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Springs coming - Any lawn care questions?

Discussion in 'Off-Topic' started by chindogg, Mar 26, 2013.

  1. Dewmyster

    Dewmyster NES Member

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    Ok, my lawn looks like it snowed, wild violets and nothing I have tried knocked them out. What next?
     

  2. Pilgrims Pride

    Pilgrims Pride

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    That trimec 992 that I mentioned has 2-4d and dicamba, that will knock it out.
    May need 2 sprays. Use a spreader sticker.
     
  3. Pilgrims Pride

    Pilgrims Pride

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    WEEKLY TURF UPDATE

    Here is the latest update from UMASS.

    Get your irrigation going if you havent already!
    Get your crabgrass pre=emergent out now. Use Dimension. Its the only one that will still work.
    MOW TALL!

    Current Management Notes
    Date:
    May 3, 2013
    Subject:
    Current Management Notes

    The mowing season has started for a rapidly growing number of managed sites. Some purposely allow the turf get shaggy prior to the first mowing, believing that fill-in will somehow be encouraged. The result instead is increased shock to the plants due to the larger amount of leaf tissue eventually removed and a delay of the important benefits of mowing. Mowing should begin as soon as turf height reaches the threshold for the “1/3 rule”, based on a reasonable mowing height for the site and turf use. As a reminder, the 1/3 Rule states that no more than 1/3 of the vertical height of the turfgrass plants should be removed in a single mowing event. For example, if the desired height of cut is 2 inches, then it is time to mow when the turf grows to 3 inches in height. Mowing stimulates tillering and in turn promotes a denser and more uniform turf. Mowing is also beneficial from a weed management standpoint, as regular mowing serves to suppress a large number of weed species.

    Dry conditions have persisted throughout the region. Although the Cape and Southeastern Massachusetts have fared somewhat better based on totals for the year, little measurable precipitation has fallen on a sizeable portion of the Bay State in over a week. First-hand observation and second-hand reports have revealed dry spots and mild drought stress in turf, especially in sunnier areas or on coarse textured-soils. At this time it is prudent to keep an extra close eye on high value turf and any immature stands that were established last fall. It is also important to remember that many fertilizers and pest control products applied at this time of year perform best when ‘watered-in’ shortly after application.

    Forsythia are now past full bloom in most areas of the state, and the average soil temperature for our monitoring sites is currently 57º F. This means that we are quickly nearing the end of the effective window for preemergence annual grass control. Since many preemergence herbicides require adequate follow-up watering for maximum effectiveness, supplemental irrigation may be required to complete the job if rain is not in the forecast.
     
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  4. warpig

    warpig

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    I can't agree more with the "mow high" advice. I have been doing it for years since reading Lawn Care for the Cheap and Lazy
    Organic Lawn Care For the Cheap and Lazy
    Every year my next door neighbor cuts his grass low, while my mower stays at the highest setting. His lawn looks great in May. But his goes dormant in the first June heat wave and turns brown ( except for crabgrass and dandelions), while mine is green and healthy through the summer. I hardly water, but the grass likes being long so much, it doesn't need as much water!
     
  5. Pilgrims Pride

    Pilgrims Pride

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    Pop quiz,
    What does a "droughty" lawn look like?
    Some early signs?
     
  6. dhuze

    dhuze NES Member

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    SOB! I found a dandelion at the edge of my lawn. I dug it out and saved the day. That's the second one in two years. I'm getting real sick of it.
     
  7. PaulR

    PaulR NES Member

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    I'll be applying milorganite, epsom salts, calcitic lime ahead of the oncoming rain. Probably won't get to the other micronutrients. I'm a HUGE fan of fall fertilizing and nothing in the early spring. It has worked well. Next week maybe I'll spread some composted manure. :lawngeek:
     
  8. Buggin

    Buggin Dealer NES Member

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    Do all these chemicals have an effect on well water?
     
  9. Pilgrims Pride

    Pilgrims Pride

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    Good plan sir.
    Actually I follow a similar program.
    Higher N in fall, less in spring.
    except for new accounts that have to be green like the one next door!
     
  10. Pilgrims Pride

    Pilgrims Pride

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    There have been MANY STUDIES done on this.
    There are some materials that have been found to reach water tables.
    In Mass this is closely regulated.
    Guide to Groundwater Protection Regulations

    For the most part there are many other products that are better choices.
    Some may not work as quickly, but they are still better choices.

    A big concern is fertilizer run off.
    But PROPERLY APPLIED applications of suitable fertilizers should not be a real concern.

