thinking of bead blasting my revolver

[marleythefish]

hi all,

i have a ruger super redhawk and think it would be cool with a bead blast finish. Any thoughts? is there someone around the north shore that anyone would recommend? what might it cost? thanks in advance

 

[warwickben]

What metal is the gun made from?
If it's not stainless I wouldn't do it.

 

[saltydude]

Even if it's stainless I wouldn't do it. It might look cool right out of the blaster but it will still oxidize. I bet just handling the surface (barrel for instance) will discolor it from the oils & acids in your hands almost right away.

A brushed or polished finish will resist oxidation 10X over a bare blasted surface.

 

[marleythefish]

hmmm, it is stainless, ive seen bead blasted handguns before, ill have to do more research.isnt my sr1911 a bead blast finish?

 

[whacko]

Ive heard bead blasted stainless is a bitch to clean....oily fingerprints stand out.

 

[Sweeney]

I bead blasted a S&W 629. In my opinion it was better in every way.



I haven't done my Dan Wesson 744 or 715 yet as I'm happy with the current state of the finish.

 

[marleythefish]

I bead blasted a S&W 629. In my opinion it was better in every way.



I haven't done my Dan Wesson 744 or 715 yet as I'm happy with the current state of the finish.

now thats what im looking for

 

[peterthefish]

My 627 PC, 986, and 929 are bead blasted. A little more prone to rusting than the brushed smiths but worth it.

 

[greencobra]

i've done 2 stainless guns, a ruger speed six and a smith talo 629. no issues with discoloration or fingerprints and it's been about 18months. love the look. the guy who did them warned me to wipe them down once in a while but still no sign of oxidation. wouldn't hesitate to do another if the need showed itself. my speed six, sorry, crappy photo.

 

[edmxz2002]

I like the way it looks. I would do it.

 

[marleythefish]

i've done 2 stainless guns, a ruger speed six and a smith talo 629. no issues with discoloration or fingerprints and it's been about 18months. love the look. the guy who did them warned me to wipe them down once in a while but still no sign of oxidation. wouldn't hesitate to do another if the need showed itself. my speed six, sorry, crappy photo.


View attachment 151071

wow, thats very nice.

 

[38ExtraSpecial]

Just make sure it's ceramic bead blasting and not aluminum oxide or something else.
The aluminum oxide cuts and leaves a rough finish that gives bastion a bad rep with stainless. The ceramic beads more or less give a light peening to the surface to give a nice matte look without all the oxidation issues.
I've seen sandblasted S30V blades rust super easy, and I've seen glass blasted S30V blades that were use daily and never cleaned with no issues.

 

[fishhawk357]

I wouldn't mind trying this out myself but can't find a local source for fine glass bead. I have used the glass bead media from harbor freight in the past but it leaves the surface to rough for my liking. Not good for firearms I don't think.

 

[marleythefish]

ok, so far ive learned that step 1= i have to disassemble the gun, plug the cyl and barrel with foam earplugs, tape off the internals, use new ceramic media, step 2=who has the blaster?

 

[Sweeney]

ok, so far ive learned that step 1= i have to disassemble the gun, plug the cyl and barrel with foam earplugs, tape off the internals, use ceramic media, step 2=who has the blaster?

Yes, protect anything on which you don't want the surface altered. There is a great difference between bead blasting and abrasive blasting. Bead blasting peens the surface using glass or metal spheres. Abrasive blasting utilizes particles with angular surfaces and removes material.

Just get it glass bead blasted.

 

[84ta406]

I have a blaster at work and we use a fine glass bead but I would be very leary to use it on a gun lol. Ive done a few things for people here but never a firearm itself. I can get you a sample of the finish if you would like.

 

[DW357]

Lou at Business End Customs bead blasts 1911's. Not sure if he will do revolvers. I'd email him just to see what he says.

I can't believe you want to bead blast the SRH! You had it so nice and shiny when I shot it almost a year ago. Just noticed I still have a photo of it on my phone lol.
View attachment 151096

 

[Wadcutter]

It seems like an odd choice, reducing the corrosion resistance for the sake of cosmetics, but it's your money. I'd look for a shop that know how to both bead blast and passivate afterwards. I believe S&W using this process on their matter revolvers, but I'm not 100% sure.

