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Thread Protector or Brake for threaded rifle barrel muzzle

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I recently bought a 204 Ruger bull barrel for my AR build and it has a threaded muzzle, this caliber doesn't really need a muzzle brake so I'm considering a thread protector. Has anyone had one of these tack welded onto a stainless barrel? Or would you have a brake welded on instead?
 
Not everyone works with stainless from what I've heard
stainless is done with the same process but not actually welded. 416 stainless shouldn't be welded on, it tends to crack because of high sulphur content, it needs to be TIG brazed with a dab of silicon bronze filler wire.
 
I know it’s not the best aesthetic choice, but would boogering up the threads to the point that nothing could screw on satisfy compliance requirements?
 
Maybe I'll have the threaded area removed then re-crowned, anyone know a Gunsmith near the Cape?
Don't do that. Have a compensator or brake pinned and welded. You will wreck the value of the rifle chopping the barrel like that. Better to leave it in a way that can be converted back to free state status later on or have the muzzle device changed if preferences changes.
 
I recently bought a 204 Ruger bull barrel for my AR build and it has a threaded muzzle, this caliber doesn't really need a muzzle brake so I'm considering a thread protector. Has anyone had one of these tack welded onto a stainless barrel? Or would you have a brake welded on instead?
Why not get a bull barrel with a target crown? Paying someone to turn a new crown sounds like to much to invest in a barrel at that point. Removing the threads only will just look like crap and it will always give you negative thoughts!
204 is not a super common barrel so you might find one in stock with out threads somewhere.
 
Don't do that. Have a compensator or brake pinned and welded. You will wreck the value of the rifle chopping the barrel like that. Better to leave it in a way that can be converted back to free state status later on or have the muzzle device changed if preferences changes.
If done correctly it will just be another bull barrel with a target crown?
 
Just screw on a thread protector and leave it at that. If someone is ever inspecting your firearm to determine whether it's pinned & welded, you likely already have bigger fish to fry than worrying about the muzzle device.
This. Faux weld a pin and tighten it good.
 
I got sick of my brake on my AR and I needed a lighter barrel to pass some match rules,,,,so I got cheap and hacked off the brake/threads and took some meat off the heavy part if the barrel.
 
Maybe I'll have the threaded area removed then re-crowned, anyone know a Gunsmith near the Cape?
I did not have much luck finding anyone down this way. I live in Kingston
I ended up doing my own with the help of someones tools. I had to do the work though. Maybe if your lucky you can catch Greg Derr on a slow week.
 
Just screw on a thread protector and leave it at that. If someone is ever inspecting your firearm to determine whether it's pinned & welded, you likely already have bigger fish to fry than worrying about the muzzle device.
This or a black thread protector would look good ? Then its just a matter of welding up the pin/hole on the cap? I had a 22lr barrel cap pinned and welded by Tactical Solutions came out nice.
 
 
i soldered it myself in 10 min. it is extremely simple and no one ever will be poking at it to inspect the soldering. as long as it is done - it is done.
What did you use ? What type of metal, solder? How hot did you get it
 
What did you use ? What type of metal, solder? How hot did you get it
Just some solder I had, I think it was marked at 470degC. And a loctite.
Brake was predrilled, so I tapped barrel with hand drill just enough to make a small indent - which was totally unnecessary, placed a copper wire piece into a brake hole and poured solder on top. Looks just fine and actually locked it just fine as well.
 
Just some solder I had, I think it was marked at 470degC. And a loctite.
Brake was predrilled, so I tapped barrel with hand drill just enough to make a small indent - which was totally unnecessary, placed a copper wire piece into a brake hole and poured solder on top. Looks just fine and actually locked it just fine as well.
To meet the ATF spec you need to use silver solder that has a melting point above 1100 degrees F (593 digress C) or weld over a hardened steel pin. But as others have said, if the ATF or the police are trying to remove your brake from your gun, you’re already in a lot of trouble.
 
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