    I realize these answers may be a bit vague.
    I could type volumes on the subject.
    Hope that helps.
     
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  11. garandman

    garandman Instructor NES Member

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    We rented a house a few summers on a bay in the northern part of Lake Champlain. Fertilizer runoff has a serious impact on the water there. We won't go there anymore in August, and Lake Champlain in 100+ miles long.
     
  12. Pilgrims Pride

    Pilgrims Pride

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    TIME TO SPRAY THOSE NASTY CATERPILLARS I'VE BEEN TALKING ABOU

    TIME TO SPRAY TREES FOR CATERPILLARS!

    Good morning everyone,

    One of the wonderful things about working outside is that I get to enjoy all of nature’s wonders as they unfold every year. From those first crocuses with their promise of spring, to the splendor of the fall foliage, I get to savor it all.

    Of course, I notice some of nature’s nasty little pests along the way.
    Over the past days I have seen the webs and felt that little tickle of some early gypsy moth caterpillars.
    I am seeing some tent caterpillar nests too.

    Right now is the time to stop them.
    Just one well applied application will protect your trees and ornamentals from these leaf eating, plant ruining pests! It will stop them from pooping all over your cars, decks and your house too!
    Remember what a mess they make? What a bother it is to clean up after them?

    My average price to spray your entire property is between $125.00 and $150.00.
    Call me now at 508-245-1777 or e –mail me at [email protected] and I’ll be happy to put you on my list. My pricing is very reasonable and I guarantee results!
    Be sure to leave your name, property address, and best contact numbers to use.
    I’ll do the rest!

    Get a few neighbors together and I’ll gladly offer a “neighborhood discount”!

    BTW, many of my customers take advantage of this treatment and then continue on with my tick & mosquito program. It is a great way to protect your kids, pets and family and make your property insect free and more enjoyable all summer long!
    Click here for more information Pest Control » |

    Enjoy the day!

    Bob Brown
     
  13. dhuze

    dhuze NES Member

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    Why can't I mow a wet lawn? I've always been told you can't, but I don't believe it.
     
  14. ront02769

    ront02769 NES Member

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    Perhaps the wrong place (sorry) but need a new lawnmower to replace Ingersol 4016 w/48" deck which mows the lawn in about 2 1/2 hours. Looking at the new kubota residential zero turn model, Kommander ZG123, and am wondering a if there are any out there with some experience with same. Positives, negatives, dealer issues? Thanks. Ron
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2013
  15. Pilgrims Pride

    Pilgrims Pride

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    Sorry friend.
    I keep away from mowing and the rest.
    Those youngsters wanna set the world on fire cuttin grass, more power to them!
    Mods, I dont know if this will fly, if not just delete the post
    Ront, try over here for mower info
    http://www.lawnsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=285
     
  16. ront02769

    ront02769 NES Member

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    Thanks for the reference. Thing is that when you guys get done making the lawan thick, lush, green and growing like crazy, SOMEONE has to cut it. I cut Monday afternoon and by yesterday afternoon I was cutting 3" off of it in many places!! Ron
     
  17. dhuze

    dhuze NES Member

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    It happens. I mowed mine Friday and I'm going to have to mow it again. Fertilizer, rain and sun has that affect.
     
  18. Coyote33

    Coyote33

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    Well, if your mower doesn't clog up, go for it. That is usually the reason why not.


    OK, question time:
    I've already done my milky spore treatment. I've already done powdered lime. I am about to prune back the magnolias.

    As far as the grass goes, is it too late to do the "STEP 1", crabgrass treatment?

    I'd rather not do the fertilizer 4 times a year. One can only cut so much grass. I'd rather get just the crabgrass preventer, and maybe fertilize once.

    In the past, I've done the spot spraying with broadleaf weed killer, rather than apply stuff everywhere unnecessarily. I have a well for water, so want to be careful what I'm putting in the soil. Does this stuff break down after a while, or is it bad?

    Apple trees have flowered, so I think it is too late for oil spray. When do we apply the fruit tree spray?

    Is it OK to spread grass seed in conjunction with any of the other stuff (broadleaf weed killer, lime, fertilizer, etc.)?

    Thanks.
     
  19. garandman

    garandman Instructor NES Member

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    This is our newly-laomed and seeded lawn after two weeks and two days. The thicker clumps on the left are regrowth but all the shorter grass is new growth. My wife is trippin' over the slower growth of the open areas, which are more shaded. I maintain it's been unusually cold for first 10 of those days and things are proceeding OK. We are starting to get lots of worm holes which I presume is a good thing.

