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Trigger Guard Roll Pin

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Oct 1, 2007
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Can a trigger guard roll pin be inserted from either side of the lower? Or do the holes taper in one direction? The last one I installed seemed really tight and I cant remember which direction I inserted the prior ones from.
 
yeah, I was a little nervous doing my first one. I had to hit harder than I was comfortable with. Didn't look like it actually fit.

I would put the trigger gaurd in place and back the tab on the far side while beating on it so you don't break the tab off.
 
You can break the lower if you're not careful whn installng the trigger guard pin. (ask me how I know) Secure that lower and back up the opposite side of the pin hole before drifting that pin in.

Chris
 
I wouldn't touch that pin with a hammer.

I use a pair of channel lock pliers and just slide it home like a virgin on prom night.

Believe me after doing it 20-30 times its a cake walk.

In my opinion if you use a hammer and drift punch you are liable to break off the ear on the receiver that the pin goes into.
 
Ive done a few before, but this one is stubborn. I am going to tape of the jaws of a pair of pliers as SemiAutoSam and fbirdquik6 suggested.

This was the first time I built a lower using a real set of drift pins. Makes a HUGE difference in my confidence level when whacking away with the hammer!
 
I just used a regular punch when installing on my three ARs. No issues. Except for the one I put in the wrong hole, which required me to cut off the entire trigger guard and install a new one.
 
Actually that is what I meant to say. Id been using regular pins before and for this one I had roll pins. Made a huge difference.

+1. The problem is the possibility of the punch slipping off the pin and damaging the reciever. The roll pin punch has a small extension that securely holds the punch on the pin, no slip/no damage. I can't believe how long it took me to smarten up and start using these punches.
 
What you really want is a roll pin starter punch, and a roll pin punch. The starter punch has a hole in the end that you insert the roll pin into. It has a slight friction fit and will hold and align it. Once you get it started in the hole, switch to the roll pin punch.

B
 
What you really want is a roll pin starter punch, and a roll pin punch. The starter punch has a hole in the end that you insert the roll pin into. It has a slight friction fit and will hold and align it. Once you get it started in the hole, switch to the roll pin punch.

B

I took a look at those when I was buying the roll pin punches. Id always used a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the pins as I got them started. I wasnt sure that they would be worth the money.
 
They might not be worth it, if you have a good technique of holding them with a pair of pliers. I always drop the damn things all over the place. Especially the small ones. You can probably make them just as easily if you have some brass rod and a drill press and a set of drills.

B
 
Small tip: If you can chamfer one end of the roll pin, it starts in the hole a lot easier. And using a roll pin punch keeps the end from collapsing. One AR I saw had a blind whole on the frame which would not allow the roll pin to be removed if later you wanted to go with a larger winter trigger guard. I suggest drilling out the end of the hole. Greg
 
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