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The Iver Johnson Cycle Model

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I picked this up this Safety Automatic this past week for $50 as my Iver Johnson collection begins to grow. What makes this nicer, as I have found out after purchasing it, is that it is a first model, third variation but with the rarer 2 inch barrel which was marketed as the "Cycle Model" as its small size made it easily carried by cyclists. It was made in 1896 and and is in 32 S&W. It is in functioning condition as well and would be safe to shoot although I will most likely never shoot it. Thanks for looking.

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Ironic that the gun was made for cyclist...... Im a cyclist and when I wear anything that mentions guns I get dirty looks!!!

cool piece!
 
Gotta' love the Owl and all the Curly-Q's molded into the Gutta-Percha Grips !

Of course in those days Cyclists needed protection.

In modern times everyone is so civilized, and assaults so rare, that the need to carry protection is greatly diminished [laugh].
 
I got one wish I could get it fixed . I know nothing about revolers :/

They are fun guns to own,and when in good condition alot of fun to shoot.Fixing it has to be a labor of love,because it will cost more than the gun is worth.A common problem with them is they get out of timing,and you start shaving lead.That can become very dangeres.
 
They are fun guns to own,and when in good condition alot of fun to shoot.Fixing it has to be a labor of love,because it will cost more than the gun is worth.A common problem with them is they get out of timing,and you start shaving lead.That can become very dangeres.

They must be Black Powder - right ?
 
These firearms were made for many years,from the black powder era to the smokeless powder one.
 
They must be Black Powder - right ?

Patron is correct. The early models were made for black powder and the later models for smokeless. Most of them were made with the nickel finish but blue was available as an add on feature. This is the reason why so many of these are in such bad condition finish wise, the combination of nickel plate and black powder often led to the finish flaking and the cast metal underneath rusting.

I think, going from memory, the change over to smokeless powder was sometime around 1905 but I will have to check later and see how correct that date was. These IJ top break safety automatic pistols were made from 1993 until 1941 so there are many variations and many different models.

The easiest way to ID if a gun was made for black powder is to check the grips, assuming they are original. If the owl is facing the way it is on this cycle model... mostly downrange, then it is black powder. If the owl is facing down towards the grip screw, then it is a smokeless model. If you are unsure that the grips are original then just remove the grips and look at the main spring. The black powder model used a bent leaf spring and the smokeless models used a recoil rod with a spring wrapped around it.

I have acquired a number of different models since this one and someday I will have to do an updated post. They are cheap and easier to find than milsurps and I believe are currently very undervalued from a monetary and a collectability sense. (I remember not all that long ago people laughed at the idea of collecting Mosin Nagants and SKS's) But these are fun to find and learn about all the variations and history. I have not branched out into H&R or other types of break open pistols but am trying to stick with the IJ line. But I have started a spur trigger branch of the collection.
 
I collected Woodworking Tools for many years.

In fact, in many cases the same Factories that were spitting out Guns on one end were shipping Tools from the other.

When you start with Iron or Steel, and wish to Nickel or Chrome it, you can do so directly. But the adhesion will be poor. The Plating will not last long.

If you wish to invest more into the product, you use an intermediate layer of Copper between the Iron and Nickel. The result will be much more durable.

But as a cheaply Plated Product looks the same when new, many manufacturers did skip the important step of using a Copper Intermediate.
 
I collected Woodworking Tools for many years.

In fact, in many cases the same Factories that were spitting out Guns on one end were shipping Tools from the other.

When you start with Iron or Steel, and wish to Nickel or Chrome it, you can do so directly. But the adhesion will be poor. The Plating will not last long.

If you wish to invest more into the product, you use an intermediate layer of Copper between the Iron and Nickel. The result will be much more durable.

But as a cheaply Plated Product looks the same when new, many manufacturers did skip the important step of using a Copper Intermediate.

Goof info.. thanks ....
 
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