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Thinking of reloading

If your lucky enough to find Milspec 147gr pulls at a good price (highly unlikely right now) you could potentially shoot .308 for around $0.40 per round including cost of 1x LC brass. Next time round would be cheaper of course.
 
If your lucky enough to find Milspec 147gr pulls at a good price (highly unlikely right now) you could potentially shoot .308 for around $0.40 per round including cost of 1x LC brass. Next time round would be cheaper of course.

Thanks. This number (i.e., $0.40) helps me understand a lot...
 
Depends what type of round I'm reloading. My current project is 180gr Barnes TTSX. It's a fairly costly round, $0.74/bullet, $0.20/powder/round and $0.04/primer. That's a really nice hunting round for $0.98 per shot though.

I'm also loading 168gr HPBT Molly rounds for $0.34/bullet, $0.18/powder/round and $0.04/primer. So $0.56/round for ammo that shoots better than Federal Gold Match from my Savage. That's a huge savings.

You can get regular 168gr HPBT typically for $0.27/bullet. So that'll save money. If you're using surplus powder, rather than the RL15 I'm using you can cut powder costs down to about $0.07-0.08/round. So cheap but highly accurate ammo can be made.

Hell if you have a range or personal land that will let you shoot tracer, it can be had for $0.07/bullet. You could be making rounds for less than $0.20/shot.

I shoot a fair amount of .223 tracer now because I have access to a gravel pit on private land and loaded up on it last year when it was dirt cheap. I still have over 3k rounds of it to load.

Thanks for the break-down info. It is exactly what I was looking for.

I wanted to start with 9mm and .223 rem.
I got 20-round box American eagle Tipped Varmint 50gr .223 for $13 about $0.48 per round. And I got 9mm Ultramax 250-round box for $65 about $0.26 per round.
I am sure these retail ammo are not the best quality ammo. The number are not very encouraging to me in terms of saving money. May be I compared with the cheapest factory ammo?
 
When things aren't retarded, like they are now, I was buying stuff to reload very accurate m855 for $0.17/rd and 62gr tracer for $0.15/rd which is still cheaper than even buying Tula or Wolf steel case.

For really nice HP ammo you could reload 77gr Sierra HBPT for $0.30-0.35/rd which is an absurd savings over buying something like Black Hills. And you're getting better results.

Just be patient buying stuff for now. Prices and availability will calm down in a few more months. It will take you longer to recoup costs reloading 9mm and .223 than other larger calibers. Not arguing that point, but it will allow you to shoot more and learn a hell of a lot more about how your firearms operate.

ETA: Just browsing around a few places it looks like you can reload Sierra tipped 50gr for about $0.22-0.25/rd when stock catches up.
 
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When things aren't retarded, like they are now, I was buying stuff to reload very accurate m855 for $0.17/rd and 62gr tracer for $0.15/rd which is still cheaper than even buying Tula or Wolf steel case.

For really nice HP ammo you could reload 77gr Sierra HBPT for $0.30-0.35/rd which is an absurd savings over buying something like Black Hills. And you're getting better results.

Just be patient buying stuff for now. Prices and availability will calm down in a few more months. It will take you longer to recoup costs reloading 9mm and .223 than other larger calibers. Not arguing that point, but it will allow you to shoot more and learn a hell of a lot more about how your firearms operate.

ETA: Just browsing around a few places it looks like you can reload Sierra tipped 50gr for about $0.22-0.25/rd when stock catches up.

The numbers talk! Thanks for the nice info. I feel very good about my potential reloading project. I'll be patient. I am hoping to get a larger caliber rifle(s) down the road so would be more worthwhile...
 
Components are NOT difficult to get, there's just a wait from most vendors. Place your orders now, you'll have enough to load 10k rounds in 10 weeks.

And the situation won't last - backlogs and turn around times will be back to normal by the fall. Ammo prices aren't going to fall, though.

In other words, get into reloading ASAP. Every box of retail ammo you buy is costing you a 500% markup.
 
Reloading straight walled brass - most handgun ammo - is less laborious. Basically , wash them out and run them through the machine.

Rifle ammo ( especially NATO 5.56 ) requires more time , effort and gear.

I started saving all the brass I was shooting , and learned to reload the 45acp brass. Just doing that allowed me to spend more of my ammo budget on 556 ammo ... Which I saved of course.

Two winters ago I started prepping that rifle brass , about 8 gallons , and dropped the project when Spring came , ... But continued to gather supplies. ...

