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The comprehensive, omnibus Mountain Bike Thread

Discussion in 'Off-Topic' started by carbuncle, Aug 16, 2014.

  1. TrackDayRdr

    TrackDayRdr NES Member

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    Best bet is to start from scratch. Release cable tension and set the small gear limit, set cable set big gear limit. Adjust B gap. Fine tune with barrel adjuster. Not sure how flipping the chip would change the rear mech but that might suggest your cable needs attention.
     
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  2. Viper22

    Viper22 NES Member

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    This is what I ended up doing after the first ride on my 29er. Watched a how-to on youtube and without much fuss had it shifting better than when I picked it up.
     
  3. mtnbiker26

    mtnbiker26 NES Member

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    This. Loosen the pinch bolt just enough to disconnect the cable, Don't let the plate rotate out of position, Turn all the barrel adjusters back in, Set the high limit (smallest cog) just a hair to the right of the small cog, Pull the slack out of the cable and fix it under the pinch bolt plate, Pay attention here..it needs to be on the correct side of the bolt or the actuation ratio will be incorrect, Use the barrel adjuster to progressively take out the slack until the chain climbs up the cassette and indexes properly on each gear, Too tight and it climbs great but won't come down, Set the low limit so you don't put the derailleur into the spokes, B-limit should only be tight enough to keep the upper jockey wheel from smacking the cassette, Too big a gap and the chain will be too laterally flexible for that upper jockey wheel to accurately "force" the chain around, Unless it's Sram Eagle, Then you need 15mm between the jockey wheel and 50T, Try watching the Park tool video on youtube.
     
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  4. bigblue

    bigblue

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    I have a Park stand, similar to the one above. idfk how you would do bike maintenance without a stand.

    Speaking of which, I probably need to adjust my rear mech and the front spokes.

    yeah, I wear gel bike shorts and they do help but damn if my bones don't hurt after a long ride.
     
  5. SpaceCritter

    SpaceCritter NES Member

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    Old-school involved a loop of rope hanging from the shop ceiling which you wrapped around the saddle.
     
  6. Supermoto

    Supermoto NES Member

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    I rode FATS (Forks Area Trail System) over by Augusta GA. It once had a IMBA Epic status and now is a bronze. Might be time to downgrade it again. The only interesting feature of this trail is that it caught on fire, but even the fire got bored and went home

    FATS.JPG
     
  7. Broccoli Iglesias

    Broccoli Iglesias NES Member

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    I need your opinions ...

    Background:

    I'm finally getting rid of my Scott Genius that I have had for so many years ...

    During that time (6/7 years or so) I didnt really look at other bikes and now I find the world has changed. 6 years ago, no one really differentiated between trail and enduro. Now I have trail, enduro and XC trail to choose from.

    I ride Bear Brook a lot and once in a while go to Kingdom Trails. Sometimes I will go to trails around MA, but not often.

    My riding is mostly:

    100 yards flat (roots and mud), 50 yards up, 30 down, 100 up, 100 down, flat, roots, rocks, more rocks, more roots, slight up hill .... I dont do big drops or bike parks.

    What I am looking for:

    I need something that can climb and go down hill, but not super fast rough downhill (I dont do full face helmets anymore). Think The bear trail in Bear Brook or some of the downhill parts of Kingdom Trails. You get the idea. I try to do those as fast as possible, but dont consider them technical expert DH trails.

    I must be the only person that loved the Scott Genius because of the suspension lock (I read too many hate articles, not sure why). I could lock it on the fly without even moving my arms. It was amazing for climbing and descending. But I find support for Scott bikes over here is lacking, so I'm looking at other brands.

    I need your help deciding amongst these bikes:

    Giant Trance 2
    Giant Trance Advanced Pro

    Specialized Epic Comp Evo
    Specialized Stump Jumper

    Santa Cruz 5010
    Santa Cruz Bronson

    Intense Sniper Trail
    . Not sure since not that many people own them.

    What are your thoughts?

    Other bike suggestions are welcome.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2019
  8. eboos

    eboos

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    Done!

    Club | NES on Strava
     
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  9. Supermoto

    Supermoto NES Member

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    I think something in the 120-140mm is a great travel for that kind of riding. I really like my Devinci Django with 130/120, haven't hit anything that requires more, including 6' drops to smooth transitions. But I prefer to feel more of the trail, then have the suspension smooth it out. Out of the ones you picked, I would go with the intense.

