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The Costs of Reloading

My hesitation is with component cost. Going by star line prices and Internet prices in general, reloading 40 s&w worked out to about 36 cents a round, which doesn't include the cost of the equipment. I haven't witnessed the prices in the OP on 40 caliber (which is what I shoot the most of). 1000 unprinted once fired cases I've seen for 121 dollars. If I could find the components cheaply I'd definitely jump into it.

I haven't really checked any local stores in nh for reloading supplies/prices, are they much cheaper than what I've seen online?

Don't look at new brass prices. 40 is super popular and easy to find. The range is always littered with it and range brass sell cheap on the forums.
Probably for 6-8 cents That will drop your prices way down. Team that up with a 10 cent coated bullet from SNS casting, a 4 cent primer and 1.5 cents of powder and it's not so bad.
Especially when you reload that brass.
First time it costs 21.5 cents to 23.5 cents.
Next reload with that brass is 15.5 cents a round. Buy in bulk and get some deals on components and some range pickings and you can trim that way down.
Start saving your 40 brass and you won't need to buy any. You only need enough at the start to cover a range trip or two.
When I started with 45 I had about 400 pieces of brass.
200 would be loaded and the other 200 would be clean and ready to load when I got back from the range trip.
 
Are there any advantages to buying and using cast lead bullets over copper plated bullets?

The opposite actually. Cast bullets need lube on them and the lube usually causes a lot of smoke when you fire the cartridge. It can get pretty bad at times too if your powder is smokey as well. Also, some guns with polygonal rifling in the barrels can't use lead bullets because of the leading that builds up very quickly (and dangerously) in them. H&K is one that uses this type. I've never found a 40s&w load that worked well for lead, the bullets tended to keyhole after a few mags. Same loads with the same weight plated bullets worked great though. I'll take plated over cast any day.
 
My hesitation is with component cost. Going by star line prices and Internet prices in general, reloading 40 s&w worked out to about 36 cents a round, which doesn't include the cost of the equipment. I haven't witnessed the prices in the OP on 40 caliber (which is what I shoot the most of). 1000 unprinted once fired cases I've seen for 121 dollars. If I could find the components cheaply I'd definitely jump into it.

I haven't really checked any local stores in nh for reloading supplies/prices, are they much cheaper than what I've seen online?

Once fired handgun brass can be had for 30-65 per 1000 shipped. Star line is new and not necessary.


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My hesitation is with component cost. Going by star line prices and Internet prices in general, reloading 40 s&w worked out to about 36 cents a round, which doesn't include the cost of the equipment. I haven't witnessed the prices in the OP on 40 caliber (which is what I shoot the most of). 1000 unprinted once fired cases I've seen for 121 dollars. If I could find the components cheaply I'd definitely jump into it.

I haven't really checked any local stores in nh for reloading supplies/prices, are they much cheaper than what I've seen online?

40SW is probably the only brass I find at my range with out much effort. It seems to be the only brass left in quantity on the ground. If it is picked up you can find it in the trash bucket. All other brass seems to vanish quickly at my range.

I think you need to get the "saving money" thing out of your head. The equipment is a small investment that only will pay for its self in time.
Figure out home much you spent on ammo last month.
Is this your average. In my shooting prime before cost and time where a issue I shot at least 1k rounds of 6 different cals. Each year. From 38spl - 54r .
It was like a average of. 41 cents per round or 2500.00 per year. This was a weak yr. Some years I would piss through 223 and x39.
So with just a little saving by not shooting for a few months you would have enough for a decent start up loading set up. Some frugal savings. Listed are a few things I do to save a few extra bucks for shooting.
1. My credit card pays me from 1-3% cash back for purchases. I always pay my CC in full every month.
This pays me 350.00 yr.
2. I cash in cans. Doesn't take much I find them everywhere. About 7-12$ month
3. I cash in scrap metal. Mostly copper and aluminum
Again not much effort here either last yr was a good yr for not trying hard. 1500.00$
4. Sell stuff on ebay. Almost anything will sell. I have been inactive here for a while. Just to busy to bother.
Buy used stuff. Plenty of it out there.

Reloading takes time. Time you wont get paid for or "save" enough reloading to make up for it.

The gains are
You can load much better ammo for a out the same money as the cheapest steel cased crap.
You can load match grade ammo for about the cost of the least expensive brass ammo (to a point)
You can generally load 2x as much for the cost of factory.
You can Taylor your loads to your needs. I enjoy shooting gallery rifle loads. Light cast loads with pistol like velocity and almost zero recoil.
Think bulk when buying bullets powder or primers.
I shoot about 1k rounds of pistol a yr these days. My loads are small 4 grains average, about 2000 rnds per lb.
I got about 4 yrs worth of powder.
 
