TC Impact (.50) Loads

HorizontalHunter

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Last year the hunting laws in Massachusetts changed so I decided that it was time to finally move up to an inline Muzzleloader so I ordered the TC Impact form Cabela's. Actually my wife bought it for me. [smile]

I will be running the open Williams Fire Sights for this season and I will see what happens. I have had the Williams sights before and they have worked well for me in the past. Maybe I will put a scope on it for next season; have to see how it performs.

I have hunted with sidelock percussion muzzleloaders for many years so I am not new to muzzleloaders but I am new to the inline muzzleloaders.

For those of you who have the Impact I would like to know what you are using for a load so I have a starting place to make a trip to the range. I also would appreciate any tips/tricks you have learned. No sense learning the hard way if I don't have to.[smile]

Thanks,

Bob
 
I started using Pyrodex and found it difficult to clean, not to mention it smells wicked. I have switched over to 777, so far so good. I go with (2) 50 grain equivelant pellets. I have an inline CVA wolf.
 
I just started with muzzleloader this year, and I bought an Impact as well. Currently I'm shooting a 250gr Barnes Spit-Fire TMZ over 100 grains of Blackhorn 209. I plan on getting a scope and doing some fine tuning to the loads for it in the off season (RI's season just ended Sunday), but it was giving me 3" groups at 50 yards with iron sights. It's not exactly bragworthy accuracy, but considering I went from never touching a muzzleloader in my life, to doing that in under 4 hours (by myself), I was happy with it. As soon as I went over 100grains they started opening up a lot. From 80-100 they started out ok and kept shrinking. I was doing 3 shot groups, and changing the load by 5 grains for each group. I started the day shooting some 240 grain TC bullets over pyrodex, but that was more to learn the basics of loading and shooting (because that other stuff was expensive!).
 
I just started with muzzleloader this year, and I bought an Impact as well. Currently I'm shooting a 250gr Barnes Spit-Fire TMZ over 100 grains of Blackhorn 209. I plan on getting a scope and doing some fine tuning to the loads for it in the off season (RI's season just ended Sunday), but it was giving me 3" groups at 50 yards with iron sights. It's not exactly bragworthy accuracy, but considering I went from never touching a muzzleloader in my life, to doing that in under 4 hours (by myself), I was happy with it. As soon as I went over 100grains they started opening up a lot. From 80-100 they started out ok and kept shrinking. I was doing 3 shot groups, and changing the load by 5 grains for each group. I started the day shooting some 240 grain TC bullets over pyrodex, but that was more to learn the basics of loading and shooting (because that other stuff was expensive!).

Thank you for the load info. It helps give me a place to start.

I am doing the same here. I will do a quick setup with the open sights for this season and during the summer I will pick up a scope and mount and put in the range time to see what it can really do. It is too freaking cold to spend hours at the range now.

Bob
 
I have an aluminum range rod but you can't beat that price. Anyone who shoots muzzleloaders should have a dedicated "T" handle range rod.

The only thing the ones under the barrel are good for is the occasional field load.

Bob

Yeah, I figured that out after half a day of using the field rod. I was so happy I bought the palm saver that I don't think I could put it into words.
 
For years, my exclusive choice for NE deer firearm was (and still is) T/C Triumph, which is similar to your muzzleloader. I get sub-MOA groups, and every time, but once, the deer would fall where they stood and would expire in fewer than 5 sec. The “runner” made 10 yards before he expired. Most of my muzzleloader kills are @ 140yd with few @ 60-70yd and one @ 163yd.

Powder: 77gr by weight of Blackhorn 209. I use digital scale and preload BH209 tubes. Note that some tubes might have static so be careful when you load to ensure you get all of your charge out of the tube. Here some basic starting load data http://www.blackhorn209.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/b209muzzleloaderdata.pdf

Bullet: 300gr Hornady FPB (http://www.hornady.com/store/50-Cal-300-gr-FPB/). I’ve also harvested game with 300gr Hornady SST. However, FPB is easier to load and a bit more consistent. Plus I do not have to play with sabot. Barnes make excellent product and would be my second choice. Oddly, my rifle hates T/C ammo.

