Trigger job before or after

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This is a good video but the only problem I have with it is there is no ****ing way an MA M&P trigger is -ONLY- 10 pounds. It's more like 12-15 pounds of gritty, spongy, pure filth. [laugh]

-Mike

You know, you are right about that drgrant. I didn't have a trigger pull gauge and we forgot to measure the before. It was probably closer to 14 pds in my mind, but since I didn't have it measure went with saying 10pds being nice [rolleyes].

Like Smokewagon said, Lou will go over the entire pistol for you and will be there to answer any questions you have...you're not just getting a part, you get Lou's experience as well. Good dude Lou (and I was not paid for this endorsement) [smile]
 
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Go right ahead and get that trigger fixed first. I warned my brother who bought a shield about the trigger, he's new to firearms and had no idea about how bad they are until he shot my m&p done by Greg Derr. His shield is absolutely horrible!!! So long and drawn out, and I can feel how crunchy the friggen thing is.
 
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Thanks for the feedback, I think we are going to get the trigger worked on before shooting it. I'm pretty sure its against some family value to subject ones wife to cruel and unusual Mass triggers.
 

92G

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For an M&P, you'd just be wasting the ammo. They're deplorable out of the box.

agree 100%.

my M&P 9c was the only gun i've ever take to a gunsmith after only like 1 magazine fired...it sucked that bad. also it has a magazine disconnect which I refuse to allow to remain in a firearm, and the M&P 9c annoys me because the mag disconnect is no picnic to remove.

on a separate note, i'm pretty much finished with S&W....too much bull$hit and their CS sucks.

with regards to the OP's shield, I kept my shield in stock form...although the trigger is quite heavy I happen to like it because the reset is palpable/audible and after 300-400 rounds the trigger definitely softens a bit....with the stock trigger pull I don't bother with the manual safety.
 

M&P

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I've heard you can send Ma version so SW to have free state trigger put in. Anyone have experience with this? Is it just a roomer? How does it compare to apex?


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DemonChronicles

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I actually don't mind the trigger on my M&P at all. I was planning on getting an Apex kit, but after taking it out and shooting it, I like it just fine. I might lighten the springs eventually, but it really doesn't bother me like I thought it would.

edit: Mine is an M&P compact built this year - I've heard they may have slightly improved the trigger?

Try one that has had the work done, your opinion will change.


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I think the original MA trigger is dangerous.

I agree. I was at the range one day and a guy and his wife were shooting a stock M&P in the lane next to me. Every once in a while I would hearing a weird metallic "ding." As my own wife was taking a turn shooting, I watched the couple and saw the wife struggling with the trigger so much that she completely shot over the target at less than 10 feet and must have been hitting the ceiling or the rail that targets ride on. I tried to suggest a trigger job, but the guy insisted he liked it. [rolleyes]
 
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M&P

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I fired one box of ammo through a new M&P40c just to have a reference for after the Apex installation.
I think the original MA trigger is dangerous.

I've got a stock M&P9. This was my first personally owned handgun and what I trained myself with for almost a year. Probably 2-3k rounds down range during drills and come concealed carry classes. I actually didn't (and still don't) have a problem with it. In fact I find the recoil to be easily handled (especially with that great beaver tail) with the trigger pull just a bit too heavy. That said, my G19 with a ghost connectors feels much more comfortable - and it's what I shoot and carry most of the time. But I've never felt inaccurate or out of control with the M&P9. My Shield9 is stock and I don't have any issues with that either.

My Bodyguard however - that trigger pull is about a mile long and probably closer to 20lbs.


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45collector

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The only experience I have with any of the M&P series guns is a Shield 9mm a buddy of mine bought not long ago. I took him to the range after he told me he couldn't hit anything with it. I put about 15 rounds through it myself and while I stayed on the paper at 15 yards, it wasn't pretty. I gave him some tips on basic pistol shooting and he could then at least put some rounds on paper but I told him he needs to get a trigger job done on that thing ASAP. I would not carry a pistol with a trigger like that. Ridiculous.

After he fired all his rounds he brought I let him shoot 6 mags through my Ruger MKIII with Volquartsen sear and Bushnell red dot. He was amazed at the groups he was able to get with it. Basic knowledge of how to control a pistol, and a good trigger makes a world of difference.
 

