I wanted to circle back to this. The lolly column is plum, the top of the footing is the same distance as the bottom of the footing. I think I can get it in there with a lot of patience.....
If not, I have another plan. Not as ideal though.
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The $399 "safe" thread
- Thread starter CoastieRon
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If not, I have another plan. Not as ideal though.
NHKevin
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MICHAEL GILLETTE
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How high would it need to be lifted if you were to add blocks? I feel like a challenge has been initiated!
13".How high would it need to be lifted if you were to add blocks? I feel like a challenge has been initiated!
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During my younger days, I might agree, but in my late twenties, as a deck ape, I wrenched my back seriously in a struggle between a client and a mean-ass bull shark in Missisippi Sound. Never been right again. I told Jill all safes on ground floor unless you want a ground-crawling salamander for a husband!
MICHAEL GILLETTE
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A ramp up to 13" high safe platform? Remove ramp after. What is the clearance above the safe if it was 13" off of the floor?
There's plenty of room above. I will need to take a couple of things off the wall, but nothing major. This is my second option.
MICHAEL GILLETTE
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If you're close to chelmsford, I'll be happy to volunteer if you need bodies.
It seems like everything I do I have to over analyze the everlovingshit out of it. This will probably go easier than I think it will.Anyone can work under ideal conditions.
or it'll be an absolute shitshow.....
NHKevin
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Hey.... I resemble that.
Asaltweapon
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Piece of cake.
I moved a Bridgeport milling machine around in my basement by myself. They only weigh 2000+ pounds.
I moved a wood boiler into my basement and raised it up onto cement blocks with a 1/4 steel baseplate by myself. I recall it coming in at around 1000 pounds.
Both had to go over a threshold.
Moved my Jotul fireplace insert into the house over a mahogany floor in the living room also by myself. Truck, porch, up a step into the entryway and then into the living room. I'll admit that one was tough but it's been in place for about 10 years now and there is zero damage to the floor. Had I damaged it I'd still be crying.
Roll safe around using 3 or 4 pieces of pipe into position. Get some blocking and working front and rear build up the height in steps. Slide in your blocks and reverse the order lowering safe onto the 13" blocks. A second person and a floor jack would be a lot faster.
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Better yet a third person so you can watch.
Like a glove.
Not as plum as I thought
Not as plum as I thought
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Beautiful, but you missed the chance to paint the column.
It's the BJs special Wasatch 24. I doubt it would ever hold that honestly. I do know I don't like the rifle stand offs.
I'd have probably taken the paint right off getting this pig in there.
As mentioned ^, Liberty Safe or Cabelas-branded Liberty Safe. Any safe purchase is Tax free in Mass. They will deliver to your curbside. In my case the driver and a friend help me roll up the pallet into the garage. I bought one with enough steel to weigh in at 1050 lbs. It's UL-listed as a residential storage container. It's strong. I was kvetching over, "oh, I want a UL-listed, TRTL-30X6, blah,blah, blah...". Don't need to go that extreme. Too expensive and too heavy.
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RSC is UL speak for tin can equivalent, and covers a very wide range from thin sheet metal you can buzz through like butter with a sawzall or carbide blade up to almost TL15. In other words, it is a pretty meaningless designation.
^OK, so what's the alternative , buy a used, beatup $4000+ bonafide TRTL-6X60 unfurnitured jeweler safe, weighing 2+ tons, and have delivered by skidder and crane? That's realistic? Nobody will buzz through it. I've been down this road.
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My point is that you need to look beyond RSC to see if you got junk or a pretty decent gun safe. I was not saying that RSC's are bad; only that the designation covers a VERY wide range of quality and, in and of itself, is not an indication that a gun safe is particularly secure. Get a 14ga or 12ga RSC and hope that the ne'er-do-wells don't have long prybars, tools or more than 10 minute in your house. Move up to 10ga, 7ga or .25" and they get progressively tougher to breech either by springing the door; cutting or cutting and peeling.
Note that youtube videos of manufacturers demo of how tough guns safes are never show targeted attacks with power tools opening the side door. It's always attempts to open the front door, or banging on it with sledgehammers - which are not the ways to pull a job if destructive entry is not contraindicated.
The fact that the online safe specs BJ's lists include everything except wall thickness is what one would call a clue.
It's all about 9's of protection. A thin wall safe may give you one 9 (.90 chance of stopping the theft); a high end gun safe might take it to two nines (.99) and a TL30 possibly 3 9's. Like high end guns and cars, you pay more and more for less and less benefit as you move up the food chain.
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Fair enough. The weight, in my mind, is the tell of quality. 1050 lbs for a non-jeweler-class, non-TRTL safe, for $1400 on sale is a pretty decent compromise, in my opinion. It means there is steel there. I have a Cabelas signature. I think it is 11 gauge. I was fixated like you on the possibility of (rather far-fetched) scenarios of undetected entry on other faces, but one's thinking goes right back to where you're talking. Technically, you're right. But it's a tradeoff. Who actually can afford and spend for a $10K + TRTL, jeweler-class gun safe plus the $1K+ to move it in with special equipment? You have to buy a safe sometime, when you need it.
Here's the thing. I know exactly what I bought, and have zero illusions of it's quality or lack there of. I already have a plate steel Hamilton 4 drawer with a sweet S&G lock on it that stores stuff.
The lock on this container is getting changed ASAP to the same style S&G I have on the Hamilton. The positioning of the container, as well as the location will hinder getting into it via pry bar, as well as make it pretty difficult to get at it with an angle grinder. That's why it had to fit where it went.
Also understand that I don't have a multi-tens of thousands of dollars into my collection. I do however have two loud dogs, cameras and alarms, as well as great insurance..
This is also temporary in the grand scheme of things.
The lock on this container is getting changed ASAP to the same style S&G I have on the Hamilton. The positioning of the container, as well as the location will hinder getting into it via pry bar, as well as make it pretty difficult to get at it with an angle grinder. That's why it had to fit where it went.
Also understand that I don't have a multi-tens of thousands of dollars into my collection. I do however have two loud dogs, cameras and alarms, as well as great insurance..
This is also temporary in the grand scheme of things.
You’re doing it right in my opinion. Between cameras, alarm, mean dog, insurance, and obscured views/access you’re making yourself a difficult target. Most theft is based on convenience and ease. If you’re actually being targeted by highly capable and trained thief’s then you’re in a completely different class.
How easy do you think it will be to change that lock? I’m not a fan of cheap electronic locks and would prefer manual.
How easy do you think it will be to change that lock? I’m not a fan of cheap electronic locks and would prefer manual.
Easy. Electronic locks are pretty easy, with ribbon wire going from the keypad to the actuator. I put the S&G 2007 on a safe made in the 80s and it took more time to get to the actuator location than the actual install.
S&G 2007 Titan
I'll have to take off the inner door, but that's not an issue for me. I have time.
I'm going to change some layout though. So inefficient
It does, 3 or 4 across the back
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