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Yeah, I agree. I would run my finger over it looking for burrs. If I saw none I would probably grease it and put it back together
Right. "run my finger over it"... but which parts of it? There's a lot of surfaces there.
Nothing is obviously rough.
Don’t most manufacturers say this as a liability cover? If they don’t, and some idiot ruins a critical safety function and has an incident, then I could see a defense of “they didn’t say I shouldn’t! They weren’t clear on the danger!”Just saw a post last night that stated unequivocally that unless you have a Steyr Armorer's Course Manual (Meaning you took the course) you shouldn't be disassembling any trigger group components beyond just removing the entire trigger group from the weapon for standard maintenance/cleaning. Beyond that, you might be setting yourself up for some unnecessary heartache. Just saying.
Just saw a post last night that stated unequivocally that unless you have a Steyr Armorer's Course Manual (Meaning you took the course) you shouldn't be disassembling any trigger group components beyond just removing the entire trigger group from the weapon for standard maintenance/cleaning. Beyond that, you might be setting yourself up for some unnecessary heartache. Just saying.
All manuals usually say that. In some cases like semi auto and pump rifles like a Remington 742, or Ruger 44 mag semi auto.... and other trigger groups like that, semi auto shotguns, etc........yeah...you need to be careful and not mess with them, and are best douched with solvent and blown out with air.
Most Striker fired pistols though, aren't exactly rocket science. Glock, Canik, Ruger, Etc.....very similar in most cases. Ive had them all apart, and its relatively easy and similar.
OP if you want a good striker fired pistol trigger, one of the best is a Canik tp9 or tp9sfx with the flat faced forward trigger made by Freedomsmith. It removes 90% of the travel and is just frickin sweet.