Strange G23 FTE issue

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I was shooting my G23 today and I had some extraction issues. I bought the 2nd gen used and have put atlas 500 rounds through it before this with no issues. Today in 50 rounds I had 5 FTE's. It seemed like it started when I didn't put a mag in all the way and it half fell out when the slide racked. It was one of those police style mags that don't drop out when they are loaded, if that matter. After that there was at least one FTE per magazine. All of the brass that I found afterwards (regardless of FTE or not) was misshaped (see Pic). I brought it by a local gunshot but the smith was not in, they took a look at it and they suggested that it was too oily. I agree that I over oiled it, but, with what everyone says about glocks, how they can fire when full of mud and water, I find it strange that too much oil would cause such a situation. Cycling the rounds manually ejects them with no perceived issues. I googled this but didn't find much. Any help is appreciated.


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Most likely because it's a .40.

on a more serious note, what brand ammo were you using? Also how clean is the chamber/extractor?
 
If you're using to much oil, could the oil be burning so hot that it increases the pressure on the chamber causing the FTEs? Or maybe the oil is "gumming up" causing the FTEs?

Just throwing a guess in the ring, here.
 
It was a little wet, but, when it comes to glock reliability it's hard for me to imagine that holding the gun back. It is no different than I normally run it. 4-5 drops on the gun instead of 1-2. It could be the issue, but it would really upset me that the gun malfunctioned because of that.
 
Just going out on a limb but maybe the recoil spring is weak and with those full power Lawman bullets it was not controlling the slide movement. I doubt you over oiled it. I oil most my guns pretty good and never experience any issues what so ever.
 
The recoil spring and the extractor come to mind. I'm new to pistols and this is my first and only glock. But, the shop that checked it out suggested that the spring may be out of a 22 and too stiff. They checked them side by side and it was a correct 23 spring. They thought it seemed stiff anyway. As far as I know it's stock, and it feels normal to me.
 
the shop that checked it out suggested that the spring may be out of a 22 and too stiff.

If that shop believes that a G22 recoil assembly fits a G23 then I wouldn't believe anything they say. The G22 guide rod is about 1/2 inch longer than the G23's.

No way it would fit.

I would guess the ejector is broken or bent.

Ejector 1.jpg
 
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ejector tension is provided by the extractor depressor plunger assembly. (EDPA) google it.

If the spring is worn I'd replace it. I'd also replace the spring loaded bearing on the end of the extractor depressor assembly. Sometimes people put the assembly in bckwards. When that happens, the plastic spring loaded bearing pushes on the extractor rather than the slide end plate. The plastic can't take the movement and wears. This reduces the stack height of the EDPA which reduces the preload on the EDP spring. Which reduces the tension on the extractor.

You could also replace the extractor.

Or you could simply call Glock. they will ship the gun both ways and fix it for free

Don
 
Thank you for all the help. I didn't realize I could call glock and send it to them. If the issue persists I'll go that option next. Anyway I have an update. I brought it back to the shop and the armorer was there. He took it apart and the slide and that spring with the plastic bearing fired out and we lost it. The armorer said that wasn't at all normal. I think that's the spring and bearing that you're referring to. He replaced that with new and resembled it all. The recoil spring was also noisy, so he put a new one in because it was cheep. He said that there was nothing he could see wrong with it, but it was making a creaky door noise and it's cheap enough to replace.

I have yet to shoot the pistol after that, hopefully next week.
 
Excellent.

If the spring went shooting across the room, that means it was installed backwards. The spring should be at the end against the plate. If it expands quickly nothing happens.

If it is installed backwards, the spring fires the extractor depressor rod out first and the whole thing launches.

Look at the pic. Imagine with the slide down muzzle first if you removed the plate and the spring was on the top. Nothiing would happen. If it was on the bottom, it would fire the whole thing out of the gun.

If it is in backwards, spring at the bottom, the plastic nubbins (extractor depressor bearing) bears on the extractor and wears. The metal end on the left is what is supposed to be up against the extractor.

It sounds like all that can be done, has been done other than change the extractor. Which if there was a problem with it, you should be able to see. Let us know how it works out.

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I have never seen shells that misshaped. What did the gunsmith say would cause the shells to get so out of shape? They are all almost identically distorted. Is it bulge from the unsupported chamber?

Show a pic of the bottom of the shells. If the bottom of the case is misshaped the extractor probably isn't able to grab it properly throughout the cycle.
 
Ya, no way this is as simple as something installed backwards. That would totally explain FTEs but does not explain all your brass being warped. The fact that the brass is warped (not just dinged) would suggest something more significant. I can't begin to imagine what would do that with any consistency. Calling Glock is the right move.
 
I am not experienced in what .40 cases normally look like after ejection from a Glock. But if you say that is abnormal, then my though would be that the slide is moving too fast or too soon.

I'd immediately swap the recoil spring assembly, which is what your guy did. With it swapped and that problem continuing, I'd confirm the correct number is printed on the assembly. (He might have given you a 9mm assembly. )

Are the case bottom's bulged, or is the mouth just all beat up. Bulging would indicate premature extraction.

