If your lucky enough to find Milspec 147gr pulls at a good price (highly unlikely right now) you could potentially shoot .308 for around $0.40 per round including cost of 1x LC brass. Next time round would be cheaper of course.
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
If your lucky enough to find Milspec 147gr pulls at a good price (highly unlikely right now) you could potentially shoot .308 for around $0.40 per round including cost of 1x LC brass. Next time round would be cheaper of course.
Sounds like a pretty shitty product unless you meant swadge diessewage dies
Depends what type of round I'm reloading. My current project is 180gr Barnes TTSX. It's a fairly costly round, $0.74/bullet, $0.20/powder/round and $0.04/primer. That's a really nice hunting round for $0.98 per shot though.
I'm also loading 168gr HPBT Molly rounds for $0.34/bullet, $0.18/powder/round and $0.04/primer. So $0.56/round for ammo that shoots better than Federal Gold Match from my Savage. That's a huge savings.
You can get regular 168gr HPBT typically for $0.27/bullet. So that'll save money. If you're using surplus powder, rather than the RL15 I'm using you can cut powder costs down to about $0.07-0.08/round. So cheap but highly accurate ammo can be made.
Hell if you have a range or personal land that will let you shoot tracer, it can be had for $0.07/bullet. You could be making rounds for less than $0.20/shot.
I shoot a fair amount of .223 tracer now because I have access to a gravel pit on private land and loaded up on it last year when it was dirt cheap. I still have over 3k rounds of it to load.
When things aren't retarded, like they are now, I was buying stuff to reload very accurate m855 for $0.17/rd and 62gr tracer for $0.15/rd which is still cheaper than even buying Tula or Wolf steel case.
For really nice HP ammo you could reload 77gr Sierra HBPT for $0.30-0.35/rd which is an absurd savings over buying something like Black Hills. And you're getting better results.
Just be patient buying stuff for now. Prices and availability will calm down in a few more months. It will take you longer to recoup costs reloading 9mm and .223 than other larger calibers. Not arguing that point, but it will allow you to shoot more and learn a hell of a lot more about how your firearms operate.
ETA: Just browsing around a few places it looks like you can reload Sierra tipped 50gr for about $0.22-0.25/rd when stock catches up.
I'd start off with a kit for a single stage press. Like this one. RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Single Stage Press Kit
And then I'd get in touch with Eddy Coyle about one of his reloading classes. Some will say a single stage press takes too long. But for me, it's just right. As it's more time spent in the garage.
Components are NOT difficult to get, there's just a wait from most vendors. Place your orders now, you'll have enough to load 10k rounds in 10 weeks.
I just started reloading 223 and 308 and I am so glad I saved so much brass. i'm just using a single stage press but I like the setup. I haven't had too hard of a time getting components other than small rifle primers at the moment. I just buy what I can whenever its available it stacks up quick.
Tumbler
Media for tumbler suggest walnut
Polish to add to media
Resizing/decapping die
Lube for cases during resizing. I highly suggest Lanolin and dry gas mixture over commercial types
Primer Pocket Swadger (to remove military crimps)
Case trimmer (bottle neck cartridges, not straight wall pistol)
Debur tool for rim inner and outer, if your trimmer doesn't do it.
Calipers
Powder measure/trickler
Scale that measures in grains to .1
Single Stage/Progressive/turret Press
Table to mount press
A tray to hold rounds during assembly
Powder for your calibers
Primers
Primer tool either hand or accessory for your press
Bullets
Bullet seating die
Crimp die if wanted
Media to tumble finished rounds to remove lube, suggest corn cob(prevents stuck cases)
A pen and labels to mark your ammo! Critical and easily overlooked especially when you're doing multiple calibers/loads. Personally I also keep a full set of colored Sharpies and mark cases when loading batches so I know which is which even after shooting them so I can double check for over pressure and identify which load they came from.
I think that's a decently complete list. You could add certain things like a headspace gage, but I load all my ammo to mag length.
As for specific equipment I'm using:
Hornady dies sets for .223 and .308
Lee 4 hole turret press and a Hornady Classic Press
RCBS Chargemaster 1500 combo
Giraud Trimmer
RCBS tumbler
Lee factory crimp dies
RCBS primer swadging die
Lee auto prime XR hand primer
If you we're to buy one thing that was expensive, it's the Giraud hands down. Second would be the Chargemaster, which you could always just buy the scale itself first and add the trickler later.
Those two things will save you countless hours even if you skimp everywhere else.
I cannot emphasize enough that if you are reloading rifle cases the Giraud isn't just worth every penny, I'd have paid more for it. It turns a tedious multistep procedure into literally a 2 second push and done thing. Trims chamfers and deburs in one step.
I was trying to choose Lee dies for .223 (bolt action rifle) and got into a few questions. I saw the following two Lee Die sets:
Package 1: The Lee Precision Deluxe .223 3-Die Rifle Set (Grey) includes (1) Full Length Sizing Die (2) Dead Length Bullet Seating Die (3) Collet Die which sizes the neck,
Package 2: The Lee Precision Pacesetter .223 Dies (Red) includes (1) Full Length Sizing Die (2) Bullet Seating Die (3)Factory Crimp Die
I will be reloading .223 Rem for a bolt action rifle. I thought that both Collect Die and Crimp Die are useful but they do not come in the same package. Here are my questions:
(1) Should I purchase Package 1 and purchase another Crimp Die ($15.8) separately?
(2) Which of the dies is the powder expanding die? (I thought that it must be one of the dies in the package)
(3) Since Lee die packages include a shellholder for use in the press, does anyone know if that shellholder fit in the RCBS priming tool? (I read online that it does fit in RCBS press but may not fit in the priming tool).
Thanks very much in advance!
You want package two. You don't need the collet die, just full length resize. My opinion is you'll gain more accuracy using the factory crimp die to even out neck tension than you can gain just pushing the shoulder back. Also only pushing the shoulder back is only an option on brass fired from your gun that will only be fired again in that specific gun.
Eddie Coyle can give much more experience on this, but I know he pushes RCBS small base dies pretty regularly and recommended I only FL size my .308 brass, which I do and the ammo far out performs me.
Not sure what you mean by "powder expanding die". If you're using a Lee Auto-Disk setup you will need this universal charging die:
Universal Charging Die - Lee Precision
And possibly the riser:
Auto Disk Riser - Lee Precision
If you're filling cases by hand just get a small funnel or use your fingers and a nice metal dish with a spout. I use the pan from my Chargemaster and my fingers to do all my hand powder loads, no funnel. I use the auto disk on my turret press and it works fine +/-.2grains. Which is fine for plinking ammo.
The shell holder works only on presses, and will work with any press. It will not work on a primer, they use different shell holders with a flat base. You'll have to buy that separate.
Thanks xtry51. I will consider Package 2 as you suggested. For the "powder expanding die", I think that I messed up between progressive press and manual press. I am looking at Single stage RCBS press so the powder goes into the case manually, not through a die. Sorry for this stupid question. For question 3, I understand your answer but still confused. The RCBS manual priming tool can use the same shellholder as the press (see here), and a shellholder for press is universal (can fit all a few/all brands of press), this make me think that the shellholder for priming tool and press are the interchangeable. I must have missed something?
Is it worth buying all the equipment to start reloading or are all the components ie. brass powder and primers just as hard to find as ammo these days.
Unless you want to get into it for the sake of it, I'd hold off for now.
Posted from my car phone.
Regardless of the availability today, reloading is worth it. So next time there is a shortage you are happy as a clam.