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Tower blind

MGnoob

MGnoob

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Only have two more walls to build, Wait for the windows to show up and decide if im going with spray foam insulation or traditional.
8x8 blind 24’highto blind... 32’ to the roof... roof is good weather hunting maybe archery.

4 windows 72”X12”.... gunna use burn down for the roof.
Was gunna put in woodstove but just going with my mr buddy heater.... definitely gunna have a urinal.


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MGnoob said:
Only have two more walls to build, Wait for the windows to show up and decide if im going with spray foam insulation or traditional.
8x8 blind 24’highto blind... 32’ to the roof... roof is good weather hunting maybe archery.

4 windows 72”X12”.... gunna use burn down for the roof.
Was gunna put in woodstove but just going with my mr buddy heater.... definitely gunna have a urinal.


View attachment 356683


View attachment 356685
Click to expand...

I built mine on a flat rack (Hay wagon without sides) and it’s quite luxurious. I went with spray insulation and a very small unvented radiant heater. The key over my old hooch was I can stand up in the new one and I built it big enough to sleep in. You have made a great investment, deer season is so much better.
 
The spray foam seems too expensive... might have to just insulate with scraps from jobs...
The torchdown/burn down is just what i have on hand and will work great.

i still may go sprayfoam if we insulate our 32x72’ building soon enough.

tempted to go with no insulation... but why skimp out wt this point.
 
You sound like my buddies... i can stand it up with two shoe laces....likely ill use a couple winches or just rope and pully. We have vehicles, tractor/backhoes and such...

Its pretty likely ill do it alone. By hand...

id love to fully assembled the blind then just do legs on site. (Each leg weighs 300lbs)

im just waiting for windows and to decide what im gunna do for insulation... i go back and forth... im tempted to just use old clothes and plastic.... its free, but dont want mold.
 
The videos on youtube are entertaining... im not putting mine up on the edge of a cleared field... so i guess its alittle tricker? But not really...

mine will weigh more then most but even 1500lbs.... thats a joke...

my legs are 24’ 6x6... i got them long just incase im on steep terrain... im gunna trim and level with my chainsaw...

I haven’t picked a definite location... but i geotagged several location last season with snow on the ground ... skat and pussy blood where they bed down.... ive been studying the land most of my life before i even bought it... ill be putting up several of these....

My knee still isnt close to 100% and its never going to get any better... put these up now and enjoy them the rest of my life
 
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Im still waiting on these windows... got a tracking number... ill be writing a review on these, im not very happy. Ill wait until they’re installed before i take the time to right a reasonable review including the corespondece with the company.

Im thinking about not insulating and cutting and putting hinges so i can open up large section of the walls as “murder holes”
I just dont want to erect this thing and not like the vantage from the windows i ordered because of the height of the blind...

i could always take it down...
In hind sight i see why alot of people go with the prefab plastic blinds... but its kind of apples and oranges... I’ll likely have 2-3 more tower blinds... just learn and move forward i guess.
 
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I received the windows..After seeing how they are made I wish I ordered a custom size after waiting six weeks. They really not that great at all. I’m definitely going to make more openings in the sides of it..Because it may end up being very high. Wish I was getting it done but I’m just so tied up with other things. There’s no rush I got plenty of time left
 
Built several shooting blinds at our property in northern MN. We used the $75 set of elevator brackets, with 8’ treated 4x4s. Footprints were either 6x6 or 4x8. Walls were 6’ tall on one side and 7’ on the other (shed roofs). Old window frames on hinges or sliding tracks. No insulation.
About $500 per stand. Kept us out of the wind and a little buddy heater kept it toasty. Urinals were funnels clamped to conduit that went into specially designed leach pit:)
 
45Badger said:
Built several shooting blinds at our property in northern MN. We used the $75 set of elevator brackets, with 8’ treated 4x4s. Footprints were either 6x6 or 4x8. Walls were 6’ tall on one side and 7’ on the other (shed roofs). Old window frames on hinges or sliding tracks. No insulation.
About $500 per stand. Kept us out of the wind and a little buddy heater kept it toasty. Urinals were funnels clamped to conduit that went into specially designed leach pit:)
.
Click to expand...

I’ve done two using elevator brackets. About $600. Used 10 ft 4 x 4 to elevate. I build stairs from PT lumber with hand rails. I’m getting in and out of them in bad weather (snow / ice / sleet. Ugly weather days are best hunting)

Framed windows 36 x 36 RO and used salvaged triple track storm windows.

Since then upgraded windows to single hung vinyl windows ($150 per window new) and added rock woool insulation to go with buddy heater.

Don’t elevate unless terrain forces you to. Our two most productive blinds are same design on ground.

We have sheer camo curtains in windows. Laugh but they work.

We only have windows in three walls. (and side wall windows in front half of wall) so back half of blind has solid walls to keeps critters from seeing your silhouette looking through blind.

Ive taken deer, coyotes, bobcat, MANY turkey (hunt from elevated blind on raining day when I would otherwise stay home)

One safety tip. On elevated blind door should swing in and not be able to swing out.

edited to correct quote funkiness.
 
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