Make sure they are using fresh media.

 

[DW357]

I didn't realize the finish is more vulnerable to corrosion with bead blasting. I'll have to rethink bead blasting my Dan Wesson PM9. What about hard chrome?

 

[marleythefish]

im still considering it, thanks andrew ill send an email to Lou and see what he says. im not really concerned about corrosion as i am meticulous and clean all my handguns very frequently. you are all very helpfull, thank you

 

[*chris*]

I wouldn't mind trying this out myself but can't find a local source for fine glass bead. I have used the glass bead media from harbor freight in the past but it leaves the surface to rough for my liking. Not good for firearms I don't think.

Here you go, they have EVERYTHING.

http://www.dawson-macdonald.com/index.html

You are going to need something really fine at a really low pressure.

What are you going to do about the roll marks?

I personally don't like a bead blast finish and simply think it was a cost-cutting measure by Smith and Wesson. If you actually shoot your guns, the powder burns are impossible to clean off without a lot of elbow grease. The only think I hate more than a best blasted finsish is the stupid titanium cylinders that S&W puts on some guns.

Thankfully I got them to swap in a stainless steel cylinder on my S&W 357

Chris

 

[jaymce]

I didn't realize the finish is more vulnerable to corrosion with bead blasting. I'll have to rethink bead blasting my Dan Wesson PM9. What about hard chrome?

Depends.

1st you need to know what type of stainless. As I understand it stainless gains it's ability to resist rust from its oxidation. once blasted you have removed the oxidation. Knowing what type of stainless is used can allow you to find the process needed to replace the oxide layer if it in fact needs replacement.

You could also hit it with WD40 which will alter the color of the blasted finish but help to reduce printing and aid in cleaning while protecting the stainless from moisture etc.

 

[*chris*]

I didn't realize the finish is more vulnerable to corrosion with bead blasting.

Do you have a source for that? Doesn't sound right. Of course, bead blasting removes the oxide layer that was present, but given some time, it will reestablish itself and continue to protect the metal. Bead blasted gun alloy stainless shouldn't rust.

All this goes out the window if the stainless has a surface finish treatment.

Chris

 

[DERBIS]

I love the bead blast look. With that said...

One thing to note is that scratches are very difficult to touch-up. You basically need to re-finish the whole surface, after you chase the scratch, ding, gouge.

Oh and high traffic spots (i.e. holster wear marks) will turn to a polished surface in no time, requiring tough up if you still like the bead-blast finish.

If its a safe queen, DO IT. If not, its up to you.

 

[Wadcutter]

Do you have a source for that? Doesn't sound right. Of course, bead blasting removes the oxide layer that was present, but given some time, it will reestablish itself and continue to protect the metal. Bead blasted gun alloy stainless shouldn't rust.

All this goes out the window if the stainless has a surface finish treatment.

Chris

+1. Passsivation is a required step after bead blasting to improve the corrosion resistance. Of course if you keep your stainless guns oiled up you may not notice. Personally I like stainless precisely because it doesn't need as much maintenance.

 

[DW357]

Do you have a source for that? Doesn't sound right. Of course, bead blasting removes the oxide layer that was present, but given some time, it will reestablish itself and continue to protect the metal. Bead blasted gun alloy stainless shouldn't rust.

All this goes out the window if the stainless has a surface finish treatment.

Chris

Maybe I misunderstood Wadcutters's post (#18) about it reducing the corrosion resistance? I was asking not saying it was a fact.

 

[greencobra]

Personally I like stainless precisely because it doesn't need as much maintenance.

what maintenance? do you wipe your stuff down every so often after shooting? all the maintenance you need. corrosion is what "could" happen, doesn't mean it will. you guru's of the bead blast, any personal experience with your gun staining, corroding or rusting? mine haven't.

 

[peterthefish]

My bead blasted S&Ws rust easier than my brushed ones. But I ride them hard and put them away wet. Remembering to wipe them after shooting ought to be enough.

 

[Wadcutter]

what maintenance? do you wipe your stuff down every so often after shooting?

God no. I mostly shoot Glocks and Stainless S&W revolvers and they revel in powder residue like pigs in mud. The only guns I keep clean often are the ones I use for carry and hunting.