This winter , during the full retard season I assembled 2500 rounds of rifle ammo. Ad I have a lot of brass left.
 
I'd start off with a kit for a single stage press. Like this one. RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Single Stage Press Kit

And then I'd get in touch with Eddy Coyle about one of his reloading classes. Some will say a single stage press takes too long. But for me, it's just right. As it's more time spent in the garage.

Thanks for the link. It has a great review and there is a $50 rebate comes with it. I like it.
Since I just started looking into reloading. I will need to study what other tools/parts that I would need by understanding their functions. I can't wait to go to my reload training class next month. Thanks again.
 
I just started reloading 223 and 308 and I am so glad I saved so much brass. i'm just using a single stage press but I like the setup. I haven't had too hard of a time getting components other than small rifle primers at the moment. I just buy what I can whenever its available it stacks up quick.
 
I just started reloading 223 and 308 and I am so glad I saved so much brass. i'm just using a single stage press but I like the setup. I haven't had too hard of a time getting components other than small rifle primers at the moment. I just buy what I can whenever its available it stacks up quick.

Can you provide a list of "all" equipment and tools/parts that you purchased to do the job? Links or model numbers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
Tumbler
Media for tumbler suggest walnut
Polish to add to media
Resizing/decapping die
Lube for cases during resizing. I highly suggest Lanolin and dry gas mixture over commercial types
Primer Pocket Swadger (to remove military crimps)
Case trimmer (bottle neck cartridges, not straight wall pistol)
Debur tool for rim inner and outer, if your trimmer doesn't do it.
Calipers
Powder measure/trickler
Scale that measures in grains to .1
Single Stage/Progressive/turret Press
Table to mount press
A tray to hold rounds during assembly
Powder for your calibers
Primers
Primer tool either hand or accessory for your press
Bullets
Bullet seating die
Crimp die if wanted
Media to tumble finished rounds to remove lube, suggest corn cob(prevents stuck cases)
A pen and labels to mark your ammo! Critical and easily overlooked especially when you're doing multiple calibers/loads. Personally I also keep a full set of colored Sharpies and mark cases when loading batches so I know which is which even after shooting them so I can double check for over pressure and identify which load they came from.

I think that's a decently complete list. You could add certain things like a headspace gage, but I load all my ammo to mag length.

As for specific equipment I'm using:
Hornady dies sets for .223 and .308
Lee 4 hole turret press and a Hornady Classic Press
RCBS Chargemaster 1500 combo
Giraud Trimmer
RCBS tumbler
Lee factory crimp dies
RCBS primer swadging die
Lee auto prime XR hand primer

If you we're to buy one thing that was expensive, it's the Giraud hands down. Second would be the Chargemaster, which you could always just buy the scale itself first and add the trickler later.

Those two things will save you countless hours even if you skimp everywhere else.

I cannot emphasize enough that if you are reloading rifle cases the Giraud isn't just worth every penny, I'd have paid more for it. It turns a tedious multistep procedure into literally a 2 second push and done thing. Trims chamfers and deburs in one step.
 
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Well...for anyone thinking about "getting into reloading"...I am going to go ahead and share this last week. I have been shooting for 35 years....and doing what I refer to as "serious hobby gunsmith work for the last 20"....to the point that I already have an FFL Type 71...and an SOT 2 filed. Location is Cook County, IL..not as severe as MA but worse than many. Have been reloading .45ACP on an older than dirt Lee press since the flood. This week I kicked the game up...Hornady LNL Ammo Plant with all of the automated feeders for 9MM, .40S&W, .45ACP, 5.56x45, and 7.62x51, and a second press...Redding Ultramag for .338LM.....all of the dies are three die sets...Redding Titanium Carbide National Match or Competition whichever was available, additional Redding BR30 and LR1000, Redding 2400 trimmer, plus all of the small goodies, and back ordered projectiles, brass and powder to be able to do 3K rounds in each caliber but for .338LM for which 500 is enough when projectiles are 89 cents each and brass is $2.69/round. Don't ask about powder backlog....you could lose your mind...plus the hoops to jump through for powder storage > 50 lbs...and stipulate commercial location and zoning...it might be easier to own a functional mortar.

While I have a deep stash in each caliber.....who knows what the future is going to bring....as such the decision is....if brass is saved, besides cost savings, the ability to have input into ammo availability has become a priority.
 