Primer: CCI. Remington 209 STS also work, but CCI give slightly more consistent burn. I have not tried others so it’s possible there are better choices.

Scope: Nikon Omega BDC 250 3-9x40. However Nikon now only sells BDC 300. I would guess it’s equally good or even better than 250.

Mount: DNZ Game Reaper – Low

Each rifle is different, but I hope this will help you start.
 
For years, my exclusive choice for NE deer firearm was (and still is) T/C Triumph, which is similar to your muzzleloader. I get sub-MOA groups, and every time, but once, the deer would fall where they stood and would expire in fewer than 5 sec. The “runner” made 10 yards before he expired. Most of my muzzleloader kills are @ 140yd with few @ 60-70yd and one @ 163yd.

Powder: 77gr by weight of Blackhorn 209. I use digital scale and preload BH209 tubes. Note that some tubes might have static so be careful when you load to ensure you get all of your charge out of the tube. Here some basic starting load data http://www.blackhorn209.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/b209muzzleloaderdata.pdf

Bullet: 300gr Hornady FPB (http://www.hornady.com/store/50-Cal-300-gr-FPB/). I’ve also harvested game with 300gr Hornady SST. However, FPB is easier to load and a bit more consistent. Plus I do not have to play with sabot. Barnes make excellent product and would be my second choice. Oddly, my rifle hates T/C ammo.

Primer: CCI. Remington 209 STS also work, but CCI give slightly more consistent burn. I have not tried others so it’s possible there are better choices.

Scope: Nikon Omega BDC 250 3-9x40. However Nikon now only sells BDC 300. I would guess it’s equally good or even better than 250.

Mount: DNZ Game Reaper – Low

Each rifle is different, but I hope this will help you start.

Any reason for weighing the charge rather than going by volume? Is it just to get a finer adjustment?
 
Any reason for weighing the charge rather than going by volume? Is it just to get a finer adjustment?

Consistency. I am always +/- 0.01gr within my proven load. Do it by volume and your groups will open up. Not a big deal at 50yd, but is at 150+.

I forgot to mention, and it is critical, ALWAYS hunt dirty BH209. So clean your muzzleloader (use regular rifle cleaners and oil) and then fire 1 or even 2 shots prior to hunting. DO NOT clean after that shot. Not even a dry patch. For some reason clean BH209 produces a flyer on the first shot. You can shoot 15 dirty shots to sub-MOA, but clean it and first shot goes God knows where. I actually keep cheap junk ammo specifically for those first shots. Oh, and do not discharge that shot in the woods prior to legal hunting hours or you might get accused of poaching. I do it at the range few days or even a week prior to hunting.
 
For years, my exclusive choice for NE deer firearm was (and still is) T/C Triumph, which is similar to your muzzleloader. I get sub-MOA groups, and every time, but once, the deer would fall where they stood and would expire in fewer than 5 sec. The “runner” made 10 yards before he expired. Most of my muzzleloader kills are @ 140yd with few @ 60-70yd and one @ 163yd.

Powder: 77gr by weight of Blackhorn 209. I use digital scale and preload BH209 tubes. Note that some tubes might have static so be careful when you load to ensure you get all of your charge out of the tube. Here some basic starting load data http://www.blackhorn209.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/b209muzzleloaderdata.pdf

Bullet: 300gr Hornady FPB (http://www.hornady.com/store/50-Cal-300-gr-FPB/). I’ve also harvested game with 300gr Hornady SST. However, FPB is easier to load and a bit more consistent. Plus I do not have to play with sabot. Barnes make excellent product and would be my second choice. Oddly, my rifle hates T/C ammo.

Primer: CCI. Remington 209 STS also work, but CCI give slightly more consistent burn. I have not tried others so it’s possible there are better choices.

Scope: Nikon Omega BDC 250 3-9x40. However Nikon now only sells BDC 300. I would guess it’s equally good or even better than 250.

Mount: DNZ Game Reaper – Low

Each rifle is different, but I hope this will help you start.

Thank You. This is a helpful starting point.

