.
Out of curosity, what were you trying to lap it with?Already put an order in for the .359
Lapping out a die turned out to be above my level of skill/tooling/patience. I'll go for it again in the future but will need to set aside enough time to make the right tooling first.
What mould are you using for those 9MM castings? That's damn near a Berry's RNPL, nice work and super nice coating.
Cast and coated a bunch more of those 9mm bullets pictured above.
Now I need to find my .358” sizer that seems to have disappeared
And that is where the patience problem started - I didn't have a wood dowel that I could turn down and split so I used steel and filed a couple of small flats to hold compound. Was working well until it grabbed and galled the bore.Out of curosity, what were you trying to lap it with?
Purchased a used Hornady Lock n Load progressive from a member here. Spent the past week tinkering with it. First had inconsistent powder drops. Got that sorted out, now it's the primer feed.
With the handle fully depressed, the tray is maybe 1/10th of an inch off from being brought completely back. I cleaned everything twice, played with the "z wire" alignment and still no luck. Any suggestions?
Nice. I’m sure I’ve asked before but forgot already, what bullets are you using for x54R?Finally got around to doing some loading last night after redoing my layout.
First time using Prvi Partizan 55gr .224. CFE223 is just a cool looking powder.
Planning to run some rounds on Wednesday.
New tumbler should arrive Friday. I have probably 300 cases of 30-06 to clean. Planning to do up some 303 Brit and 7.62x54R as well.
Purchased a used Hornady Lock n Load progressive from a member here. Spent the past week tinkering with it. First had inconsistent powder drops. Got that sorted out, now it's the primer feed.
With the handle fully depressed, the tray is maybe 1/10th of an inch off from being brought completely back. I cleaned everything twice, played with the "z wire" alignment and still no luck. Any suggestions?
Most recently I've been using 110gr round nose Hornady Match. Very light recoil with IMR 3031 and no problems hitting the steel plate at 100 yards. I did buy some 150gr projectiles too but I haven't used them with the x54R yet. I've got around 60-80 cases to play with so maybe I'll mix and match.Nice. I’m sure I’ve asked before but forgot already, what bullets are you using for x54R?
Just to clarify, I was talking about someone else's brass. I have 60 pieces or so of 303 I fired out my rifle that I know will be good to go with necksizing. At the range someone else was firing their own Enfield and gave me his brass. I know that you generally only necksize brass from your own rifle, but I was curious how likely necksizing his brass would work, for example, if his chamber was looser or something. I didn't know if I could just necksize a piece, and put a projectile in there without powder and see if it would chamber, or some other test. I don't want to have to pull a bunch, but I don't want to waste a bunch of 303 cases either since I have precious few.Neck sizing your .303 British should be adequate, until the shoulder starts to interfere with proper chambering. Can't say if that will be an immediate problem. Do up a round with your intended bullet and seating depth and test chamber it.
Don't forget the .303 British coated gc 200 grainer that Norm in NM has. Pretty hard to justify running to the lgs or starting your furnace for 13¢ a pop. Middle item in attachment... .313" diameter
They're all from the same gentleman. I think I'll necksize a coupe and see if they fit. Worth a shot.Yes, any unknown brass can be neck-sized and trial chambered...just one or two pieces (don't waste your time on a few hundred, if they end up needing more work). You don't know what chamber(s) these pick ups come from, but if they chamber smoothly as is, the neck-sizing will give you adequate tension to seat bullets and then you should be golden.
Obviously, if 100 pieces of brass came from 100 different rifles, I'd check them all or simply F.L. resize initially and then neck-size as required once fired from your rifle.
Did you check to see if there’s debris/brass shavings stuck inside the primer plug assembly? That’s the part that pushes the primer into the case. I’ve had debris get stuck in there which then doesn’t allow it to remain flush/below the primer tray. The tray then can’t fully retract.
Is the little primer tray spring stretched too long?
I may be misunderstanding what your issue is with the primer feed.
If your looking for a straight bore, wood isn't really the answer. Sounds like you were lapping under power, pushed too hard and not enough lube mixed in. You don't really need flats, just a very slight taper to lead it in. Also helps if one particular lap isn't going to open the bore more than .001 and if your using clover 400 grit, it will cut .001 over the size of the lapAnd that is where the patience problem started - I didn't have a wood dowel that I could turn down and split so I used steel and filed a couple of small flats to hold compound. Was working well until it grabbed and galled the bore.
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Also finished sizing and lubing a whole pile of 45's and 500's.
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Busy night tonight, cast some 38's, hi-tek coated, and sized.
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Also finished sizing and lubing a whole pile of 45's and 500's.
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I also found a use for the stupid dripping lee pot, lead sculpture! I think I'm going to give it a clear coat and use it as a paperweight!
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You're not kidding about a lot of lead, seems like I cast 20 and my 10# pot is empty. I used Lil' Gun but only shot a few, so far so good.Lot of lead in those 500's. What are you using for powder for .500?