    What thinkest thou? Click for larger.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Pilgrims Pride

    Pilgrims Pride

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    Coyote,

    You are right with the wet mowing.
    As long as the mower doesnt clog, the grass doesnt bend and not get cut, and you dont get clumps, you should be fine.
    I said earlier I dont mow. I do know all about it.
    I just dont because of the reasons many have discussed here.
    Weather is a huge factor. I did mow when I 1st started out. If it rained all week, I'd be cutting very tall grass on the weekends. (Sunday too sometimes) Forget that!
    Then there is the competition. Every youngster with a pick up and an old craftsman is suddenly a landscaper. No liability insurance, no taxes, no knowledge. But he is cheap.
    I'm all set with that too. No I try to align myself with reputable guys and pass work back and forth.

    Ok back to your questions.

    I feel milky spore is a waste. This stuff needs to build up a population in the sol.
    New England weather is just to unreliable for that. To hot and dry sometimes, then wet the rest.
    I've been makin the grass grow since 1988 and have not ever seen good results. Of course if you know something I dont, I'm all ears.

    Its best not to seed over or around any of the steps that contain weed controls.
    It should say that on the bag somewhere.

    You can still get away with the step 1.
    The window is closing quick on that though. Only use the one that has dimension (dithiopyr is the chemical name) Thats all that will give you decent results at this time.

    Gotta run. I'll answer more later.
    Garandman, your'e next
     
  21. Pilgrims Pride

    Pilgrims Pride

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  22. warpig

    warpig

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    I always think the seed was bad or something right about the time all the new grass comes up. Waiting, especially if you have been faithfully watering, is the hardest part! As long as the soil is good, and you keep the seed moist, it comes up. Depending on the seed you bought, you should be able to plant in a shady spot...but you do need SOME sun.

    And yes, the worm holes are a good thing!
     
  23. Pilgrims Pride

    Pilgrims Pride

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    While it has been pretty unseasonable, are you sure you are getting enough water?
    Check this out:

    Pilgrim’s Pride Lawn Care
    P.O. Box 1925
    Manomet, MA. 02345
    508-245-1777
    E-mail: [email protected]

    PROPER CARE FOR NEWLY SEEDED/SOD LAWNS

    WATERING

    The most important requirement and your greatest responsibility at this time is proper watering!
    The new seedbed or sod should be kept damp, but not soaking wet.
    If weather is mild, that can mean just watering after the morning dew has evaporated and then again in early afternoon if needed.
    If weather is warmer, more frequent watering will be required and watering lightly 3 or even 4 times a day may be needed.
    Again, seed or sod must be kept just damp, not soaking wet and water should never be allowed to puddle as this can kill new lawns as readily as drying them out.
    After seed is 80-90% established or sod has rooted sufficiently, (You can no longer pull it up easily) watering frequency should be changed.
    At this time, water less frequently (once a day) or maybe even every other or every few days if weather is mild. But water for longer periods as weather dictates.

    GERMINATION

    Under ideal conditions (sunny days with temps in the 70-75 degree range), seed will begin to germinate in 7-14 days.
    Rye grasses will germinate first and you will be able to see very small seedlings that should grow quickly after initial germination.
    Bluegrass and other grass types will germinate more slowly depending on weather and variety of seed.
    Once they germinate, they will grow quickly as long as proper watering practices are observed.
    Sod should begin to root nicely in that time as well as long as proper watering has taken place.

    FERTILIZING

    It is suggested that a professional lawn service be considered at this time.
    These companies understand the nurturing required to insure success with new and established lawns.
    They know the timing of treatments and are trained in the proper handling of fertilizers and other control products.
    However, if you choose to treat your own property, it is suggested that a quality “starter” fertilizer be applied as soon as new seeded areas will support your weight or sod has lightly rooted.
    This fertilizer should have an analysis (the numbers on the bag) that is high in phosphorous and potash as these two nutrients are vital in new lawns.
    Phosphorous, (the 2nd number) is important for establishing strong root systems while potash (the 3rd number) is needed to encourage more healthy and disease resistant plants.
    A fertilizer with an analysis of 16-22-12, 18-24-12, or 19-19-19 (even 10-10-10) will work nicely and can usually be found in most garden centers.
    After this initial feeding a regular program should be followed.
    HOWEVER, NO WEED CONTROLS SHOULD EVER BE APPLIED TO NEW LAWNS UNTIL THEY HAVE BEEN MOWED AT LEAST 3 TIMES!
    While there are control products that are labeled for use with new seed, they can be confusing and often the wrong product may be used. Applying the wrong control product to control weeds before the lawn has been cut 3 times or is well rooted (in the case of sod), can kill or severely stunt your new lawn.