    I would also look at the Rocky Mountain Thunderbolt (27.5) or Instinct (29)
     
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  10. TrackDayRdr

    TrackDayRdr NES Member

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    I'm in although at the moment I'm the only one anywhere near my area.
     
  11. TrackDayRdr

    TrackDayRdr NES Member

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    I ride mostly MA rocky, rooty trails but my favorite riding is Bear Brook, No Conway and KT. I started off with a 27.5 Ibis Mojo HD3 160/150 then picked up a second bike: Intense Primer 29er that is 140/140. For local tech trail riding the Primer is my go-to and if I wanted a quiver bike that would be it, but...first world problems...I take the Mojo for KT, BB and anywhere the climbing is done primarily as a way to access the DH stuff. For me 27.5 wheels are for riding where I'm going to get the wheels off the ground (I'm not a jumper) or riding on banked turns and the 29er is for wheels-on-the-ground tech.
     
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  12. eboos

    eboos

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    You're not wicked far away. I do a lot of road near Harvard/Littleton. MRC team rides.
     
  13. Broccoli Iglesias

    Broccoli Iglesias NES Member

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    I will take a look at those. Thanks.
     
  14. mtnbiker26

    mtnbiker26 NES Member

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    You need to narrow it down a bit. That selection is really wide. An Epic is nothing like a Bronson. Be aware that a lot of the new longer travel bikes are 30 pounds. Just built an extra small 5010 for my boss. It's the GX version with the carbon Reserve wheels, it's $6k and it's 29.75 pounds with tubeless and all the reflectors/junk stripped off.

    Geometry has changed a ton too. "Capable" is the buzzword now so even XC race bikes like the Epic and Top Fuel have long wheelbases and 68* headtube angles so they've gotten more stable on the sketchy downhills. If you've been riding for a while, have good handling skills, and prefer something light and fast for XC then look at the shorter travel, lighter weight stuff. So many people are buying into the more is better hype and end up buying these DH sleds for XC and then discover that they're way "over-biked" for the terrain.

    A lot of people are trying to buy skills by getting a forgiving bike but most of these dudes can't actually ride the bike fast enough that it "wakes up" and works like it's supposed to. That Bronson feels great when going scary fast through the berms at Thunder Mountain but it feels heavy and dead at 8-9MPH on the usual local XC stuff.

    You didn't mention wheel size. That's pretty huge. Most folks know what wheel size they want and then shop bikes in that category.

    Suspension designs also have pretty different traits. Specialized FSR is progressive so you can run more or less pressure to tune it and stiffen or soften the ride depending on what you like. Say 20% sag if you prefer it firm and fast or 30% sag if you want more cush and negative travel. The VPP design on Santa Cruz is a regressive-progressive leverage ratio curve so you have to run enough preload (sag) to sit in the sweet spot or it just feels like crap.

    I saw you mentioned the 5010 and somebody else mentioned the Thunderbolt. They're pretty similar but the Rocky uses the Ride-9 system so you can tune it a bit more. Also check out the Trek Fuel EX (don't confuse it with the Top Fuel)

    Also, these days if you don't spend at least $5k, you're probably going to hate the bike. Prices have shot way up and the bikes have way more stuff on them so they're heavy AF. Big tires, big brakes, through-axles, dropper posts, wider bars, larger diameter fork legs have all added weight and even the $5k bikes often have lower-mid grade parts on them like Sram GX.
     
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  15. JRT

    JRT NES Member

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    Santa Cruz suck in NE, the bottom bracket is too low. It's a west coast bike. I have an Epic S-Works and I love it, fast and smooth. Giant makes a great bike but I don't have any experience.
     
  16. mtnbiker26

    mtnbiker26 NES Member

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    The guys at Santa Cruz build bikes for their terrain which is often fireroad climbs and singletrack back down. Not very technical terrain but you need to lift the front wheel a lot to launch off small drops so the stays are really short. I demoed a second gen 5010 and it was hard to keep the front planted on steep climbs. My butthole was way out on the saddle nose and the front wheel still wandered all over the place and would lift up even under moderate pedaling effort.
     
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  17. TrackDayRdr

    TrackDayRdr NES Member

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    None of you guys have ridden a Hightower??
     