According to what I have read the BDC 250/300 is set up for 150g of 777 and a 250g bullet. Does the BDC work with this load??

Did you have to get a different breech plug for the BH209?

Thanks,

Bob
 
Here's an Outdoor Life article which compares some rifles/loads:

http://www.outdoorlife.com/node/45640


I've only used the 777 pellets & 209 primers in my TC Omega. I load the rile with a TC Shock Wave saboted 250gr. bullet over two pellets, and use the iron sights. For a follow-up shot, I keep a TC speed loader handy, filled with a couple pellets and a PowerBelt bullet. I've found that the "crud ring" left from the first shot makes for a tough reload of a sabot if the bore isn't clean, but the PowerBelt can be seated w/o much effort.
 
According to what I have read the BDC 250/300 is set up for 150g of 777 and a 250g bullet. Does the BDC work with this load??

Did you have to get a different breech plug for the BH209?

1. Yes and No. The model number represents yard 250 or 300. However, that is just a marketing ploy and IMHO only relevant at the range where your targets are set at nice even distances 100yd, 150yd, 250yd, etc. If that is the case and you zero @ 100yd and use appropriate bullet and specified charge – allegedly your circles will match above mentioned distances. For the real world hunt conditions those distances seem to be of little value. Thus I use Nikon Spot-On software. My scope is zeroed @ 60rd and I have a chart for what the middle, top and bottom of each circle means for my bullet and charge at different magnifications. After I determine expected crossing path for the deer, I range the area and choose the most appropriate power setting – usually x5 or x6. When the deer moves across I know the range (or at least approximate range e.g. 120-130yd) and thus I know exactly what circle and which part of the circle I should use as my aiming point. Having said that I do not know if the only difference between 250 and 300 is the internal marking of circles. Nikon might have made some improvements. If not, it’s the same scope and 250 vs 300 is meaningless.

2. I use standard plug and primers. Some muzzleloader brands seem to need different plug and/or magnum primers, but it seems T/Cs are GTG as is. Do a search on Impact plug for BH209. If T/C does not make any it most likely means you do not need one. FYI, I’ve shot mine, both in training and hunts in rain, heat, freezing cold and snow – never ever had any issues with ignition. The only negative about BH209 is it hates clean bore. [grin]
 
Here's an Outdoor Life article which compares some rifles/loads:

http://www.outdoorlife.com/node/45640


I've only used the 777 pellets & 209 primers in my TC Omega. I load the rile with a TC Shock Wave saboted 250gr. bullet over two pellets, and use the iron sights. For a follow-up shot, I keep a TC speed loader handy, filled with a couple pellets and a PowerBelt bullet. I've found that the "crud ring" left from the first shot makes for a tough reload of a sabot if the bore isn't clean, but the PowerBelt can be seated w/o much effort.

Thank you for the article and load info. I have experienced the crud ring when I played around with loose 777 in my sidelock.

1. Yes and No. The model number represents yard 250 or 300. However, that is just a marketing ploy and IMHO only relevant at the range where your targets are set at nice even distances 100yd, 150yd, 250yd, etc. If that is the case and you zero @ 100yd and use appropriate bullet and specified charge – allegedly your circles will match above mentioned distances. For the real world hunt conditions those distances seem to be of little value. Thus I use Nikon Spot-On software. My scope is zeroed @ 60rd and I have a chart for what the middle, top and bottom of each circle means for my bullet and charge at different magnifications. After I determine expected crossing path for the deer, I range the area and choose the most appropriate power setting – usually x5 or x6. When the deer moves across I know the range (or at least approximate range e.g. 120-130yd) and thus I know exactly what circle and which part of the circle I should use as my aiming point. Having said that I do not know if the only difference between 250 and 300 is the internal marking of circles. Nikon might have made some improvements. If not, it’s the same scope and 250 vs 300 is meaningless. [grin]

I agree. Realistically in 30 odd years of hunting I have never shot a deer beyond 100 yards with any weapon. Never had the need for a set up to shoot beyond that. For me it would be more for fun at the range.

