Back in 2000 when my wife and I went to India, we were shopping for the rug that is in our diningroom. Unless you go to a government run shop for crafts, the only way you will find a reasonable price is to haggle. We spent all day in Agra visiting one rug dealer after another and not finding the quality we wanted at a price we wanted. We finally told one of the dealers "It isn't the price, I'm looking for something exceptional and frankly I have not seen it."
After some further discussion, much of it in Hindi, the 'owner' of the shop told me that he had a place we could get the rug we wanted. We were to follow him and he'd show us.
Now, I was fairly concerned about this as you hear a lot about tourists being lured into dangerous situations.
Turned out that he was going to a large 'factory'.
On arriving, he spoke to a few people (again in Hindi) and then we were ushered into a very well appointed room and offered bottled water, etc.
One by one some of the finest rugs we'd seen were brought in. Almost all of them were rejected becuse of certain design elements or colors that didn't match what we wanted. But, as each rug was brought, we pointed out the things we liked.
Finally, A small conversation was held between some of the guys showing us the rugs and the guy in charge said "I know what you want. Follow"
He took us onto the 'floor' of the building where rugs of all kinds were being worked on. Mostly having the ends hand tied, but also washing and even some repairs. All by hand. Hundreds of men and women and not a machine to be seen.
We crossed the floor and into a storeroom filled from floor to ceiling with rugs strapped to palets and what I assumed were rugs packed in burlap to be shipped.
Over along the loading bays, the guys were pulling rugs out of a pile.
And there it was. Exactly what we had been looking for.
I'd say it was probably 4 in the afternoon at this point. The guy knew he had us. We made an offer that we knew was reasonable, but slightly lower than what we were prepared to spend. He naturally rejected it. I asked what he had in mind and the price was absolutely CRAZY. He wanted 97,500 rupees (roughly $2000) We again made our offer. He looked offended. We stuck to our price. No argument, no heated words. I simply kept repeating my price and asked if he would sell. He kept returning with a counteroffer. Once the counteroffer came down to the price we were prepared to pay, I simply nodded.
The rug was swarmed by workers to tie off the ends (it had just come in from whoever had woven it and wasn't finished) and the 'manager' offered us refreshments, got us a taxi, made arrangements for dinner at a local place he recommended, and made sure the rug was properly wrapped in plastic and then burlap right there in front of us.
We ended up with a 10x8 100% wool oriental with a very thick nap and high thread count for 45,000 rupees. ($900) After the American Express currency charges it was still under $1000.
If my wife's uncle had not explained the way Indians 'negotiated' I would have never believed it. In fact, i was sure we were going to lose the rug by turning down his offers.
The fact is, if you know the value, you slightly undervalue on your offer, stick with the offer, and then allow the seller to 'win' when they meet your real price. Had our original offer been unacceptable (knowing that it was slightly low) there would have been no negotiation. You would have heard a 'no no' which is a polite way to say "you western boob, don't waste my time". So long as the counter offers keep coming, you are fine with your price and simply need to reach the 'settle' point. It is polite to settle above your price by a few %.
The more valuable the item, the more lengthly the 'negotiation'. I'd hate to buy a car, I've heard that the whole negotiation can take days.
The other thing I learned was that all sales were expecting cash. There is a whole lot of cash transactions that exist "off the books" to avoid taxes. When we went, family were happy to take checks drawn on American banks or solid gold coins in exchange for cash rupees at far better than the exchange rate because it gave them 'legal' money in the form of a non-taxable 'gift' for the not so legal currency.
Was an amazing experience. But after the rug, shopping was fairly easy. Some items I think we guessed wrong when making our offer, and I got a few "no no" responses, but overall once you get a feel for the 'value' of the currency, your gut is not far off.