45collector

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The only experience I have with any of the M&P series guns is a Shield 9mm a buddy of mine bought not long ago. I took him to the range after he told me he couldn't hit anything with it. I put about 15 rounds through it myself and while I stayed on the paper at 15 yards, it wasn't pretty. I gave him some tips on basic pistol shooting and he could then at least put some rounds on paper but I told him he needs to get a trigger job done on that thing ASAP. I would not carry a pistol with a trigger like that. Ridiculous.

After he fired all his rounds he brought I let him shoot 6 mags through my Ruger MKIII with Volquartsen sear and Bushnell red dot. He was amazed at the groups he was able to get with it. Basic knowledge of how to control a pistol, and a good trigger makes a world of difference.

ETA: And to add to that, no new shooters that I've know have ever taken my advice to start with a .22 for their first handgun to get their fundamentals down. [laugh]
 
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ETA: And to add to that, no new shooters that I've know have ever taken my advice to start with a .22 for their first handgun to get their fundamentals down. [laugh]

I was thinking about getting a 22 as my first handgun, but I have literally seen 22 only once in stores since I bought my pistol, and that was just a few 100 round boxes at KTP.
 

weehooker

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In Mass, that's a whole different question. My first M&P was a "mass compliant" 45 with a 12+ # trigger. It really felt like the safety was on. I bought the gun knowing that it would never get used unless teh trigger was fixed. I did that one myself using Burwell's online instructions and was quite happy. Apex sear will give you equal results but with allot less effort. Hint. Use an apex sear and the MA factory trigger return spring for a nice 5.5# pull. The 48 state return sprign gives too light of a trigger for anything but a range gun in my opinion.
 

45collector

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I was thinking about getting a 22 as my first handgun, but I have literally seen 22 only once in stores since I bought my pistol, and that was just a few 100 round boxes at KTP.

That is a good point. .22 isn't exactly easy to find right now. Eventually supply will catch up with demand but we'll never see prices come back down to $10/500rnds on the regular. I don't really horde ammo but I am guilty of snatching up .22 whenever I can find it. I have eight guns chambered in .22lr though. [laugh]
 
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Picked up the 9 Shield from the good folks at 1776 Gunsmithing in Walpole. Friendly folks and good turn around time on the work. I ran a quick box of Blazer Brass through it to test it our and it was perfect. My wife will love it and I'm already jealous that I didn't get the 9 instead of the 40. Maybe she'll let me borrow it. [smile]
 
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I agree with everyone else the trigger leaves a lot to be desired. I have been surfing the web for different options to this problem without spending around $90 on a complete Apex trigger. I would like your opinion on these options please.

First can you buy a factory non MA spring kit? If so where?

Second I found different videos on smoothing and polishing to smooth and reduce trigger pull. Also the Apex plunger piece is merely a polished factoy type part which you can do yourself. It takes the grit feel out of the trigger.

Third was a hybrid solution just using the Apex sear for $40 ish with with factory springs. This was on the S&W forum. Doing this knocked the pull down to 4-4.5 lb but I'm assumimg that is with a non MA trigger. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/55...er-357-sig-40-s-and-w-steel?cm_vc=sugv1551730

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
 
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I agree with everyone else the trigger leaves a lot to be desired. I have been surfing the web different options to this problem without spending around $90 on a complete Apex trigger. I would like your opinion on these options please.

First can you buy a factory non MA spring kit?

Second I found different videos on smoothing and polishing to smooth and reduce trigger pull. Also the Apex plunger piece is merely a polished factoy type part which you can do yourself. It takes the grit feel out of the trigger.

Third was a hybrid solution just using the Apex sear for $40 ish with with factory springs. This was on the S&W forum. Doing this knocked the pull down to 4-4.5 lb but I'm assumimg that is with a non MA trigger. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/55...er-357-sig-40-s-and-w-steel?cm_vc=sugv1551730

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
From the reading I have done, it appears that the difference in the ma trigger is in the sear housing block. Midway has these for $24 and as an added bonus the mag safety is missing. I think the ejector needs replaced to use that block ( there are two different ejector versions). I'm thinking of trying it out once it gets back in stock
 
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After watching videos and searching the web I decided to just do the trigger job myself. The rear sight was the worst part. I followed Burwell's guide. http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf Basically reshaping and polishing the striker block, reshaping the sear and polishing the rest. I don't have a trigger scale but I compared it to one with the Apex trigger already in it. The trigger pull was indistinguishable but the Apex had a crisper break. Mine had a little longer take up too. But for zero $$$ and no new parts it's not bad. I will have to research and fine tune.
 
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