If you took the time to make that chart you sent quite a few rounds down range, did you try 777 loose or pellets?? Just curious. I know that loose is cheaper and more exacting when working up a load but I can see the advantage of using pellets in the field.


2. I use standard plug and primers. Some muzzleloader brands seem to need different plug and/or magnum primers, but it seems T/Cs are GTG as is. Do a search on Impact plug for BH209. If T/C does not make any it most likely means you do not need one. FYI, I’ve shot mine, both in training and hunts in rain, heat, freezing cold and snow – never ever had any issues with ignition. The only negative about BH209 is it hates clean bore. [grin]

Great to know. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me. I am anxiously awaiting "Big Brown"

Thanks,

Bob
 
I agree. Realistically in 30 odd years of hunting I have never shot a deer beyond 100 yards with any weapon. Never had the need for a set up to shoot beyond that. For me it would be more for fun at the range.

If you took the time to make that chart you sent quite a few rounds down range, did you try 777 loose or pellets?? Just curious. I know that loose is cheaper and more exacting when working up a load but I can see the advantage of using pellets in the field.

After you determine the bullet and charge preferred by your rifle you simply use Nikon’s ballistic calculator (www.nikonhunting.com/SpotOnRegistration/). If you own a chronograph and know velocity it will give you very accurate results. If not, you can use available presets and get very close (may be 0.5-2” off @ 150yds). Obviously you’ll want to confirm the data you get from the calculator by sending a few rounds downrange, but dozen or so will be more than enough. I enjoy shooting muzzleloader so I put few dozen rounds downrange prior to each hunt and many more throughout the year, but I do not do that to get the data. The calculator yields rather accurate data.

If I am using a firearm I actually prefer longer shots. Nearly every deer I took with a firearm were beyond 130yd. I love to see the deer relaxed and expire within seconds. So I move far enough to avoid alerting them to my presence and do my best to make my shots count. I have harvested deer @ 160+yd and in training have taken reasonably accurate shots out to 200yd. However, I have had an opportunity to take a shot @ 240+yd during a hunt and I decided not to do it. Although I am confident my choice of bullet and powder charge would be lethal at that range, and I knew where to hold my aim, and would likely be able to hit the animal in the vital zone – it was just too far for an ethical shot. I have not trained at those ranges and probability of wounding him or giving him slow painful death was too high. So I let him walk.



For a while I used Pyrodex pellets for both playing and hunting. Easy to load, but too much smoke, smell and cleaning. Accuracy was reasonably good. I am sure you could get the same accuracy out of loose 777 as you would from BH209.

Smell BH209 < 777; Smoke cloud BH209 < 777; Cleaning BH209 < 777; Accuracy BH209 = 777. 777 is a good product but I prefer BH209.
 
Well I've been thinking about using my muzzleloader for shotgun season (since it is my newest toy and all). Wasn't so sure, but I added a scope and changed my bullets to the 290 grain Barnes spit fires with the EZ load sabots. Took it out today to sight in and run it through it's paces, and now I'm getting 2" groups at 100 yards. I just need to figure out where all the deer I was seeing from my stands during archery season that were out of bow range went.
 
Well I've been thinking about using my muzzleloader for shotgun season (since it is my newest toy and all). Wasn't so sure, but I added a scope and changed my bullets to the 290 grain Barnes spit fires with the EZ load sabots. Took it out today to sight in and run it through it's paces, and now I'm getting 2" groups at 100 yards. I just need to figure out where all the deer I was seeing from my stands during archery season that were out of bow range went.

Excellent. Good luck tomorrow with it.

Big Brown delivered my new toy today. Just in time for a few nice nice range days. Open sights for me this year and next summer I will put a nice scope on it and really put in some range time to see what it can do.

I am hunting with the xbow tomorrow so my shotgun may not leave the safe this year.

Bob
 
Excellent. Good luck tomorrow with it.

Thanks, but I'm stuck at work today (the joys of the holiday season and having a job in retail). It's ok though. I hunt state land, so I'm better off not hunting the weekends during shotgun season in RI anyway. I'll be hitting it hard every midweek morning for the next 2 weeks though.
 
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