Tumbler
Media for tumbler suggest walnut
Polish to add to media
Resizing/decapping die
Lube for cases during resizing. I highly suggest Lanolin and dry gas mixture over commercial types
Primer Pocket Swadger (to remove military crimps)
Case trimmer (bottle neck cartridges, not straight wall pistol)
Debur tool for rim inner and outer, if your trimmer doesn't do it.
Calipers
Powder measure/trickler
Scale that measures in grains to .1
Single Stage/Progressive/turret Press
Table to mount press
A tray to hold rounds during assembly
Powder for your calibers
Primers
Primer tool either hand or accessory for your press
Bullets
Bullet seating die
Crimp die if wanted
Media to tumble finished rounds to remove lube, suggest corn cob(prevents stuck cases)
A pen and labels to mark your ammo! Critical and easily overlooked especially when you're doing multiple calibers/loads. Personally I also keep a full set of colored Sharpies and mark cases when loading batches so I know which is which even after shooting them so I can double check for over pressure and identify which load they came from.

I think that's a decently complete list. You could add certain things like a headspace gage, but I load all my ammo to mag length.

As for specific equipment I'm using:
Hornady dies sets for .223 and .308
Lee 4 hole turret press and a Hornady Classic Press
RCBS Chargemaster 1500 combo
Giraud Trimmer
RCBS tumbler
Lee factory crimp dies
RCBS primer swadging die
Lee auto prime XR hand primer

If you we're to buy one thing that was expensive, it's the Giraud hands down. Second would be the Chargemaster, which you could always just buy the scale itself first and add the trickler later.

Those two things will save you countless hours even if you skimp everywhere else.

I cannot emphasize enough that if you are reloading rifle cases the Giraud isn't just worth every penny, I'd have paid more for it. It turns a tedious multistep procedure into literally a 2 second push and done thing. Trims chamfers and deburs in one step.

Thanks for the detailed list and the final advise. I would pay for your posting (if you asked :)).
 
If you're going to do any volume of rifle brass get the Giraud trimmer. I'm working on prepping a batch of 4K brass that I'd bought at MFL some time ago and without the Giraud it just would never get done. The thing is a godsend.

To have those days back again... MFL was selling RORG head stamp brass for 4 cents each. Wish I'd bought a truckload. But hindsight has 20/20 vision.

And even with the Giraud prepping rifle brass is a PITA. It takes time... lots of time.

- Clean brass in tumbler
- Lube brass
- Run through decapping/resizing die
- Clean brass in tumbler again to remove lube
- Trim, chamfer and debur (Giraud gizmo)

Some add additional steps too... like cleaning/reaming the primer pockets.

2500 done, 1500 to go. Then it all needs to be loaded... YIKES! But in times like this when ammo is so hard to get reloading is a great "hobby".
 
I was trying to choose Lee dies for .223 (bolt action rifle) and got into a few questions. I saw the following two Lee Die sets:

Package 1: The Lee Precision Deluxe .223 3-Die Rifle Set (Grey) includes (1) Full Length Sizing Die (2) Dead Length Bullet Seating Die (3) Collet Die which sizes the neck,
Package 2: The Lee Precision Pacesetter .223 Dies (Red) includes (1) Full Length Sizing Die (2) Bullet Seating Die (3)Factory Crimp Die

I will be reloading .223 Rem for a bolt action rifle. I thought that both Collect Die and Crimp Die are useful but they do not come in the same package. Here are my questions:

(1) Should I purchase Package 1 and purchase another Crimp Die ($15.8) separately?
(2) Which of the dies is the powder expanding die? (I thought that it must be one of the dies in the package)
(3) Since Lee die packages include a shellholder for use in the press, does anyone know if that shellholder fit in the RCBS priming tool? (I read online that it does fit in RCBS press but may not fit in the priming tool).

Thanks very much in advance!
 
I was trying to choose Lee dies for .223 (bolt action rifle) and got into a few questions. I saw the following two Lee Die sets:

Package 1: The Lee Precision Deluxe .223 3-Die Rifle Set (Grey) includes (1) Full Length Sizing Die (2) Dead Length Bullet Seating Die (3) Collet Die which sizes the neck,
Package 2: The Lee Precision Pacesetter .223 Dies (Red) includes (1) Full Length Sizing Die (2) Bullet Seating Die (3)Factory Crimp Die

I will be reloading .223 Rem for a bolt action rifle. I thought that both Collect Die and Crimp Die are useful but they do not come in the same package. Here are my questions:

(1) Should I purchase Package 1 and purchase another Crimp Die ($15.8) separately?
(2) Which of the dies is the powder expanding die? (I thought that it must be one of the dies in the package)
(3) Since Lee die packages include a shellholder for use in the press, does anyone know if that shellholder fit in the RCBS priming tool? (I read online that it does fit in RCBS press but may not fit in the priming tool).

