Used brass

[IDPA Mike]

I was at a gun range with a fellow shooter.
There were 2 -5 gallon buckets of brass.
I was told I could take it and I have since sorted it.
What degree of scratches,dents or other deformities are acceptable for use in reloading?
Also, when I buy once fired brass, how do I know that it is?
Still have not reloaded my 1st round yet.
Still getting all the supply's 1st

Thanks Mike

 

[DukeInFlorida]

The degree of dings and dents that are acceptable will come to you in time. It's hard to describe in some exact way. The deep dents typically won't work, especially case mouth edges. Any severe bends there will just end up as cracks. Deep dents on the sides should also get culled out.

Picking up range brass, and sorting it is the first of many times in the life of a case when you will look it over. So, when you reform the brass (resize), you need to look it over again, and get a sense for what dents fixed themselves, and which didn't.

Part of my reloading class is a bag of range brass, mostly stuff to cull out, which I give to the students to sort through. There is a whole host of issues in the mix: splits, dents, bulges, etc, etc. I've even highlighted (with a sharpie) some of the less obvious issues (slight cracks that I caught that some might have missed). They usually get it right when they are done sorting.

If it's your own brass (and presuming that you are able to keep it seperate from all the rest at the range), then it's up to you to keep track of how many reloadings. And, I urge you to develop a system for tracking that which works for you.

If, however, it's random range brass (which is what you are talking about), it's hard to know. I would typically guess that any reloaders would have picked up their brass. So, it's likely that everything in your new found collection is once fired. The color of the primers is sometimes an indication of the first fired nature. Factory loads are typically (but not always) loaded with brass plated (gold color) primers. Reloads are typically done (but not always) with silver colored primers. So, that could be a way to keep them sorted.

Congrats on your find!!! If you need some help with understanding the entire reloading process in detail, my reloading class is a great way to get going. Several here have taken it, and they have spoken highly of it.

 

[Bob J]

I for one can vouch for Duke's reloading class..... Took it several months ago and found it very hands on and well worth the trouble in my estimation....;-)

 

[G3]

+1 for duke. He is very patient. Take his class you wont be disappointed.

 

[Fixxah]

Where's the book Duke?

 

[EddieCoyle]

What degree of scratches,dents or other deformities are acceptable for use in reloading?

What Duke said, but it also depends on caliber, and who was shooting it. Let me explain...

I load over 30 calibers, for some of those, I rarely find discarded cases. One day I thought I hit the lottery. A bunch of IDPA shooters had left a big pile of .38 Super brass. It looked good so I took it home, cleaned, inspected, and loaded it. I noticed that when I was loading it, the primers went in really easy. After loading 100 rounds, I was putting some of the completed rounds in a box and noticed that about a half dozen primers had fallen out! The brass was spent. The primer pockets had been shot loose.

The lesson I learned was "If experienced shooters/reloaders leave the brass, there's probably a reason." In other words, if I leave any .223 cases behind at an NES shoot, don't reload them.

You also learn what to pick up and what to leave. Leave any steel or aluminum cases, anything with an AMERC headstamp, and other stuff you learn with experience. For example, I leave an 9mm with a crimped primer pocket. The reason? There's so much 9mm around that I can afford to leave the cases that require an extra step in preparation.

Also, when I buy once fired brass, how do I know that it is?

You usually can't know for sure unless you're the one who shot it.

On some calibers, there's a dead giveaway: If you find cases (.223, .308, .30-06) with crimped primers, you can be sure that it's once fired because nobody recrimps the primers when they reload.

Another clue is when you find shiny brass all with the same headstamp, and some empty factory boxes in the trash that match the headstamp.

On some calibers, it really doesn't matter. You can reload .45 ACP almost indefinitely - I have some where I can barely read the headstamp. If you find decent looking .45 ACP (or .38 Special, or any other low pressure caliber) you can be pretty sure it will load fine.

 

[swampy]

Whats wrong with AMERC headstamps? The first 500 9mms I ever reloaded were AMERC headstamps and those cases have worked fine through at least 6 more lifecycles. I still have some loaded in the safe.

 

[DukeInFlorida]

Typically, the primer pockets are crappy. But, I have also had success with some of the 9mm AMERC that I have reloaded.

Whats wrong with AMERC headstamps? The first 500 9mms I ever reloaded were AMERC headstamps and those cases have worked fine through at least 6 more lifecycles. I still have some loaded in the safe.

 

[EddieCoyle]

I've never loaded AMERC 9mm but the .38 Special wouldn't fit into the shellholder, I've busted off decapping pins w/.45 ACP because of off-center flash holes, and I had .30 Carbine rounds split upon firing. The .30 Carbines weren't reloads either. I got a good deal on new AMERC ammo and was planning on reloading the brass. It went into the scrap bin instead.

 

[Lugnut]

Whats wrong with AMERC headstamps? The first 500 9mms I ever reloaded were AMERC headstamps and those cases have worked fine through at least 6 more lifecycles. I still have some loaded in the safe.

90% of the time when a case goes thru my press that didn't feel right or jammed up- it was AMERC- it sucks. I've only seen it in 9mm that I can recall.

 

[jhrosier]

Whats wrong with AMERC headstamps? ..

I've seen Amerc .45 colt and .44 mag brass that split on the first firing.
That doesn't speak well of their quality control.

Jack

 

[Finalygotabeltfed]

Along with what DukeinMaine said, also look for damaged rims, especially in rifle brass as they will usually prevent the casing from going into a case guage. Brass that has been walked on, on a hard surfaced range like asphalt can get pretty beat up.

Check for excessive stretching of any bottlenecked rifle brass just above the web. This is indicative of being fired in a gun with excessive headspace or a poorly chambered rifle or a previous hot load being fired in it. When in doubt, throw it out......life and limb aren't worth risking for a few pieces of brass.

Congrats on your find.

EDIT: AMERC BRASS SUCKS.....don't waste your time with it, you'll be disappointed.