The comprehensive, omnibus Mountain Bike Thread

Viper22

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Nice ride at Leadmine this evening - group ride with 6 riders. Bug spray was key. Super impressed so far with the Trance 29er. Changed out the factory grips for some ODI Rogues and now just need to change out the seat. Freaking thing is hard as a rock. During mile 6 is when it really starts to hurt.

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atmay

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Thoughts on seats? My stock Specialized is hard as a rock too.
Idk if it’s wildly different for mountain biking, but my road/gravel bike has a saddle on it that is essentially unpadded, and it’s perfectly comfortable. It’s more a matter of finding one that fits your ass/soft bits well than it is finding one that’s cushy.

(Again, maybe this doesn’t translate well to mtb, but it’s all I have to offer)
 

Supermoto

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Idk if it’s wildly different for mountain biking, but my road/gravel bike has a saddle on it that is essentially unpadded, and it’s perfectly comfortable. It’s more a matter of finding one that fits your ass/soft bits well than it is finding one that’s cushy.

(Again, maybe this doesn’t translate well to mtb, but it’s all I have to offer)
I find this to be true for Mtn biking too. Harder seats keep the pressure on your sits bones and off your junk. Getting a seat that fits you is important and it is something you should get measured for, they come in different widths.

I use this
Taint Misbehavin: The Selle Italia Max SLR Gel Flow Saddle Review -

I have a bunch of other saddles that I occasionally use and I can definitely feel the difference in comfort. Angle plays a big part too
 

new guy

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I was going to say, angle and distance (front to back alignment over the seatpost) both significantly impact comfort.
 

atmay

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I find this to be true for Mtn biking too. Harder seats keep the pressure on your sits bones and off your junk. Getting a seat that fits you is important and it is something you should get measured for, they come in different widths.

I use this
Taint Misbehavin: The Selle Italia Max SLR Gel Flow Saddle Review -

I have a bunch of other saddles that I occasionally use and I can definitely feel the difference in comfort. Angle plays a big part too
I was going to say, angle and distance (front to back alignment over the seatpost) both significantly impact comfort.
I use the PRO Stealth, which is a stubby time-trial saddle with a big ol’ gap down the middle. And I keep it on an ever-so-slight down angle.

@bigblue , when you ride, try and pay attention to where your saddle is uncomfortable. Make small adjustments to the position first, to see if that helps. If you run into a pain that can’t be adjusted away, try and figure out what about your saddle is causing it, and look for something that’s built differently.

This is how I ended up with the Stealth; my OE saddle wasn’t wide enough, was too long, had an upturned nose, and didn’t have a cut-out for the goods. The Stealth, although not nearly as cushy as the OE one seems, is wide (it comes in two widths, I got the wider), short, and flat, with a wide and deep center channel. I get a little tender after a long ride sometimes, but no literal pain like I used to get.
 

Viper22

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I have adjusted the factory Giant seat forward some, but still ride it fairly neutral. I usually start noticing pain around mile 6. By mile 8 my sit bones are killing.
 

Stryker

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I have a trek crossrip, which isn’t a dedicated cross bike, but it’s close.

I try and keep it off the super technical stuff, but I ride through the woods on 700x33C Clement MXPs. It’s a great way (IMO) to work on bike handling.

ETA: I weigh 230.
I love the autumn and hitting the unpaved roads and wider trails in southern NH on my cross - I definitely stay away from anything overly technical so I don't kill myself (or the bike)

Did replace the stem with the following - night and day on absorbing the vibration in the handlebars going down dirt at relatively higher speeds
ShockStop Suspension Stem

Did a kickstarter for their upcoming seatpost a little over a year ago and hoping they ship by this fall as would be interesting to give it a try
 

JRT

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Did they ship it 2-day? It's usually 2-3 weeks. FYI Specialized won't touch them once they get to be five years old. Risse and Traxxion will do it, though.
18 days to get my fork and shock back, you pretty much called it. They feel silky smooth though and possibly improved damping.
 

mtnbiker26

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I find this to be true for Mtn biking too. Harder seats keep the pressure on your sits bones and off your junk. Getting a seat that fits you is important and it is something you should get measured for, they come in different widths.

