Steyr M9-A1 trigger job

[milktree]

OK, now what?



A bit of a joke...

The trigger has a bunch of creep and isn't as smooth as I'd like.

I've looked on teh Interwebs for info on what to polish, but have come up short.

Any ideas?

 

[92G]

the trigger on my steyr M9 is crisp and light. i would not go removing the finish from those parts. consider re-assembling the gun and dry firing it to your desired smoothness

 

[usp45ct]

Yeah, I agree. I would run my finger over it looking for burrs. If I saw none I would probably grease it and put it back together

 

[m_n_x]

There's your problem, you had a key and an allen wrench in there. Seriously, I agree with the above - break it in. I had one and thought the trigger was terrific out of the box.

 

[milktree]

Yeah, I agree. I would run my finger over it looking for burrs. If I saw none I would probably grease it and put it back together

Right. "run my finger over it"... but which parts of it? There's a lot of surfaces there.

Nothing is obviously rough.

 

[92G]

on a striker gun, rough take-up is often at the point of trigger-bar/firing-pin-safety engagement surface. rough break usually at striker/sear engagement. however i'm not familiar with the steyr firing mechanism so wouldn't be able to point you in a direction to "improve" it. i'm guessing these parts are all MIM'ed and surface hardened. when ones goes polishing the internals the question becomes how the parts will hold off over longer round counts. whatever testing data Steyr collected on the pistol is now sort of out-the-window. it also becomes questionable to eventually sell a pistol that has been modified in such manner, so if the seller is honest the pistol takes a major value drop.

the steyr M9 has an excellent trigger. the reset has always been a little weak but whatever. if someone needs a glass trigger break then a striker gun is going to suck compared to a 1911.

 

[usp45ct]

Right. "run my finger over it"... but which parts of it? There's a lot of surfaces there.

Nothing is obviously rough.

Yeah, you are probably better off just putting it back together with plenty of grease and just leaving it be.

 

[TechWare]

Just saw a post last night that stated unequivocally that unless you have a Steyr Armorer's Course Manual (Meaning you took the course) you shouldn't be disassembling any trigger group components beyond just removing the entire trigger group from the weapon for standard maintenance/cleaning. Beyond that, you might be setting yourself up for some unnecessary heartache. Just saying.

 

[MAJoe]

Just saw a post last night that stated unequivocally that unless you have a Steyr Armorer's Course Manual (Meaning you took the course) you shouldn't be disassembling any trigger group components beyond just removing the entire trigger group from the weapon for standard maintenance/cleaning. Beyond that, you might be setting yourself up for some unnecessary heartache. Just saying.

Don’t most manufacturers say this as a liability cover? If they don’t, and some idiot ruins a critical safety function and has an incident, then I could see a defense of “they didn’t say I shouldn’t! They weren’t clear on the danger!”

 

[milktree]

Well... I got it back together reasonably easily and it still works fine...

 

[Mark from MA]

Just saw a post last night that stated unequivocally that unless you have a Steyr Armorer's Course Manual (Meaning you took the course) you shouldn't be disassembling any trigger group components beyond just removing the entire trigger group from the weapon for standard maintenance/cleaning. Beyond that, you might be setting yourself up for some unnecessary heartache. Just saying.

All manuals usually say that. In some cases like semi auto and pump rifles like a Remington 742, or Ruger 44 mag semi auto.... and other trigger groups like that, semi auto shotguns, etc........yeah...you need to be careful and not mess with them, and are best douched with solvent and blown out with air.

Most Striker fired pistols though, aren't exactly rocket science. Glock, Canik, Ruger, Etc.....very similar in most cases. Ive had them all apart, and its relatively easy and similar.

OP if you want a good striker fired pistol trigger, one of the best is a Canik tp9 or tp9sfx with the flat faced forward trigger made by Freedomsmith. It removes 90% of the travel and is just frickin sweet.

 

[milktree]

All manuals usually say that. In some cases like semi auto and pump rifles like a Remington 742, or Ruger 44 mag semi auto.... and other trigger groups like that, semi auto shotguns, etc........yeah...you need to be careful and not mess with them, and are best douched with solvent and blown out with air.

Most Striker fired pistols though, aren't exactly rocket science. Glock, Canik, Ruger, Etc.....very similar in most cases. Ive had them all apart, and its relatively easy and similar.

OP if you want a good striker fired pistol trigger, one of the best is a Canik tp9 or tp9sfx with the flat faced forward trigger made by Freedomsmith. It removes 90% of the travel and is just frickin sweet.

I have a Canik, it’s very nice.

But that’s not the point here. I want to make this one better. (For science!)