Thanks very much in advance!

You want package two. You don't need the collet die, just full length resize. My opinion is you'll gain more accuracy using the factory crimp die to even out neck tension than you can gain just pushing the shoulder back. Also only pushing the shoulder back is only an option on brass fired from your gun that will only be fired again in that specific gun.

Eddie Coyle can give much more experience on this, but I know he pushes RCBS small base dies pretty regularly and recommended I only FL size my .308 brass, which I do and the ammo far out performs me.

Not sure what you mean by "powder expanding die". If you're using a Lee Auto-Disk setup you will need this universal charging die:
Universal Charging Die - Lee Precision
And possibly the riser:
Auto Disk Riser - Lee Precision

If you're filling cases by hand just get a small funnel or use your fingers and a nice metal dish with a spout. I use the pan from my Chargemaster and my fingers to do all my hand powder loads, no funnel. I use the auto disk on my turret press and it works fine +/-.2grains. Which is fine for plinking ammo.

The shell holder works only on presses, and will work with any press. It will not work on a primer, they use different shell holders with a flat base. You'll have to buy that separate and I believe they are brand specific.

Press shell holder:
326468.jpg


Primer Shell Holder:
753641.jpg
 
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You want package two. You don't need the collet die, just full length resize. My opinion is you'll gain more accuracy using the factory crimp die to even out neck tension than you can gain just pushing the shoulder back. Also only pushing the shoulder back is only an option on brass fired from your gun that will only be fired again in that specific gun.

Eddie Coyle can give much more experience on this, but I know he pushes RCBS small base dies pretty regularly and recommended I only FL size my .308 brass, which I do and the ammo far out performs me.

Not sure what you mean by "powder expanding die". If you're using a Lee Auto-Disk setup you will need this universal charging die:
Universal Charging Die - Lee Precision
And possibly the riser:
Auto Disk Riser - Lee Precision

If you're filling cases by hand just get a small funnel or use your fingers and a nice metal dish with a spout. I use the pan from my Chargemaster and my fingers to do all my hand powder loads, no funnel. I use the auto disk on my turret press and it works fine +/-.2grains. Which is fine for plinking ammo.

The shell holder works only on presses, and will work with any press. It will not work on a primer, they use different shell holders with a flat base. You'll have to buy that separate.

Thanks xtry51. I will consider Package 2 as you suggested. For the "powder expanding die", I think that I messed up between progressive press and manual press. I am looking at Single stage RCBS press so the powder goes into the case manually, not through a die. Sorry for this stupid question. For question 3, I understand your answer but still confused. The RCBS manual priming tool can use the same shellholder as the press (see here), and a shellholder for press is universal (can fit all a few/all brands of press), this make me think that the shellholder for priming tool and press are the interchangeable. I must have missed something?
 
Thanks xtry51. I will consider Package 2 as you suggested. For the "powder expanding die", I think that I messed up between progressive press and manual press. I am looking at Single stage RCBS press so the powder goes into the case manually, not through a die. Sorry for this stupid question. For question 3, I understand your answer but still confused. The RCBS manual priming tool can use the same shellholder as the press (see here), and a shellholder for press is universal (can fit all a few/all brands of press), this make me think that the shellholder for priming tool and press are the interchangeable. I must have missed something?

If that one does use the normal shell holder, than yes it will work. I don't have that specific hand primer. I have two Lee's both the older and newer Auto Prime.
 
Unless you want to get into it for the sake of it, I'd hold off for now.

Posted from my car phone.

Just ordered a RCBS Rock Chucker reloading kit. Will need to research and order the remaining a dozen or so tools.

A new reloader is on his way...
 
I don't crimp 5.56 at all. Maybe if I brushed out the necks it would matter but I use SS media so I doudt it would make a difference. The cases look like brand new anyway.
 
For 9mm Luger, is it recommended to crimp the bullets? Thanks.

I ordered RCBS Carbide Three-Die Set Taper Crimp 9mm Luger 3-Die set and the seater die has a taper crimping feature built-in.

Product Information
Made from polished and heat-treated steel, the RCBS Carbide 3-Die Set has a Sizer Die with Decapping Unit, Expander Die for expanding and belling the case mouth and a Seater Die for seating and crimping the bullet (Straight wall cases will roll crimp, unless the description indicates it has a taper crimp). No sizing lube is needed with these carbide dies.
 
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