I use this
Taint Misbehavin: The Selle Italia Max SLR Gel Flow Saddle Review -

I have a bunch of other saddles that I occasionally use and I can definitely feel the difference in comfort. Angle plays a big part too

He's correct. I used to be a fitter in the early days. Now I'm a mechanic.

1) Saddle should be flat/level
2) A lot of modern saddles have minimal padding but a flexible chassis. You should be on your sit bones. If the saddle is too soft then your sit bones will sink in and then you end up on your taint. The flexible chassis is what provides the cush.
3) Nose and center of the saddle should be narrow and smooth (no seams in the saddle) so you don't chafe that upper-most part of your inner thigh.
4) Saddle should be wide enough to catch your sit bones and FLAT. Make sure your sit bones are perched on the flat part not hanging over the edge or on the rounded part.
5) Try going to a bigger Specialized shop with a good fitter and using the ass-o-meter to measure sit bone width. It's a piece of memory foam on a board that you sit on and make sit bone dents. Measure the spacing of the dents and use that info to select saddle width. Results can be surprising. I'm tiny and I need the Specialized 143mm. The 130mm jams straight into my taint.

Specialized and WTB are pretty popular. WTB Speed V is decent for $50
 
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My ass hurts after 8-10 miles; it is a Specialized that came with the bike. FWIW its my bones that hurt, saddle hasn't been adjusted much from factory so its neutral.
 

mtnbiker26

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My ass hurts after 8-10 miles; it is a Specialized that came with the bike. FWIW its my bones that hurt, saddle hasn't been adjusted much from factory so its neutral.
Your sit bones WILL hurt if you're not riding often. They have to toughen up just like everything else. I ride thousands of miles a year and if I take two weeks off the bike I'm a little uncomfortable on that first ride back. Just don't sit on your taint. Saddle shape is mostly responsible for the pressure you feel. Adjusting the saddle is more for inseam and femur length. Saddle should always be flat/level, saddle height is based on leg length and saddle fore/aft is based on femur length. There is ONE saddle position for your body and you're going to need a fitter to find it. Bike shorts help to reduce chafing and the chamois does help to reduce pressure. Higher-end shorts have more of a 3D chamois shape with thicker padding under your sit bones and thinner padding under your taint. Shorts won't solve pressure if the saddle is just wrong for you, though. I'd say comfort is 70% saddle shape and 30% shorts.
 

new guy

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I made the mistake of F'ing around adjusting my derailleur and now I'm having a hard time getting it lined back up. I need a proper repair stand.
 

Stryker

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Supermoto

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I made the mistake of F'ing around adjusting my derailleur and now I'm having a hard time getting it lined back up. I need a proper repair stand.
Did you adjust the barrel or hi-low stop screws, b-screw? If its the barrel, I just fine tune that while I am riding. You can do the hi/low/B with the bike upside down.

I use this for a bike stand. Works pretty good, especially if you have a dropper

Scorpion Bike Stand | Feedback Sports | Moto Style Bike Stand
 

new guy

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Did you adjust the barrel or hi-low stop screws, b-screw? If its the barrel, I just fine tune that while I am riding. You can do the hi/low/B with the bike upside down.

I use this for a bike stand. Works pretty good, especially if you have a dropper

Scorpion Bike Stand | Feedback Sports | Moto Style Bike Stand
I screwed around with all of them, unfortunately. I flipped the chip on the Django and after - though possibly unrelated - the shifter was misaligned by one gear, such that I wasn't reaching the big ring and it was dropping onto the axle past the small ring. Whether it's derailleurs or hi/low carb adjustments I can't seem to stay out of adjustment trouble. I think I need to pull the owners manual and try to start over.

That stand is wild. Does it actually allow you to turn the cranks without it tipping front to back too much? If yes I'm buying it.
 
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