Don

p.s. This is all just for fun. To solve the problem, I agree, send it back to Glock. Please be sure to keep us up to date on the resolution. Several people on this thread are glock armorers and would like to find out the ultimate resolution. The more data points the better.

The thing that sucks is that for all of Glock's excellent service, their descriptions of what they did to fix the gun are usually pretty cryptic.

Don
 
I wonder if someone put in an extractor made for newer Glocks than yours, or the wrong bearing. (The gen 2s (and I think some early gen 3s) that came with non-LCI (loaded chamber indicator) extractors and a 90-degree face shouldn't use the newer extractors made for 15-degree cut faces); those consistent dents make me think it's something like that, though I've never seen that. I guess I could set one up like that and see what happens (NO, I'm not gonna do that! [smile]).

Compare:

http://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...-no-lci-older-slide-w-90o-port-prod69794.aspx

http://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...tor-w-loaded-chamber-new-style-prod22972.aspx

Does your extractor have the little "loaded chamber indicator" bump or is it smooth on the slide side?

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2u46nhx.jpg
 
I had this similar issue with a glock gen 4 that did brass to the face.. the brass would fly in all directions, and held poorly in place by the claw, the cases actually get flung during high speed into the side of the gun's slide, impact and dent the case , then bounce around and some get squeezed between the face of the slide and the barrel hood and get more marks as its closing , then dribble out .

Look up vwurpen blog on gen 3 vs gen 4 ejection
 
I had this similar issue with a glock gen 4 that did brass to the face.. the brass would fly in all directions, and held poorly in place by the claw, the cases actually get flung during high speed into the side of the gun's slide, impact and dent the case , then bounce around and some get squeezed between the face of the slide and the barrel hood and get more marks as its closing , then dribble out .

Look up vwurpen blog on gen 3 vs gen 4 ejection

Thanks for the reference Queen Bee. Here is direct link to the article http://www.vuurwapenblog.com/uncategorized/glock-ejection-issues-fixes/

So how does one go about "tweaking the ejector about 1mm towards the center axis of the bore"?
 
Update: I have been ignoring the gun as I build up a collection of more pistols. The other day I took it out to shoot after the armourer gave me the OK. Now the pistol only functions with square notch mags. With any of the u notches i have (I bought a bunch of prebans) it extracted but but would fail to feed and the runs would catch half loaded on ever third or fourth shot. The brass is still dented even with the mags that worked. I'll send it to glock when I get a chance.

Excuse my ignorance, but to my understanding I have to go to an FFL to ship it. Is that true, or just for buying a new firearm and getting it shipped?
 
If your gun is a Gen 3 or Gen 4 , this is a common problem with later model 9mm glocks when using U notch mags.

WHAT GEN IS YOUR 23?

Obviously Glock doesn't recommend this, but replacing the follower with a follower from a new Gen 4 mag solves this problem in 9mm. I don't really know if .40s follow the same pattern. But for the cost of a follower ($3) its worth a shot.

Also take the time to replace the magazine spring, since every U Notch magazine spring I've ever seen is compressed beyond acceptable limits.

Don
(Glock Advanced Armorer)

Follower

http://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=glock+magazine+follower&ksubmit=y

Spring

https://www.gunsprings.com/GLOCK ®/cID1/mID5/dID116#148

p.s. If your problem is that your late model Glock won't run with 25 year old U notch mags, don't bother sending it back to glock. They will test it with the appropriate vintage mag for the age of the gun and most likely send it back to you unaltered.
 
If your gun is a Gen 3 or Gen 4 , this is a common problem with later model 9mm glocks when using U notch mags.

WHAT GEN IS YOUR 23?

Obviously Glock doesn't recommend this, but replacing the follower with a follower from a new Gen 4 mag solves this problem in 9mm. I don't really know if .40s follow the same pattern. But for the cost of a follower ($3) its worth a shot.

Also take the time to replace the magazine spring, since every U Notch magazine spring I've ever seen is compressed beyond acceptable limits.

Don
(Glock Advanced Armorer)

Follower

http://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=glock+magazine+follower&ksubmit=y

Spring

https://www.gunsprings.com/GLOCK ®/cID1/mID5/dID116#148

p.s. If your problem is that your late model Glock won't run with 25 year old U notch mags, don't bother sending it back to glock. They will test it with the appropriate vintage mag for the age of the gun and most likely send it back to you unaltered.

Don, the OP did say in his first post 10 months ago that it is a Gen2 G23, so u-notch mags should work assuming that the mag springs are okay.
 
Glockster, oops. I looked and must have missed that.

Maxim - It's never been adjudicated. But its pretty safe to say that if you have the original tube and base plate, you are good.

If your gun's a gen 2, I wouldn't necessaryly replace the follower.

I would do two things.

1) Confirm that the mag is a .40 cal mag and not a 9mm mag. They are the same except for the follower.
2) Replace the mag springs
3) Replace the recoil spring assembly

If you buy these all from wolff springs, gunsprings.com, it shouldn't cost you more than $25.

Don
 
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