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My hesitation is with component cost. Going by star line prices and Internet prices in general, reloading 40 s&w worked out to about 36 cents a round, which doesn't include the cost of the equipment.

Are you taking into account that you can use the brass more than once? Also, like others have said, there's more .40 brass laying on the ground at ranges than any other caliber.

I don't like plated bullets. I've had quality problems with three different manufacturers of plated bullets in three different calibers. I stick to jacketed now with a few cast mixed in.

My favorite part of reloading is that you no longer have to worry about caliber when you buy a firearm. Once you reload, you're pretty much paying by weight.

You can make .38 S&W or .38 Super or 9mm for about the same cost. You can shoot calibers like 10mm, .44 Special, and .460 or .500 Magnum for a small fraction of the cost of factory ammo.
 
Which is why I'm interested to take it up. I'm a big bore fan, 7mm rum, 460, 45-70...someday I'd like to own these, and my only roadblock is ammo cost.

With larger, less common loads like that, is someone going to basically have to buy new brass to start?

About how many times can you fire a casing? I've read some about case trimmers, is it necessary to trim cases after every time they're fired?

As for jacketed bullets, do you get them local? I've seen the huge selection at rileys and shooters outpost, how are the prices on components up there? Decent place to start?

Lots of great info, thanks a lot. Very informative OP, great thread.
 
You CAN buy new brass, but it's easy enough to find it for cheap or free. As for how many times you can use it, it varies, but I've lost brass before it's cracked or split from too much use.

Go to a range and pick through the brass buckets and get it for free.

Worst case cost for .40 S&W? $60 for 1,000 plated bullets, $40 for 1,000 primers and like $15 for the powder. $115 for 1,000 rounds? Still not bad.

Case trimmers are for semi-auto rifles.
 
Which is why I'm interested to take it up. I'm a big bore fan, 7mm rum, 460, 45-70...someday I'd like to own these, and my only roadblock is ammo cost.

With larger, less common loads like that, is someone going to basically have to buy new brass to start?

About how many times can you fire a casing? I've read some about case trimmers, is it necessary to trim cases after every time they're fired?

As for jacketed bullets, do you get them local? I've seen the huge selection at rileys and shooters outpost, how are the prices on components up there? Decent place to start?

Lots of great info, thanks a lot. Very informative OP, great thread.

You'll have to buy brass for the calibers you listed. However, the .460 (if you mean S&W .460) and .45-70 are not that expensive. I've never purchased 7mm RUM.

You should never have to trim a straight-walled case (I've loaded over 100K of them an have never trimmed even one). How much/often you trim a bottle necked rifle case depends in large part how you resize the case, and how you set up your sizing die.

You should be able to get a dozen or so loadings out of your straight-walled brass as long as you don't load it too hot. You should be able to get at least 4 or 5 reloads out of your rifle brass (and for some calibers many more). There are two failure modes for straight-walled brass: It either splits or the primer pockets loosen up. For bottle-neck rifle brass there's those two, plus a third one: Thinning just ahead of the web (which leads to an incipient case head separation).

The pressure, your firearm(s) chambers, and your reloading practices all can affect the life of your brass.
 
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My hesitation is with component cost. Going by star line prices and Internet prices in general, reloading 40 s&w worked out to about 36 cents a round, which doesn't include the cost of the equipment. I haven't witnessed the prices in the OP on 40 caliber (which is what I shoot the most of). 1000 unprinted once fired cases I've seen for 121 dollars. If I could find the components cheaply I'd definitely jump into it.

You should never be paying much for .40 S+W brass... ever... people discard it all over the place. It's almost free.

-Mike
 
I once did an experiment with .303 British, one of the more notorious for case separation due to the cartridge headspacing on the rim and the cut of the chamber. I necksized a Remington case and got 17 full power loads out of it. That is unusual but gives you a good idea how long a case is shootable. You probably won't get a perfect load for that long but shootable nonetheless. I started on .357. How many times do you figure you can shoot one of those? Ask around. The correct answer is until the case mouth splits. This can be after you're wearing off the nickel plating or until you can't even discern the case cannelure. Cost-wise, there is no way to shoot as much as you want without reloading. And then there is the bargain table at the LGS. Or Craigslist. Or even Armslist. Friends who don't reload. About 6 months ago, I acquired 31,000 primers for $250. A few years ago, I bought 500 count .357 bullets for $10 apiece at Riley's bargain table. You can buy brass and lead at your local scrapyard for only a little more than what they pay. Currently, my scrapyard is charging .71 cents a pound for lead and $1.70 a pound for cartridge brass. You can buy a complete, brand new reloading kit for under $200- Lee and around $300- RCBS or Lyman.
 
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