SP101 .22 Trigger

[boiler_eng]

Wondered if anyone had any advice on what might be good to do to improve the trigger pull on my sp101 .22 revolver. I have had it a while and have suffered through the trigger because I didn't want to do anything about it and it was fine. However, it can sure wear my hand out after a while and worse whenever I take someone new out and try to start them at .22 they say they can't even shoot the gun.

So now I am thinking I might either try to smooth things out and change the springs, or more likely pay a professional to do it. (It was my first gun and it deserves some experienced hands improving its trigger)

So anyone who has any suggestions of a good smith around the North Shore area, or who has done anything on the trigger of a SP101 advice would be appreciated.

 

[EJFudd]

I must have gotten lucky. I happened to get a good one. But I have heard of others who have sent their SP101 .22 back to Ruger for free trigger enhancement work if it didn't meet spec. Supposedly, they came back from Ruger with excellent "within spec" triggers. If I had an SP101 .22 with a bad trigger, that's where I would start.

 

[whacko]

Even single action a new shooter can't use it? Then there is something very wrong

 

[boiler_eng]

Well single action requires pulling back the hammer which requires some hand strength. The pull after isn't bad at all.

 

[whacko]

Well single action requires pulling back the hammer which requires some hand strength. The pull after isn't bad at all.

even cocking the hammernkis that bad? Definitely call ruger

 

[allen-1]

My GP100 in .357 out of the box had/has an amazing action. So I was very disappointed when the .22 SP101 that looks like its baby brother had a gritty 14 lb double action pull. A friend of mine worked the action for me, and then I swapped the springs multiple times trying to balance a very tough trigger pull against a too light hammer strike. After firing perhaps 1000 rounds through it of 5 or 6 different types of ammo and swapping out the springs four or five times it's "acceptable" now.

Single action is no problem, (never has been), double action's still less than desirable.

Send it back to Ruger and have them work on it.

 

[atmay]

If you think there's something wrong with the gun, send it back to Ruger for repair.

Otherwise, just shoot and/or dry-fire the crap out of the thing. It'll smooth out.

 

[highlander]

Get a Wolff spring kit and replace the factory springs. If that doesn't help send it to Greg Derr and have do his magic.

 

[whacko]

If you think there's something wrong with the gun, send it back to Ruger for repair.

Otherwise, just shoot and/or dry-fire the crap out of the thing. It'll smooth out.

Not the same gun but my single 10 was gritty and had a noticable hitch but snap caps and about 1000 cycles of dry fire smoothed it right out. But if its hard to cock for SA use there is something fishy

 

[Another_David]

http://www.sp101trigger.com/index.html

I did this with my Ruger SP 101 in 38/357. Not sure if the .22 is the same.

it's not really a trigger job because if done correctly you don't modify the parts that hold/release the hammer, etc. What you can do yourself if you're handy is smooth down all the components that don't slide as they should and rub against the frame or other parts. It's sad that Ruger doesn't just do this themselves!

I found that on mine the trigger plunger was rubbing something awful so just switching springs wouldn't have helped at all. I kept the original springs but smoothed out the hole where the spring and plunger sit--it was really rough inside.

you can get these 7-way nail buffers cheap at CVS and they're great for smoothing out parts simply: http://www.drugstore.com/trim-nail-care-7--way-buffer/qxp347633

do at your own risk--I can't stress enough to NOT adjust the points of contact that hold/release the hammer. Function test when done.

people have also reported that repeated dry firing with snap caps helps. but if it's really bad you're probably going to need to smooth things out.

 

[boiler_eng]

http://www.sp101trigger.com/index.html

I did this with my Ruger SP 101 in 38/357. Not sure if the .22 is the same.

it's not really a trigger job because if done correctly you don't modify the parts that hold/release the hammer, etc. What you can do yourself if you're handy is smooth down all the components that don't slide as they should and rub against the frame or other parts. It's sad that Ruger doesn't just do this themselves!

I found that on mine the trigger plunger was rubbing something awful so just switching springs wouldn't have helped at all. I kept the original springs but smoothed out the hole where the spring and plunger sit--it was really rough inside.

you can get these 7-way nail buffers cheap at CVS and they're great for smoothing out parts simply: http://www.drugstore.com/trim-nail-care-7--way-buffer/qxp347633

do at your own risk--I can't stress enough to NOT adjust the points of contact that hold/release the hammer. Function test when done.

people have also reported that repeated dry firing with snap caps helps. but if it's really bad you're probably going to need to smooth things out.

Yeah the gf's train got delayed today so I had a bit of time to entertain myself tonight and took it half apart and went through taking out the main spring, etc and looking at the parts. I will try to smooth some stuff out but my thought is that the main trigger spring which from what I read (and feel) is 16 lb on the .22 is part of the culprit. I ordered a wolff spring kit for the .22 and will see what a little polishing/LIGHT sanding plus minorly lighter springs yield. I think this will improve things.