    MOWING

    When your new lawn reaches a height of at least 3 inches, it is time to begin mowing.
    It is recommended that New England lawns be cut at a height of 2 ½-3 inches all season long.
    It is my personal recommendation that lawns be cut as tall as possible.
    Mowing tall will keep lawns cooler in the heat by offering more shade to soil. Mowing tall also makes it more difficult for many turf diseases to establish and spread in your lawn.
    Always mow with a sharp blade and be sure to never remove more than 1/3 of the plant.
    Mowing should be done when it is dry to prevent clumping.
    Finally, “mulching” type mowers are really not a bad idea as leaving grass clippings does not contribute to thatch and leaving clippings behind will actually recycle some of the nutrients that would otherwise be removed.

    FINAL THOUGHTS

    Please be patient with your new lawn. It can take up to 2 full growing seasons to completely establish a new lawn.
    Realize that there are going to be weeds in a new lawn. This is to be expected, as there are often weed seeds in the soil that will germinate with grass seeds.
    Again, be patient and water faithfully! One of the best ways to discourage weeds is by keeping your lawn healthy and actively growing.
    Remember that weed controls should not be applied for any reason until the lawn has been cut 3 times.
    Finally, do not be discouraged to find that some settling occurs in your new lawn.
    You may notice after a short period that there are small rocks and pebbles in the loam that weren’t noticeable before.
    They are not an indication of poor quality soil at all. Some rocks are beneficial to soil as they improve drainage and will settle as your new lawn matures.
     
  24. RichM

    RichM Retired Army Veteran

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    One word:

    CLOVER

    How do I get rid of it?!?

    I just put down the Turf-Builder with broadleaf control... it killed the dandelions very quickly, but it didn't do anything to the clover.

    Also, when do I put down junebug killer? Is there anything available in the retail market that has any long-term effect on mosquitoes? I have both types... the evening biters and the Asian tiger type with the stripes on the legs that bite during the day.
     
  25. HTRN

    HTRN Instructor Dealer NES Member

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    Why would you want to?
    Clover fixes nitrogen to the soil, thus fertilizing it all year.

    more here: Clover lawn grass

    I like a modest amount of clover throughout the lawn. The only problem I have has is the attraction of bees and my sting-allergic daughter.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2013
  26. Squished

    Squished NES Member

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    I've never heard of a modest amount of clover. Only time I've ever seen it is when it completely consumes a lawn.
     
  27. CdP

    CdP NES Member

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    Have you been looking at my backyard again?? :)

    Seriously - I'm thinking of rezoning to agricultural and harvesting the stuff.

    I got this special clover killer stuff from local nursery. Weed be gone worked ok, but not great. If I get a chance tonight, will respond with exact name. Haven't used it yet, so only hoping it works.
     
  28. Pilgrims Pride

    Pilgrims Pride

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    Clover can be controlled with this trimec that I mentioned earlier.
    Trimec 992 Broadleaf Herbicide
    Dont let the price scare you. You only need to use an ounce and a half per gallon of mix.
    That will last you a very long time!

    Yes clover is a nitrogen fixer. Good stuff?
    Do you want all those bees on your grass when your kids are playing there?
    But, I did actually seed a lawn with clover for a woman who is a dog trainer.
    She wanted clover because it wouldnt die. Last I knew she was happy.

    Mosquitoes are a PITA!
    First survey your property and make sure theres no breeding places. No containers that may hold water. Right down to the bird bath.
    Clean your gutters and again just make sure there is no place that will allow for standing water.

    Then as for spraying, there are many products on the market.
    Anything with bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, deltamethrin, or permethrin is a good choice.
    All of these products (and others) are labeled for mosquito control. They are broad spectrum products so you will get benefit on a host of other pests as well.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2013
  29. jmhorrible

    jmhorrible

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    Do you have any suggestions for a granular/spreadable weed control? I'm on 2 acres that has been neglected for several years and weeds are everywhere. I don't know if I have the patience to spray the whole yard with my 2 gallon hand sprayer.
     
  30. Pilgrims Pride

    Pilgrims Pride

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    Once again, I hate to send anyone to them but,
    John Deere Landscapes sells granular fert/weed control combination products.
    Search here to find the nearest one to you.

    www.johndeerelandscapes.com/home/locations.aspx

    I know I say I dont like to send folks there. But the products are good. Prices not so much.
     

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