  18. TrackDayRdr

    TrackDayRdr NES Member

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    Road?!?!? HA HA
     
  19. SpaceCritter

    SpaceCritter NES Member

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    My problem with road around here is we have not one, not two, but THREE 55+ communities. We've already had several "fatal medical incidents while driving" including a head-on with a school bus. And that's in addition to the general inattentiveness. This would be me:

    274.png
     
  20. TrackDayRdr

    TrackDayRdr NES Member

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    My problem with road around here is far too much volume on our roads, too many distracted drivers, too narrow roads and soft shoulders. Most of these same things have also kept me off my moto in the past few years. The road riding just sucks around here and that's the long and short of it. Upside is that I live within 15 minutes of some of the best singletrack in MA with at least 5 different areas to choose from.
     
  21. atmay

    atmay NES Member

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    I do almost entirely road riding. But, I don’t just hop on my bike at home and go for a spin. I drive to places where I know I can get some distance in without too much traffic.

    It’s terrible. I can either do 5-10 miles from home, or drive 15min+ to get any more distance in.
     
  22. Broccoli Iglesias

    Broccoli Iglesias NES Member

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    I just tested an Intense Primer 29. Awesome bike.
    Going to trial the Rocky Mountain Instinct.

    I think those are my two finalists.

    I was on the phone with intense, great customer service.

    Is anyone else at the JRA Demo event?
     
  23. Salyeica

    Salyeica NES Member

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    I have a Hightower LT that I bought late last year. Only have a couple days on it, but so far it’s been pretty stable for the riding I do (mostly Harold Parker) and is an efficient climber with that 12th gear.
     
  24. Broccoli Iglesias

    Broccoli Iglesias NES Member

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    Update ... the niner Jet 9 RDO also felt great. Instead of a large (as usual), I tried a medium. I'm in that spot where I can usually ride both. Medium felt great.
     
  25. TrackDayRdr

    TrackDayRdr NES Member

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    That's what I have. If you buy it, consider getting the shock link from the Recluse and upgrading to the 200 x 57 size shock (Fox DPX2 is awesome here!) for 140mm travel out back and a more trail focused rear suspension. I love my 140/140 Primer!!!
     
  26. Broccoli Iglesias

    Broccoli Iglesias NES Member

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    Interesting. I found the 130mm to be enough. But I will take a look at that.

    How did the extra 10mm affect climbing?

    I'm leaning heavily towards that bike. I will try to rent the Rocky Mountain Instinct next weekend and I will pull the triger on one of those two bikes.

    I didnt like the Rocky Mountain guys today. One of them kept pushing 150mm of travel to everyone. People would come in, say they are new and he would immediately say "150mm, I ride one on every terrain". Then a guy comes back with an Instinct BC edition and was talking how bad it climbs compared to the shorter travel bikes. Maybe RM is trying to dump their long travel bikes, I dont know, but that guy was annoying AF. He tried to get me to try the Instinct BC. I almost told him to f***off after telling him 3 times I didnt want that much travel. That's when I walked away and went to Niner.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2019
  27. TrackDayRdr

    TrackDayRdr NES Member

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    It's not how much travel you have, it's how you use it. The recluse link plus extra 10mm of travel improves the trail-ability of what is an excellent pedaling platform. It's hard to put a description to it - more plush...kinda, but not squishy at all. Moar gooder for the slow speed gnar I ride (HP, LDSF, BSF, RM, etc). If I was more XC focused the OEM link would be fine.

    Nothing worse than a pushy salesperson. I have an Ibis Mojo HD3 160F/150R. It's a lot of bike to carry around until you get to a fast and swoopy place like KT, Dorchester, etc. Around here 150 seems like a lot unless you're spending your time in big places like Lynn Woods, Vietnam, etc where you're getting the wheels off the ground or hitting big obstacles. IMO of course.
     
  28. SpaceCritter

    SpaceCritter NES Member

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    FWIW, this thing has 150mm:
    [​IMG]

    StinkyCatalog.jpg
     
  29. TrackDayRdr

    TrackDayRdr NES Member

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    Freeride bike. 150mm makes sense there. Aren't we talking about trail bikes?
     
  30. SpaceCritter

    SpaceCritter NES Member

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    Well, that's kinda my point.

    Lately my go-to has been:

    20190615_062051.jpg
    which has no squish at all save the big squishy tires.
     

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