Stripped muzzle brake

Stevireno

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Hi guys, I was removing my front sight and went to remove the muzzle brake, it took a lot of muscle to get it to budge, now it looks like the threads are stripped and the brake is just hanging there.

If I yank it off, can I have a new one welded and pinned even though the threads are stripped?uploadfromtaptalk1429364475616.jpg
 
Those threads are ****ed. Best option is to get the barrel cut and threaded, I know 1776 Gunsmithing in Walpole will do it. Just out of curiosity, was that pinned and welded before you tried taking off the brake?

Cut down the barrel to 14.5 and throw a Lantac Dragon Brake on it!
 
Silver soldered? Needed torch to melt solder first if it was.
Clean off solder, re-tap threads, check engagement with new device, pin and weld.
 
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Silver soldered? Needed torch to melt solder fires if it was.
Clean off solder, re-tap threads, check engagement with new device, pin and weld.

Now looking after magnifying the image it looks like that is what it is.
 
It looks like it had been pinned and welded due to the discoloration on the shoulder of the brake and the tearing out of the barrel threads. Confirm this then drill out the pin. You might be able to save the brake.

The barrel will need to be cut and threaded OR, rebuilt with weld, turned and threaded. Pullman arms has a photo on their sight of just such a weld job.

If the barrel is chrome lined the best bet is to have it welded. Cutting will promote chipping/flaking of the chrome at the cut.
 
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Now I can't get get break off, it's just spinning at the end of the barrel.

A bunch of the silver and the threads have been pushed toward the end of the barrel and mashed together. Now the brake is sitting in a valley with the barrel on one side and a ridge of metal on the other.

What does it look like if you look in the brake? If you can see the ridge of metal you may be able to use a dremel to cut it down enough to slip the brake off. If not then it has to be cut in the valley, behind the break, and hopefully pushed out through the break. Then, as the others have said, the barrel will need to be cut and re-threaded. Or have a target crown cut, if you don't care about having a MD.
 
depending on how bad you want to keep the brake you may end up at a smith. heat it with a torch first. at minimum your gonna need to rethread the barrel if your intent is such
 
Are you sure you were turning it the proper direction, some brakes have a left hand thread, means you need to
turn it clockwise to remove it. Just a thought!

.......................... Jack
 
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Once it budged free, I tried both directions and righty tighty was much herder to turn than lefty loosey.
 
I'm going to secure the brake and cut it off, I'll bring it back to the shop that I bought it from and ask why it didn't display that the brake was welded
 
Maybe the seller was just being overly cautious by massifying the barrel.

But to be perfectly honest, you should have known something was up long before you got to where you did. If you had stopped and figured out why the MD was not loosening after the first turn or so, you could have saved the threads. Sometimes just muscling something is not the answer.
 
Silver solder is legal if meltpoint is above 1100 degrees F.

https://www.atf.gov/files/publications/download/p/atf-p-5320-8/atf-p-5320-8-chapter-2.pdf

The ATF procedure for measuring barrel length is to measure from the closed bolt (or breech-face) to
the furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device. Permanent methods of
attachment include full-fusion gas or electric steel-seam welding, high-temperature (1100°F) silver
soldering, or blind pinning with the pin head welded over.
Barrels are measured by inserting a dowel rod
into the barrel until the rod stops against the bolt or breech-face. The rod is then marked at the
furthermost end of the barrel or permanently attached muzzle device, withdrawn from the barrel, and
measured.
 
Maybe the seller was just being overly cautious by massifying the barrel.

But to be perfectly honest, you should have known something was up long before you got to where you did. If you had stopped and figured out why the MD was not loosening after the first turn or so, you could have saved the threads. Sometimes just muscling something is not the answer.

The irony being, the propane torch in the background of the pic.
 
Maybe the seller was just being overly cautious by massifying the barrel.

But to be perfectly honest, you should have known something was up long before you got to where you did. If you had stopped and figured out why the MD was not loosening after the first turn or so, you could have saved the threads. Sometimes just muscling something is not the answer.

Yes, True... I kept cranking that MD knowing that something was wrong. Looking back, I would have simply brought it to a pro and asked them how to remove it, since I couldn't get it off easily. It doesn't appear to be a total loss, if I can get the tip re-threaded.
 
Well, I got the brake off, but cut into the barrel a bit, it likely won't matter now, as the threads are ruined. Anyone know what my options are?uploadfromtaptalk1429479286907.jpguploadfromtaptalk1429479326558.jpg
 
Well, I got the brake off, but cut into the barrel a bit, it likely won't matter now, as the threads are ruined. Anyone know what my options are?View attachment 134959View attachment 134961

Cut off single point thread recrown, pin extended muzzle device .
Or have it turned , recrowned and have a press on muzzle device made.
Or have a threaded sleeve installed .
 
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